The appearance of the start relay in brand refrigerators Biryusa directly depends on the year of manufacture of your unit and the model of the installed compressor. Old Soviet models, which still work well in many homes, were equipped with massive electromechanical devices, often in a metal or heavy plastic case. Modern modifications, released after the 2000s, are equipped with more compact and lightweight elements made of heat-resistant plastic. Understanding this difference is critical for the correct selection of spare parts, since visually they can differ radically from each other.
The main task of this component is to start the compressor engine and protect it from overloads, so its design is always focused on reliable contact with the motor windings. If you are planning on self-diagnosis or replacement, you need to know exactly what type trigger mechanism is installed in your system. An error in identification can lead to the fact that the new part simply does not fit into the seat or does not match the electrical characteristics. In this article we will analyze in detail all the design options so that you can accurately determine the required element.
It is also worth considering that in different series Biryusa compressors from different manufacturing plants could be used, such as Atlant, Donbass or Guanxing. This means that even within the same brand, the appearance of the relay can vary. For example, older models often had relays with gold-plated contacts inside the housing, while newer versions use silver plating or other alloys. Visual inspection is the first and most important stage of repair, which allows you to weed out unsuitable options even before purchase.
Main types of relays in the Biryusa technique
Historically, in refrigerators Biryusa several main series of starting devices were used, each of which has its own design features. The most common option for equipment of the Soviet period and the early 90s is the series RT. These devices are distinguished by the presence of a metal casing or a heavy carbolite body, which serves not only as protection, but also as a screen from interference. Inside such a housing there is a coil, a movable core and a contact group that operates on the principle of an electromagnetic switch.
With the development of technology and the advent of more energy-efficient compressors, the design of the relay has also undergone changes. Models of the R-1 and R-2series, which already had a completely plastic body in black or gray, began to be widely used. They have become more compact and lighter, making installation on the compressor easier. Such models often implement combined protection, where the starting and thermal functions are combined in one unit, although visually they may look like a single whole.
Modern modifications that are installed on refrigerators of recent years of production deserve special attention. Here you can find relays labeled PTC (posistor), which do not have moving mechanical parts in the classical sense, but use a ceramic element to break the circuit. Externally, they often look like a small plastic barrel with three contacts that is inserted directly into the compressor connector. You can determine the type of your device not only by the markings, but also by the weight and material of the case.
- 🔌 RTK-X —a classic relay with a copper case, typical of the old Biryusa 6, 8, 9 models.
- 🔌 R-1 —a plastic case, often found in conjunction with a thermal relay, installed for Atlant compressors.
- 🔌 R-2 —a more modern version with improved spark extinguishing characteristics and a compact design.
- 🔌 PTC relay —a solid-state version without mechanical contacts, characterized by quiet operation.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to replace a RT series relay with an analogue P-1 or PTC without checking the compressor connection diagram. Differences in operation currents can lead to burnout of the motor windings or permanent tripping of the circuit breaker in the apartment.
Each type of relay has its own dismantling and installation features that must be taken into account during repairs. For example, old metal relays were attached using special brackets or screws, while new plastic ones often simply snap onto the compressor terminals. Understanding what type your unit is will help you quickly find the right spare part in the store and avoid wasting time.
Appearance of RT series relays
Series relays RT (for example, RTK-X, RTK-1-3) are one of the most recognizable elements in the old refrigerators. Their body is often made of copper or brass, which gives the product a characteristic yellowish or reddish metallic sheen, although there are also models in black carbolite. The weight of such a relay is significant for its size, since inside there is a massive electromagnetic mechanism and a heavy contact group. The housing is usually stamped with markings indicating the operating current and the type of compatible compressor.
Structurally, the device is a vertical cylinder or parallelepiped with protruding contacts. There is a hole at the bottom for putting on the compressor terminals, and on the side there may be additional terminals for connecting a thermal relay or capacitor. Inside the housing there is a movable rod with contacts, which, under the influence of the magnetic field of the coil, closes the starting winding. After the engine starts, the current drops, the rod lowers under the influence of gravity or a spring, opening the circuit.
When visually inspecting such a relay, you should pay attention to the condition of the contacts and the integrity of the housing. The metal casing should not have strong dents that could block the movement of the rod inside. If you see soot peeking out of the housing openings or smell a burning smell, this is a sure sign that contact group it is burnt and requires replacement. The internal structure of such relays is quite simple, but requires precise position adjustment for correct operation.
