The appearance of water on the floor under the refrigerator is one of the most common problems faced by owners of household appliances. Often the source of trouble is an overfilled or misaligned evaporation traylocated directly above the compressor motor. Moisture may leak out due to a clogged drainage hole, a malfunction of the No Frost system, or simple evaporation of condensate that does not have time to evaporate.
Before proceeding with disassembly, you must completely disconnect the unit from the electrical network. Working with electrical appliances requires compliance with safety precautions, since the compressor and start relay are energized. Dismantling the protective casing and removing the tray is a simple procedure, but it requires care and understanding of the structure of the back wall of your refrigerator.
In this article we will analyze in detail the process of removing the bath, cleaning the system and checking its tightness. You will learn how to properly remove the back cover without damaging the fragile plastic, and what to do if the tray is cracked. Proper maintenance of this area will extend the life of the compressor and prevent corrosion of metal parts.
Design of the condensate removal system
The moisture removal system in the refrigerator is based on the principle of gravity. Water formed on the back wall of the chamber or as a result of defrosting the evaporator flows along the grooves into drainage hole. Further through the tube, the liquid enters a plastic container installed directly above the hot compressor. The heat from a running motor promotes the rapid evaporation of moisture into the atmosphere.
The design may vary depending on the manufacturer. In models Indesit i Atlant the tray is often attached directly to the condenser tubes or to the compressor housing using special clamps. In technology LG or Samsung the container can be built into the common frame of the rear panel. Understanding the type of fastening will help you avoid breaking the plastic during dismantling.
The main function of this part is the collection and disposal of condensate. If the system is working properly, water should not spill out. However, over time, blockages from dust and mucus may form in the tube, and the tray itself may become displaced or deformed. It is critically important to monitor the integrity of the tray, since water entering the electrical contacts of the start relay can cause a short circuit.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, make sure that the refrigerator is defrosted and unplugged for at least 2–3 hours. Residual moisture in the system can lead to electric shock if accidental contact with exposed wires.
Necessary tools and preparation
To carry out high-quality diagnostics and cleaning, you will need a minimum set of tools. Do not use heavy professional tools that can damage plastic latches or thin-walled tubes. What you usually have in your home toolbox will be enough.
First of all, prepare a container to collect water, since when you remove the tray, accumulated liquid may spill out of it. You will also need rags or paper towels to wipe surfaces. A special brush or soft wire is ideal for cleaning the drainage tube.
- 🔧 Phillips screwdriver (PH1 or PH2) for unscrewing the fastening screws.
- 🧤 Flat screwdriver or spatula for carefully removing plastic plugs.
- 🧼 A syringe with hot water for flushing the drainage hole.
- 🧽 Cleaning agent for removing mold and unpleasant odors.
Pay special attention to lighting the work area. The back of the refrigerator is often poorly lit, and in order not to damage copper tubes or the insulation of the wires, it is better to use an additional light source, such as a headlamp or lamp.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Removing the rear protective panels
Access to the compressor and evaporation bath is closed with a metal or cardboard panel. In most modern models it is bolted around the perimeter. In some cases, for example, in older models Biryusa or Zil, the panel may be held on by latches, which requires careful handling.
First, inspect the perimeter of the panel. If you can see the screw heads, they need to be unscrewed. Be careful: the screws may be of different lengths, so arrange them in the order you unscrew them so that during assembly you do not mix them up and damage the threads in the deeper holes.
After removing the fasteners, the panel must be removed. Sometimes it can “stick” to the body due to dirt or rust. Do not use excessive force. Lightly tapping the edges of the panel with your palm will help remove it from its place. If the panel is cardboard, like some models Indesit, make sure that it does not tear or delaminate due to moisture.
By removing the cover, you will have full access to the motor-compressor, the start relay and, in fact, to our goal - the condensate collection tray. Inspect the area around: there should be no foreign objects, rodents or signs of active corrosion.
The process of removing the bath above the compressor
The tray itself can be secured in various ways. The most common option is that it is simply put on the condenser tubes or installed in special grooves on the compressor housing. In other cases, a plastic clamp or screw connection is used. Determine the type of fastening visually before starting manipulations.
If the tray is supported by tubes, it must be carefully lifted up and removed. Movements should be smooth, without jerking. Plastic that has been heated and cooled for years becomes brittle, and one awkward movement can lead to a crack. If you hear a characteristic crunch, stop and try to rock the part a little from side to side.
In models with screw fastening, you first need to free access to the fastener head. It is often hidden under a layer of dust or located in a hard-to-reach place. Use a magnetic screwdriver to avoid dropping the screw inside the housing, where it will be extremely difficult to remove.
What to do if the tray is stuck?
