Two-chamber refrigerators of the Belarusian brand Atlant are deservedly popular due to their reliability and maintainability. However, even the most reliable equipment fails over time, and one of the most common causes of unit failure is the breakdown of the start-up relay. This small device is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads, so its malfunction instantly stops the cooling process.
If you notice that the motor is humming, but does not start, or turns on only for a couple of seconds and immediately clicks, turning off, the problem most likely lies in this unit. In this article, we will look in detail at how to correctly diagnose a breakdown, select an analogue and safely remove the relay from the compressor in order to replace it yourself.
Remember that any work with electrical devices requires compliance with safety precautions. De-energizing devices are the first and mandatory action that must be performed before disassembling. Ignoring this rule may result in electric shock or damage to the refrigerator's electronics.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting work, make sure that the power cord is completely unplugged from the outlet. Residual voltage in capacitors can be dangerous, so do not touch live parts with bare hands without first checking.
Diagnosing a faulty starting relay
Before proceeding with dismantling, you need to make sure that the problem is in the relay, and not in the compressor or thermostat itself. A characteristic sign of a malfunction is the cyclic turning on and off of the motor with a characteristic metallic click. This sound is made precisely by starting relaytrying to start the engine, but not coping with the task due to internal damage.
Sometimes the refrigerator can hum for several seconds, after which the thermal protection is triggered, and there is silence. If you touch the compressor housing at this point, it may be slightly warm, but not hot. This indicates that the motor windings do not have time to burn out, since the cycle is too short, but starting does not occur.
- 🔊 The motor hums for 3-5 seconds, then a click is heard and silence sets in.
- 🌡️ The compressor does not heat up excessively, but it does not start either.
- 💡 The indicators on the panel (if any) may blink or show an error.
- 🔌 When reconnected to the network, the situation repeats at regular intervals.
In some cases, the relay may “stick” in the closed state, which will lead to a constant hum of the compressor and its strong heating. If you do not disconnect such a refrigerator from the network in time, the motor winding may burn out. Therefore, timely diagnostics is critical to saving an expensive unit.
Marking and selection of a compatible relay
Refrigerators Atlant are equipped with various types of compressors, most often these are models produced by the Atlant plant itself, and also Danfoss (Secop) or Embraco. For each type of engine, a specific starting protection relay is used, which is not always interchangeable. On the body of the old part there is always a marking by which you can determine its type.
The most common are relays of the RT series (for example, RTK, RTP, RTK-1.3) for Atlant compressors and relays of the 100CL, 101CL, 103CL series for Danfoss engines. The numbers in the marking indicate the permissible current strength and type of fastening. An incorrectly selected part may not start the motor or, conversely, not disconnect the starting winding, which will lead to combustion of the compressor.
| Relay type | Compatibility | Features |
|---|---|---|
| RTK-1.3 | Atlant compressors | Vertical mounting, one contact |
| 100CL/101CL | Danfoss compressors | Universal, requires correct orientation |
| RTP | Old models Atlant | Thermal protection in a separate housing |
| P-3 | Powerful compressors | Reinforced contact design |
When purchasing a new part, pay attention to the number of contacts and their location. It is also important to consider the orientation of installation: some relays only work in a vertical position, others allow installation at an angle. Marking on the body is your main guide when choosing a replacement.
Preparation of the workplace and tools
To successfully remove the relay, you do not need a complex professional tool, but the preparation must be thorough. Clear space around the refrigerator to allow easy access to the back wall. You will need to move the unit from the wall to a distance of at least a meter.
The main tool you will need is a flathead and Phillips screwdriver. In some cases, pliers may be required to remove clamps or clamps. Prepare a water container in advance if defrosting is required, although when replacing a relay, complete defrosting is usually not necessary unless you plan to clean the condenser.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves to protect your hands.
- 🔦 Flashlight for illuminating a darkened area near the compressor.
- 📸 Smartphone with a camera for photographing the wiring diagram.
- 🧹 Brush for cleaning dust from the radiator and motor.
It is important to ensure good lighting of the work area. The compressor niche is often dusty, and small parts of the fastenings may be difficult to see. Wipe the dust with a dry cloth so that it does not get inside the electrical contacts during disassembly.
The procedure for accessing the compressor compartment
Access to the compressor in two-chamber refrigerators Atlant is usually through the back panel. Depending on the model, this may be a metal casing secured with screws or a plastic cover with snaps. In some older models, access may be from below, but in modern two-chamber cameras the rear location predominates.
First, inspect the perimeter of the rear wall. If you see screws along the edges of the metal sheet, carefully remove them with a Phillips screwdriver. Be careful not to drop the fastener inside the niche so that it gets stuck between the tubes or falls to the floor. If there are no screws, look for plastic latches around the perimeter.
Carefully pry up the edge of the cover with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers, being careful not to use too much force to avoid breaking the plastic. After removing the cover, you will have a view of the compressor, condenser grille and tube system. It is in this space that the required relay is located.
