The sudden silence of a two-chamber refrigerator Atlant often becomes an unpleasant surprise, especially when the ice in the chamber has already begun to melt. In most cases, if the engine hums but does not start, or clicks and immediately stops, the problem lies in the engine starting system. It is start relay responsible for supplying the initial impulse and switching the compressor windings, and its failure is one of the most common causes of breakdown.
Fortunately, the design of refrigerators of this brand allows you to replace the part yourself without resorting to an expensive call to a technician. All you need is a minimum set of tools and a basic understanding of how the compressor assembly works. In this article we will analyze in detail the process of diagnostics, dismantling the old element and installing a new one, based on the technical features of the units Atlant.
Before taking active steps, you need to make sure that the work is safe. Any manipulations with electrical components require completely disconnecting the device from the network. This stage should not be ignored, since even short-term contact with live parts under voltage can lead to serious consequences.
Fault diagnosis and signs of breakdown
The first step in any repair is to accurately identify the problem. If your Atlant refrigerator stops cooling, but still makes characteristic clicks, this is a sure sign that the trigger mechanism is not doing its job. You can often hear the motor trying to start, humming for a few seconds, and then there is a sharp shutdown click, after which there is silence.
Visual inspection can also provide a lot of information. If you remove the back cover and see that the relay body has turned black or melted, there should be no doubt. Sometimes a ringing sound of a dropped part is heard inside the housing, which indicates the destruction of contacts or mechanical damage to the internal coil.
There are several main symptoms indicating the need for replacement:
- 🔊 The compressor makes a loud hum, but does not start, followed by a clicking sound.
- ❄️ The refrigerator compartment does not gain temperature, although the motor works constantly or does not turn on at all.
- 🔥 On the back wall near the motor, traces of burning, soot or melted plastic are visible.
- ⚡ The automatic fuse in the electrical network trips when you try to turn on the refrigerator.
⚠️ Attention: If, after the relay clicks, the compressor continues to hum for more than 10-15 seconds without starting, immediately disconnect the device from the network. Long-term operation in this mode leads to overheating of the windings and expensive repairs or replacement of the motor itself.
It is important to understand that the relay is a consumable item, designed for a certain number of switching cycles. Over time, the contacts burn out, and the bimetallic plate loses its properties, ceasing to respond correctly to current and temperature.
Tool preparation and safety measures
To successfully carry out the work, you do not need a complex professional tool. A standard DIY kit, which many people have in their garage, is enough. The main thing is accuracy and adherence to the sequence of actions so as not to damage fragile tubes or wiring.
You will need the following tools:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: Phillips and flathead (for removing the casing and clamps).
- 🔪 Stationery knife or scalpel (for cleaning contacts, if necessary).
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves (recommended for additional protection).
- 📷 Smartphone (to take a photo of the connection diagram before disassembling).
Before starting work, be sure to unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and move it away from the wall, providing free access to the back. Let the unit stand turned off for at least 15-20 minutes so that the capacitors are discharged and the refrigerant in the system is redistributed.
☑️ Check before starting work
Pay special attention to the condition of the compressor. If it is hot to the touch, wait until it cools completely. Working with hot metal can lead to burns, and a sharp temperature change upon contact with the tool is undesirable.
Removing the casing and accessing the compressor
In two-chamber models Atlant the compressor is usually located in the lower niche at the back. To access it, you need to remove the protective casing that covers the motor and capacitor. This element is made of thin metal and is usually secured with bolts or latches.
Use a screwdriver of the appropriate size to unscrew the fasteners. Be careful, the edges of the metal casing may be sharp, so work carefully. After removing the bolts, carefully remove the cover, being careful not to touch or bend the condenser tubes, which often pass in close proximity.
Under the casing you will see a black “barrel” - this is the compressor itself. A plastic box is attached to its side or top (depending on the model). This is what we are looking for starting relay. Wires from the network and from the engine itself are suitable for it.
Nuances of the location of the relay in different models
In some old Atlant models, the relay may be mounted not on the compressor itself, but on the frame nearby, connecting to the engine with a short wiring harness. In modern series, it is always put directly on the terminals of the compressor windings.
Before removing the relay, it is strongly recommended to take a photo of the wire connections. Insulation colors may vary from batch to batch and photographing will help avoid assembly errors. If the phone camera is not accessible, draw a diagram or mark the wires with a marker.
Removing the old starting relay
The process of removing the relay itself does not require the use of brute physical force. It is held in place by a tight fit on the pins of the compressor and is secured with a plastic or metal clamp. Some models Atlant use a spring bracket that needs to be bent.
