The situation when refrigeration unit stops working, often leaving the owner with a choice: call a technician or try to fix the problem yourself. If you have made a firm decision to dismantle compressor, you will have to work with high pressures and flammable substances. This is not just replacing a light bulb, it requires an understanding of the physical processes and adherence to strict safety measures.
Before picking up tools, you need to be aware of what is inside the system refrigerant under pressure, which can become dangerous when in contact with air. In addition, freon is dissolved in the oil circulating through the system, which can ignite when heated. That is why the process dismantling requires preliminary preparation of the workplace and the presence of specific equipment.
In this article we will analyze in detail each stage of extraction motor-compressor from the housing of a household refrigerator. We will discuss the necessary tools, safety precautions and a sequence of actions that will avoid injury and damage to neighboring units of the unit. Remember that proper preparation takes more time than the removal process itself.
Necessary tools and safety measures
Working with refrigeration equipment requires a specialized set of tools, without which safe dismantling is impossible. You will need not only a standard plumbing kit, but also equipment for working with copper pipes. The main tool will be pipe cutterwhich allows you to make an even cut without the formation of metal shavings.
It is strictly forbidden to use a hacksaw for cutting copper pipes of the system. The material formed during sawing metal shavings will inevitably get inside the system, which will lead to clogging of the capillary tube and failure of the new compressor immediately after startup.
To disconnect electrical contacts and remove fasteners, prepare the following list of tools:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers (phillips and flat) for removing panels and clamps.
- 🔥 Gas torch or powerful soldering iron for desoldering tubes (if not pipe cutter for large diameters).
- 🧤 Heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses to protect against oil splashes.
- 🔦 A powerful flashlight for illuminating the compressor niche.
Pay special attention to room ventilation. When the wire insulation heats up or an accidental fire occurs, oils are released toxic substances. Working in a closed kitchen without an open window or hood is extremely dangerous to health.
Preparing the refrigerator for dismantling
The first step is to completely disconnect the device from the power supply. Unplug the socket and gain access to the rear of the unit. The refrigerator must be moved away from the wall to a distance that allows you to freely work around the compressor compartment.
Allow the device to cool down if it has just been working. Although the compressor is usually warm, it is best to wait 15-20 minutes to reduce the risk of burns from accidentally touching hot surfaces. Remove the rear metal panel covering the engine compartment by unscrewing the fastening screws.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Carefully inspect the interior space of the niche. Dust, animal hair and cobwebs often accumulate there. Before starting active operations, carefully remove any dirt so that it does not get into open tubes or electrical contacts. Attention: Never start work without making sure that the refrigerator is completely de-energized. Residual voltage in the starting relay capacitors may not be dangerous, but the risk of electric shock if the wiring is damaged is real. electrical contacts.
⚠️ Attention: Never start work without making sure that the refrigerator is completely de-energized. Residual voltage in the start relay capacitors may not be dangerous, but the risk of electric shock if the wiring is damaged is real.
Disconnecting the electrical part of the compressor
On the top of the compressor there is a plastic casing, inside which there is a starting and protective relay, as well as a capacitor. Carefully remove this casing, having previously photographed the wiring diagram. Color markings may vary between manufacturers, such as Indesit, Atlant or LG.
Disconnect the terminals from the compressor contacts. They can be tight, so use the pliers with care, being careful not to damage the contacts themselves or the wire insulation. If the terminals are oxidized, they can be carefully cleaned, but this is not necessary for dismantling.
Remove the start relay and thermal protector from the compressor rod. They are usually simply removed by hand or require a gentle wiggle. Check the condition of the contacts for melting, this may be useful for diagnosing the cause of the breakdown.
What is under the relay cover?
Inside the casing there are two main elements: a starting relay, which supplies a pulse to the starting winding, and a thermal relay, which breaks the circuit in case of current overload.
After disconnecting all the wires, put them aside so that they do not interfere with further work and do not accidentally touch metal parts when voltage is possibly applied (if someone suddenly turns on the device).
