Refrigerant for the refrigerator: which one to choose, how to refill and what to do if there is a leak

Has the refrigerator stopped freezing, the compressor is running non-stop, and frost has appeared on the back wall? The reason may lie in a leak of refrigerant - a substance that circulates through the system and removes heat from the chamber. But how do you understand what refrigerant is pumped into your refrigeratorwhether you can top it up yourself and what are the dangers of using the wrong freon? In this article, we will look at the types of refrigerants, their features for different models (Indesit, Atlant, Samsung, LG etc.), and also give step-by-step instructions for diagnostics and replacement.

Modern refrigerators operate on three refrigerants generations: R12 (outdated, prohibited in new models), R134a (the most common) and R600a (environmentally friendly, but flammable). The choice depends not only on the year of manufacture of the equipment, but also on the design of the compressor, the type of evaporator and even the climate class. For example, No Frost is often used R134a, and in compact models (Midea, Beko) — R600a. An error in choosing a refrigerant can lead to compressor failure or even a fire!

Important: if you are not a refrigeration equipment specialist, it is better to entrust the filling of refrigerant to a specialist - in 80% of cases the leak is accompanied by depressurization of the circuit, which cannot be eliminated without soldering work and evacuation of the system.. However, knowledge of the types of freons will help you control the work of the service center and avoid deception (for example, when instead of the original one R600a they fill in a cheap one R134a).

1. Types of refrigerants in refrigerators: comparison table

Refrigerants differ in chemical composition, pressure in the system and environmental standards. Below are the current types of freons that are used in household refrigerators after 2010. We will not consider outdated options (R12, R22), since they are prohibited. Montreal Protocol and are not used in modern technology.

⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator was manufactured before 2005, it may contain R12 or R22. These freons are prohibited from production, but they can still be found in service centers. However, refilling them will cost 2-3 times more expensive than switching to a modern one R134a (an oil change and flushing the system will be required).

2. How to determine the type of refrigerant in your refrigerator

Manufacturers indicate the type of freon on nameplate (a metal plate) on the back wall of the refrigerator or inside cameras. Look for inscriptions like:

• 🔍 Refrigerant: R134a or Gas: R600a
• 🔍 Coolant Type: Iso-butane (this is R600a)
• 🔍 Climatic Class: SN-T (may indirectly indicate the type of freon)

If the nameplate is worn out or missing, use alternative ones methods:

1. By refrigerator model. Enter the model name (for example, Atlant MHM 1705-80) into the search engine with the request “refrigerant” or “service manual”. Official manuals often contain this information.
2. By year of manufacture.
   • 📅 Until 2000 - most likely R12 or R22.
   • 📅 2000–2010 - R134a.
   • 📅 After 2010 - R600a or R134a (depending on the brand).

By compressor type. If the compressor is brand Embraco or Secop s designation EG or NE, it is designed for R600a. For Danfoss (NL, NF) - usually R134a.

⚠️ Attention: Never determine the type refrigerant by color or smell! R600a (isobutane) has a slight specific odor, but it can be easily confused with a gas leak from the stove. For accurate diagnosis, use leak detector or a pressure manifold.

What does the refrigerant label look like?

Usually it is a metal or paper plate measuring 5x7 cm, located on the back wall of the refrigerator (sometimes inside the chamber, on the side panel):

- Refrigerator model (for example, Samsung RB-30 J3200EF)

- Serial number

- Refrigerant type (Refrigerant: R600a)

- Amount of freon in grams (for example, 60g)

- Climate class (N, SN, T)

- Compressor data (Embraco EG120HL)

If there is no sign, check the compressor pan - sometimes the data is duplicated there.

3. Signs of a refrigerant leak: when it’s time to sound the alarm

Freon leak is one of the most insidious refrigerator malfunctions. It develops gradually, and many users attribute the first symptoms to the “age” of the equipment or voltage drops. It’s time to check the system for leaks: 5 key signs, but the refrigerator does not freeze Normal cycle: 10-15 minutes of operation, 5-10 minutes of rest. hums for hours - this is a sure sign of a leak. 5 Key Signsthat it’s time to check the system for leaks:

• ❄️ The compressor works non-stop, but the refrigerator does not freeze. Normal cycle: 10–15 minutes of work, 5–10 minutes of rest. If the motor hums for hours, this is a sure sign of a leak.
• 🌡️ The temperature in the chamber has risen to +10...+15°C, despite the maximum thermostat settings.
• 💧 Condensation on the back wall (in models with drip system) or ice in the freezer (in No Frost). This is due to a violation of heat exchange.
• 🔊 Hissing or gurgling from under the refrigerator - the sound of gas escaping. noticeable at night.
• 🛠️ Oil on the floor under the compressorIf there is a leak, freon carries with it oil from the system, which drips onto the floor.

