How to remove the back wall of the Veko refrigerator: complete instructions

Modern refrigerators Beko are known for their reliability and thoughtful design, but even the highest quality equipment may require maintenance. Most often, the need to access internal components arises when replacing compressor, repairing the defrost system, or repairing a refrigerant leak. Unlike some other brands, for models Beko access to technical components often requires careful dismantling of the outer casing.

The process of removing the rear panel is not just a mechanical unscrewing of screws, but an operation that requires an understanding of the structure of the unit. Incorrect actions can lead to damage to the thermal insulation or loss of the tightness of the circuit. That is why it is important to prepare tools in advance and strictly follow the algorithm of actions so as not to turn a minor repair into a major problem.

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the refrigerator is completely disconnected from the power supply. Any manipulation of electrical or live components is strictly prohibited and life-threatening. In addition, it is better to move the unit away from the wall at a sufficient distance to ensure free access from all sides. refrigerant under voltage are strictly prohibited and dangerous to life. In addition, it is better to move the unit away from the wall at a sufficient distance to ensure free access from all sides.

Necessary tools and safety measures

To perform quality dismantling, you will need a minimum set of tools that can be found in the arsenal of any home craftsman. The main tool will be a Phillips screwdriver, since most fasteners in technology Beko have a corresponding slot. You may also need a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry up the plastic plugs.

Safety is the number one priority when working with household appliances. In addition to turning off the power, it is recommended to wear gloves, as the sharp edges of the sheet metal after factory stamping can be quite sharp. If you plan to work with freon, make sure there is good ventilation in the room.

It is important to prepare a container to collect water that may remain in the drainage system or capillary tube after the compressor is turned off. Even a small amount of oil or moisture can damage the floor covering.

  • 🛠️ Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (sizes PH2 and small)
  • 🧤 Protective gloves for working with metal
  • 🔦 Flashlight for illuminating hard-to-reach places
  • 🪣 Container for collecting technical fluid
  • 📸 Smartphone for photographing the connection diagram

⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to remove the plug from the socket. Residual voltage in the control circuits may persist for several minutes after shutdown.

Preparing the refrigerator for dismantling

The first stage of work is to fully prepare the unit. The refrigerator Beko must be completely defrosted if we are talking about models with a drip system or combined defrosting. The presence of ice inside the evaporator may complicate access to the components and lead to water entering the electrical contacts.

Move the device at least one meter away from the wall. This will not only ensure ease of use, but will also prevent accidental damage to the wall or the panel itself when removing it. Remove all products and shelves to reduce the weight of the structure if it needs to tilt.

Carefully inspect the back of the cabinet. In some modifications Beko access to the compressor is through a separate hatch, rather than through a complete removable wall. If this is your case, the process will take much less time.

📊 What problem are you facing?
The compressor does not work
Water is flowing
The refrigerator is noisy
You need to replace the sensor
Other

Step-by-step process for removing the rear panel

The dismantling process begins with searching for fasteners. In refrigerators Beko screws are often located around the perimeter of the back wall, and can also be hidden under decorative plugs or in a niche in the compressor compartment. Carefully inspect the surface so as not to miss a single screw.

After unscrewing all visible bolts, do not try to jerk the panel sharply. It can be sealed with sealant or pressed tightly with a sealant. Carefully go around the perimeter with a flat-head screwdriver, lightly pressing the metal away from the main body.

Pay special attention to the area where the electrical cable and tubes exit. The panel must be removed freely without the use of excessive force. If you feel resistance, check that all the screws are unscrewed, especially those that may be inside the motor niche.

☑️ Algorithm for removing the wall

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It is important to remember the sequence of actions so that no problems arise during assembly. Often the screws have different lengths, and mixing up their installation locations means damaging the threads or breaking through the insulation.

Type of fastening Location Tool Features
Self-tapping screws Wall perimeter Phillips screwdriver Often have a countersunk head
Bolts with nut Bottom part, at compressor Wrench 8-10 mm May be rusty
Plugs Pipe outlets Flat screwdriver Require careful removal
Clips Internal grooves Manual force Brittle at low temperatures

Access to compressor and electrical

After removing the main panel, you will have access to the “heart” of the refrigerator - the compressor and condenser grille. In models Beko the compressor is often closed with an additional casing or cover, which is secured with latches or screws. You only need to remove this cover if you need to replace the unit itself or the starting relay.

The electrical part, including thermostat and the starting relay, is usually located next to the motor. It is highly recommended that you take a photo of the wiring diagram before disconnecting any wires. The colors of the wires in different batches may differ, and relying only on memory is risky.

Danger of damage to the tubes

Copper tubes suitable for the compressor are very thin and soft. If you move carelessly, they can easily be pinched or broken, which will lead to an immediate release of freon and the need for expensive refilling. Work in this area with extreme caution.

If your goal is to replace the sensors located on the rear wall inside the chamber, then after removing the outer panel you will have to carefully peel back the layer of polyurethane foam insulation or remove the inner sheet of metal, if the design allows it. In most cases Beko uses a foamed evaporator, access to which is extremely limited.

⚠️ Attention: Never bend copper tubes at an angle of less than 90 degrees. This will disrupt the circulation of the refrigerant and may cause blockage of the capillary system.

Design nuances of different Beko models

The design of refrigerators Beko can vary significantly depending on the series and year of manufacture. In budget models, the back wall is often part of a common metal box, and its removal requires dismantling the side panels. In more expensive models with a system No Frost access to the nodes can be organized through special technological openings.

Models with a double cooling circuit have a more complex system of tubes on the rear panel. It is important here not to confuse the high and low pressure lines. A connection error after repair will lead to immediate breakdown of the compressor.

It is worth considering that in some modern series the manufacturer uses glued structures or hidden fasteners under a layer of decorative film. In such cases, access may require heating certain areas or using a special adhesive solvent, but this is the exception rather than the rule for mass equipment.

  • 🔍 Series with an open capacitor require caution with the grille
  • ❄️ Models No Frost have additional fans at the back
  • 🔌 The control unit can be placed in the upper part of the rear wall

Assembly and performance testing

Reassembly is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Make sure that all wires are laid in their proper channels and do not fall under the screws or into the fan rotation area. Chaotically lying wires can cause a short circuit or noise during operation.

The panel must fit tightly around the entire perimeter. If there are gaps, check to see if you forgot to install any fastening element or if you mixed up the top and bottom. The tightness of the rear part is important for proper heat transfer and protection of internal components from dust.

After installing the panel and connecting to the network, do not rush to load products. Let the refrigerator Beko run idle for 2-3 hours. This will allow the system to return to operating mode, and you will be able to make sure that there are no extraneous noises, vibrations and leaks.

Is it possible to remove the back wall without turning off the refrigerator?

Absolutely not. Working with live electrical components and metal parts is dangerous. In addition, a running compressor vibrates, which can lead to breakage of the tubes during dismantling.

What to do if the screws are rusty and do not turn?

Use a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40), apply it to the threads and wait 10-15 minutes. Do not use excessive force so as not to tear off the screw head, otherwise it will be extremely difficult to remove it.

Does the seal need to be changed after removing the wall?

If the rubber seal remains elastic and has no cracks, it can be reused. However, to guarantee tightness and quiet operation, it is better to install a new tape.

Why did the refrigerator start to work louder after assembly?

Most likely, you did not fasten the panel well or forgot to install damper pads. Also check if any tube is touching the compressor housing or the back wall.