Extracting copper from a refrigerator compressor: a complete guide

The issue of recycling old household appliances often arises before owners of non-working units, and one of the most valuable components here is compressor. It is this node that contains a significant amount of non-ferrous metals, such as copper and steel, which can be handed over to collection points. The extraction process requires certain skills and tools, since the engine is structurally closed in a sealed housing.

Before proceeding with disassembly, you must clearly understand the risks associated with working under high pressure and the presence of refrigerant residues. Failure to do so may result in personal injury or equipment damage. In this article we will look in detail at how to safely and effectively saw the housing access the windings, bypassing dangerous steps.

It is worth noting that not only pure copper is valuable, but also the steel from which the housing itself and the rotor are made. However, they are precisely stator windings the main goal of most recyclables collectors. Understanding the structure of the electric motor will help you quickly navigate the dismantling process.

Compressor structure and arrangement of non-ferrous metals

A standard piston compressor is a sealed metal cylinder, inside which the electric motor and compressor group are located. The bulk of non-ferrous metal is stator windingsmade of copper wire. They are located in the grooves of the metal core and make up a significant part of the weight of the internal assembly.

In addition, copper is contained in the heat exchanger tubes, if they have not been removed previously, and in the connecting cables. The steel body and rotor also have weight, but their cost per kilogram is significantly lower. It is important to understand that access to copper is blocked by a thick steel shellsteel shell, which cannot be disassembled with ordinary wrenches.

Inside the case there is also oil, which is used to lubricate the rubbing parts. When opened, it may leak, so it is necessary to provide a container to collect technical fluid. Some models may contain freon residues, which requires special care if the seal is broken.

Below is a table showing the approximate distribution of metals in a typical compressor:

Necessary tools and protective equipment

For high-quality and safe disassembly you will need a specialized tool. The main means for opening the case is grinder (angle grinder) with cutting discs for metal. Using a hacksaw for metal is possible, but it will take much more time and effort.

Do not forget about personal safety. Working with power tools and metal shavings requires protective glasses and gloves. Sparks flying when cutting can damage your eyes, and sharp metal edges can injure your hands. It is also recommended to use a respirator, as smoke may be released when the insulation burns.

⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to open the compressor if there is still pressure or active refrigerant in the system. Make sure that the unit is disconnected from the network and has been in a disassembled state (without freon) for a long time.

Additionally, you will need:

• 🔨 A hammer and chisel for knocking out the windings.
• 🔥 A blowtorch or gas torch for burning insulation.
• 🧤 Thick work gloves made of split leather or similar material.
• 🛡️ Safety glasses with side protection against sparks.

If you do not have experience working with an angle grinder, it is better to practice on unnecessary metal products. Control over the tool in this case is more important than the speed of work.

Preparing the workplace and dismantling attachments

Before starting the main work, the compressor must be removed from the refrigeration cabinet and cleaned of external elements. Cut off the soldered copper tubes, leaving them as long as possible, as this is also valuable scrap. Remove the start relay and safety device, which are usually attached to the side.

Select a suitable work location. A concrete floor in a garage or outdoor area where sparks will not cause a fire is best. Cover the surface with cardboard or metal sheet to catch all the small parts and oil. Make sure there is a nearby source of electrical power to connect the power tool.

Remove the outer casing, if present, and disconnect all electrical cords. Check to see if there is any oil left inside: to do this, you can turn the compressor over the container and wait a few minutes. The liquid may be hot, if the unit has been operating recently, let it cool.

Opening the case: step-by-step instructions

The most labor-intensive stage is the direct sawing of the steel body. You need to make a circular cut along the equator of the balloon, dividing it into two halves. Do not try to cut strictly along the weld seam; it is better to step back 1-2 centimeters in any direction so as not to damage the internal elements with the disk.

Turn on the grinder and smoothly move the disk along the intended line. Apply moderate pressure to the tool, letting the disc do its job. If the disc jams, the tool may be torn out of your hands, so hold it firmly with both hands. After the circle has been completed, remove the top cover.

Inside you will see the “inner”: an electric motor tightly seated in the lower part of the housing, and the compressor unit itself on top. They are connected by three bolts or welded. Your task is to separate the electric motor from the rest of the structure. This often requires cutting off the connecting elements or hitting them powerfully with a hammer.

⚠️ Attention: When cutting the housing, oil may remain inside. Protect your eyes and clothing from splashes that fly away when the metal is heated by the disk.

After removing the internal unit (stator with rotor), you can begin extracting the copper. The rotor (the central rotating part) is usually simply removed or knocked out. The stator is the outer part with the coils, which is what we need.

Removing copper from the stator

Now that you have the stator in your hands, you need to free the copper wire from the iron core. There are two main methods: mechanical and thermal. Mechanical involves cutting the windings on one side and pulling out the bundles on the other. To do this, use an ax or chisel.

Apply several strong blows to one side of the coils to cut the wire. Then turn the stator over and use pliers or a hook to pull out entire bundles of copper wire. This method allows you to obtain pure copper immediately, without the need for firing.

The thermal method (firing) is used if it is not possible to pull out the wire. The stator is heated with a gas burner until red to burn off the varnish and insulation. After cooling, the copper becomes soft and comes off easily. However, up to 5-10% of the weight is lost due to the combustion of impurities, and the copper itself is oxidized.

If you choose firing, do it outdoors in a metal container. The smoke from burning insulation is toxic and unpleasant. After calcination, tap the stator on a hard surface - the copper rings should fall out on their own.

Sorting and storage of non-ferrous scrap

After extraction, it is necessary to sort the resulting material. Pure copper (pieces, burnt copper) is valued higher than copper mixed with insulation or steel. Remove all remaining plastic, rubber and iron particles. To increase the price, you can compress copper into dense lumps.

It is better to store scrap in a dry place to avoid oxidation, although this is not as critical for copper as for aluminum. Steel parts of the compressor can also be returned, but their cost is minimal, so many simply throw them away as black scrap.

When handing it over to a collection point, be prepared for the metal to be checked for background radiation and the presence of colored inclusions. If you used the firing method, warn the receiver about this, since visually such copper may resemble brass or a low-grade alloy.

⚠️ Attention: Prices for non-ferrous metals fluctuate (change) daily. Before going to the collection point, check the current prices for a specific category of scrap (copper lump, burnt, mixed).