Dismantling a built-in refrigerator is a task that at first glance seems simple, but in practice requires accuracy and knowledge of the nuances. Unlike free-standing models, built-in appliances are fixed to the furniture body with special fasteners, connected to hidden communications and often have non-standard dimensions. Errors during removal can lead to damage to the kitchen facade, broken wires, or even breakdown of the compressor.
In this article we will analyze a step-by-step dismantling algorithm, features of fasteners of different brands (Bosch, Liebherr, Siemens, Electrolux), as well as typical problems - from jammed guides to hidden screws. We will pay special attention to safety: how to avoid electric shock, not damage the freon line and maintain the tightness of the door seal. If you are planning replacing equipmentrepairs or moving, these instructions will help you save on calling a technician.
The complexity of the process depends on the type of installation:
- 🔹 Fully built-in models (hidden behind the kitchen facade, attached to a furniture frame)
- 🔹 Partially built-in (the top panel is visible, but the sides are closed)
- 🔹 Under-table (installed under the countertop, often without top fixation)
Before you begin, check whether you have access to the back wall of the cabinet, whether there is enough room for maneuver (minimum clearance - 10 cm on each side) and whether you are ready for possible surprises, for example tightly sealed technological holes or non-standard fasteners from the manufacturer. If the refrigerator is connected to a water supply (models with an ice maker), you will need to turn off the water and disconnect the hoses.
1. Preparation: tools and safety measures
Start by unplugging the refrigerator. It is not enough to simply remove the plug from the socket - be sure to turn off the machine on the distribution panel, if the equipment is permanently connected (without an socket). This will eliminate the risk of a short circuit due to accidental contact with the wires. If the model is electronically controlled (NoFrost, MultiAirFlow), wait until it is completely thawed - ice in the freezer can complicate dismantling.
Minimum set of tools:
- 🔧 Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2), flat (4–6 mm), hexagons (for some models Liebherr)
- 🔧 Socket wrenches or heads (8–10 mm) for fastening to the tabletop
- 🔧 Hacksaw or grinder (if the screws are rusty or torn off)
- 🔧 Flashlight with a magnet (to illuminate the back wall)
- 🔧 Construction knife (for removing sealant or polyurethane foam)
- 🔧 Voltage tester (check for blackout)
⚠️ Attention: If the refrigerator is connected to the water supply, prepare a basin and rags - when disconnecting the hose up to 0.5 liters of water may spill out. Do not pull the hoses by force: they are secured with plastic nuts, which are easy to break.
Free up the internal space: remove all shelves, drawers and trays. This will reduce the weight of the equipment and protect the glass elements from vibration. If the door is heavy (models with French Door), secure it with masking tape to prevent spontaneous opening. When working alone, use carrying straps or a strong rope - the weight of even compact refrigerators starts from 40 kg.
2. and decorative panels
Most built-in models (Bosch KIN86AF30, Siemens KS36VVW30) have the façade attached with latches or magnets. Start with the top panel: pry it off with a flat screwdriver (wrap the blade with electrical tape to avoid scratching the surface, if the panel does not give way, look for hidden screws under the rubber plugs - they are often located along the side). corners.
Side decorative trims are usually fixed with clips. To remove them:
- Open the refrigerator door 90°.
- Insert a plastic spatula into the gap between the trim and the body.
- Gently press to the side body until the clip comes out of the groove.
- Repeat for all fastenings (usually 3-4 per side).
The situation is more complicated with models where the facade is integrated into the furniture frame (Liebherr ICBN 3366Here you will need:
- 🔹 Unscrew). screws hidden under the top tabletop (use a socket wrench).
- 🔹 Remove the bottom plinth panel (often glued with double-sided tape).
- 🔹 Disconnect the door hinges from the furniture facade (a hexagon is required).
⚠️ Attention: If the facade is glued to the refrigerator body with polyurethane foam (found in budget models), do not try to tear it off by force. Use a construction knife to carefully cut the foam around the perimeter.
What to do if the facade latches are broken?
