A sudden stop of refrigeration equipment or a failure of the compressor to start often indicates a faulty starting mechanism. Equipment owners Indesit may encounter a situation where the engine hums but does not start, or does not make any sounds at all. In most cases, the culprit is the starting relay, which is responsible for supplying voltage to the motor windings at the time of start.
Independent replacement of this part is a very real task for a person who knows how to handle a basic tool. However, the process requires strict adherence to safety precautions and an understanding of the structure of the unit. Electric current poses a serious danger, therefore, before starting any work, you must completely de-energize the unit by unplugging the plug from the socket.
This manual will help you understand the design of the compressor unit and carefully dismantle the failed element. We will look at the mounting features, typical connection diagrams and nuances that beginners often miss when repairing household appliances.
Diagnostics of a faulty start relay
Before you start disassembling, you should make sure that the problem lies in the relay, and not in the compressor or thermostat itself. A characteristic sign of a breakdown is a click when trying to start, followed by silence or a hum that lasts several seconds before the thermal protection is triggered. If the refrigerator Indesit turns on for a couple of minutes and turns off without gaining cold, this also often indicates wear of the contact group.
Visual inspection can provide more information. If traces of melting, soot, or a burning smell are visible on the relay body, the part definitely requires replacement. It is also worth checking the integrity of the wires suitable for the terminals, since vibration during compressor operation sometimes leads to their rubbing or oxidation of the contacts.
For more accurate diagnostics, you can use a multimeter in continuity mode. The resistance of the windings must correspond to the technical parameters specified in the documentation, and the relay contacts should not “ring” when at rest (for normally open contacts). If you are not confident in your skills in working with measuring instruments, it is better to limit yourself to external inspection and replacement based on inoperability.
- 🔍 The compressor hums for 5-10 seconds and clicks, but does not start.
- 🔍 The refrigerator freezes, although the light inside is on.
- 🔍 The relay shows traces of thermal effects or mechanical damage.
- 🔍 When you tap the relay (in rare cases), the compressor may start briefly.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the compressor continues to hum and does not start, the motor itself may be jammed or the system tightness. Further attempts to turn on may lead to permanent failure of the unit.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
To successfully perform repairs, you do not need complex specialized tools. The main requirement is cleanliness and sufficient lighting of the work area. Since access to the compressor is located in the lower rear part of the refrigerator, it is necessary to ensure free access to the rear wall of the unit Indesit.
Move the refrigerator from the wall at least a meter to be able to move freely around it. Cover the floor with cardboard or old cloth, as a small amount of oil or condensation may leak from the system when manipulating the tubes, although this rarely happens when replacing a relay.
You will need a set of screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-head), insulated-handled pliers, and possibly side cutters for cutting the clamps if they are plastic and disposable. It is also recommended to prepare a container for small parts so as not to lose screws or mounting brackets during operation.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Make sure your hands are dry and the tool is in good working order. Using damaged tools with torn splines can lead to slippage and injury or damage to the plastic elements of the compressor housing.
Removing the compressor protective casing
The compressor in refrigerators Indesit is covered with a metal or plastic casing that protects mechanical parts and tubes from dust and accidental damage. This casing is usually secured with bolted connections or latches, which can be hidden under rubber plugs.
First, inspect the perimeter of the casing. If you see rubber plugs, carefully pry them off with a flathead screwdriver. The mounting bolts are hidden under them. In some models, the casing is simply put on from the bottom and secured with spring clips, which need to be released with pliers.
After removing the fasteners, carefully remove the casing. Do this smoothly so as not to touch or bend the copper pipes that go to the compressor. There may be a tray inside the casing for collecting condensate - it also needs to be removed by pouring out the accumulated water.
Now you have access to the “heart” of the refrigerator. Pay attention to the location of the wires and tubes so that during assembly you do not accidentally confuse their position or press the wire against a hot surface.
Disconnecting electrical contacts
The starting relay is attached directly to compressor shaft and covered with a plastic box. This box receives wires from the thermostat and condenser. Before removing the relay from the refrigerator compressor Indesit, you need to disconnect these wires.
Usually the wires are fixed to the relay terminals using connectors. Do not pull on the wires themselves - this may cause them to break at the base. Grasp the plastic housing of the connector and, rocking it from side to side, pull it away from the contact. If the connectors have oxidized and are tight, you can gently help yourself with pliers, but without excessive force.
It is important to remember or take a photo of which wire is connected where. Although the color marking is usually standard (phase, neutral, grounding), the equipment may have undergone previous repairs with violations. Incorrect connection can lead to a short circuit.
After disconnecting all the wires, you will have access to the relay itself. It can be additionally secured with a metal bracket or plastic “ears”. If there is a bracket, it must be removed by prying it with a screwdriver.
- 🔌 Disconnect the wire connectors from the relay contacts.
- 🔌 Remove the fixing bracket or bar, if present.
- 🔌 Make sure that the wires are not strained and do not interfere access.
- 🔌 Check the condition of the wire insulation for cracks.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to remove the relay by pulling the wires that go to it. This is guaranteed to lead to a break in the wires inside the insulation, which will require extension of wires and soldering.
