Sudden stoppage of the compressor or a characteristic click followed by a humming sound, but not starting the engine, often indicates a failure of the starting mechanism. Equipment owners Stinol face this problem regularly, since this particular unit is subject to high current loads. Replacing a relay on a Stinol refrigerator is a procedure that can be performed at home with a minimum set of tools and basic electrical skills.
Timely diagnosis and replacement of a faulty part allows you to avoid more expensive repairs, such as rewinding the compressor windings or its complete replacement. Start relay responsible for short-term supply of voltage to the starting motor winding, providing the necessary torque for starting. If this element burns out, the compressor either does not start at all or makes a loud hum, after which the thermal protection is triggered.
It is important to understand that before starting any work it is necessary to completely de-energize the unit. Working with electrical components requires compliance with safety precautions. In this article, we will analyze the algorithm of actions in detail, help determine the type of malfunction and select the correct analogue of the burnt part for models Stinol 101, 102, 103, 104 and other modifications.
Diagnostics of a faulty start relay
The first sign of a breakdown is often a change in the sound of the refrigerator. Instead of the usual steady hum, you may hear a series of clicks followed by silence. This indicates that the compressor is trying to start, receives an impulse, but due to the lack of phase on the starting winding, it cannot gain momentum. A thermal protection relay built into the circuit detects the overcurrent and breaks the contact.
For accurate diagnosis, it is necessary to gain access to the compressor, which is usually located in the lower rear part of the case. Remove the protective cover by unscrewing the retaining screws or releasing the latches. A visual inspection may reveal obvious signs of thermal damage: blackening of the plastic, melting of contacts, or a characteristic burning smell. However, even an apparently serviceable part may have an internal break.
- 🔍 Symptom 1: The compressor hums for 3-5 seconds, then a click is heard and silence sets in (the cycle is repeated after a few minutes).
- 🔥 Symptom 2: The housing of the starting device is very hot or has traces of soot and reflow.
- ⚡ Symptom 3: When the removed relay is rocked, a knock is heard inside (typical for inductive models with a broken core).
The most reliable way to check is to test the contacts with a multimeter resistance measurement mode. For a working device, the resistance between certain contacts should be close to zero or several ohms, depending on the type of design. If the device shows one (infinity), it means that the circuit is broken and the part must be replaced.
Necessary tools and preparation of the workplace
Before proceeding with dismantling, you should organize a comfortable workspace. You will need good lighting as the compressor niche is often dark. Prepare all the necessary tools in advance so as not to be distracted while working. This will speed up the process and reduce the risk of losing small fasteners.
To replace the relay, you will need a standard DIY kit. The main tool will be a screwdriver, most often a Phillips screwdriver, but in some models Stinol there may be slotted screws. Also, do not forget about pliers for removing the fixing brackets, if they are provided for in the design.
☑️ Preparation for repair
A critical tool is a multimeter (tester). Without it, it is impossible to accurately diagnose the condition of not only the relay, but also the compressor itself. If you do not have this device, its purchase will pay off during the first successful repair, as it will be useful for checking the integrity of the wires and the presence of voltage in the outlet.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to carry out work on replacing electrical components while the power cord is plugged into the outlet. Even after turning off the button on the thermostat, the voltage at the compressor terminals remains. Always unplug the plug from the network before starting dismantling.Relay types and selection of spare parts for Stinol
Refrigerators Stinol, especially popular in the CIS models of the 100, 101, 102 series, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 110, 116, 117, 118, 119, were equipped with compressors from various manufacturers. The most common units were Danfoss (now Secop), Aspera (Embraco) and domestic Biryusa or Atlant. For each type of engine, a specific starting device is used.
The main difference lies in the principle of operation. For Danfoss and Aspera compressors, induction (electromagnetic) relays of the
101N,102N,103N,104N,105N,106N,107N,108Nseries are used. They work due to the magnetic field of the coil, which, when the starting current is applied, draws in the core and closes the contacts. For other motors, posistor (thermal) relays can be used, where the closure occurs due to heating of a special element.How to decipher the relay markings?
The numbers in the marking (for example, 101N) indicate the range of starting currents for which the device is designed. Using a relay with a lower number will result in it not being able to start a powerful compressor. Using a large number may not open the circuit in time, which is dangerous for the windings.