Internal structure RT
Inside the metal case there is a coil with a winding, put on a core. When current is applied, the core retracts and raises the movable contact, closing the starting winding circuit. After the motor accelerates, the current drops, the core drops under its own weight, opening the circuit. It is important that the relay stands strictly vertically, otherwise the mechanism may jam.
When diagnosing, special attention should be paid to the mobility of the internal elements. If you shake the relay, you should not hear the ringing of parts coming off inside, but there should not be complete silence - the mechanism should have a slight backlash. A stuck stem is a common cause of a refrigerator humming but not starting. In such cases, sometimes cleaning the contacts helps, but most often a complete replacement of the unit with a modern analogue or original is required.
Features of the relay series R-1 and R-2
Relays of the series R-1 and R-2 represent the next stage in the evolution of starting automation and were widely used in refrigerators Biryusa transition period. Externally, they differ from their predecessors in the presence of a plastic body, usually black, which is less susceptible to corrosion and lighter in weight. The body shape has become more streamlined and compact, allowing for more efficient use of engine compartment space. The front part is often marked with the rated current and voltage.
Inside the plastic case there is also an electromagnetic mechanism, but it is made more miniature. The contacts on these models are often coated with a silver-containing alloy to improve conductivity and reduce sparking. The design provides for rigid fixation on the compressor terminals, which eliminates spontaneous jumping off during vibration. The thermal relay in such systems is often paired, located next to or combined into a single unit with the starting one.
An important feature of the relay R-2 is the presence of an arc extinguishing system, which increases the service life of the contacts. Upon visual inspection, you will notice that the contacts here are located more tightly, and the mechanism itself is distinguished by high assembly accuracy. If you are planning a replacement, make sure that the Orientation of the new relay matches the one installed in the refrigerator, as some models require a strictly vertical or horizontal position for the gravity trip mechanism to work correctly.
The plastic housing of these relays can become brittle over time due to constant heating and cooling. When dismantling the old element, act carefully so as not to crumble the plastic or drop crumbs inside the contacts of the new relay. Also check the condition of the spring contacts on the relay itself - they should fit tightly around the compressor pins, ensuring reliable electrical contact without backlash.
Modern posistor relays (PTC)
In the most modern models of refrigerators Biryusa, as well as in appliances with inverter or highly efficient compressors, posistor relays are often used, known as PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient). Externally, they are radically different from their electromechanical counterparts: they are a small plastic cylinder or parallelepiped, inside of which there are no moving parts. The principle of their operation is based on the property of ceramic material to sharply increase its resistance when heated, which actually breaks the starting winding circuit.
The absence of mechanical contacts makes the PTC relay an almost silent and very reliable element that is not afraid of vibration. However, they have one peculiarity: after each compressor shutdown, they require time (usually several minutes) to cool down before allowing current to flow again. If you see PTC markings and a resistance value (for example, 15 Ohms or 22 Ohms) on the case, then this is the type of device you are looking at. They often come complete with a capacitor in a single plastic casing.
Diagnostics of such a relay is simple: in a cold state it should show a certain resistance (indicated on the case), and when heated it should break. Visually, there should be no cracks, chips or signs of overheating on the case. If the posistor crumbles inside the housing, the relay will stop starting the compressor. Replacing such elements requires precise selection of resistance, since installing PTC with other parameters can lead to the engine not starting or humming.
- 🔥 Principle of operation: heating the ceramic element with current leads to a break in the circuit.
- 🔥 Lack of mechanics: there are no rubbing parts, which eliminates wear from friction.
- 🔥 Recovery time: a pause is required to cool down before restarting.
- 🔥 Marking: always contains the resistance value in Ohms.
It is worth noting that PTC relays are very sensitive to shock. During transportation or careless handling, the ceramic element inside may crack, which will lead to failure of the entire assembly. Therefore, when purchasing a new relay in a store, it is advisable to inspect it for the integrity of the housing. It is also not recommended to test the functionality of the PTC relay by applying voltage outside the refrigerator without load, as this can lead to its overheating and destruction.
Marking and identification of the part
Correct identification of the relay is impossible without the ability to read the markings on the product body. On older models PT designations could be stamped directly onto the metal, and over time they became difficult to read due to oxidation. On newer plastic cases, markings are applied with paint or laser and contain information about the type (RT, R-1, R-2), rated current and voltage. For example, the inscription "1/4 HP" indicates the power of the compressor for which the relay is intended.
