How to turn on the Atlant refrigerator compressor: diagnostics and startup

The situation when the refrigerator stops freezing, and only a quiet hum or complete silence is heard inside, always takes you by surprise. Most often, the cause is a failure of compressor the heart of the refrigeration system, without which refrigerant circulation is impossible. Owners of equipment Atlant often face the need to check the performance of the motor or temporarily start it for diagnostics in order to understand whether the unit requires complex repairs or whether it is enough to replace an inexpensive element.

Before taking active steps, it is important to understand that forced launch motor is a diagnostic procedure, not a treatment method. If the unit is silent, this may indicate a break in the windings, jamming of the piston group, or failure of the starting electronics. Incorrect connection can lead to a short circuit or complete failure of the unit, so each step must be conscious and safe.

In this article we will analyze the technical nuances of how to properly supply power to the compressor, bypassing the standard control circuits, but maintaining the necessary protective elements. You will learn how to distinguish a dead motor from a faulty thermostat or starting relay, and what tools you will need to carry out a safe test at home.

The operating principle and design of the Atlant electric motor

Compressors installed on refrigerators Atlantare sealed piston-type units operating from a single-phase alternating current network. Inside the black metal casing there is itself electric motorwhich drives the piston group, which pumps pressure into the system. To start the motor and maintain its rotation, two windings are used: starting and working, which have different electrical resistance.

The key element of the circuit is the starting relay, which automatically supplies voltage to the starting winding only at the moment of start. As soon as the rotor reaches the required speed, the relay opens the starting winding circuit, and the engine continues to operate only on the working one. Malfunction of any of these components leads to the fact that the compressor either hums, but does not start, or does not show signs of life at all.

⚠️ Attention: Inside the compressor housing there is freon under pressure and oil. It is strictly forbidden to open the sealed casing, solder tubes without evacuating the system, or heat the housing with an open fire. This may lead to an explosion or fire.

For correct diagnosis, you need to know the location of the terminals on the motor terminal block. Usually there are three of them: a common wire, a working winding terminal and a starting winding terminal. Models Atlant often use compressors of their own production or analogues from Danfoss and Secop, the connection diagrams of which may differ slightly in the arrangement of contacts.

How do Atlant compressors differ from other brands?

Atlant compressors often have a specific housing shape and tube arrangement, but the electrical circuit for connecting the windings is standard for single-phase asynchronous motors. The main difference may be the type of refrigerant used (R134a or R600a), which affects the requirements for tightness, but not the start-up electrics.

Required tools and safety precautions

Before touching electrical components, it is necessary to ensure complete safety of the work. Working with a voltage of 220 Volts requires caution, and the presence of refrigerant in the system imposes additional restrictions. You will need a set of tools that will allow you not only to connect the motor, but also to carry out an initial diagnosis of its condition.

• 🔌 Power cord with a plug and a breaker button for safe voltage supply.
• 🛠️ A set of screwdrivers and pliers for dismantling the protective casing and removing the terminals.
• 📏 Multimeter for testing windings and checking resistance.
• 🧤 Dielectric gloves for protection against electric shock when accidentally touching live parts.

The first step should always be to completely disconnect the refrigerator from the network. It is not enough to simply turn it off with a button; you need to unplug it from the socket. Only after this can you remove the back cover at the bottom of the refrigerator, where the compressor compartment is located. Allow the unit to cool down if it has been running before, as metal parts may be hot.

When working with electrical wiring, make sure your hands are dry and there are no puddles of water or condensation under your feet. If you plan to leave the compressor turned on outside the refrigerator body for testing, secure it in a stable position so that vibration does not cause the unit to fall or pipes to hit metal objects.

Diagnostics before forced start

Before applying power directly, it is necessary to eliminate the simplest causes of the malfunction. It often happens that it is compressor functional, but does not receive a signal to start due to a breakdown of the thermostat or control unit. In this case, a direct connection will not provide new knowledge, but will only confirm that the motor is spinning if it is working properly.

Start with a visual inspection. Check for melted wires, blackened insulation, or burn marks on the start relay. If the relay has a transparent plastic case, look inside: the contacts should not be covered with black soot, and the movable core should move freely. Any mechanical damage indicates the need to replace the element.

Next, you need to check the integrity of the motor windings using a multimeter. Switch the device to resistance measurement mode (Ohm) and ring the terminals on the contact strip of the compressor. It is normal to have resistance between any of the side contacts and the top (common) contact. If the device shows infinity (open circuit) or zero (short circuit), then the engine is most likely faulty.

It is also important to check whether the engine is “punching” into the housing. Press one multimeter probe to any contact of the block, and the other to the stripped metal part of the compressor housing or copper tube. The device should show infinity. If there is at least some resistance, it means that the insulation of the windings is broken, and the operation of such a unit is deadly.