When purchasing a new part, pay attention not only to brand compatibility, but also to the markings. Often there is a code on the body of the old relay that can be used to find an analogue. If the code is not readable, rely on the compressor power indicated in the technical documentation of the refrigerator or on the engine nameplate.
| Start-up protection relay RKT/RTP | Stinol (with domestic motor) | Thermal/Posistor |
Compressor type Relay series (Danfoss/Secop) Characteristic Stinol models Operation principle Small power 101N, 102N Stinol 101, 102, 103 Induction Medium power 103N, 104N, 105N Stinol 104, 105, 106, 107 Induction High power 106N, 107N, 108N Stinol 110, 116, 118, 119 Induction Atlant/Biryusa The process of dismantling the old relay
After you are convinced of the malfunction and purchased a new part, you can begin removal. Carefully move the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the back panel. Remove the cardboard or plastic cover covering the compressor area. You will see a view of a black cylindrical or pear-shaped compressor tank with a box attached to it.
First you need to remove the retaining bracket or bar that presses the relay to the compressor body. It is usually secured with one screw or simply inserted into the grooves. Be careful not to damage the copper pipes of the refrigeration circuit, which may be located in the immediate vicinity.
Then disconnect the block with wires. In some models Stinol the wires fit directly to the relay terminals without an intermediate connector. In this case, remember or photograph the connection diagram. Standard marking of terminals on the compressor:
C(general),R(working winding),S(starting winding). The relay fits directly onto the compressor pins.To remove the relay itself, grab it by the body and pull it towards you with a rocking motion. It should come off the compressor pins. If it has become stuck due to time and temperature, do not use excessive force - it is better to slightly warm the plastic case with a hairdryer or carefully pry it off with a flat screwdriver, trying not to damage the contacts.
Installing a new starting relay
Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. First, make sure the new relay is oriented correctly. There is usually a marking on the body
UPor an arrow indicating the top position. For induction relays, this is critically important: if you turn the device upside down, the core will not be able to fall under the influence of gravity, and the contacts will not open after startup.Push the relay onto the three pins of the compressor until it stops. It should fit tightly and not wobble. If you are using a universal relay with the adapters included in the kit, first install the adapter on the compressor contacts, and then put on the relay block itself. Make sure that the contacts fit into the sockets smoothly, without distortions.
Next, connect the wires. If you had a pad, just insert it until it clicks. If the wires are individual, place the terminals on the corresponding relay pins. Check the reliability of the connection by lightly pulling the wire (not the insulation, but the metal part of the terminal).
The final stage of installation is fixation with a clamping bar or bracket. Reinstall it and tighten the screw. Do not overtighten the fasteners to avoid cracking the plastic housing of the relay. After this, you can rock the compressor by hand (with the power off) to make sure that the relay is not loose.
Checking operation and first start
After installing all components, the crucial moment comes - the first start. Plug in the refrigerator. In the first seconds you will hear the hum of the compressor, which after 1-3 seconds should turn into a smooth, confident hum. The click of the starting winding turning off at this moment may not be heard, since modern relays operate quite quietly, but the nature of the sound will change.
If the compressor starts and works, check the heating of the new relay housing. After 10-15 minutes of operation, it may warm up slightly, but should not be hot. If you smell burning plastic or see sparking, immediately unplug the appliance. This may indicate incorrect installation or a mismatch in the type of engine power relay.
- ✅ Normal: Smooth hum, vibration within normal limits, no extraneous knocks.
- ❌ Pathology: Humming followed by a click and stopping (the relay does not hold or does not opens).
- 🔥 Danger: Smoke, sparks, strong burning smell (turn off immediately!).
Let the refrigerator operate for about an hour without loading food. During this time, it should gain temperature and turn off at the command of the thermostat. If the cycle was successful and the compressor stopped on its own and then started again after some time, the repair can be considered complete.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the relay the compressor hums, but does not start, and at the same time gets very hot, the motor-compressor itself may be jammed. In this case, replacing the relay will not help - professional repair or replacement of the compressor will be required. Do not try to forcefully twist the shaft or knock on the housing.Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a universal relay instead of the original Stinol?
Yes, you can. There are universal kits that fit most compressors up to 1/3 HP. They are often equipped with a set of adapter terminals. The main thing is to make sure that the current range of the universal relay covers the characteristics of your engine.
Why did the relay burn out? What could be the reason?
The main reasons: frequent power surges in the network, wear of the compressor itself (increased starting currents due to oil aging and mechanical wear), poor contact in the electrical wiring of the refrigerator or simply the natural service life of the part.
How much does it cost to replace a relay in a compared to DIY service?
Replacement yourself will cost you only the cost of the part (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles). At the service center, the cost of the spare part will be added to the cost of the technician and the visit, which can increase the amount by 2-3 times.
Do you need to wait after turning off the refrigerator before turning it on?
Yes, if you have manipulated the compressor, it is advisable to wait 5-10 minutes before turning it on again. This is necessary to equalize the pressure in the system and cool down the thermal protection, if it has already worked.
📊 What problem did you encounter when replacing the relay?I couldn’t remove the old relay: The new one didn’t fit in size: I mixed up the wires: Everything went smoothly