Particular attention should be paid to the digital code, which often indicates the operation current. For relays Biryusa these can be values in the range from 1.0 to 2.5 Amperes. If you replace a 1.3A relay with a 2.0A relay, the compressor may not start because there is not enough current to retract the core. Conversely, if you install a relay with a lower current, it may not open the circuit, which will lead to burnout of the starting winding.
Also on the case the following pins may be marked: S (Start) - starting winding, R (Run) - working winding, C (Common) - common wire. Some models use numbers or color-coded wires instead of letters. Before disconnecting the old relay, it is strongly recommended to take a photo of the connection diagram or mark the wires with a marker so that when installing a new one you do not mix up the phasing.
Compatibility and characteristics table
To simplify the task of selecting a spare part, below is a table comparing popular relay models with the characteristics of refrigerator compressors Biryusa. This information will help you navigate the variety of options and choose a suitable analogue if the original cannot be found. Remember that compatibility is determined not only by physical dimensions, but also by electrical parameters.
| Relay type | Compressor model | Rated current (A) | Case features |
|---|---|---|---|
| RTK-X | HK, KhKD (USSR) | 1.3 - 1.6 | Metal, heavy |
| R-1 | Atlant, Donbass | 1.1 - 1.4 | Plastic, black |
| R-2 | Atlant (new) | 1.2 - 1.5 | Plastic, compact |
| PTC | Guanxing, Embraco | Depends on Ohm | Ceramics in plastic |
Using the table allows you to quickly eliminate unsuitable options. For example, if you have a compressor Atlantthen the relay RTK-X most likely will not suit you without altering the mounting, although electrically they may be close. Conversely, on an old compressor HC you can try to install a modern relay with a similar current, if you ensure reliable fastening and a vertical position.
⚠️ Attention: The data in the table is for reference only. Refrigerator manufacturers may make changes to specifications without notice. Always check the markings on the body of your old relay with the markings of the new part before installation.
Fault diagnosis and replacement
Having understood what the relay looks like and knowing its type, you can begin diagnostics. The easiest way to check is visual inspection and “listening”. If when you turn on the refrigerator there is a click, then a hum, and after a few seconds the click and shutdown again, this is a classic sign of a faulty start relay or a stuck compressor. If the relay RT or P-1 when shaken makes a ringing sound like a rattle, it means that the internal mechanism is damaged and requires replacement.
To replace the relay, it is necessary to de-energize refrigerator, remove the rear cover of the engine compartment and disconnect the wires. The old relay is removed from the compressor pins by gently shaking it. The new one is installed in the same position as the old one (usually the arrow UP or TOP should face up). After installation, check the reliability of the contacts and reassemble the structure in the reverse order.
☑️ Checklist for replacing the relay
After replacing and turning on the refrigerator, pay attention to the operation of the motor. It should start with a characteristic sound and run smoothly, without buzzing or vibration. If after 10-15 minutes of operation the relay body does not heat up to a burning state (light heating is acceptable), then the replacement was successful. Otherwise, you should re-check the connection diagram and compliance of the current characteristics.
Can I use a relay from another refrigerator on Biryusa?
Using relays from other brands is possible, but only if the electrical parameters (current) are completely identical actuation, voltage) and geometric dimensions of the seat. Relays from refrigerators Atlant, Zil or Saratovare often suitable if their characteristics are identical. However, a guarantee of correct operation is provided only by the installation of an original spare part or a certified analogue.
Why does the relay constantly click, but the refrigerator does not freeze?
Continuous clicking (cycling) indicates that the relay is trying to start the compressor, but the protection immediately turns it off. The reasons may be in the relay itself (sticky contacts or broken capacitor), a malfunction of the compressor (interturn short circuit or jamming) or low voltage in the network.
Where is the current marking on the relay?
Current marking is usually applied to the side or top edge of the relay body. On metal RT models it can be embossed on the lid, on plastic R-1/R-2 it can be printed in black paint. Look for numbers like 1.2, 1.4, 1.6 - this is the rated current in Amperes.
How can you tell if the relay or compressor has burned out?
If, when turned on, the relay makes a loud click, but the compressor is silent, the relay is most likely burned out or there is no contact. If you hear a hum, which after 5-10 seconds is replaced by a shutdown click, it could be a relay or another compressor. An accurate diagnosis is made after testing the motor windings and checking the resistance of the relay itself.