A sudden stop in the operation of the compressor or, conversely, its continuous hum without stopping often indicates a failure of the temperature sensor. In household refrigerators of the brand Biryusa this part is one of the most vulnerable elements of the electrical circuit, as it is subject to constant changes in temperature and humidity. Replacing the thermostat yourself is a real opportunity to save a significant amount on calling a technician if you have basic skills in working with tools and an understanding of the principles of operation of electrical appliances.
Before you start disassembling, you need to make sure that the problem lies precisely in the thermostat, and not in the start relay or the compressor. Thermostat is a mechanical or electronic device that opens and closes an electrical circuit depending on the temperature in the chamber. If it stops “feeling” the cold, the refrigerator may stop turning on, which will lead to defrosting of food, or work without interruption, causing the evaporator to freeze.
To perform this work, you will need a minimum set of tools: Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, side cutters or wire cutters, as well as a multimeter for preliminary diagnostics. It is important to observe safety precautions: any manipulations with electrical components are carried out only after the device is completely disconnected from the network. In this article we will analyze in detail the process of dismantling the old regulator and installing a new one, taking into account the design features of various models. Freon. If the refrigerator Biryusa.
Diagnosis of thermostat malfunction
The first step should always be an accurate diagnosis, as the symptoms of a faulty thermostat may coincide with compressor problems or a freon leak. If the refrigerator Biryusa does not turn on at all, but the light inside the chamber is on, this is a classic sign of an open circuit in the thermostat. In such a situation, the compressor simply does not receive a signal to start, since the contacts inside the sensor are open and do not close even when the temperature rises.
The opposite situation, when the unit works without stopping and does not turn off, also indicates sticking of the contacts or loss of sensitivity of the sensing element. In this case, capillary tube the thermostat may lose its seal, and the filler gas will evaporate, causing the membrane to stop responding to temperature changes. To finally verify the breakdown, you need to ring the device with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode.
To check, remove the plastic regulator handle and get to the contacts. If, when turning the handle and changing the position of the rod, the resistance does not change or shows infinity in both positions, the part is faulty. It is also worth paying attention to the appearance: the presence of traces of corrosion, melting or deformation of the housing indicates that replacement is inevitable.
⚠️ Attention: If after checking it turns out that the thermostat is working (the contacts ring when the temperature changes), the problem may lie in the compressor start relay or in the engine itself. Don’t rush to buy a new part until you rule out other options.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
High-quality preparation of the site and tools is the key to successful repairs and the safety of the master. You will need a stable table or cabinet next to the refrigerator so that you can place the removed parts without losing small screws. The lighting must be good, since the interior of the refrigerator compartment is often dark, and the colors of the wires may be similar.
The basic set of tools includes screwdrivers of different sizes, since the mounting screws may vary. A flat-head screwdriver is needed to carefully pry up plastic latches and remove decorative panels, which are often found in models Turk with a bottom-mounted thermostat. Also prepare a container for folding fasteners so that nothing rolls under the refrigerator.
- 🛠️ Phillips and slotted screwdrivers - for dismantling casings and screw connections.
- 🔪 Stationery knife or side cutters - for carefully removing insulation or trimming clamps (if required).
- 📏 Pliers - for securely gripping small parts and pulling out the capillary tube.
- 🧤 Dielectric gloves - additional protection when working with electrical circuits.
It is important to purchase a new thermostat in advance, completely similar to the old one. They differ in length capillary tube, type of rod, presence of grounding and temperature range. If you make a mistake with the model, the new sensor may not fit in size or will not regulate the temperature correctly, which will lead to spoilage of food.
☑️ Preparation for repair
Access to the thermostat: design features
In refrigerators Biryusa the thermostat can be located in two main places: inside the refrigeration chamber or outside, in the upper part of the case. The location depends on the series and year of manufacture of the model. In most modern modifications, the regulator is located inside, which requires partial disassembly of the internal space.
If the thermostat is located inside, it is usually hidden under a plastic cover or located in the same row as the lighting lamp. To gain access, you need to remove the lamp shade, if it is in the way, and carefully unscrew the screws holding the regulator body. In some models, such as Biryusa 6 or Biryusa 8, access is through removing the top panel of the refrigerator compartment.
When located externally (found in older models), the task simplified: just remove the top cover of the refrigerator body by unscrewing two screws on the back. However, in this case you need to be extremely careful with the capillary tube that passes through the housing wall into the evaporator. Damage to this thin tube during careless removal will lead to freon leakage and expensive repairs.
| Type of location | Biryusa models | Difficulty of access | Risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Internal | Most modern ones (KSh-260, 330) | Average | Damage to the camera plastic |
| External (top) | Old models (Biryusa 3, 6) | Low | Damage to the capillary tube |
| Under the ceiling | Models with a combined block | High | Damage to the lamp wiring |
Regardless of the design, before starting work, be sure to defrost the refrigerator if there is ice in the chamber. Working with wet live components (even theoretically) is unacceptable, and water can get on the contacts of the new thermostat.