The process of removing the relay from the compressor shaft
The very moment of removing the relay is key. It is mounted on three pins extending from the compressor housing, and sits tightly due to the frictional force and weight of the internal components. The main task is to remove it strictly vertically downwards, without loosening it from side to side, so as not to damage the pins or internal ceramics.
Grip the relay confidently by the body. If it sits very tightly, you can use gentle rocking movements, but the amplitude should be minimal. A sudden upward or sideways movement is unacceptable. In some cases, the relay becomes stuck due to temperature, and then light turning may be required, but this must be done extremely carefully.
On the back of the relay you will see three holes that fit onto the compressor pins. Inside there are contacts that close the windings. Pay attention to the marking: the top contact is usually responsible for the starting winding, and the side ones are for the working winding and the capacitor.
Why can’t the relay be removed with a jerk?
A sharp tug can break the ceramic insert inside the relay or, worse, damage the output pins of the compressor itself. Repairing a compressor in case of broken pins requires calling a specialist with a gas welder and is very expensive.
After removal, inspect the inside of the relay. There may be condensation or traces of oil. If the relay is a PTC type (posistor), inside you will see a tablet that changes resistance when heated. If it crumbles into crumbs, this is the cause of the malfunction.
Comparison of characteristics and compatibility table
When purchasing a new relay, it is important to consider not only the model of the refrigerator, but also the parameters of the compressor itself. Different models Indesit can be equipped with compressors from different manufacturers (for example, Danfoss, Secop, Embraco), and their relays may differ in connection diagram and current characteristics.
There is always a marking on the body of the old relay. Look for designations like R600a (refrigerant type), voltage 220-240V and frequency 50Hz. Also important is the relay model code, which often begins with the letters PTM, PTC or RS.
Below is a table to help you navigate the main types of relays used in refrigerators of this brand. Please note that the appearance of the plastic may differ, the main thing is the coincidence of the contact pattern and current range.
| Relay type | Marking | Application | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Posistor (PTC) | PTC R600a | Modern Indesit models | One tablet, no moving contacts |
| Electromagnetic | RT (series) | Old models of refrigerators | Has a movable core and coil |
| Combined | PTC + Thermal | Units with protection in the housing | Includes a thermal protection relay |
| Universal | 4509 (analogue) | Replacement if the original is not available | Requires checking the connection diagram |
If you have not found an exact analogue, you can use universal relays, but then you will have to carefully study the connection diagram, since the location of the terminals may differ from the original. In such cases, it is better to consult with a specialist or find a diagram on the Internet for the compressor.
Frequent replacement errors and precautions
One of the common mistakes is ignoring the condition capacitor. Often the start capacitor (if your circuit has one) and the relay wear out at the same time. Replacing only the relay may not work if the capacitor has lost capacity. Check it with a tester or replace it preventively, since it is inexpensive.
Also, users often forget to clean the contacts on the compressor itself before installing a new relay. Oxides on the pins can negate the effectiveness of the new part. Wipe them with a dry cloth or carefully sand them with fine sandpaper, being careful not to scratch the metal deeply.
Do not forget about the installation direction. The relay has a top and a bottom, which is usually indicated by an arrow UP or an inscription on the body. If you install it upside down, the mechanism will not work correctly and the compressor will not start again.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of compressors and connection diagrams may vary depending on the year of manufacture and the specific modification of the refrigerator. Always check the markings on the nameplate of your device with the data on the new part before purchasing.
Installing a new relay and checking operation
The installation process is performed in reverse order. Slide the new relay onto the compressor pins, making sure they fit snugly into the sockets as far as they will go. Then secure the fixing bracket or strip, if provided by the design.
Connect the wires to the appropriate terminals. Make sure the connectors are tight and not loose. If the terminals are wide, you can gently press them with pliers for better contact, but without fanaticism, so as not to split the plastic.
Put the compressor protective casing and condensate tray back into place. Make sure that no wires are caught under the mounting bolts or touching the hot pipes. Tighten all the screws and check the reliability of the assembly.
Now you can turn on the refrigerator. At the moment of startup, you can hear a characteristic click - this is the relay being activated. The compressor should operate smoothly, without humming or vibration. During the first hour of operation, periodically check the temperature of the compressor housing - it should not become hot.
Is it possible to repair the old relay or just change it?
In 99% of cases The relay can only be replaced. The internal posistor (tablet) is not restored, and the contacts in the electromagnetic relays burn irreversibly. Attempts at cleaning or repair give a temporary effect and often lead to breakdown of the compressor.
Why does a new relay burn out after a week?
The reasons may be unstable voltage in the network, a malfunction of the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit) or incorrect selection of the current characteristics of the relay. It is also worth checking the starting capacitor.
Where can you find the relay markings on the Indesit refrigerator?
The markings are located directly on the body of the plastic relay box. To see it, you need to remove the rear compressor housing. On the nameplate of the refrigerator itself (usually inside the chamber or on the back) only the model number of the unit is indicated.
Is it safe to change the relay yourself?
Yes, if you follow electrical safety rules and completely disconnect the device from the network. The main danger is electric current and the risk of damaging the compressor tubes if the tool is handled carelessly.