If the clips or facade latches are cracked during dismantling, they can be replaced with universal ones (sold in furniture fittings stores). The main thing is that the size and type of fastening match. For temporary fixation, 3M double-sided tape or mounting adhesive will be suitable (but this will complicate the subsequent dismantling).
3. Detaching the fastenings to the cabinet and countertop
Built-in refrigerators are fixed to the furniture frame. at 4–6 points. Standard fastening schemes:
| Type of fastening | Location | Tool | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hexagon head screws | Upper corners (under the countertop) | Hexagon 5–6 mm | Often closed with decorative plugs |
| Wood screws | Side walls cabinet | Phillips screwdriver PH2 | Can be recessed into chipboard |
| Metal brackets | Bottom part (to the base) | Pliers | Sometimes welded to the body |
| Plastic clips | Back wall (for fixing to the wall) | Flat screwdriver | They break during careless dismantling |
Start with the top fasteners: they are usually the most accessible. If the screws are rusted or stripped, use a penetrating lubricant (WD-40) and let it work for 10-15 minutes. For severely damaged screw heads, an extractor or an extractor will help. drilling (but this is risky for the refrigerator body).
The side fastenings are often hidden behind decorative trims or the door seal. Lift the rubber seal - there may be screws underneath that secure the body to the cabinet. In models Electrolux sometimes used eccentric ties (as in furniture). IKEA) - they need to be turned counterclockwise with a screwdriver.
Power and water are turned off|All decorative panels have been removed|The top and side fastenings have been unscrewed|Access to the back wall has been cleared|A place has been prepared for pulling out the refrigerator-->
4. Working with communications: wires and hoses
Even if the refrigerator is disconnected from the outlet, its power can be supplied permanently through the terminal block. Usually it is located in the lower part of the rear wall, under the plastic cover:
- Take a photo of the connection diagram (wire colors: brown - phase, blue - zero, yellow-green - ground).
- Loosen the terminal block screws with a screwdriver.
- Carefully pull out the wires without pulling the insulation.
If the refrigerator is with ice maker or water supply system (Samsung RF23HCEDBSR, you will need to disconnect the hoses:
- 💧 Turn off the water inlet (usually the tap under the sink).
- 💧 Place a container under the connection - residual water will definitely spill out.
- 💧 Loosen the plastic nut on the check valve (do not force it - it is fragile!).
- 💧 If the hose is stuck, warm the connection with a hairdryer (temperature no higher 60°C).
⚠️ Attention: Do not bend the copper tubes of the freon circuit (thin coils on the back wall). Damage to them will lead to refrigerant leakage and expensive repairs. If the tubes prevent you from pulling out the refrigerator, carefully bend them with your hands without using tools.
Models with water dispenser may have an additional electrical connector for the pump. It is usually marked with colored heat shrink tube. Do not pull the wires - first press the connector lock.
5. Removing the refrigerator: equipment and assistants
When all the fasteners are removed, all that remains is to pull the refrigerator out of the niche. This is the most critical part - errors here lead to scratches on the case, damage to furniture, or even equipment falling. Correct algorithm:
- Evaluate the weight: the average built-in refrigerator weighs 50–80 kg. For models with Side-by-Side (LG GC-B247SLUV) you will need 2-3 people.
- Prepare the way: remove the rugs, check for slippery surfaces on the floor. If the refrigerator has wheels, block them.
- Use a lever: place a board or crowbar under the front of the refrigerator to lift it and move it.
- Pull smoothly: sudden movements can tear off the remaining fasteners or damage the freon line.
If the refrigerator jammed is in a closet, check:
- 🔍 Is the compressor clinging to the bottom shelf (sometimes it protrudes beyond the dimensions of the case).
- 🔍 Are the wires or hoses pinched between the case and the cabinet.
- 🔍 Is there any deformation of the furniture frame (humidity or overload could bend the chipboard).
To make sliding easier, use furniture sliders (plastic or felt pads). If the gap between the refrigerator and the cabinet is less than 5 cm, you will have to dismantle the side walls of the furniture - otherwise there is a risk of scratching the case or tearing off the door hinges.
