Refrigerator compressor: what it looks like, where it is located and how to recognize it

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, on which its performance depends. But what does this key element look like? Many users imagine it as a complex electronic device with blinking lights, although in reality it more closely resembles a metal cylinder with tubes. If you have never looked under the back wall of the refrigerator, then the appearance of the compressor may seem unexpected.

In this article we will look at what the compressor looks like in different models of refrigerators (from Indesit to Samsung), where to look for it, and by what visual signs you can identify a malfunction. You will also learn why some compressors are “hidden” under the casing, while others are open, and how this affects the maintainability of the equipment.

⚠️ Attention: If you plan to inspect the compressor yourself, first unplug the refrigerator and wait until the condenser has completely cooled (at least 30 minutes). Touching hot parts or live contacts may result in burns or electric shock.

1. Appearance of the compressor: main elements

The classic refrigerator compressor is a sealed metal case of a cylindrical or oval shape, usually black or gray. Its size varies from 15×10×10 cm (in compact models) to 25×15×15 cm (in large two-chamber refrigerators). Three tubes approach the body:

• 🔹 Suction tube (thicker than the others) - through it the refrigerant comes from the evaporator.
• 🔹 Discharge tube (thinner) - removes compressed gas to the condenser.
• 🔹 Process tube (the thinnest, often sealed) - used for refilling with freon.

On the top or side parts of the housing are located:

• 🔌 Electrical connector with 2–4 contacts for connecting to the start relay.
• 🛠️ Mounting paws (3–4 pieces) - absorb vibration during operation.
• 📏 Marking plate with the compressor model (for example, Embraco EGX 90HLC or Secop (Danfoss) NL10MZ).

Modern inverter compressors (installed in refrigerators LG, Samsung, Bosch) may have a plastic casing to reduce noise. Outwardly, they resemble a box with ventilation grilles, but inside there is still the same metal block.

2. Where is the compressor located in the refrigerator?

In 95% of models, the compressor is located in the lower part of the back wall. data-i="81">(for example,, under a plastic or metal cover. Exceptions:

• 🏠 Built-in refrigerators (For example, Liebherr) - the compressor can be hidden in a niche under the freezer.
• 🔄 Models with system No Frost - sometimes the compressor is shifted closer to the center for optimal distribution of the refrigerant.
• 📦 Portable refrigerators (for example, Dometic) - the compressor is located on the side to save space.

To find the compressor:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Move it away from the wall (minimum distance - 30 cm).
3. Remove the bottom protective panel (usually secured with latches or screws).
4. The compressor will be screwed to the frame - it is easy to recognize by its characteristic shape and tubes.

⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with a Total No Frost system (for example, Samsung RB37J5230SA), the compressor can be closed with an additional heat-insulating screen. Do not confuse it with a condenser (a grid of tubes) - the compressor always has a sealed housing!

3. Types of compressors: how to distinguish by appearance

The appearance of the compressor depends on its type. Below is a comparative table with key visual features:

Inverter compressors are often confused with start relay a small box attached to the main unit. The relay is responsible for starting the motor, and the compressor itself is always sealed and sealed. has tubes.

4 What a faulty compressor looks like: visual signs.

Some compressor breakdowns can be determined without disassembling the refrigeratorby simply examining its appearance:

• 🔥 Blackening or melting of the housing -a sign of overheating due to inter-turn short circuit of the windings.
• 💧 Oil puddles under the compressor —oil leakage through cracks in the housing (critical malfunction).
• 🔧 Broken fastening feet —the compressor “walks” during operation, which leads to broken tubes.
• ⚡ Oxidation of connector contacts —corrosion due to moisture or short circuit.
• 🧊 Frost on the discharge tube —violation of the cooling cycle (the capillary tube may be clogged).

Critical sign: if the compressor is hot to the touch (more than 90°C) and does not turn off for more than 2 hours, this indicates a jammed piston or a freon leak. In this case, further operation of the refrigerator is dangerous!

⚠️ Attention: If on the compressor housing appeared swellings or cracks, it cannot be turned on! This is a sign of depressurization, and during startup the refrigerant may escape under pressure.

What to do if the compressor does not start?

