Replacing or dismantling a compressor is one of the most difficult procedures in servicing household appliances, requiring not only physical effort, but also a deep understanding of the structure of the refrigeration unit. Motor-compressor It is the heart of the system, and its removal is often necessary when completely replacing a unit or overhauling the cooling system. Errors at this stage can lead to irreversible damage to the tubes or a violation of the tightness of the circuit, so the approach should be as balanced as possible.
Before proceeding with physical dismantling, it is necessary to clearly understand that simply “unscrewing” it will not work due to the presence of copper lines. In most cases, cutting of the tubes and subsequent soldering are required, which turns the process into a full-fledged repair operation, and not just a mechanical disconnection. RefrigerantThe refrigerant located inside the system must be vented in accordance with environmental standards, although in domestic conditions this is often ignored, which is a violation.
You will need to prepare a workplace with good lighting and ventilation, since work may be accompanied by specific odors and the use of open flames for soldering. Safety —priority number one, because we are talking about electricity, metal under pressure and potentially dangerous gases. Let's look in detail at each stage of preparation and the extraction process itself.
Necessary tools and workplace preparation
High-quality preparation of tools directly affects the speed and safety of the work performed. For dismantling, you will need not only a standard set of screwdrivers, but also specialized equipment for working with copper tubes. The absence of the necessary tool can lead to deformation of the fittings or damage to the motor housing.
The basic list of what should be on hand includes:
- 🔧 A set of wrenches and ratchets for unscrewing the frame mounting bolts.
- ✂️ Pipe cutter or high-quality side cutters for metal to carefully cut copper lines.
- 🔥 Blowtorch or torch with solder (if you plan to subsequently install a new unit).
- 🧤 Protective gloves and glasses to prevent injury from sharp metal edges.
It is important to make sure that pipe cutter is sharpened, since a blunt tool will crush soft copper instead of a clean cut, which will create problems when installing new equipment. It would also be a good idea to have a container on hand to collect possible oil that may leak from the old compressor when tilted.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network. Working with electrical wiring and live metal parts is deadly!
Access to the motor-compressor and removal of the protective casing
In modern refrigerator models, such as Indesit, Atlant or Beko, the compressor is located in the lower rear part of the housing. To access it, you often do not need to disassemble the entire refrigerator; just turn it over or tilt it on its side, placing a soft cloth under the bottom. However, in some built-in models, access may be complicated by the presence of decorative panels.
The first step is always to remove the protective metal casing that covers the electrical part and the start relay. It is usually secured with several bolts or snaps. Carefully unscrew the fasteners, trying not to lose the washers, and remove the cover, gaining access to start relay and the capacitor.
Sometimes the casing can be welded or glued with sealant, which is found in old Soviet models. In this case, you will have to carefully cut it off with metal scissors so as not to damage the internal components. After removing the cover, you will have a view of the black cylindrical or pear-shaped tank of the compressor itself with tubes and electrical wires suitable for it.
Disconnecting the electrical part and removing the relay
Before touching the copper tubes, you must completely free the electrical part. At the end of the compressor there are three contacts, which are equipped with a starting relay and a protective thermal relay. These elements are interconnected and fit to the wiring of the refrigerator through the terminal block.
Procedure for disconnecting:
- 🔌 Take a photo of the wiring diagram so that when installing a new unit you do not confuse phase and zero.
- 🛑 Carefully remove the plastic box relay block from the contact group of the compressor.
- ✂️ Disconnect the wires coming from the relay to the general network of the refrigerator by cutting them or unscrewing the terminal screws.
- 🧪 Check the integrity of the wires for melting or insulation cracks.
Often the relay is simple is put on the contacts of the rod compressor and is held in place due to a tight fit. By rocking it from side to side, you can remove the block. Be careful, inside the plastic relay case there is a ceramic or plastic element that can crumble from old age if you act too roughly. Capacitorif it is taken out separately, it must also be disconnected from the circuit.
Disconnecting the copper lines of the refrigeration circuit
This is the most critical stage, requiring maximum care. There are two main copper tubes leading to the compressor: one high pressure (discharge, usually thin and hot when running) and one low pressure (suction, thicker and colder). The third tube is a capillary, which in older models can be welded directly into the housing, but in most modern units it fits into the filter drier.
To remove the compressor, the tubes must be cut. This should be done at a distance of 10-15 cm from the entry point into the motor housing. Such a reserve is necessary so that in the future, when installing a new compressor, it is possible to properly solder the connection without heating the motor housing itself, which could lead to burnout of the varnish insulation of the windings.
Use a pipe cutter for a clean cut. If there is no pipe cutter, you can use a hacksaw with a fine tooth, but make sure that the chips do not get inside the tubes. Washed should be smooth, without burrs. After cutting the tubes, residual pressure will leave the system, a hissing may be heard - this is normal.
