If your Atlant refrigerator stops freezing, and the motor hums only for a couple of seconds and clicks, the problem most likely lies in the start-up relay. This small but critical element is responsible for starting the engine and protecting it from overloads. Failure of this part is one of the most common causes of breakdowns faced by owners of household appliances.
Fortunately, relay replacement you can do it yourself, without calling a technician to your home. This does not require complex professional equipment, just a basic set of tools and an understanding of the sequence of actions. In this article we will analyze in detail the process of diagnostics, dismantling the old element and installing a new one so that your unit will work properly again.
It should be understood that ignoring the problem can lead to more serious consequences, even burning out the windings compressor. Therefore, when the first signs of unstable operation appear - characteristic clicks, lack of cold or overheating of the rear wall - you must immediately begin checking the electrical circuit. The correct approach to repair will save you significant money.
Fault diagnosis and signs of breakdown
Before disassembling the equipment, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in start relay. Often, users confuse the symptoms with a burnt out motor or problems with the thermostat. The main sign of a malfunction is a characteristic sound: the refrigerator turns on, a loud click is heard, the motor tries to start, hums for 2-3 seconds, then clicks again and turns off. The cycle can be repeated endlessly.
Another indicator is the condition of the compressor. If after several attempts to start it remains cold or slightly warm, but does not heat up to the point of “boiling water”, this is a good sign - it means that the motor itself is most likely intact. However, if you smell burning wiring or see soot in the area of the rear wall, you need to act extremely carefully. Diagnostics should be carried out only with the device completely disconnected from the network.
⚠️ Attention: If the compressor has heated up to a very high temperature, let it run completely cool down before starting work. Trying to remove a hot relay or touching metal parts may result in burns.
It is also worth checking the integrity of the wires going to the contact group. Sometimes the reason is trivial - oxidation of the contacts or a wire break at the bend. A visual inspection often reveals obvious traces of thermal effects on the body of the part itself, such as swelling of plastic or black carbon deposits.
Necessary tools and safety measures
To successfully carry out repairs, you will need a minimum set of tools that can be found in every home. The main requirement is the safety of the work, since you will be dealing with electrical components, even though the device will be disconnected from the network. Always use caution when working with electrical circuits.
You will need the following tools:
- 🔧 Screwdriver (Phillips and flathead) for removing the casing and clamps.
- 🔪 Knife or side cutters for stripping wires (if required).
- 🔦 Flashlight for better illumination of the working area in the depths of the niche.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves for additional hand protection.
Do not kink the copper tubes leading to the compressor, and do not apply excessive force to metal elements. Any damage to the circuit will lead to a freon leak and will require expensive repairs at a service center.
Sequence of dismantling the protective casing
The first stage of work is to gain access to the motor-compressor, which is located in the lower rear part of the unit. To do this, the refrigerator must be moved away from the wall, providing free access from the rear. Be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply by unplugging the plug from the socket.
On many models Atlant refrigerators the compressor is covered with a metal or plastic casing. It can be secured with latches or screws. Carefully unscrew the fasteners and remove the cover. If the casing is held on by latches, use a flat-head screwdriver to press them out, working without jerking so as not to break the plastic.
After removing the cover, you will see the compressor itself - a black metal “tank” with suitable tubes and an electrical connector. The relay is usually placed directly on the contact group protruding from the compressor housing. In some models, it is additionally secured with a metal bracket or strip, which must be carefully removed.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
How to properly remove the old relay
The process of removing the start relay is technically simple, but requires care. The part is a plastic case, inside of which there are contacts and a trigger mechanism. It sits tightly on the three pins of the compressor contact strip. Your task is to remove it without damaging the contacts or crumbling the old plastic, which could have become brittle over time.
Grab the relay with both hands (or with one hand, holding the compressor, if necessary) and start pulling it towards you with a rocking motion from side to side. Do not yank sharply up or down to avoid breaking the ceramic insulators or the pins themselves. If the part fits very tightly, you can slightly help yourself with a flat screwdriver by prying up the edges, but be careful not to shorten the contacts.
