Moving or purchasing new kitchen appliances is always associated with the risk of damage to the equipment, especially when it comes to large and heavy units. Refrigerator is one of the most vulnerable pieces of furniture, since inside it there is a complex mechanism that requires careful handling. The compressor is the heart of the cooling system, and it is the one that most often suffers during bumpy transportation if it is not secured properly.
Many equipment owners mistakenly believe that it is enough to simply place the unit vertically, but inertia during braking or a sharp turn can displace the internal components. Motor-compressor suspended on springs inside case, and with strong shaking it can hit the walls or bend the copper tubes. In this article we will look in detail at whether it is necessary to secure the compressor, how to do it correctly and what tools you will need for a safe move.
⚠️ Attention: Before any manipulations inside the case, be sure to disconnect the device from the power supply and wait until the chambers are completely defrosted. Working with wet components or a disassembled unit connected to the network is unacceptable.
Is it necessary to secure the compressor: myths and reality
The issue of fixing the motor causes a lot of controversy among craftsmen and equipment owners. On the one hand, modern models are often equipped protective springs with limiters that prevent the engine from moving too much. However, these systems are designed for vibration during operation, and not for shock loads that occur when driving on uneven roads.
Manufacturers often write in the instructions that additional fixation is not required, but this is only true for ideal conditions. In practice transport bolts or homemade clamps can save equipment from fatal damage. If the compressor hits the housing, welds may break or deform of the suspension system.
In addition, there is a risk of displacement of itself compressor housing relative to the frame, which will lead to a violation of the tightness of the system. Therefore, if you plan to transport over long distances or on bad roads, it is better to play it safe. Experts recommend removing the back cover and assessing the condition of the suspension before the road.
Tools and materials for safe fixation
To perform fixation work, you do not need complex industrial equipment, but a set of tools should be at hand. It is important to prepare everything in advance so as not to leave the unit disassembled for a long time. Pay special attention to the fastening elements, which must be reliable.
You will need the following tools and materials:
- 🔧 A set of screwdrivers - to remove the rear protective panel and dismantle the compressor casing (usually Phillips and flat).
- 🔩 Transport bolts or long bolts with nuts (diameter depends on the model, often M6 or M8).
- 🧱 Wooden blocks or dense foam rubber - to create supports inside the niche.
- 📏 Tape measure or ruler - for measuring distances and selecting lengths fasteners.
- 🧤 Gloves - to protect hands from sharp edges of metal and oil.
Special attention should be paid transport bolts. In some models they are included with the new refrigerator, in others you have to select them yourself. If you use homemade fasteners, make sure the threads will not damage the holes in the frame. It would also be a good idea to have on hand WD-40 in case the old bolts have become stuck.
☑️ Preparation for fixing the compressor
Process of dismantling the protective panel
The first stage of work is to gain access to the engine compartment. To do this, you need to carefully remove the back cover of the refrigerator. Usually it is attached to several screws around the perimeter. Use a suitable screwdriverto avoid tearing off the fastener heads.
After removing the panel, inspect the insides. You will see compressor, a capacitor (grid) and a start-up protective relay. On some models, access to the mounting points may be limited by a plastic cover, which will also need to be removed. Be careful with the wires going to the relay and thermostat.
If you find traces of oil or rust on the springs, this is a signal that the suspension may be weakened. In this case, securing during transportation becomes critical. Carefully clear the area around the motor of dust so that you can see where to install the fasteners.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to bend copper tubes with your hands to make room. Copper is a soft metal, and even a microcrack will lead to leakage refrigerant and expensive repairs.
Methods for fixing the compressor during transportation
There are several ways to secure the engine, the choice depends on the design of your model. The most reliable method is to use standard or selected shipping bolts. They are screwed into special holes on the frame and rest against the compressor housing, blocking its movement.
If there are no standard holes or the bolts are lost, you can use the spacer method. To do this, hard polystyrene foam is installed between the compressor housing and the wall of the refrigerator. The main thing is not to squeeze the tubes and leave a small gap for shock absorption, but to eliminate backlash. wooden blocks or rigid foam. The main thing is not to squeeze the tubes and leave a small gap for shock absorption, but avoid backlash.