Technology for unsoldering or cutting tubes
This is the most critical and dangerous stage. Two copper tubes are connected to the compressor: one high pressure (discharge, usually thin and hot during operation) and one low pressure (suction, thicker and colder). Before depressurizing them, it is necessary to release the pressure.
Take a pipe cutter or a needle file and make a small cut on one of the tubes (preferably on the suction tube, it is thicker). You will hear a characteristic hissing sound of gas escaping. Wait until the sound stops completely, this means that the pressure in the system has equaled atmospheric pressure.
Now you can completely cut both tubes. If you plan to solder the new compressor, leave sufficient tube tails. If you are simply disposing of an old unit, saw through the tubes as close to the motor housing as possible.
- ⚡ When soldering with a torch, the flame is directed to the soldering site, and not to the tube itself.
- 💨 Use nitrogen purge when soldering to avoid oxidation of the copper inside.
- 🧊 Be prepared for the fact that residual oil may leak from the tubes.
There remains compressor oilin the system, which is mixed with freon. When the remaining freon in the oil is heated by a burner fire, a flash may occur. Therefore, experts recommend first cutting off the ends of the tubes with pliers, allowing the main gas to escape, and only then heating.
Removing the fasteners and removing the unit
The compressor is fixed to a metal frame or the bottom of the refrigerator using four bolts, often with rubber bushings for vibration damping. These bolts may be located in hard-to-reach places, at the bottom of the compressor feet.
Use a socket or long wrench to reach the bolt heads. In some refrigerator models Bosch or Siemens access may be limited by the walls of the niche, requiring partial removal of other elements.
| Mounting type | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|
| Threaded rods | Two nuts or a nut + wrench | You need to hold the stud so as not to turn it |
| Through bolts | Open-end wrench / Head | Often rusty, require WD-40 |
| Spring suspension | Pliers | Found in older models, requires caution |
After After unscrewing all the bolts, the compressor will not fall on its own, since it is supported by scraps of pipes and wires. Carefully grasp the housing with both hands and remove it from its niche. The weight of the unit is from 8 to 12 kg, be prepared for the load.
Typical mistakes during dismantling
Beginners often make mistakes that complicate further repairs or make it impossible. One of the most common is an attempt to bend copper tubes at an acute angle. Copper is soft, but when bent it flattens, blocking the passage for freon.
Another mistake is ignoring the state of the wire insulation. When removing an old compressor, the insulation of the suitable cables is often damaged, which can lead to a short circuit when the new unit is first started.
⚠️ Attention: If you plan to install a new compressor, under no circumstances remove the transport plugs from its connections until soldering. The entry of moisture and air into the new engine is fatal to the system.
Using the wrong oil for topping up or completely changing the oil in the system unnecessarily is also considered a mistake. A modern compressor is supplied filled with oil, and additional lubrication is required only in specific cases.
Disposal and preparation for installation of a new one
After removal, the old compressor is scrap of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. However, you can't just throw it in the trash because of the oil and refrigerant residue. Hand over the unit to specialized electronics collection points.
If you have dismantled the engine for replacement, prepare a mounting location. Clean the frame from rust, check the integrity of the rubber anti-vibration bushings. If they are dry or cracked, they need to be replaced, otherwise the new compressor will work with a lot of noise.
Installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order of removal. First, the housing is fixed to the frame, then the tubes are sealed, and only at the very end the electrics are connected. Before the first start-up, be sure to check the system for leaks.
Is it possible to remove the compressor without unsoldering the tubes?
Theoretically, if you bite off the tubes at the very base, the compressor can be removed. However, to install a new unit, the tubes will still have to be soldered. Old cuttings should not be left, as their inner diameter can be deformed by wire cutters.
Is oil leaked from a compressor dangerous?
Mineral or synthetic oil from a refrigeration compressor itself is not toxic to the skin upon short-term contact. However, it contains dissolved breakdown products and freon. It is better to work with gloves, and dispose of contaminated rags as hazardous waste.
Is it necessary to vacuum the system after installation?
Yes, this is a mandatory step. After soldering, air and moisture remain in the system. The moisture will freeze in the capillary and block the operation of the refrigerator. Evacuation removes air and moisture, preparing the system for charging with freon.