The appearance of persistent unpleasant an odor that cannot be eliminated by washing, or mechanical damage to the walls of the refrigerator compartment often confronts the owner with the need for complex intervention. The internal plastic lining, or liner, is not just a decorative element, but an important part of the structure that protects the heat-insulating layer and forms the volume of the chambers. Dismantling of plastic It is rarely required, usually in critical situations when deep sanitation of the space between the body and the chamber or replacement of the evaporator is required.
Many users mistakenly believe that you can peel off or unscrew the plastic in five minutes, however, the design of modern models Indesit, Atlant or LG provides for solidity or a complex fastening system. Careless actions often lead to rupture of thermal insulation, breakdown of the freon circuit, or breakage of fragile plastic latches. Therefore, before starting work, you need to clearly understand the structure of your model and have special tools at hand.
In this article we will analyze in detail the technological process of removing the internal tank, paying special attention to the nuances of working with polyurethane foam and the risks associated with the leakage of the cooling system. It is critically important to understand: if the smell is caused by freon or burning wiring inside the wall, a simple wash will not help - complete disassembly will be required. The correct approach will preserve the functionality of the unit and avoid costly repairs in the service center center.
Diagnostics and preparation of the workplace
Before taking a screwdriver, it is necessary to conduct a thorough diagnosis to make sure that removing the casing is really necessary. Often the cause of the smell is old grease on the seals or mold in the drainage hole, which can be eliminated without complete disassembly. If the source of the problem is hidden deep in the walls, for example, liquid got there during defrosting or an insulation breakdown occurred, then dismantling is inevitable.
Preparation of the workplace plays a key role in the success of the operation. You will need a spacious area around the refrigerator, good lighting and a set of tools. Be sure to empty the chambers of products and shelves so that nothing interferes with access to the fastening elements. Safety is a priority task, since the work will be carried out with electrical appliances and fragile materials.
- 🛠️ Tools: Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, a set of hexagons, a knife with a thin blade, construction hair dryer (to soften the glue), spatula.
- 🧤 Protection: thick gloves (plastic may have sharp edges), goggles to protect the eyes from insulation crumbs.
- 🧼 Consumables: degreaser, rags, cling film (to protect the mechanisms from dust).
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any disassembly work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply! Working with the appliance plugged in with the panels removed creates a risk of short circuit and electric shock.
Pay special attention to the model of your refrigerator. In some budget models, the inner chamber can be made of thin plastic, which easily cracks in the cold, while in premium segments a more durable one is used. Understanding the material will help you choose the right tactics of influence: somewhere you need to heat, and somewhere you need to act exclusively mechanically. ABS plastic. Understanding the material will help you choose the right tactics of influence: in some places you need to heat, and in others you need to act exclusively mechanically.
Design features of the internal chambers
The inside of the refrigerator, which we see when opening the door, is technically called the liner. Depending on the manufacturer and year of manufacture, the method of attaching the liner to the metal body may differ radically. Older models often used gluing technology, where the plastic was glued to the metal through a layer of insulation, which made its removal almost impossible without damage.
Modern units, such as Bosch or Electrolux, more often use a system of hidden latches and screws located behind decorative plugs. The liner can be one-piece (vacuum molded), which simplifies cleaning, but complicates repairs, since if the corner is damaged, the entire chamber has to be replaced. In two-chamber models, the design is even more complex due to the presence of a partition between the freezer and refrigerator compartments.
| Type of fastening | Characteristic models | Difficulty of removal | Risks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hidden screws + latches | Samsung, LG | Average | Breakage of plastic ears |
| Adhesive layer (foam) | Old ZIL, Biryusa | High | Destruction of the liner |
| Combined (screws + glue) | Indesit, Ariston | High | Damage to thermal insulation |
| Modular system | Premium class | Low | Minimum |
Why does plastic turn yellow over time?
Yellowing of the internal plastic of the refrigerator occurs under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (if the refrigerator is located near the window) and the oxidation of fire retardants, added to plastic for fire safety. It is impossible to return the white color with regular washing; either chemical bleaching with hydrogen peroxide with ultraviolet activation or replacement of the part is required.
It is important to note that behind the liner there is a layer polyurethane foam. This is a foam material that acts as a heat insulator. It can be rigidly coupled to a plastic or metal body. In case of careless dismantling, the insulation crumbles, dust flies, which irritates the respiratory tract, so a respirator in such a situation will not be superfluous.
Dismantling of auxiliary elements and fasteners
The process of removing the casing always begins with the removal of all hanging elements. Shelves, drawers, containers on the door - all this needs to be removed. However, the main attention should be paid to hidden attachment points. Often the screws holding the back wall or side panels are hidden under plastic plugs or rubber seals.
Start at the top of the refrigerator compartment. In some models there is a lighting lamp or control unit, which can also fix part of the cladding. Using a plastic card or thin screwdriver, carefully pry off the decorative trims. Do not use excessive force: if the element does not fit, it means you have not found all the screws.
