Brand refrigerators Biryusa have earned a reputation as reliable and unpretentious units that have been serving for decades in kitchens across the country. However, even the most reliable equipment is subject to wear and tear, and one of the common causes of temperature violations is the failure of the thermostat. This small but critical element is responsible for maintaining the set temperature inside the chambers, turning the compressor on and off as needed.
If you notice that your refrigerator Biryusa stops turning off, works without stopping, or, conversely, does not start at all, the problem may lie in the thermostat. In such situations, you should not rush to call a technician, since replacing this component is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills and tools. The correct approach to diagnostics and dismantling will save your budget and extend the life of your refrigeration equipment.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of removing and replacing the thermostat, paying special attention to the nuances of the design of various models. You will learn how to properly prepare a workplace, what tools you will need, and what to pay attention to when installing a new part. Proper implementation of all stages ensures that your unit will work like new again.
Diagnostics of thermostat malfunction
Before you start disassembling the unit, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the thermostat and not in other components, such as the start relay or the compressor itself. Thermoregulator is a mechanical or electronic device that responds to changes in temperature inside the refrigerator compartment. If it malfunctions, there is often either a complete stop of cooling or endless operation of the compressor, leading to the formation of an ice coat.
For an initial check, you can carry out a simple test: turn on the refrigerator and wait 30-40 minutes. If the engine does not start during this time, try carefully closing the contacts on the thermostat terminals (after disconnecting the device from the mains!). If after closing the compressor starts working, then the problem is definitely in the sensor. It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the bellows tube - if it is damaged or deformed, the tightness of the system is broken, and the part must be replaced.
It is important to distinguish between the symptoms of a breakdown of the thermostat and other elements. For example, if the compressor hums but does not start, or the circuit breaker immediately trips, the problem may be with the start relay. If the motor runs continuously, but the temperature in the chamber does not drop below +10 degrees, and the evaporator is covered with an uneven layer of frost, this may also indicate a freon leak, and not just a faulty thermostat.
⚠️ Attention: Carry out all work on diagnosing the electrical part of the refrigerator only with the power completely disconnected from the network. Touching live parts under voltage is dangerous to life.
Necessary tools and preparation
To successfully dismantle the thermostat, you will need a minimum set of tools that most amateur craftsmen will have in their home. The key element is the correct one: depending on the model screwdriver: depending on model Biryusa and year of manufacture, you may need both Phillips (PH1, PH2) and flat spline tools. It would also be a good idea to have a multimeter on hand to check the continuity of the circuit and accessories for working with clamps.
Preparation of the workplace plays no less important role than the availability of tools. Clear space in front of the refrigerator to allow easy access to the back wall and door. Take care of the lighting in advance, since the internal structure of the cameras is often hidden in the shadows. If you are planning to replace a part, make sure that the new thermostat fully matches the markings of the old one, since different models may have different lengths of the capillary tube and operating temperature range.
Do not forget to prepare a container for defrosting if the evaporator needs to be defrosted during the work. Although complete defrosting is not always necessary, having rags and a basin will help avoid kitchen flooding in case of unforeseen circumstances. It is also recommended to photograph the original position of the wires and fasteners before disconnecting them, so that there is no confusion during assembly.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Design features of Biryusa thermostats
Refrigerators Biryusa equipped with various types of thermostats, and understanding their design greatly simplifies the replacement process. The most common are mechanical thermostats of the TAM series, which are installed inside the refrigeration chamber or in the control unit. Their principle of operation is based on the expansion and compression of gas or liquid inside a bellows tube, which is brought into the working area.
In more modern models, electronic sensors may be found, but mechanics remain dominant in the budget and mid-range segment. An important characteristic is the location capillary tube: in some models it is attached directly to the evaporator, in others it hangs freely in the air flow. The method of dismantling and the sensitivity of the device depend on the type of fastening.
Below is a table that helps identify the main types of thermostats found in Biryusa refrigerators:
| Thermostat type | Marking | Location | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mechanical | TAM-112, TAM-133 | Inside the chamber (plafond) | Latch fastening, insulated tube |
| Mechanical | K-50, K-59 | Outside the chamber | Requires access to the rear wall |
| Electronic | NTC sensor | In the air duct | Check with a multimeter (resistance) |
| Double-chamber | TAM-133 | Refrigerator compartment | Also controls the freezer |
Can an analogue be used?
Yes, you can use compatible analogues (for example, Danfoss instead of TAM) if they match mounting dimensions and temperature range. However, original Biryusa spare parts guarantee better compatibility.