Procedure for dismantling:
- Carefully disconnect the block with wires going from the relay to the network. Often there is a lock that needs to be pressed.
- If the relay is secured with a bracket, pry it with a flat-head screwdriver and remove it.
- Grip the relay body with your hand and lightly rock it from side to side, remove it from the three pins of the compressor.
Do not pull the relay by the wires! This could result in broken internal wiring or damaged compressor terminals, turning a simple repair into a complex technical problem.
Once removed, inspect the inside of the relay. If you can see black soot, melted contacts, or smell a burning smell, the part definitely needs to be replaced. Also check the condition of the pins on the compressor itself - they should be smooth and clean.
Selection of an analogue and compatibility table
Refrigerators Atlant are equipped with various types of relays, most often these are devices of the RTP, R-3 series or their modern analogues. It is important to select a part with similar electrical characteristics, in particular, operating current and type of compressor.
The marking is applied to the body of the product. The main parameters that you need to pay attention to are the rated current and the type of refrigerant (R134a or R600a), although for the relay itself the type of freon plays a secondary role, the motor power is more important.
Below is a table of correspondence of popular relays for compressors installed in Atlant refrigerators:
| Marking relay | Compressor type | Rated current (A) | Compatibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| RTP-1 | Piston | 1.0 - 1.3 | Old Atlant models |
| RTP-2 | Porshnevoy | 1.4 - 1.8 | Average power |
| RTP-3 | Porshnevoy | 2.0 - 2.5 | Powerful two-chamber |
| PTC (China/Europe) | Universal | Depends on the model | Modern analogs |
If you cannot find the original relay Atlant, you can use universal starting devices with a posistor. They are suitable for most types of motors, but require correct connection according to the color marking of the wires.
Installing a new relay and checking operation
Installing a new part is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Insert the relay onto the compressor pins as far as it will go. It should fit tightly, without any play. If a fixing bracket is used, return it to its place and make sure that it securely holds the case.
Connect the block with wires. Make sure the connector snaps into place. Now you can carry out a preliminary check without installing the protective casing in place yet.
Plug in the refrigerator. You should hear the relay click (closing the starting circuit), then the compressor hum and start confidently. After a few seconds, the hum should become smooth and quiet.
⚠️ Attention: If after turning on the click is heard again and the motor stops, turn off the device immediately. This means that either the relay does not meet the parameters, or the problem lies deeper (for example, an interturn short circuit in the motor windings).
Let the refrigerator operate for 10-15 minutes in the open state. Touch the relay body - it may become slightly warm, but should not be hot. If the temperature is normal and the motor is operating stably, you can begin final assembly.
Assembly and final adjustment
After making sure that the system is working properly, install the protective cover in place. Secure it with bolts, but do not overtighten them so as not to strip the threads in the thin metal of the frame. Return the refrigerator to its normal place, maintaining clearances for ventilation.
After turning on the refrigerator filled with food, the temperature inside the chambers will begin to decrease. To fully reach the mode two-chamber Atlanta it may take from 2 to 6 hours, depending on the load and ambient temperature.
On the first day of operation, it is recommended to periodically check the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. If after 24 hours the food is not frozen or the refrigerator compartment is warm, perhaps the problem was not only in the relay, or freon leaked due to careless operation.
Regularly clean the back of the refrigerator from dust so that the compressor does not overheat. Overheating is the main enemy of starting equipment, and good ventilation will help avoid repeated breakdowns in the future.
Is it possible to solder a burnt-out relay or repair it?
Theoretically, you can try to clean the contacts or replace the internal coil, but practice shows that such repairs are temporary. The start relay is a single-use component with high precision settings. An attempt to “revive” it often leads to re-combustion after a few days or even hours, and there is a risk of damaging the compressor windings due to current surges. The cost of a new part is low, so replacing it with a new one is the only rational solution.
Why does the new relay click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
If you hear clicks, but the compressor is silent, there may be several reasons. Firstly, the relay itself could burn out (defect or model mismatch). Secondly, the thermostat or electronic control module could have failed and simply do not issue a start command. Thirdly, the problem may be in the compressor itself (jamming or broken winding). For accurate diagnostics, you need a multimeter to “test” the circuit.
How to distinguish an Atlant relay from relays of other brands?
Refrigerator relays Atlant often have a specific shape of the plastic case and the arrangement of contacts, typical for compressors produced in Belarus or under license from Danfoss/Secop. The main difference is in the markings (RTP series) and the geometric dimensions of the seat. Universal relays may be suitable electrically, but require modification of the fastenings or the use of adapter blocks.