Check the voltage in the socket, inspect the start relay for cracks, listen to clicks (if the relay tries to start the motor, but is unsuccessful).

5. Photos of compressors of popular brands

The appearance of the compressor may differ slightly depending on the manufacturer of the refrigerator Below is a brief description with visuals. features:

• 📷 Indesit/Ariston —standard piston compressor Embraco or ACC with a black housing and a label on the side wall.
• 📷 Samsung —inverter models Digital Inverter in a plastic casing with ventilation holes.
• 📷 LG — compressors Linear Compressor with an elongated housing and minimal vibration.
• 📷 Atlant —domestic-made piston compressors (often with a white marking plate).
• 📷 Liebherr —scroll compressors Copeland with a compact flat body.

In the photo below (conditional description, since real images are not attached here) the compressor Samsung is easy to recognize by:

• Silver plastic casing with perforations.
• The absence of visible tubes (they are hidden inside the casing).
• Inscriptions Digital Inverter Compressor on the sticker.

⚠️ Attention: If you are looking for photographs of the compressor for a specific refrigerator model, check its brand in the documentation or on the nameplate (usually located on the inner wall of the chamber). The name of the compressor may differ even for refrigerators of the same brand!

6. Is it possible to replace the compressor yourself?

Theoretically yes, but in practice this requires:

1. Special equipment for evacuating the system (to remove moisture before charging freon).
2. Skills soldering with copper-phosphorus solder (for connecting tubes).
3. Knowledge type of refrigerant (for example, R134a or R600a) and its dosage.

Without experience, there is a great risk:

• 🔥 Compressor overheating due to improper soldering.
• 💨 Freon leaks (dangerous to health!).
• ⚡ Short circuit when the relay is connected incorrectly.

If you still decide to replace, follow the algorithm:

1. Drain the freon through the process tube.
2. Unsolder the old one compressor without damaging the capillary tube.
3. Install a new compressor (the model must match the power and type of refrigerant!).
4. Evacuate the system for at least 30 minutes.
5. Fill with freon taking into account the weight indicated on the nameplate refrigerator.

7. Frequently asked questions about refrigerator compressors

Why is the compressor hot, but the refrigerator does not freeze?

This is a typical symptom freon leaks or clogged capillary tube. The compressor runs “idle”, pumping gas that does not circulate through the system. Another option is a malfunction thermostat (it does not give a signal to shut down).

🔧 What to do: Check if it is blowing condenser fan (if equipped). If the compressor is hot but quiet, the winding is most likely burned out.

How to check the compressor with a multimeter?

Turn off the refrigerator, remove the start relay and measure the resistance between the contacts of the compressor:

• 🔌 Open (∞) —the winding is burned out.
• 🔌 Zero (0) —interturn short circuit.
• 🔌 20–50 Ohm —the norm for the working winding.

⚠️ Important: Before checking, discharge the relay capacitor by closing its contacts with a screwdriver (to avoid electric shock).

Why did the new compressor quickly break down?

Frequent reasons:

• 🔄 Poor vacuumization before refueling (moisture remains in the system).
• ⚡ Incorrect voltage (the compressor is designed for 220 V, and there are surges in the network).
• 🛠️ Overheating due to a dirty condenser (dust interferes with heat transfer).
• 💧 Incompatible refrigerant (for example, charged R134a instead R600a).

Is it possible to turn on the refrigerator without the back cover?

🚫 No! The absence of a cover disrupts the air circulation around the compressor and condenser, which leads to:

• 🔥 Overheating of the motor (risk of jamming).
• ⚡ Increased energy consumption (by 15–20%).
• 🛡️ Loss of warranty (if the refrigerator is under maintenance).

Exception - short-term diagnostics (no longer than 10 minutes).

Which compressor is better: inverter or normal?

Comparison by key parameters:

Criterion	Inverter	Normal (linear)
Noise	25–35 dB	40–50 dB
Energy consumption	20–30% lower	Higher (sharp starts)
Service life	10–15 years	7–10 years
Repair price	More expensive (complex electronics)	Cheaper (simple design)

💡 Conclusion: An inverter compressor is more profitable in the long term, but a conventional one is easier and cheaper to repair.