☑️ Checklist before removing the plastic
- 🔍 Search for screws: carefully inspect the ends of the shelves, places fastening the handles and the bottom of the chamber.
- 🧊 Evaporator: if your model is No Frost, the back wall covers the evaporator and fan. Removing this panel requires special care.
- 🔌 Wiring: Before completely separating the plastic, check whether temperature sensors or a light button are connected to it.
It is especially difficult to remove the sealing rubber around the perimeter doorway. It is often tucked into a special groove and at the same time presses the edge of the inner plastic. In such cases, the rubber must be carefully bent or, in rare cases, temporarily dismantled in order to gain access to the liner fasteners.
⚠️ Attention: In models with the No Frost system, fragile evaporator tubes and electric heating elements are located behind the rear plastic panel. Do not allow moisture to get on the electrical contacts and do not apply force to the tubes - they are filled with freon under pressure.
Technology for separating the liner from the body
When all visible fasteners are removed, the most critical stage begins - separating the plastic from the base. If the design involves an adhesive layer or a tight fit in polyurethane foam, you need to proceed slowly. Sharp jerks will lead to the plastic will burst, especially if it is frozen and has become brittle.
Use a hair dryer at minimum temperature to slightly warm up the joints. This will make the plastic more elastic and soften the glue. Insert a thin spatula or special plastic tool between the body and the liner, working your way around the perimeter. The movements should be progressive, without a lever that could break the wall.
During the separation process, you may encounter resistance to thermal insulation. Polyurethane foam can remain on the metal, or it can trail behind the plastic. The main thing is not to damage the integrity of the metal box, since moisture can penetrate through microcracks in the future, causing corrosion. If you are removing the sheathing to eliminate the odor, make sure you get to the source - often the stench comes from saturated insulation.
Odor elimination and insulation repair
After successfully removing the sheathing, access to the space between the chambers opens. This is where condensation often accumulates, which over time turns into a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. If the reason for disassembly is odor, it is necessary to thoroughly dry and disinfect all surfaces. Use safe antiseptics that do not leave toxic traces.
If the thermal insulation was damaged during dismantling (chips or holes appeared), it must be restored. To do this, you can use polyurethane foam with a low coefficient of expansion or special repair kits for refrigerators. It is important to fill all voids to avoid the formation of “cold bridges” that will lead to ice freezing outside or inside the chamber.
- 🧽 Cleaning: Remove all crumbs and dust from the old insulation with a vacuum cleaner.
- 🌬️ Drying: Leave the refrigerator open for a day to completely remove the moisture.
- 🔧 Sealing: check the integrity of the drainage tubes that could be sandwiched between the walls.
When assembling, it is important not only to return the plastic to its place, but also to ensure its tight fit. Gaps can cause air whistling or additional noise when the compressor operates. If you changed seals or wiring, make sure that the cables are not pinched and are in the standard channels.
Assembly and final check
Reassembly requires no less care than disassembly. Place the liner in place, making sure all the guides line up. Tighten the screws lightly to avoid stripping the threads in the plastic. Consistently return the seals, shelves and decorative elements to their place.
After the refrigerator is assembled, do not rush to load the food. Plug in the device and let it run idle for 2-3 hours. This will allow the system to enter mode and make sure that the temperature is set correctly and there is no extraneous noise. Check the tightness of the door and the operation of the lighting.
⚠️ Attention: If after assembly you notice that the refrigerator begins to freeze less easily or condensation appears on the outer wall ("sweats"), it means that the thermal insulation is broken or the door does not close tightly due to distortion of the plastic.
High-quality work done on Removing and installing the casing will extend the life of your refrigerator. However, if you feel unsure of your abilities or the refrigerator model is too complex (for example, with built-in electronics in the walls), it is better to turn to professionals. DIY Repair is always a risk, but if you follow the instructions, it is completely worth it.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to remove the skin without damaging the thermal insulation?
In modern models with adhesive layer it is almost impossible. Polyurethane foam often sticks tightly to plastic or metal. With careful work, damage can be minimized, but small chips of the insulation are almost inevitable. They can be easily sealed with polyurethane foam.
How to wash the yellow plastic inside the refrigerator?
Ordinary detergents will not remove the chemical discoloration. The most effective solution is a mixture of hydrogen peroxide (12%) and activation by sunlight (or a UV lamp) for several hours. A special paste for restoring plastic also helps.
Why did the refrigerator start to work louder after assembly?
You probably did not secure the back panel of the evaporator well, or vibration from the compressor is transmitted to poorly inserted plastic. Also check whether the fan blades (in No Frost) do not touch the removed and reinstalled wall.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before removing the casing?
Yes, definitely. Warm plastic is more elastic and less fragile. In addition, the presence of ice inside the channels or on the evaporator can interfere with dismantling and lead to water leakage when melting during operation.
Where can I find a disassembly diagram for my model?
The best source is the official Service Manual for a specific model. They can be found by searching for “model + service manual” or “model + explosion view”. All screws and components are indicated there.