Owners of household appliances are often faced with the need to access the internal components of the unit, be it scheduled defrosting, removing a blockage in the drainage system, or replacing a burnt-out heating element. Beko refrigerators have proven themselves to be reliable assistants, but their design requires a careful approach when carrying out repair work. Independent dismantling of the internal lining is a procedure that allows you to save significant money on calling a specialist if you act carefully and consistently.
Before starting disassembly, you must completely de-energize the device and empty the chamber of food. The inner panel, often called the “trough” or evaporation block, hides the entire “stuffing” of the No Frost system. Improper handling of plastic elements can lead to their breakage, so it is important to understand the specifics of the fastening elements of a particular model Beko.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of removing the back and side walls in the refrigerator and freezer compartments. You will learn about types of screws, hidden plugs, and the nuances of working with fragile plastic at low temperatures. Proper preparation of the workplace and the availability of the right tools are the key to successful completion of the repair without damage.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
Quality preparation for repairs takes up to 30% of the total time, but it is this that determines the success of the operation. To dismantle the refrigerator wall Beko you will need a minimum set of tools that any DIYer can find in his home. The main attention should be paid to the type of screwdrivers, since the manufacturer often uses specific screws.
You will need:
- 🔧 Phillips screwdriver (PH2 or PH1) for the main screws.
- 🪛 Slotted screwdriver with a thin blade for prying plugs.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight for illuminating hard-to-reach places inside the camera.
- 🧤 Work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges and cold.
Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the plastic. If the refrigerator has been running recently, the inside panel may be fragile due to low temperature. In some cases, it is recommended to let the unit stand turned off for several hours so that the plastic becomes more elastic and less susceptible to cracks under mechanical stress.
⚠️ Attention: Never use a metal tool with force to unsnap the plastic latches. This is guaranteed to lead to chips or breakage of the fasteners, which will then have to be restored with glue.
Removing the rear wall in the refrigerator compartment
Rear wall in the refrigerator compartment models Beko usually closes the air circulation channels and sometimes access to the sensors. The process of removing it, as a rule, is less complicated than in a freezer, but requires attention to the fastening details.
The first step is to remove all the shelves and drawers to ensure free access to the back panel. Carefully inspect the perimeter of the plastic: often the screws are hidden under decorative plugs or located in recesses that are not noticeable. On some models fastenings may be covered with a logo or sticker.
After unscrewing all visible screws, do not pull the panel sharply towards you. It can be held on by plastic latches or fit into grooves on the sides of the camera. Carefully pry the bottom edge of the wall with a slotted screwdriver, having previously protected the plastic with a soft cloth, and slowly move it away from the body.
Sudden movement will lead to broken contacts. If you feel resistance, check to see if the panel is electrically connected to the main control circuit.
Removing the evaporation unit in the No Frost freezer
The freezer compartment of the system No Frost is the most difficult unit to disassemble. This is where the evaporator, fan and defrost system are located. The back wall here serves as an air duct and a heat insulator, so it is secured as securely as possible.
Algorithm for removing the back panel in the freezer:
- ❄️ Wait until the ice is completely defrosted if the system is blocked by ice.
- 🔩 Unscrew all the screws according to the perimeter of the panel (usually there are 4-6 pieces).
- 🔌 Carefully disconnect the fan and sensor connectors.
- 🧊 Remove the plastic casing by pulling it evenly over the entire area.
A common problem during dismantling is freezing of the panel to the housing or evaporator. If the screws are removed but the wall does not come off, do not use force. Use a hair dryer to heat the perimeter or simply wait until the remaining ice melts. With a strong jerk, the plastic may burst, which will require the purchase of a new expensive part.
⚠️ Attention: In models BekoNeo Frost or double air circulation, the design of the back wall may differ. Always check the diagram of your specific modification before starting work.
After removing the panel, you will have access to the evaporator and defrost heater. This is the ideal time to clean the drainage hole, which often becomes clogged with dust and grease deposits, causing water to leak under the refrigerator.
☑️ Check before removing the panel
Features of fastening the side and top panels
In some cases, full access to the unit requires removing not only the back, but also the side walls or the top cover. This is relevant when replacing a compressor or major repairs to the circuit. In refrigerators Beko the side walls are often part of the outer casing, but the internal lining may also require dismantling.
The side panels are usually secured using long self-tapping screws located on the side of the doorway or at the back of the unit. The top cover can be fixed with latches that need to be pryed off with a screwdriver. When working with external panels, it is important not to scratch the enamel, so it is better to carry out all work on a soft surface.
