Removing insulation from a refrigerator is a task encountered during major repairs, replacing the evaporator or eliminating freezing of the walls. Improper dismantling can lead to damage to the polyurethane foam (PUF), depressurization of the chamber, or even failure of the compressor due to poor thermal insulation. In this article we will look at step-by-step technique for removing insulation for different types of refrigerators (No Frost, drip, Soviet models), list the necessary tools and tell you how to avoid common mistakes.
It is important to understand that the design of the insulation varies depending on brand and year of manufacture equipment. For example, in old refrigerators (ZIL, Minsk, Biryusa), the insulation is often attached to bitumen mastic, and in modern ones (Samsung, LG, Indesit) - using polyurethane foam and plastic clips. We will take these nuances into account so that the instructions are suitable for most cases.
If you have never repaired refrigeration equipment, start by studying device diagrams of your model (it can be found in the user manual or on the manufacturer’s website). This will help avoid damage to the freon circuit or electrical wiring, which often pass near the insulating layer.
Preparation for dismantling: tools and safety measures
Before you start work, make sure that the refrigerator completely defrosted and unplugged. Residual moisture inside the insulation can cause corrosion of metal parts or a short circuit when the power is turned on. Also prepare your work space: the refrigerator should be on a flat surface, and there should be enough room around it to maneuver.
Here minimum set of toolsthat you will need to remove the insulation:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers (phillips and flathead) - for dismantling internal panels.
- 🔨 Metal hacksaw or jigsaw - if cutting the box is required.
- 🧲 Magnetic holder - for fixing small metal parts (screws, staples).
- 🧴 Sealant (silicone or polyurethane) - to restore insulation after repair.
- 🧤 Respirator and gloves - polyurethane foam dust is harmful to the respiratory tract.
⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator was manufactured before 2000, its insulation may contain asbestos or other harmful substances. In this case, it is better to carry out work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, using a respirator with a filter. under decorative plugs. To avoid damaging the case, inspect the internal walls for plastic clips or screws under the stickers. To detect them, you can use a flashlight - direct the light at an angle to the surface. FFP2.
Some models (eg Atlant or Stinol) have hidden insulation fastenings under decorative plugs. To avoid damaging the case, inspect the internal walls for plastic clips or screws under the stickers. To detect them, you can use a flashlight - direct the light at an angle to the surface.
Step-by-step instructions: how remove the insulation from different parts of the refrigerator
The insulation in the refrigerator is located between the inner and outer walls of the case. It can be accessed after removing the inner lining. Let's consider the process for three key areas: rear wall, doors and side panels.
1. Dismantling the insulation of the rear wall
The rear wall is the most vulnerable place, since freon tubes and electrical wiring pass here. proceed carefully:
- Remove the shelves and drawers, turn off the temperature sensors (if any).
- Unscrew the screws that secure the inner panel (usually they are hidden under the plugs).
- Pry the panel with a flat screwdriver and carefully remove it. Underneath it you will see a layer of insulation (PPU or mineral wool).
- If the insulation is glued, separate it with a knife, moving from the edges to the center. For fixed slabs (for example, in Liebert), cutting may be required.
2. Removing insulation from the door
The refrigerator door has a more complex structure due to the rubber seal and fastening system. It is important here not to damage the hinges and magnetic seal:
- 🔄 Remove the door from the hinges (you will need an assistant - it is heavy!).
- 🔧 Remove the screws around the perimeter of the inner panel.
- 🔪 Carefully cut off the mounting foam along the contour insulation (in models Samsung RB or Bosch KGN the foam can be hard).
- 🧲 Remove the insulating block, if necessary, cutting it into pieces.
⚠️ Attention: In the doors of refrigerators with a water dispenser (LG Instaview, Samsung Family Hub) additional tubes and wires pass through. Before dismantling, take a photo of their location so that they can be reassembled correctly!
3. Side panels and top cover
The insulation on the side walls is usually thinner, but its removal requires care due to the close location of the condenser (in models with No Frost). Use the following algorithm:
Make sure that the condenser has cooled down (at least 30 minutes after switching off)
Remove the decorative trims (they can be attached with latches)
Mark with a marker the places where the insulation was cut (if required)
Use a hacksaw with a fine tooth for a neat cut-->
In refrigerators Side-by-Side (for example, Samsung RS62) the side panels are often removable - they can be separated without cutting, by pulling towards you with force. If the insulation is glued to a metal body, use a hair dryer to soften the glue (temperature no higher 60°Cso as not to deform the plastic).
Typical mistakes and how to avoid them
Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes when working with insulation. Here are the most common of them and ways to prevent them:
| Error | Consequences | How to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Using an angle grinder for cutting | Damage to the freon circuit, sparks can ignite the foam | Use a hacksaw for metal or a jigsaw with a file for plastic |
| Violation of the integrity of the sealing rubber | Loss of tightness, increased energy consumption | Remove the rubber carefully, pre-heated with a hairdryer |
| Incomplete removal of old insulation | Reduced thermal insulation, condensation formation | Remove all foam fragments, clean the surface with acetone |
| Ignoring leakage testing freon | Compressor failure after 1-2 months | After repair, turn on the refrigerator for 24 hours and check the temperature |
Critical error: trying to remove the insulation without first defrosting the refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Wet polyurethane foam loses its thermal insulation properties and can become a breeding ground for mold.
