Replacing a relay on a Stinol 103 refrigerator: a complete guide

A sudden stop of the compressor or a characteristic click followed by silence often indicates a failure of the trigger mechanism in your Stinol 103. Two-chamber models in this series have proven themselves to be reliable units, but their electrical parts wear out over time. It is starting relay that takes the brunt of each engine start, providing the necessary torque.

If you notice that the refrigerator has stopped freezing, and the motor hums, but does not start, or turns on for only a few seconds, the problem most likely lies in this small device. Self-replacement is possible if you have a minimum set of tools and follow safety precautions. The main thing is to act consistently and not ignore visual signs of damage to the wiring.

Before starting disassembly, make sure that the unit is completely disconnected from the power supply. Voltage 220 volts It is dangerous to life, and any manipulations with electrical components should only be carried out with the plug removed from the socket. Also, let the equipment stand for about 15 minutes so that the capacitors discharge and the heated parts cool down.

Diagnostics of a faulty starting relay

The first step should always be an accurate diagnosis. Do not rush to buy a new part until you are sure that the problem is in the relay. The model Stinol 103 uses a relay of the RT (thermal) or RTP (start-thermal) type, which is attached directly to the compressor housing. Symptoms of malfunction can be different: from complete silence of the refrigerator to frequent clicks.

Visual inspection often provides more information than it seems at first glance. Remove the rear protective cover at the bottom of the refrigerator. If you see melted plastic, blackened contacts, or smell a burning smell, then the relay definitely needs to be replaced. It is also worth paying attention to the condition of the wires going to the contact group.

⚠️ Attention: If after removing the relay you see that the rod inside has melted or crumbled, do not under any circumstances try to clean the contacts and reuse the part. This is a temporary measure that may cause the compressor to seize.

Perform a simple integrity check. Shake the removed relay next to your ear: if a rattling sound is heard inside, it means the internal coil or contacts are damaged. A working relay should be solid and heavy to the touch. For more accurate diagnostics, you can use a multimeter in dialing mode.

📊 How does your Stinol refrigerator behave?
It hums, but does not start
It clicks and is silent
It works, but does not freeze
You can hear a burning smell

Necessary tools and preparation

To successfully replace the relay with Stinol 103 you do not need a complex professional tool. A basic DIY kit is enough. It is important to prepare your work area: provide good lighting in the area of the bottom of the refrigerator, as it is often dark there.

You will need the following tools:

  • 🔧 Screwdriver (Phillips and flat) for removing protective covers and clamps.
  • ✂️ Pliers or side cutters for work with wires and terminals.
  • ⚡ Multimeter (tester) for checking the circuit and contacts.
  • 🧹 Brush for cleaning contacts from dust and oxides.

Pay special attention to the selection of a new part. The relay for compressor is selected strictly according to the markings indicated on the old device. Models RTK-1, RTK-1.3 or their modern analogues such as R-1, R-2, R-3 are most often suitable for Stinol 103. Make sure that the rating of the new relay matches the power of your engine.

☑️ Preparation for repair

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The process of dismantling the old relay

Dismantling begins with removing the metal or plastic casing that protects the compressor area. In the model Stinol 103 it is usually secured with latches or screws. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips, which can become brittle over time.

After removing the protection, you will see a black cylindrical compressor housing. There is a box located at the end or side (depending on the modification of the motor) - this is our desired relay. It is put on three pins of the compressor and secured with a metal bracket or spring clip.

Algorithm for removal:

  • 📸 Take a photo of connecting the wires before disassembling so as not to get confused during assembly.
  • 🔌 Carefully disconnect the power terminals, going to the relay.
  • 🔩 Loosen or remove the fixing bracket (clamp).
  • 📦 Remove the relay from the compressor pins with light rocking movements.

If the relay is tight, do not use excessive force, so as not to break the ceramic base or compressor pins. It's better to move it slightly from side to side. Pay attention to the condition of the wires: if the insulation is cracked, it must be restored or a section of the circuit must be replaced.

Installing a new starting relay

Installing a new part is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. It is critical to correctly orient the relay relative to the compressor. On the body of most relays there is an arrow with the inscription UP or TOPwhich should look straight up. This is necessary for the correct operation of the thermal release.

Push the relay onto the contact pins of the compressor until it stops. Make sure the fit is snug and there is no play. Then reinstall the retaining bracket or spring. Now you can start connecting the wires according to the previously taken photo or color marking.