The table below shows typical attachment points for different areas of the refrigerator:
| Removal area | Type of attachment | Tool | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rear wall (HK) | Screws + slots | Phillips screwdriver | Low |
| Rear wall (MK) | Screws + latches | Screwdriver + spatula | Medium |
| Fan | Screws + connector | Phillips screwdriver | High |
| Sensors | Latch + wire | No tool | Low |
When removing any panels, ensure the integrity of the seals. If the design includes rubber gaskets, be careful not to damage them with the sharp edge of the tool. A damaged seal will lead to leakage and condensation.
Working with plastic latches and fragile elements
Modern refrigerators Beko are assembled with minimal use of metal fasteners in favor of plastic clips. This speeds up assembly at the factory, but creates difficulties during repairs. Plastic loses its elasticity over time, especially under conditions of a constant freeze-thaw cycle.
The main rule of working with latches is uniform distribution of force. If you only pull on one corner of the panel, the load is concentrated at one point, leading to breakage. Use a thin plastic card or a special puller to gradually unclip the fasteners around the perimeter.
What to do if the latch breaks?
If the plastic fastening ear breaks off, do not rush to throw away the part. You can carefully drill a hole at the fracture site and tighten the plastic with a thin bolt and nut, or use epoxy glue with a reinforcing mesh. The main thing is to ensure a tight fit of the panel to the body so as not to disturb the air flow.
Some models use guides guideson which the panel slides when removed. If the panel is tight, check to see if the edge is stuck in the groove. Rocking movements from side to side with an amplitude of 1-2 millimeters help disengage the guides without damage.
⚠️ Attention: When working inside the freezer, the metal of the tools may freeze to your hands or parts. Be careful not to injure your skin or drop the tool onto the glass shelf or the bottom of the chamber.
Assembling and checking for tightness after repair
Reassembling the refrigerator Beko is performed in the reverse order of dismantling. It is critically important to install the back panel correctly: it must fit snugly around the entire perimeter of the case. Gaps will result in cold air escaping into the technical compartment rather than circulating in the chamber, which will reduce operating efficiency.
When installing the panel, first make sure that all sensor and fan wires are laid in their channels and will not be pinched by plastic. The wires should lie freely, without tension. Then carefully insert the panel into the upper grooves (if any) and snap the lower part until you hear a characteristic click.
The final stage is tightening the screws. Do not overtighten them: the plastic easily cracks under excess pressure. The screws should be tightened tightly, but not fanatically. After assembly, turn on the refrigerator and listen to the operation of the fan: there should be no extraneous noise or vibration.
Check the operation of the system 30-40 minutes after switching on. If frost begins to spread evenly on the back wall inside the chamber (in the freezer) or condensation appears (in the refrigerator), it means that the assembly was successful and the tightness has been restored.
Common mistakes when dismantling yourself
Beginners often make typical mistakes that can turn a simple repair into an expensive problem. One of the most common is trying to remove a panel without finding all the screws. The manufacturer can hide the fasteners under the rubber legs of the drawers or decorative overlays.
Another mistake is ignoring the temperature regime. Trying to remove the plastic panel immediately after the refrigerator is running while it is still cold is almost guaranteed to result in cracks. Let the plastic warm up to room temperature.
They also often forget to label the wires. In models Beko the connectors may look the same, but have different pinouts. By mixing up the temperature sensor and the defrost sensor, you risk damaging the electronic control module.
Is it possible to remove the wall without defrosting the refrigerator completely?
Technically this is possible, but it is not recommended at all. Ice hiding the fasteners or filling the space between the panel and the body will become an obstacle. If you try to forcefully remove it, you will damage the plastic or evaporator piping. It is better to spend 8-10 hours on natural defrosting than to buy a new inner chamber.
What sealant to use if the wall is cracked?
To repair cracks on the internal plastic panel of the refrigerator Beko it is necessary to use food sealants or special two-component epoxy resins that are safe in contact with products. Ordinary construction silicone may contain fungicides and be toxic.
Why did the refrigerator begin to make louder noise after assembly?
Most likely, the back panel is out of place and touches the fan blades, or vibration from the compressor is transferred to a poorly secured plastic structure. Check the tight fit of the panel and the presence of all mounting screws.
Where can I find the mounting diagram for my Beko model?
The exact diagrams (explosion diagrams) can be found in the Service Manuals for a specific model. The model number (for example, CN 332100) is located on a sticker inside the camera. It is better to search using the query "Beko [model] service manual exploded view".