Removing a compressor from a refrigerator is a complex technical operation that requires not only physical strength, but also a deep understanding of the principles of operation of the refrigeration circuit. Sealed motor-compressor is the heart of the unit, and its dismantling often becomes inevitable when completely replacing the unit or carrying out a major overhaul system repair. Unlike replacing the start relay or thermostat, this procedure requires working with copper lines and specialized tools.
Before taking active steps, you need to realize that simply “unscrewing” the compressor, like a part in a car, will not work. The design of the refrigerator involves a rigid connection of metal tubes, which are sealed by soldering. Any mistake at the preparation stage can lead to depressurization of the system, leakage of freon, or even damage to the body of the equipment. DIY Repair in this case, it saves the budget, but requires extreme concentration.
In this article we will analyze in detail each stage of the process, from preparing the workplace to the final dismantling of the unit. We will look at the necessary tools, safety measures and typical mistakes that should be avoided. It is important to understand: after removing the compressor, refilling the refrigerator with refrigerant is only possible using a vacuum pump and a filling station. Without special equipment, operating the refrigerator after such a repair is impossible.
Preparation of the workplace and the necessary tools
High-quality preparation is the key to successful repairs. You will need free space around the refrigerator, since the back wall must be accessible from all sides. The lighting should be bright so you can clearly see solder joints and pin markings. Do not start work in a hurry, as the process can take from 1 to 3 hours depending on your experience and the condition of the fasteners.
For dismantling you will need a specific set of tools. The main working tool will be a pipe cutter, which allows you to make an even cut of a copper pipe without the formation of chips inside. Using a hacksaw for metal is categorically not recommended, since fine metal dust will enter the system and can damage the new compressor or clog the capillary tube.
- 🛠️ Pipe cutter - for carefully cutting copper lines.
- 🔧 Adjustable wrench or a set of open-end wrenches - for unscrewing bolts fastenings.
- 🔨 Hammer and pliers —for working with clamps and clamps.
- 🧤 Safety gloves —copper has sharp edges, and the oil can be hot.
Also, do not forget to prepare a container to collect the oil that will remain in the system. Compressor oil is highly viscous and can severely stain floors or clothing. Cover the work area with thick film or old newspapers. If you have the opportunity, it is best to take the refrigerator out onto the balcony or into the yard, where it is easier to provide ventilation.
Safety measures and power outages
Human safety comes first. Before starting any work, you must completely disconnect the refrigerator. Unplug the power cord from the outlet. Do not limit yourself to simply turning off the button on the case, if there is one, as some models may retain residual voltage in the control circuits. Make sure that the plug is in your field of vision so that no one accidentally turns on the device during operation.
⚠️ Attention: Inside the compressor there is oil under pressure and residual refrigerant. Do not attempt to drill into the compressor housing or saw through the tubing under load. The pressure must be released carefully through a puncture or cut.
Pay special attention to the temperature of the nodes. If the refrigerator has been running recently, the compressor may be hot. Allow the equipment to cool for 30-40 minutes before dismantling. This will avoid burns and reduce the refrigerant vapor pressure in the system, making the process safer. Also check the stability of the refrigerator: it should not wobble or have the risk of tipping over when force is applied.
Wear safety glasses when working with copper pipes. Copper shavings or shards may fly into your eyes when cutting. Although the risk is low, personal protective equipment should not be neglected when working with metal. Work in a well-ventilated area, as heating or combustion of oil may release unpleasant odors.
Access to the motor-compressor and visual inspection
After the refrigerator is de-energized and moved away from the wall, remove the rear metal panel. It is usually attached with self-tapping screws around the perimeter. In some models Indesit or Atlant the panel may be plastic and can be removed upwards. Move the panel to a safe place so as not to scratch it.
The lower part of the refrigeration unit will open in front of you. You will see the black metal compressor tank, condenser (grid on the back) and tubing system. Carefully inspect the condition of the fasteners. The compressor is usually mounted on shock-absorbing rubber feet or metal skids with bolts. Determine the type of fastening, since the algorithm for your further actions depends on this.
Inspect the tubes coming from the compressor. There may be two or three of them (depending on the design). One tube is usually thicker (suction), the other thinner (discharge). The third, sealed, is used for refueling and is often cut off first. Visual inspection will also help identify traces of corrosion, oil leaks or mechanical damage that could lead to failure.
Removing refrigerant from the system
One of the most critical stages is removing the refrigerant. The freon in the system must be released before cutting the pipes. In industrial conditions, recuperators are used for this, but at home, the controlled bleeding method is most often used. The main rule: you need to do this slowly and carefully.
Find the thinnest refill tube (often it has a sealed tip). Make a small cut or puncture in its upper part. You will hear a characteristic hissing sound of escaping gas. Do not set fire the escaping gas, even if it is a propane-butane mixture, as it may contain oil impurities that will cause strong soot or a flash.