In some cases, especially in old refrigerators ZIL or Saratov, the tubes can be welded to the compressor housing without visible fittings. This requires working with a gas torch to anneal the welding site, after which the tube is carefully moved to the side. Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking off the tube at the very base, as it will be extremely difficult to restore the fitting.
| Pipe type | Location | Diameter (approximate) | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Suction | Side or top | 6-8 mm | Thicker, often thickened (muffler) |
| Discharge | Side | 5-6 mm | Thin, gets very hot during operation |
| Filling | Side/back | 3-4 mm | Soldered from the factory, used for vacuuming |
⚠️ Attention: Never cut the tubes with side cutters, as this will flatten the copper and close the gap. The tube needs to be cut or sawed.
What to do if the tube breaks off at the housing?
If the tube breaks off at the very base of the compressor, it is extremely difficult to restore it. In some cases, craftsmen drill out the remains, but more often the entire compressor needs to be replaced, since the tightness is critically compromised, and soldering in this place is impossible without the risk of burning through the housing.
Dismantling fasteners and removing the unit
The compressor is attached to the metal frame of the refrigerator, usually on four shock-absorbing bushings. These bushings are made of rubber and serve to dampen vibrations. Over time, the rubber may dry out, crack, or, conversely, become stiff, which will complicate removal.
The fasteners are bolts passing through the frame and screwed into the studs on the compressor housing, or nuts screwed onto the studs from above. There are designs where the compressor is simply inserted into rubber cushions and secured with a bracket. In any case, the algorithm of actions is similar:
- With one hand, hold the compressor housing so that it does not fall after unscrewing the fasteners.
- With the other hand, unscrew the nuts or bolts with a wrench of the appropriate size (most often 10 or 12 mm).
- If the nuts stuck, use a penetrating lubricant (for example, WD-40) and let it work for 10-15 minutes.
- Carefully lift the compressor, removing its studs from the rubber bushings.
When removing, be prepared for the fact that a small amount may leak from the cut tubes compressor oil. It is dark and has a specific smell. Place a rag or container. The weight of the compressor is from 8 to 12 kg, so calculate your strength so as not to drop the unit on your foot.
☑️ Algorithm for removing fasteners
Typical difficulties and precautions
During the dismantling process, you may encounter a number of problems that are not described in the ideal instructions. Rust is the master's main enemy. The bolts located at the bottom of the refrigerator are often susceptible to corrosion due to condensation and moisture. If the bolt does not budge, do not use excessive force to avoid stripping the threads or breaking the stud on the compressor housing.
Another difficulty is limited space. In some refrigerator models Samsung or LG the layout is so tight that there is a gap of several millimeters between the compressor and the wall of the housing. In such cases, it may be necessary to partially dismantle the condenser grille (coil) at the back of the refrigerator to gain access to the fasteners.
It is also worth remembering residual oil. Old compressors can contain up to 300-400 grams of oil inside. If tilted incorrectly (more than 45 degrees), it may flow into the circulation circuit, which is strictly prohibited. If you plan to reuse an old compressor (for example, for a compressor station), it must be transported strictly vertically.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the tubes are soldered to the body compressor (found in sealed units from some manufacturers), their dismantling without damaging the housing is impossible. In such cases, the entire unit assembly is replaced.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to remove the compressor without cutting the copper tubes?
Almost not. The tubes are soldered into the compressor housing and seal the system. The only way to disconnect them is to cut them or unsolder them. attempts to break or unscrew them will lead to destruction of the fittings and the impossibility of further operation of the unit.
Is it necessary to drain the oil from the compressor before removal?
It is not recommended to specifically drain the oil through the holes made, since moisture and dirt can get inside. The oil will flow out on its own when the pipes are cut or tilted. If the compressor is being disposed of, this does not matter; if it is being restored, it is better to preserve the integrity of the internal environment until opening.
Is it dangerous to breathe vapors from refrigerator tubes?
Modern refrigerants (freons) in low concentrations are not toxic, but they displace oxygen. Older refrigerators may use ammonia, which is toxic and has a strong odor. You should work in a well-ventilated area, avoiding inhaling gases directly from the tubes.
What to do with the cut ends of the tubes?
If you are planning to install a new compressor, the ends of the tubes must be immediately plugged (for example, clamped with pliers or plugged with special plugs) to prevent moisture and dust from getting inside. Moisture in the cooling system is the main reason for the formation of ice jams and the failure of a new compressor.
Can a removed compressor be used for other purposes?
Yes, old serviceable compressors are often used to create compressor stations for airbrushing, inflating tires or pneumatic tools. However, for this they need to be re-equipped: install a receiver, a moisture separator and a pressure switch, since the standard automatic equipment of the refrigerator is not suitable for this.