Wire color Purpose of contact Where to connect
Red / Brown Phase (L) Relay input
Blue / White Working winding Contact R
Black / Yellow Start winding S contact data-i="113">After connecting all the wires, check the reliability of the connections again. Poor contact can cause sparking and repeated failure of the part. Make sure that the wires do not touch hot parts of the compressor or sharp metal edges.
Green/Yellow-green Grounding Housing/Ground Terminal

After connecting all the wires, check the connections again for security. Poor contact can cause sparking and repeated failure of the part. Make sure that the wires do not touch hot parts of the compressor or sharp metal edges.

Checking the system's performance

Before installing the protective casing in place, it is necessary to conduct a test run. Plug the refrigerator into the outlet. You should hear a clear click from the relay followed by the compressor starting. The motor should run smoothly, without strong vibration or hum.

Observe the operation of the unit for 10-15 minutes. Check to see if the relay itself and the wires are overheating. Light heating is acceptable, but if the part becomes hot or smells like burning plastic, turn off the device immediately. This may indicate incorrect operation of the thermal protection or power mismatch.

⚠️ Attention: If the compressor hums, but does not start, and after a few seconds the shutdown click is heard, the problem may not be in the relay, but in the compressor itself (turn-to-turn short circuit) or in the wiring.

If the start was successful, give let the refrigerator run for about an hour without loading food. Make sure that the temperature in the freezer and refrigerator compartments begins to drop. Only after a successful test can the protective cover of the compressor compartment be fixed.

Why can the relay burn out again?

A frequent reason for the relay burning out again is an unstable voltage in the network or a malfunction of the compressor itself. If the motor is “heavy” (has increased starting resistance), the standard relay will overheat. In such cases, it is sometimes necessary to install a relay with a different rating or install a voltage stabilizer.

Typical replacement errors

The most common mistake is ignoring the orientation of the part during installation. As mentioned earlier, position thermal release depends on gravity. If you install the relay upside down, the current passing through the bimetallic plate will not warm it up correctly, and the protection will not operate in the event of an overload.

Another mistake is using a relay with an inappropriate rating. Visually, they may be the same, but have different operating currents. Installing a too powerful relay on a weak compressor will result in the protection not turning off the engine if it jams, which threatens to burn out the windings.

List of common mistakes:

  • ❌ Trying to clean the contacts of the old relay with sandpaper (breaks the silver coating).
  • ❌ Poor fixation of wires in the terminals (causes sparking).
  • ❌ Ignoring the state of the starting capacitor (if it is in the circuit).
  • ❌ Installing the relay without checking the direction of the arrow UP.

Prevention and care of electrical equipment

To extend the life of the new relay and your compressor Stinol 103, it is important to ensure good operating conditions. The main enemy of electrics is dust and moisture. Regularly, at least once a year, clean the compressor area, removing dust from the radiator and parts with a soft brush.

Also keep an eye on the ventilation. If the refrigerator is located close to a wall or in a niche where heat exchange is disrupted, the compressor will overheat. This leads to insulation degradation and accelerated wear of the starting equipment. Leave a gap of at least 5-7 cm from the back wall to the furniture.

⚠️ Attention: Characteristics and connection diagrams may vary slightly depending on the year of manufacture of your Stinol 103 model. Always check the markings on the compressor nameplate and the old relay before purchasing a new one.

Voltage stability in the network is another key factor. If your light fluctuates frequently, consider installing a voltage relay or stabilizer. This will protect not only the refrigerator, but also other household appliances in the house.

Is it possible to use a relay from another brand?

Yes, you can, if the geometric dimensions, contact locations and rated current match. However, original relays (for example, Danfoss or Indesit for Stinol) guarantee full compliance with the engine characteristics.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why does a new relay immediately burn out after installation?

This can happen for several reasons: incorrect orientation of the part (not up), short circuit in the compressor windings, lack of clearance between the contacts inside the relay or critically low voltage in the network, which is why the starting phase is delayed.

How to distinguish the starting relay from the protective relay?

In older Stinol 103 models they can be separated. The starting relay (RT) is responsible for connecting the starting winding, and the protective relay (RP) is responsible for breaking the circuit in case of current overload. In modern combined devices (CDDs), these functions are combined in one housing.

Is it possible to start a refrigerator without a relay?

Theoretically, you can start the engine by applying voltage directly to the starting winding for a short time, but doing this is strictly not recommended without special skills. This is life-threatening and can permanently damage the compressor.

Where can I find the markings for a suitable relay?

The markings are applied to the side edge or top of the plastic housing of the old relay. Look for designations like RTK-1-3, 335636, 12520020 or manufacturer codes like Danfoss 101N0102.

Do you need to change the capacitor when replacing the relay?

If your circuit has a starting capacitor, it is advisable to check it for capacity and replace it if there is swelling or deviation of parameters. An old capacitor can cause the new relay to quickly fail.