How to replace the compressor in the refrigerator: video instructions and tips

The breakdown of a refrigeration unit is always stressful, because the food and comfort of the whole family are at risk. When compressor stops starting or works with strong vibration, the only solution is often to replace it, and many equipment owners immediately look for a video to assess the scale of the work.

Independent intervention in the cooling system requires not only theoretical knowledge, but also the presence of a specific tool, such as a burner and a vacuum pump. In this article, we will analyze in detail the process of replacing the motor so that you understand the complexity of the procedure and can make an informed decision about calling a technician or independently soldering the tubes if you have the skills. Before proceeding with dismantling, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the engine, and not in the starting relay or thermostat. Often, diagnostics take longer than the replacement itself, so it is important to exclude other faults in the electrical circuit. Soldering tubes yourself if you have the skills.

Before proceeding with dismantling, you need to make sure that the problem lies in the engine and not in the start relay or thermostat. Diagnosis often takes longer than the replacement itself, so it is important to rule out other electrical faults.

Diagnostics of a compressor malfunction

The first sign of failure motor-compressor is the absence of a characteristic hum when the refrigerator is turned on. If you hear only a quiet click of the relay, and then silence, this may indicate a wedge of the piston group or a break in the winding of the electric motor.

For an accurate diagnosis, you need to ring the windings with a multimeter, having first disconnected the starting relay. The normal resistance of the working winding usually varies from 10 to 30 Ohms, while the starting winding has a higher value.

• 🔍 Lack of resistance (infinity) indicates an open circuit inside the winding.
• ⚡ Too low resistance or a short circuit to the case indicates an interturn short circuit.
• 🔥 Heating of the motor housing when trying to start indicates jamming of the mechanical part.

If the multimeter shows normal values, but the engine does not start, the problem may lie in the start protection relay. However, if the relay is working properly, but compressor buzzes and immediately turns off due to thermal protection, most likely it needs to be replaced.

⚠️ Attention: If you smell burnt insulation or see sparking in the electrical contact area, immediately unplug the refrigerator and do not try to turn it on again until it is fixed malfunction.

It is also important to check the condition of the capacitor (if it is in the circuit) and the integrity of the supply wires. Sometimes oxidation of contacts can create a false impression of a breakdown of an expensive unit.

Required tools and spare parts

Replacement unit cannot be done using a standard set of screwdrivers and pliers. You will need specialized equipment for working with copper pipes and refrigerant.

The main tool will be a gas torch with a cylinder, designed for soldering with hard or soft solders. It is also necessary to have a pipe cutter to make an even cut of the copper line without the formation of chips inside.

The list of necessary equipment includes:

• 🔥 Gas torch and solder (silver or copper-phosphorus).
• 💨 Vacuum pump and pressure gauge station for refilling with freon.
• 🔧 A set of wrenches, pliers and a tool for stripping pipes.

When choosing a new compressor, be guided by the markings of the old device. The power, type of refrigerant (R134a, R600a) and geometric dimensions of the seats must strictly correspond to the original.

Don’t forget to buy a new filter-drier, since When the system is opened, the old one becomes saturated with moisture and loses its properties. You may also need a new starting loop or relay if they are not included with the new motor.

Preparation for dismantling the old unit

Before starting work, the refrigerator must be completely defrosted and dried. Moisture inside the chambers can get on the electrical contacts or interfere with the soldering process, so leave the doors open for at least 24 hours.

Ensure good access to the rear of the device. It is best to take the refrigerator out onto the balcony or into the yard, since the soldering process involves open fire and the release of gases. If work is carried out indoors, provide strong ventilation.

Remove the protective cover at the bottom of the refrigerator where the compressor is located. Disconnect the electrical wires, having first photographed the connection diagram so as not to get confused during assembly.

Bite off with wire cutters or saw through the copper tubes going from the compressor to the condenser and evaporator. This must be done carefully so as not to damage other elements of the cooling system.

The process of dismantling and installing the compressor

The old engine is removed by unscrewing the four mounting bolts on the frame or cutting off the shock absorbing bushings, if the model requires it. Be careful, the weight of the unit can reach 10-12 kg.