⚠️ Attention: The metal edges of the removed cover may be sharp. Be careful when handling so as not to injure your hands. Also avoid sudden movements near copper tubes, as they are easy to damage or break the tightness of the system.
☑️ Preparation for removing the relay
Technology for removing the relay from the compressor
The start-up protection relay is placed directly on the contact group of the compressor, which is located on the side or bottom of the engine housing. It can be fixed with a metal bracket-bar, a plastic holder, or simply sit tightly on the contacts due to friction and weight. In some models Atlant the relay is additionally attached to the frame of the refrigerator.
If the relay is held on a metal strip, it must be pressed out or unscrewed. The bar usually presses the relay housing against the compressor. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pry back the bar tabs, or remove the screw if present. After releasing the locking element, grasp the relay body firmly, but without jerking.
The movement when removing should be directed strictly downward or slightly to the side, depending on the orientation of the contacts. Contact group The compressor consists of three pins that fit into the relay sockets. Rock the relay from side to side and gently pull it off. Do not pull sharply so as not to damage the ceramic base of the contacts on the compressor itself.
Removal algorithm:1. Inspect the type of fastening (bar, latch, loose fit).
2. Remove the fixing bracket or press out the latches.
3. Take the relay by the body (not by the wires!).
4. Using gentle rocking, pull down from the compressor pins.
5. Disconnect the wire terminals if they have not been removed along with the relay.
Often wires secured with terminals approach the relay. They can be removed along with the relay if the terminals are inserted into the housing, or they can remain hanging on the wires. If the terminals are stuck in the relay sockets, they must be carefully removed with pliers, holding the wire at the base so as not to break the wire.
What to do if the relay cannot be removed?
If the relay is stuck or heavily rusted, do not use force. Try gently spraying a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) where the pins will enter, being careful not to get anything inside the pins. Wait 5-10 minutes, then try again. As a last resort, if the relay is intended for ejection, you can carefully cut the plastic case to free the contacts, but do this extremely carefully so as not to damage the compressor.
Inspect the removed part and check the contacts
Once the relay is in your hands, conduct a visual inspection of it. Shake the device next to your ear: if a ringing or knocking sound is heard inside, it means that the mechanical part (contacts or core) is damaged, and the relay definitely requires replacement. A working relay should not make sounds when shaken.
Inspect the contact groups for traces of carbon deposits, plastic melting or oxidation. Black deposits on the contacts indicate a spark was skipping and a poor connection, which was causing starting problems. Also check the condition of the bimetallic thermal protection plate - it should not be deformed.
- 👀 Visual inspection of the case for cracks and chips.
- 👂 Listening for extraneous sounds inside.
- 🔌 Checking the cleanliness and integrity of the contacts sockets.
- 🧲 Checking the mobility of the core (if the design allows you to look inside).
If you plan to install the removed relay back (to test a hypothesis or a temporary solution), clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or a file. However, practice shows that restoring the starting relay is a temporary measure. Resource The restored device is extremely small, and the breakdown can happen again at any time.
Installing a new relay and assembling the system
Installing a new relay is done in the reverse order of removal. First, make sure that the model you choose exactly matches yours in pin pattern and orientation. Slide the wire terminals onto the corresponding pins on the new relay if they were not integrated into the housing. Follow the color marking or diagram that you photographed earlier.
Carefully place the relay on the contact group of the compressor. Make sure the pins fit into the sockets all the way and tightly. Secure the device with a metal strip or latch. Make sure that the relay sits evenly and is not skewed, as distortion can disrupt the operation of the mechanical contacts inside.
After installation, you can proceed to assembly. Replace the protective cover of the compressor compartment and secure it with screws or latches. Make sure that the wires are not pinned by the cover and do not touch hot parts of the compressor or moving elements (if there is a fan). Plug in the refrigerator and listen to the startup.
Normal startup is characterized by a smooth hum of the running motor without clicks or buzzing. After 10-15 minutes of operation, check whether the evaporator inside the chamber has started to get colder (be careful not to touch the exposed metal parts with bare skin if ice has already formed there). If the cold has set in, the repair has been completed successfully.
Is it possible to use a relay from another manufacturer?
You can use a relay from another manufacturer, but only if the electrical characteristics (current, voltage) and geometric dimensions completely match. Universal relays often require selection of the installation position (marking UP, DOWN, universal). The wrong choice can lead to startup failure or burnout of the windings.
How long does a starting relay last?
The average service life of a starting relay is 5-10 years, but it greatly depends on the frequency of switching on of the refrigerator, the stability of the voltage in the network and the temperature conditions in the room. Frequent voltage surges significantly reduce the service life of the part.
Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?
If a new relay burns out immediately, this may indicate a malfunction of the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit of the windings), problems with the thermostat (does not turn off the compressor) or critical voltage surges in the electrical network. In this case, an in-depth diagnosis of the electrical circuit of the refrigerator is required.