Connection diagram and procedure

If the diagnostics showed that the windings are intact and there is no breakdown on the housing, you can proceed to the direct start procedure. To do this, you will need a wiring diagram, which is usually drawn on the start relay itself or on a sticker inside the refrigerator. In most cases, there are three contacts on the block: common (C), starting (S) and working (R).

Prepare a piece of wire with a plug. Strip the ends of the wires. You will connect one wire (for example, a phase) to the common contact, and the second wire - alternately to the starting and working ones, depending on the circuit. However, for safe starting through a standard relay, the circuit remains standard: the phase is supplied to the relay input, and zero is supplied to the common motor contact.

The most reliable way to check is to use a working starting relay. Remove the old relay from the compressor, noting its position (the "UP" or "TOP" arrow should point up). Connect the power wires to the relay terminals according to the markings, and place the relay itself on the compressor contacts. Plug the plug into the outlet. If the compressor starts and begins to hum evenly, then the problem was in the relay or control circuits of the refrigerator.

⚠️ Attention: If, when connected, the compressor makes a loud beep, but does not start within 3-5 seconds, immediately turn off the power! A long hum without rotation of the rotor burns out the windings in a matter of minutes.

Analysis of operation and possible malfunctions

After a successful start, it is necessary to evaluate the nature of the engine’s operation. A working compressor operates rhythmically, with moderate noise. A characteristic gurgling sound of refrigerant may be heard from the lower part of the housing (where the oil is located), which is normal. After 10-15 minutes of operation, the tubes leaving the compressor should begin to heat up, and coldness should appear in the evaporator (inside the refrigerator).

If the engine starts, but operates with strong vibration, knocking or metallic clanging, this indicates mechanical wear of the piston group or looseness of the internal suspensions. Such a unit can only be operated temporarily, since vibration can destroy the soldering of the tubes and lead to freon leakage.

In the case when the compressor does not start even with a direct connection through a working relay, but at the same time consumes current and hums, there is a high probability of the mechanical part jamming. Sometimes a short-term application of increased voltage or pulse helps, but at home such methods are dangerous and often lead to permanent breakdown. If the motor is silent and does not hum, but does not consume current, there is a break in the internal wiring or thermal protection.

Frequent errors when independently repair

One of the most common mistakes is trying to start the compressor without a start relay, simply closing the contacts with a screwdriver. This can result in sparking, burnt contacts and, in worst cases, electric shock. The starting relay is necessary to create a phase shift and short-term connection of the starting winding; without this, the engine will not gain speed.

Another mistake is ignoring the state of the capacitor (if it is provided for in the circuit). Some models Atlant use a starting capacitor, which helps the motor start under load. If it is swollen or has lost capacity, the compressor will hum but will not start, which may be mistaken for a motor wedge.

Also, do not forget about the thermal protection relay. It is installed to prevent engine overheating. If you tried to start the unit repeatedly, the relay could get hot and open the circuit. Allow it to cool for 15-20 minutes before trying again, otherwise you will be looking for a non-existent breakdown.

• 🚫 Do not leave running the compressor unattended for more than 5 minutes during the first test.
• 🚫 Do not touch heated metal parts and tubes with your hands to avoid burns.
• 🚫 Do not try repair the sealed casing if you do not have the skills to work with refrigeration equipment.

Is it possible to use a compressor from an old refrigerator for other purposes?

Yes, compressors Atlant are often used to create homemade compressors for airbrushing, inflating tires or pneumatic tools. However, it must be taken into account that they are not designed for long-term operation without cooling by the body of the refrigerator itself and require the installation of a receiver and a moisture-oil separator filter.

Why is the compressor hot, but the refrigerator does not freeze?

This indicates that the engine is running, but there is no freon circulation. Reasons: gas leak, clogged capillary tube or breakdown of the compressor itself (does not create pressure). In this case, starting the motor will not solve the cooling problem.

How to determine whether the compressor or just the relay has burned out?

Test the windings with a multimeter. If the resistance is normal, but when voltage is applied through the new relay, the motor does not start and hums, the motor is probably jammed. If the motor starts through a direct connection, but does not start through the standard circuit, the relay or thermostat is to blame.

Is it dangerous to check the compressor in a living room?

Yes, this can be dangerous due to a possible freon leak (although modern refrigerants are not toxic in small doses, they displace oxygen) and high noise levels. In addition, the compressor requires good ventilation for cooling. It is better to carry out diagnostics in the garage or on the balcony.

What to do if the plugs come out after starting?

This is a sign of a short circuit in the motor windings or in the supply cable. Restarts are prohibited. The compressor needs to be replaced or the motor must be professionally rewinded, which is practically impractical at home.