If the plastic tray is stuck to the metal tubes or compressor housing, do not try to tear it off by force. Treat the joint with warm water from a syringe to soften the dirt. You can carefully pry the edge with a spatula, but act very carefully so as not to damage the thin-walled condenser tubes, the leakage of which will lead to failure of the refrigerator.
After successful dismantling, inspect the inner surface of the container. Mucus, mold and oxidation products often accumulate there. This is not only a source of unpleasant odor, but also a favorable environment for the growth of bacteria. Rinse the part thoroughly.
Cleaning, rinsing and checking for leaks
High-quality cleaning is the key to avoiding problems in the future. Wash the removed tub with warm water and a mild detergent. Do not use abrasive powders or hard brushes, which may cause micro-scratches. In scratches, dirt will accumulate even faster.
At the same time, it is necessary to clean the drainage tube leading to the tray. Take a syringe with hot water and flush the system under pressure. If the water drains slowly or does not drain at all, use a thin brush or wire with cotton wool to mechanically clean the channel.
Check the integrity of the tray itself. There should be no cracks in the plastic, especially at the attachment points and at the bottom. Even a microscopic crack will expand over time under the influence of temperature changes. If defects are found, the part must be replaced or temporarily sealed with a waterproof sealant (although replacement is preferable).
| System element | Symptom of malfunction | Elimination method |
|---|---|---|
| Drain tube | Water stands in the groove inside the chamber | Cleaning with a brush and pouring with hot water |
| Evaporation tray | Cracks, chips, deformation | Replacement of a part or sealing |
| Tray fastenings | Looseness, rust of clamps | Tightening or replacing fasteners |
| Compressor | Traces of corrosion under the tray | Cleaning and anticorrosive treatment |
After cleaning, reassemble everything in the reverse order. Make sure the tray fits snugly and levelly. The distortion can lead to water overflowing even with a normal level of condensation.
Assembly and final check of operation
Install the back panel in place. If it's metal, make sure all the screw holes line up. Do not tighten the screws “all the way” at once: first tighten all the fasteners, and then tighten them evenly diagonally. This will prevent the panel from skewing and vibration.
After assembly, turn on the refrigerator. During the first hours of operation, carefully observe the rear wall. The compressor will begin to heat up, starting the process of evaporating moisture from the tray. This is normal: the surface of the tray should become warm.
Check the floor under the refrigerator after 30-60 minutes of operation. If it’s dry, it means the condensate drainage system is functioning correctly. If water continues to appear, the reason may not be in the tray, but in an overfilled water receiver inside the chamber or the displacement of the refrigerator itself.
⚠️ Attention: If after turning on you hear unusual gurgling or hissing, immediately turn off the appliance. This may indicate a violation of the tightness of the freon circuit, which could occur as a result of careless actions when removing the tray.
Typical maintenance errors
Often users, trying to quickly solve a problem, make mistakes that lead to more serious damage. One of the most common is an attempt to tear off the tray by force without understanding the design. This leads to breakdown of the condenser tubes, the repair of which requires calling a technician and refilling with freon.
Another mistake is ignoring the condition of the drain tube. People wash the tray itself, but forget to clean the channel through which water flows into it. As a result, water continues to stagnate inside the refrigerator compartment, spoiling food and creating puddles on the shelves.
It is also not recommended to use aggressive chemicals, such as high concentrations of chlorine-containing agents, for cleaning. Chlorine vapors can adversely affect rubber seals and plastic parts, making them brittle.
- ❌ Using sharp metal objects to clean the drain (risk of puncturing the tube).
- ❌ Turning on the refrigerator with wet electrical components.
- ❌ Installation tray with a skew, which disrupts the evaporation process.
Maintenance of accuracy and consistency of actions will allow you to cope with the task yourself and save the budget for family repairs. Remember that regular care of equipment significantly extends its service life.
Is it possible to remove the tray without moving the refrigerator completely?
Theoretically, it is possible if you have a very narrow and flexible tool, as well as excellent lighting. However, manufacturers recommend moving the unit at least 1 meter away to ensure air access and ease of operation. Attempts to do this “by eye” or using a mirror often lead to damage to the tubes or poor-quality installation of the part.
What to do if the tray is cracked and a new one cannot be found?
If the original spare part cannot be found, you can use the temporary sealing method. Dry and degrease the crack thoroughly, then apply food grade silicone sealant or epoxy resin (from the outside). However, this is a temporary solution: when heated by the compressor, the patch may come off, so it is better to look for a universal tray of a suitable size or make a replacement from heat-resistant plastic.
Why does the water in the tray not evaporate?
The main reason is insufficient heating of the compressor. This may happen if the refrigerator is in energy saving mode and rarely turns on, or if the room is too cold. It is also possible that the tray is installed too far from the heat source or has a volume that is too large for your refrigerator model. In some cases, high humidity in the room is to blame.