Install the new compressor into place, making sure that it is level and does not touch the walls of the housing. Bolt it in place using new washers and nuts to secure it in place.

Now you need to prepare the copper tubes for soldering. Remove old solder from the ends of the condenser and evaporator tubes using a torch flame and a rag.

Insert the ends of the tubes into the pipes of the new compressor with a small gap (1-2 mm) for thermal expansion. Heat the connection with a torch and add solder until it fills the entire gap with a uniform ring.

Why can’t you heat the tube for too long?

Prolonged heating of copper leads to its oxidation from the inside, which can cause blockage of the capillary tube with oxides. Also, overheating can damage the insulation of the windings inside the compressor housing, even if the flame does not touch it directly.

Pay special attention to the soldering of the filter drier. It must be heated very carefully and quickly so as not to overheat the internal mesh and sorbent, otherwise the filter will stop working.

Evacuation and refrigerant charging

After soldering all connections, the system is under atmospheric pressure and contains moisture. If you simply start such a refrigerator, the water will freeze in the capillary tube and block the circulation of freon.

Connect the pressure gauge station and the vacuum pump to the compressor fitting. Turn on the pump and pump out the air for 15-20 minutes until the pressure gauge needle shows deep vacuum.

Then close the valve and leave the system under vacuum for another 10 minutes. If the pressure gauge needle does not deviate, then the system is sealed and ready for refueling.

• ❄️ Open the valve of the freon cylinder and let in a small portion of gas.
• 👀 Start the compressor and monitor the pressure on the pressure gauge.
• 📏 Bring the amount of refrigerant to the level indicated on the nameplate of the refrigerator.

⚠️ Attention: The exact amount of refrigerant is critically important. Excess freon will lead to increased pressure and possible rupture of the tubes, and too little will lead to insufficient cooling and overheating of the compressor.

After refueling, seal the filling fitting. Check the soldering area with soapy water for leaks. If there are no bubbles, the replacement process can be considered complete.

First start and operation check

Plug in the refrigerator and listen to the operation of the new engine. It should work smoothly, without vibrations or extraneous knocks. The start relay should operate with a quiet click.

During the first hour of operation, check the heating of the condenser grille at the rear. It should warm up evenly, starting from the point of exit from the compressor.

Control the temperature in the chambers. After 2-3 hours of operation, frost should appear on the freezer shelf, and the temperature in the main chamber should noticeably drop.

If you notice that the compressor is running non-stop and does not turn off, there may be a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. In this case, repeated diagnostics are required.

Common mistakes when replacing yourself

One ​​of the most common mistakes is neglecting vacuuming. Many amateur craftsmen simply bleed off the remaining freon and immediately refill with a new one, which inevitably leads to breakdown after a short time.

The use of inappropriate solder is also common. For copper tubes of refrigerators, it is best to use silver solder or copper-phosphorus, as they provide better sealing and vibration resistance.

Incorrect installation of the filter drier can also be fatal. It must be installed in the lowest point of the circuit so that oil does not accumulate inside, and soldered as quickly as possible.

Ignoring safety precautions when working with open fire and gas can lead to a fire. Always keep a fire extinguisher on hand and work in a ventilated area.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions

Is it possible to replace a compressor without a vacuum pump?

Theoretically, you can start the system without a vacuum depressor by blowing it with freon, but this is a “collective farm” method. Moisture and air will remain in the system, which will lead to oil oxidation, acid formation and rapid failure of the new compressor. Professional repairs require mandatory evacuation.

How to understand that the compressor is jammed?

If, when turned on, the refrigerator hums for 5-10 seconds, then there is a click and silence, and turning it on again after a while gives the same result - most likely, the piston group is jammed. This may also be indicated by the inability to turn the engine shaft manually (with the relay removed).

Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?

Nitrogen flushing is necessary if the old compressor burned out with the release of black oil and acid into the system. If the replacement is planned or due to mechanical wear without burning, it is enough to replace the filter drier and properly vacuum the circuit.

Where can I get freon for refilling?

Refrigerants are sold in specialized refrigeration equipment stores or in construction markets in departments for craftsmen. Buy cylinders only with clear markings and from trusted suppliers, since low-quality freon may contain impurities.