Step-by-step dismantling process in the refrigerator compartment
If your thermostat is located inside the refrigerator compartment (most often in the upper right corner), the removal process begins with dismantling the lampshade and the regulator handle. Gently pry up the plastic handle with a flat-head screwdriver or simply pull it towards you if it is held in place by friction. Remove the decorative trim to gain access to the fixing screws or latches of the thermostat housing.
Next, you need to unscrew the screws securing the thermostat housing to the chamber wall. Be careful not to damage the plastic casing and interior lining of the refrigerator. After removing the fasteners, carefully remove the thermostat unit out. At this stage, you will see the wires approaching it and a capillary tube coming out of the body, which goes deep into the structure to the evaporator.
The most delicate stage is removing the bellows tube. It can be fixed in a special hole in the chamber wall or pressed against the evaporator with a bar. In some models Biryusa the tube is simply inserted into the hole and sealed. Act slowly, without sudden jerks, so as not to damage the thin copper tube, as bending or puncturing it will lead to instant failure of the new thermostat.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube of the thermostat is filled with refrigerant under pressure. Do not bend, stretch or heat it. Damage to the tube makes the thermostat unusable.
Removing the thermostat in the control unit
In a number of refrigerator models Biryusa the thermostat is moved outside refrigeration chamber and is integrated into the general control unit or located on the top panel of the housing. In this case, access to the part is through the rear wall of the unit or through the top cover. First, you need to move the refrigerator away from the wall and remove the protective cover covering the compressor and condenser.
Find the block where the wires from the thermostat meet. It is usually mounted on a bracket or directly on the compressor housing. Disconnect the terminals after first remembering or photographing the connection diagram. The thermostat can be attached to the bracket using screws or plastic latches. Loosen the fastening and remove the device.
The capillary tube in such models passes through the technological hole in the refrigerator body and is attached to the evaporator inside the chamber. Removing it may require partial disassembly of the interior or careful pulling through the hole from the outside. If the tube is fixed with tape or clamps on the evaporator, they must be carefully cut off or unfastened.
Installing a new thermostat and checking
Installing a new thermostat is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First of all, carefully insert the capillary tube into its working position, securing it in the same way as the old part was secured. Make sure that the tube does not touch moving parts (if any) and does not have any kinks. Then install the thermostat housing in place and secure it with screws.
Connect the electrical wires to the appropriate terminals. Here it is critical to adhere to the color coding or scheme that you fixed earlier. Incorrect connection may result in a short circuit or incorrect operation of the refrigerator. After connecting all the contacts, check that the terminals are securely fixed - they should not be loose.
After assembling all the plastic panels and handles, turn on the refrigerator. The initial launch may take some time. Check the operation of the unit during the first hour: the compressor should start, and after the set time (depending on the setting) it should turn off. If the cycle of on and off is observed, and the temperature in the chamber drops to normal, the replacement can be considered successful.
Frequent errors during replacement and troubleshooting
One of The most common mistake is incorrect placement of the capillary tube. If it does not fit tightly to the evaporator or is shifted to the side, the thermostat will “lie”, reading the temperature of the air and not the surface, which will lead to rare starts and spoilage of food. Also, technicians often forget to check the integrity of the wire insulation, which can cause a breakdown on the housing.
Sometimes after replacement, the refrigerator begins to work incorrectly due to the use of an unsuitable analogue. Different thermostats have different stroke lengths and temperature ranges. Installing a thermostat designed for lower temperatures in a household refrigerator will lead to deep freezing of food and ice fouling on the evaporator.
If after replacement the refrigerator does not turn on, check the circuit again. Perhaps the terminal came loose or the new thermostat was also defective (which is rare, but possible). Use a multimeter in continuity mode to make sure that when you turn the regulator knob, the contacts inside close.
Is it possible to repair an old thermostat?
Theoretically, some faults (for example, oxidation of contacts) can be eliminated by cleaning. However, given the low cost of the new part and the complexity of the hermetic assembly of the bellows system, repairing the old thermostat is considered economically infeasible and less reliable.
Why does the Biryusa refrigerator not turn off after replacement?
There may be several reasons: the thermostat is incorrectly selected (wrong temperature range), the capillary tube is in poor contact with the evaporator, or there is a leak in the cooling system Freon. It is also worth checking whether the temperature control knob is set correctly.
Where can you find the thermostat markings?
The markings are usually applied to the metal body of the device (for example, TAM-112, K-59). To see it, you often do not need to completely remove the thermostat - just gain access to its housing inside the chamber or behind the back cover.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before replacing?
Full defrosting is not always necessary if access to the thermostat and tube is not blocked by ice. However, if ice prevents you from carefully removing the capillary tube or getting to the fastenings, it is better to defrost the refrigerator to avoid damage to the plastic.