⚠️ Attention: On some Atlant models, the relay may be connected to a capacitor. Be careful when removing so as not to break the wires going to the capacitor, which may be located nearby or built into the structure.
After the relay has been removed, inspect the seat on the compressor. There should be no traces of moisture, oil or burning. If you find oily stains, this may indicate a compressor housing depressurization, which is a more serious problem. In this case, simply replacing the relay may not help.
What's inside the relay?
Inside the plastic case there is a coil with a core (electromagnet), a moving contact and a bimetallic plate. When voltage is applied, the coil creates a magnetic field that draws in the core and closes the contacts, starting the motor. After the engine accelerates, the current drops and the bimetallic plate opens the circuit.
Compatibility table and selection of a new part
When purchasing a new spare part, it is extremely important to choose exactly the model that fits your compressor. Relays differ in power, type of mounting and contact arrangement. Installing an unsuitable element can lead to immediate failure of the new component or damage to the motor windings.
There is always a marking on the body of the old relay. This may be series RT, RKT or other designations. Below is a table to help you navigate the main types of relays used in Atlant refrigerators.
| Relay marking | Compressor type | Features | Compatibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| RTK-X (1,2,3..) | Single-phase | Old model, frame mounting | Models before 2005 |
| RKT (1,2,3..) | Single-phase | New sample, plastic case | Modern Atlant models |
| LS-40B | Single-phase | Universal, often goes to complete | Replacement for many analogues |
| with (Danfoss) | Single-phase | High reliability, imported analogue | Requires checking the circuit |
Be sure to copy all the numbers and letters from the old device before going to the store. If there is no exact analogue, the consultant will be able to select a universal replacement, but checking the power table (in watts or amperes) is mandatory. Electrical parameters must match or be as close as possible to the original.
Installing a new relay and checking operation
The process of installing a new part is a mirror image of dismantling. Take the new start relay and carefully place it on the contact pins of the compressor. It should fit tightly and all the way. Make sure the "UP" marking or arrow on the relay body points straight up, as it did on the old element. Incorrect orientation will disrupt the operation of the mechanism.
If the design provides a fixing bracket or bar, return it to its place and secure it with screws. Check that the wires are securely connected: they should not dangle or touch hot parts of the compressor. If necessary, use electrical tape or clamps to secure the harness.
Now you can replace the protective casing and secure it. After this, turn on the refrigerator. In the first seconds you will hear a characteristic click and the engine starts. If the unit started working smoothly, without humming and repeated shutdowns, it means the replacement was successful. Let the refrigerator run for 15-20 minutes and check whether the chambers have begun to cool.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the situation has not changed (the clicks continue, the cold does not flow), the problem may be deeper - in the compressor itself, the thermostat or the wiring. In this case, further self-diagnosis can be dangerous.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to repair an old relay rather than changing it?
Theoretically, some types of relays (especially old RTK) can be disassembled, the contacts cleaned and replace the burnt tablet. However, the service life of the restored device will be unpredictable. Considering the low cost of a new part, repairing an old relay is not economically feasible and less reliable.
Why does a new relay burn out immediately after installation?
This can happen for several reasons: the relay power is incorrectly selected, there is a short circuit in the compressor windings, or a problem in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator. Also, the cause may be a power surge in the network.
How to determine that it is the compressor that has burned out, and not the relay?
You need to ring the compressor windings with a multimeter. If the resistance between the contacts shows an open (infinity) or a short circuit (close to zero) to the housing, then the motor is faulty. Another sign may be the lack of resistance between the contacts when the relay is removed.
Do you need to wait until the refrigerator sits before turning it on after repair?
If during the replacement process you did not tilt the refrigerator much (more than 45 degrees) and did not shake the compressor, there is no need to wait. However, if the unit was transported or tilted strongly, it is better to let it stand upright for 2-4 hours before starting, so that the oil flows into the crankcase.