The process of dismantling the old thermostat
After providing access to the unit, the first thing you need to do is photograph the wiring diagram. This is a critical point, since the color coding of wires in different batches Biryusa may vary, and relying only on memory is dangerous. Remember or sketch which wire goes where: usually this is the phase wire, the ground wire (yellow-green) and the wire going to the compressor.
Carefully disconnect the terminals from the thermostat contacts. If the terminals are tight, use pliers, but be careful not to use too much force to avoid breaking the wires at the very base. If the wires run in a common corrugation or bundle, they must be carefully released so as not to damage the insulation.
The most delicate part of the process is removal capillary tube from the evaporator. It is inserted into a special socket and can be fixed with a clamp or simply sit tightly in the hole. You cannot pull on the tube itself - it is very thin and breaks easily. It is necessary to pull the thermostat body, gently loosening it so that the tube comes out of the seat along with it.
⚠️ Attention: The capillary tube is filled with freon gas under pressure. If it is damaged, gas will come out with a characteristic whistle. This is not dangerous to humans, but will render the thermostat unusable. Act smoothly and without jerking.
What to do if the capillary tube is stuck?
If the tube cannot be removed, do not use force. Try slightly warming the outlet of the tube from the evaporator with a hairdryer (at minimum temperature) or drop a little warm water. The plastic of the evaporator may become slightly deformed from the cold and pinch the tube. You can also try to carefully rotate the thermostat around its axis to loosen the tube in the socket.
After removing the tube, unscrew the screws securing the thermostat housing to the chamber wall or bracket. Remove the device completely and discard it. Inspect the seat for dirt or corrosion and, if necessary, wipe with a dry cloth.
Installing a new temperature controller
Installation of a new thermostat is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First of all, insert capillary tube into the hole of the evaporator. It must fit tightly and all the way for the sensing element to correctly read the temperature. Make sure that the tube is not kinked or kinked, as this will disrupt the circulation of gas inside it.
Fix the thermostat housing in its original place using screws. If the new part comes with a new clamp or fastener, use it. Connect the wires strictly according to the diagram or photograph made earlier. The yellow-green wire is always connected to the ground terminal (usually marked with the appropriate symbol) to avoid electric shock if the insulation breaks down.
For contact reliability, it is recommended to use crimp terminals if the old ones look oxidized or melted. You cannot simply twist the wires and insulate them with electrical tape in the refrigerator - the vibration of the compressor will quickly break such a connection. After connecting, check that all elements inside the housing are securely fixed.
- ✅ Check whether the wires are pinched by the housing when installing the cover.
- ✅ Make sure that the regulator knob rotates freely and does not get stuck.
- ✅ The capillary tube should be straightened inside the chamber and not touch moving parts (if there is a fan).
Now you can replace the decorative panels, lamp shade and other removed elements. Make sure that all latches click into place. If you removed the top cover of the case, tighten all the screws.
Setting up and checking operation
After assembly, turn on the refrigerator. In the first minutes of operation, listen: the compressor should start. If there is no hum and the light is on, try turning the thermostat knob to the coolest position. This will help close the contacts forcibly if the new regulator has a large hysteresis (difference between on and off temperatures).
Let the refrigerator operate for several hours. It should reach temperature and turn off automatically. If shutdown does not occur for a long time (more than 2-3 hours for an empty chamber), the thermostat may be set too low or defective. Mechanical regulators sometimes require adjustment with a screw on the body, but this requires skills and an accurate thermometer.
Pay attention to the operating cycle: a normal mode is considered to be in which the refrigerator operates for about 15-20 minutes and rests for 30-40 minutes (depending on the load and temperature in the room). If the cycle is too short (it turns on and off frequently), this can lead to rapid wear of the compressor.
During operation, watch for the formation of a “snow coat” on the back wall. If the ice builds up evenly and thaws during the defrost cycle, everything is fine. If the ice does not melt or is not there at all, you may need to adjust the position of the capillary tube or replace the thermostat with a model with a different temperature range.
Is it possible to install a thermostat from another manufacturer?
Technically possible if the dimensions, length of the capillary tube and temperature range match. However, manufacturers use different types of fasteners and rods. Universal thermostats (for example, TAM-133) are often suitable instead of the original ones, but may require modification of the seat or the use of adapters.
Why does the new thermostat click, but the refrigerator does not turn on?
The click means that the contacts are closed, but the current does not pass further. The reason may be poor contact in the terminals