6. Typical problems and how to avoid them
Even with careful dismantling, unexpected difficulties may arise. Let's look at the most common ones:
Problem 1: Screws do not unscrew
If the screw head is torn off, try:
- 🔧 Put a rubber band on the screwdriver for better grip.
- 🔧 Use an extractor or a left-hand drilling machine (for metal fasteners).
- 🔧 As a last resort, carefully drill out the screw with a drill (drill diameter = 80% of the screw diameter).
Problem 2: The refrigerator does not extends
Causes and solutions:
- 🔹 The compressor rests on the shelf → Raise the front of the refrigerator by 5–10 cm.
- 🔹 The guides are deformed → Lubricate them with silicone grease or bend them slightly pliers.
- 🔹 The rear wall of the cabinet is in the way → Dismantle it or cut out part of the chipboard with a jigsaw.
Problem 3: The seal is damaged doors
The rubber seal (Indesit BIAA 13 models) is easy to tear when dismantling the facade carelessly. If this happens:
- 🔧 Replace the seal with a new one (the article number is indicated in the refrigerator passport).
- 🔧 Temporary solution: seal the torn area with silicone sealant (but this will reduce energy efficiency).
⚠️ Attention: Fastening designs may vary depending on the year of manufacture of the model. For example, refrigerators Bosch prior to 2018 often had metal brackets instead of plastic clips. Check the mounting diagram in the instructions for the specific model.
7. Reinstallation: what to consider
If you are dismantling the refrigerator for repair or moving, and then plan to install it back, remember the key points:
- 📌 Keep all screws and clips in a separate bag with a signature (for example, “top fastenings”).
- 📌 Take a photo of the location of the wires —especially if the refrigerator is connected to a water supply.
- 📌 Check the integrity of the seal before reinstalling: even a slight deformation will lead to loss of cold.
- 📌 Leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the refrigerator body and the cabinet for ventilation of the compressor.
When reinstalling, first secure the refrigerator to the cabinet, then connect the communications, and only lastly install the facade. This will allow you to quickly check the functionality of the equipment before final assembly.
If you install new refrigerator instead of the old one, compare the dimensions: even with the same width, the depth and height may differ. For example, models often have a protruding compressor that does not fit into a standard niche from a new refrigerator. data-i="212">Theoretically, yes, if the model is compact (up to 60 kg) and there are sliders for sliding. But for Liebherr often have a protruding compressor that does not fit into a standard niche from Electrolux.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about dismantling
Is it possible to remove the refrigerator alone?
Theoretically, yes, if the model is compact (up to 60 kg) and has sliders for sliding. But for Side-by-Side or refrigerators with an ice maker (Samsung RF28R7351SG) you will need an assistant. The main danger when working alone is loss of balance and equipment falling to the floor.
What to do if after dismantling the refrigerator does not turn on?
Check:
- Is the grounding wire (yellow-green) connected?
- Is it damaged? power cord (especially if it was pinched by the housing).
- Has the compressor thermal fuse tripped (you need to wait 10-15 minutes).
If the problem remains, there may be an error when connecting the terminals or damage to the control board.
How to remove the facade if it is glued to the mounting panel foam?
Carefully cut the foam with a construction knife along the perimeter of the facade. Do not use a hair dryer - it may deform plastic parts. After removal, remove any remaining foam with a solvent (for example, Cosmofen 5), but avoid contact with the door seal.
Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before dismantling?
Required if the model is with drip system or NoFrost. Ice in the freezer will add weight and may shift the center of gravity when pulled out. To speed up the process, use a fan directed into the open chamber.
Can old mounts be used for a new refrigerator?
Only if the dimensions and weight of the equipment are the same. For example, fastenings from Bosch KIN86AF30 (width 56 cm) will not be suitable for Liebherr ICBN 3366 (width 55.6 cm) - a difference of 4 mm can lead to vibrations. Always check the instructions for the new refrigerator.