Another common problem is damage capillary tube (thin copper tube running from the compressor to the evaporator). It often runs inside the insulating layer of the back wall. If you accidentally cut it, immediately pinch the ends with pliers and solder silver solder (the usual one will not work!). After repair, be sure to refill the system with freon otherwise the refrigerator will not cool.
How to restore insulation after dismantling
After repair or replacement of parts, it is necessary to restore the thermal insulation layer. The following materials are suitable for this:
- 🏗️ Polyurethane foam (PPU) —the best option for most refrigerators. Sold in cylinders (for example, Tytan Professional).
- 🧊 Extruded polystyrene foam - suitable for doors, as it does not crumble and is easy to cut.
- 🧵 Mineral wool - used in older models, but requires waterproofing (films).
- 🔥 Self-adhesive foil insulation - for additional heat reflection (for example, Penofol).
Technology restoration:
- Clean the surface from the remnants of the old insulation and degrease it.
- Apply polyurethane foam in a thin layer, avoiding contact with tubes and wires.
- Press the new insulation (for example, polystyrene foam) and secure it with paint tape.
- After drying (24 hours), cut off excess foam and cover with a panel.
To seal the seams, use silicone sealant (for example, Moment GermentIn models with No Frost Pay special attention to the area around the fan - there should be no gaps here, otherwise the evaporator will freeze.
What to do if the new insulation does not hold?
If foam or polystyrene foam falls off, the reasons may be the following:
1. The surface has not been degreased (use acetone or white spirit).
2. The room temperature is below +10°C (the foam does not polymerize well).
3. The foam layer is too thick (optimally 2–3 cm).
In this case, remove the material, clean the surface and repeat the procedure with new insulation.
Features of working with refrigerators of different brands
The design of the insulation may vary significantly depending on the manufacturer. Let's consider the key nuances for popular brands:
| Brand | Insulation type | Dismantling features |
|---|---|---|
| Atlant, Biryusa | Polyurethane foam on bitumen mastic | Heating with a construction hairdryer is required to separate the insulation from the metal |
| Samsung, LG | Mounting foam + plastic clips | Clips break when removed carelessly - stock up on new ones in advance |
| Indesit, Ariston | Polystyrene foam in removable panels | Panels are attached with latches - pry them off with a flathead screwdriver |
| Liebert, Beko | Hard PPU boards | A hacksaw and chisel may be required for accurate cutting |
In refrigerators No Frost (for example, Samsung RB37 or Bosch KGE39) the insulation is often combined: polyurethane foam + foil layer. When dismantling, try not to damage the foil - it reflects heat and reduces the load on the compressor. If the foil is torn, replace it with a new one. using aluminum tape for fixation.
⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators Samsung with a system Twin Cooling Plus (two independent chambers), the insulation between the freezing and refrigeration zones has an additional barrier. Do not remove it completely - this will disrupt the microclimate in the chambers!
When is it better to turn to professionals
Despite the fact that you can remove the insulation yourself, in some cases it is better to trust a specialist:
- 🔧 If the refrigerator is under warranty - amateur performance will cancel it.
- ⚡ If during dismantling you damaged the freon line (hissing or oil appeared on the tubes).
- ❄️ If after repair the refrigerator does not cool or ice forms on the walls.
- 📏 If the insulation glued to the body epoxy resin (found in industrial models).
The cost of professional dismantling of insulation in service centers ranges from 1500 to 4000 rubles, depending on the complexity. This amount usually includes:
- Diagnostics of the state of thermal insulation.
- Dismantling and disposal of old insulation.
- Installation of new material with sealing.
- Checking operation refrigerator after repair.
If you decide to contact the service, choose companies with a license to repair refrigeration equipment. Ask the technician to show certificate for freon (for example, R134a or R600a) - this is a guarantee that you will be charged with the original refrigerant, and not cheap analogue.
Frequently asked questions about removing insulation from a specialist. refrigerator
Is it possible to remove the insulation without disassembling the refrigerator?
No, access to the insulation is possible only after dismantling the internal panels. In some models (for example, Samsung RL), you can partially remove the insulation through technological holes, but this will not provide full access for repairs.
How to replace the original insulation if it is not on sale?
Any polyurethane foam with a density of at least 30 kg/m³ will do (for example, Penosil or MakroflexFor doors, you can use extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness). 2–3 cm.
How do you understand that the insulation is damaged and needs to be replaced?
Signs of insulation failure:
- The refrigerator runs non-stop, but does not cool.
- Condensation appears on the outer walls.
- When you touch the case, you feel a temperature difference (one side is warmer).
- Ice forms inside the chamber on the back wall (in models without No Frost).
How long does it take to replace the insulation?
On average, the process takes from 4 to 8 hours, depending on the model:
- Soviet refrigerators (ZIL, Minsk) - 6-8 hours (due to bitumen mastic).
- Modern models (Indesit, Beko) - 3-4 hours.
- Side-by-Side - up to 10 hours (due to the large volume of insulation).
Please note that after replacement the refrigerator must stand 12–24 hours before turning on, so that the foam is completely polymerized.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator without insulation?
Technically yes, but this will lead to:
- Increased energy consumption (by 30–50%).
- Formation of condensation on the external walls.
- Overheating of the compressor and its rapid wear.
- Violation of the temperature regime in the chambers.
Without insulation, the refrigerator will last no more than 1-2 years.