Below is a table comparing fixation methods:
| Fixation method | Efficiency | Risks | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Transport bolts | High | Minimal | Low |
| Wooden spacers | Medium | Possible displacement | Medium |
| Mounting foam | Low | Contamination of parts | High |
| Lack of fixation | None | High risk of breakage | — |
The use of spray foam or soft tissues is strictly not recommended, as they do not provide rigid fixation and can stain electrical contacts. It is better to spend time finding suitable bolts or bars.
What to do if the bolts do not fit the threads?
If you cannot find bolts with the required threads, you can use larger diameter nuts as spacers or carefully drill a hole in the frame, but only if you are confident in your abilities. It is better to use rubber gaskets between the bolt and the motor housing.
Subtleties of transporting different types of compressors
The design of the suspension may vary depending on the brand and year of manufacture. In older models Soviet refrigerators (for example, ZIL, Biryusa), compressors are often more rigidly mounted, but have a lot of weight. Here it is important to check the condition of the rubber shock absorbers, which become tanned over time.
Modern imported models (LG, Samsung, Bosch) often use linear inverter compressors, which are mounted differently. They may be more sensitive to side impacts. For such units, it is critical to fix the housing on all sides to prevent swinging.
It is also worth considering the type of refrigerant. In systems with isobutane tubes are thinner, and the pressure in the system may differ. Any deformation of the solder when the compressor hits the tube will lead to depressurization. Therefore, in modern models, the gap between the motor and the tubes must be securely fixed.
Actions after completion of transportation
After the refrigerator has been delivered to its destination, do not rush to plug it in. The first step is to remove all installed fasteners, bolts and spacers. If you forget to do this, compressor it will work in rigid suspension mode, which will lead to rapid wear and loud noise.
Carefully inspect the tubes for kinks or cracks. Make sure the springs are in place and the motor swings freely when pressed lightly. Only after a visual inspection can you start turning it on.
Let the refrigerator stand in an upright position for at least 2-4 hours (and if it was lying down, up to 24 hours). This is necessary so that compressor oil the glass flows back into the engine crankcase. Turning on the device with oil in the circulation circuit may damage the unit.
⚠️ Attention: If after turning on you hear a loud knock, clanging or hum, immediately turn off the device. This may mean that the clamps were not removed or the tubes were shot off during transportation.
Common mistakes when preparing for a move
One of the most common mistakes is trying to secure the compressor without removing the back cover “by touch.” This often results in the bolt hitting electrical wiring or damaging the insulation. Always provide yourself with a good overview of the working area.
Another mistake is using bolts that are too long, which rest against the internal parts of the motor or pass through, damaging the winding. The length of the fastener must be selected to the nearest millimeter. It is also dangerous to use soft materials, which wrinkle over time and no longer support the load.
Do not forget about the external fixation of the refrigerator itself in the body of the car. Even a perfectly mounted compressor inside will not save the equipment if the entire unit dangles in the back. Use straps and stops to secure the body.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to transport a refrigerator lying down if the compressor is secured?
Yes, fixing the compressor reduces risks, but does not make transportation in a lying position completely safe. Oil can still leak into the circuit, and the load on the doors and hinges will remain high. It is better to transport it in a vertical position.
What to do if the shipping bolts are lost?
You can pick up similar bolts in a hardware store by measuring the thread diameter. As a last resort, use thick wooden wedges, carefully driven between the frame and the motor housing, but without fanaticism, so as not to deform the parts.
Do you need to secure the compressor when transporting it on an elevator?
When moving inside the house or descending short distances by elevator, additional fixation is usually not required if you carry the refrigerator carefully. Fixation is needed for prolonged shaking in a car.
How to understand that the compressor was damaged during transportation?
Signs of damage: the refrigerator hums, but does not cool; a metallic clang is heard during operation; the motor vibrates a lot; traces of oil or frost are visible on the back wall in one place.
How long should the refrigerator stand after transportation?
If the refrigerator was transported standing - 2-4 hours. If you transported it lying down or tilted it more than 40 degrees, it is advisable to wait 12 to 24 hours for the oil to drain.