The process may take from 10 to 20 minutes. Make sure the pressure is equalized. After the hissing has stopped, you can begin to completely disassemble the circuit. Remember that refrigerants can be heavier than air and accumulate at low points, so good ventilation of the room is required.
Disconnecting electrical communications
Before physically removing the compressor, you need to disconnect its electrical part. On the side or top of the motor there is a plastic box - a start-up relay. It is through it that power is supplied to the motor windings. Remove this cover; it is usually held in place by spring clips or a single screw.
Inside you will see a terminal block. Carefully remove the wires from the contacts. They may fit tightly, so use pliers, but be careful not to damage the contacts themselves or the wire insulation. If the wires are melted or the insulation is cracked, they will need to be cleaned and built up before installing a new unit.
- 🔌 Remove the relay - carefully pull it off the compressor contacts.
- 🔌 Disconnect the capacitor - if it is attached nearby, disconnect it too.
- 🔌 Mark the wires —if there are several of them, mark which one went where (phase, zero, ground).
After disconnecting the wires, check the absence of voltage at the terminals with a multimeter, although there should not be any voltage when the plug is pulled out. This double check is never superfluous. Place the wires to the side so that they do not interfere with working with the tubes and do not get under the saw.
What to do if the contacts are oxidized?
If you see a green coating or burnt marks on the contacts, be sure to clean them with fine sandpaper or a file. Poor contact will lead to heating and re-breakage of the relay or combustion of the windings of the new compressor.
Removing the tubes and removing the compressor
Now we move on to the mechanical part itself. The tubes leading to the compressor cannot simply be “unscrewed”; they are welded or soldered. They need to be cut. Take a pipe cutter and place it on the suction tube (usually it is thicker). Clamp the tool and slowly rotate it around the tube, gradually tightening the screw.
When the pipe is cut, repeat the operation with the second tube (discharge). Try to hold the pipe cutter strictly perpendicular to ensure an even cut. If you don't have a pipe cutter, you can use a sharp knife, but this requires skill: you need to make a circular cut without damaging the inner wall, and then break the pipe. However, the risk of chips getting inside with this method is much higher.
After disconnecting all communications, the compressor still rests on the frame. Depending on the model of the refrigerator (Bosch, LG, Stinol), the fastening may be different:
- Four bolts on the legs - unscrew with a wrench.
- Two studs with nuts - require a long wrench or head.
- Spring shock absorbers - require compression or careful removal from the supports.
After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the compressor. It is quite heavy (the weight can reach 10-12 kg), so lift it by bending your knees to avoid damaging your back. Place the removed unit on its side or upside down so that leaked oil residues do not stain the floor.
☑️ Dismantling checklist
Types of fastenings and features of different models
The design of the compressor mounting may vary significantly between different manufacturers. Understanding these features will help avoid damage to the frame or the motor itself during removal. Below is a table systematizing the main types of fastenings.
| Manufacturer | Type of fastening | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Atlant | 4 bolts on rubber feet | Wrench for 10 or 12 | Often access from below is required |
| Indesit | 2 studs with nuts | Head for 10 | Nuts may be soured |
| Bosch/Siemens | Spring shock absorbers | Pliers | Requires caution when removing |
| LG/Samsung | Combined (bolts + staples) | Set of keys | Dense arrangement of components |
When working with spring shock absorbers, be careful: if removed abruptly, the spring may jump off and hit your hand or adjacent parts. It is better to hold the compressor with one hand and release the fastenings with the other. If the bolts are stuck, use a penetrating lubricant (such as WD-40) and give it time to work before stripping the threads.
Some modern models are equipped with inverter compressors, which are mounted differently and are electronically controlled. The principle of their removal is similar, but great care is required with the electronic control unit, which is often integrated directly into the motor housing. Damage to this unit will make the compressor unusable.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove compressor without evacuation of the system?
You can remove the compressor itself by simply releasing the pressure. However, if you plan to install a new compressor, then you cannot start the refrigerator without vacuuming the system (removing air and moisture). Moisture in the system will freeze in the capillary tube and block the circulation of freon, which will lead to breakdown.
Is it necessary to seal the tubes immediately after removal?
Yes, this is highly desirable. The open ends of the copper tubes of the condenser and evaporator must be plugged (soldered or tightly sealed with special tape) to prevent moisture and dust from getting inside. Even a short time of contact with air deteriorates the properties of the system.
How much does a refrigerator compressor weigh?
The weight of a standard household compressor varies from 8 to 12 kilograms. Inverter models can be lighter or heavier depending on the design and materials of the case. Take this weight into account when planning transportation.
Can an old compressor be used for other purposes?
Yes, old working compressors are often used to create homemade airbrushes, compressors for aquariums, or for inflating tires. However, remember that their performance is lower than that of specialized air compressors, and they require the installation of a receiver and filtration of the oil at the outlet.