🔹 Leakage test: Unplug the refrigerator for 12 hours. will start to freeze, but after a day it will stop again - this is a 100% leak. If it doesn’t freeze at all, the compressor or thermostat may break down.

4. Is it possible to refill the refrigerator yourself?

Theoretically, yes, but in practice it dangerous and ineffective without special equipment. Here's why:

⚠️ Attention: Refrigerants R600a and R290 flammable! Even a small spark (eg from static electricity) can cause a fire. Work should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, away from open fire.

For refueling you will need:

• 🔧 Gauge collector (cost from 3,000 ₽).
• 🧪 Vacuum pump (from 5,000 ₽) - to remove moisture and air from the system.
• 🔥 Torch and solder - if soldering of tubes is needed.
• 🧴 Refrigerant (cylinder price R134a — ~1 500 ₽, R600a — ~2 000 ₽).
• 🛢️ Oil for compressor (synthetic for R134a, polyester for R600a).

🔹 Step-by-step instructions (only for experienced!):

1. Turn off the refrigerator, defrost, drain the water.
2. Find service pipe (copper tube with a cap on the compressor).
3. Connect collector, bleed off the remaining freon (outside!).
4. Connect the vacuum pump, evacuate the system (at least 30 minutes).
5. Fill in the refrigerant, monitoring the pressure using the pressure gauge.
6. Solder the pipe, check the tightness with soap solution.

❌ What not to do:

• 🚫 Fill the system without vacuuming (moisture in the circuit will lead to corrosion).
• 🚫 Use R134a instead R600a (different pressure, the compressor will burn out).
• 🚫 Soldering tubes without nitrogen (metal oxidation).

5. Which refrigerant should you choose for replacement?

If the original freon is not available (for example, R12), it can be replaced with a modern analogue, but with reservations:

🔹 Example: The refrigerator Indesit BIAA 13 2008 was used R134aIf there is a leak, you can refill it R437A, but you will need:

1. Rinse the system nitrogen.
2. Replace filter drier.
3. Add 5-10% more (due to the difference in heat capacity).

⚠️ Attention: If your refrigerator contains R600a (isobutane), under no circumstances replace it with R134aThe pressure in the system is designed for low values, and the compressor simply will not be able to pump! freon. Consequences: motor overheating and failure in 1–2 months.

6. The cost of refilling refrigerant at the service center

The price depends on the type of freon, the complexity of the work and the region. Average prices in Russia in 2026:

• 💰 Leak diagnostics — 1 000–1 500 ₽.
• 💰 Refilling R134a — 2,500–4,000 ₽ (including freon).
• 💰 Refilling R600a — 3,000–5,000 ₽ (due to increased measures safety).
• 💰 Soldering of pipes — 1,500–3,000 RUR per leak point.
• 💰 Replacing the compressor — 5,000–10,000 RUR (if burned out due to improper refueling).

🔹 Advice: Before agreeing on repairs, ask the technician:

1. Show the location of the leak (usually checked soap solution or electronic leak detector).
2. Name the exact type of refrigerant and its quantity (must match the data on the nameplate).
3. Provide a guarantee for the work (minimum 6 months).

⚠️ Attention: If the technician offers to refill R22 instead of R600a "cheaply", refuse! This is a violation of safety regulations and will lead to compressor failure under warranty.

7. Frequently asked questions about refrigerants

❓ Is it possible to mix different types of freons?

No! Mixing will lead to a chemical reaction, an increase in pressure and failure of the compressor. data-i="273">have different viscosity and thermal conductivity - their mixture will not be able to circulate through the system. R134a And R600a have different viscosity and thermal conductivity - their mixture will not be able to circulate through the system.

❓ How often do you need to check the refrigerant level?

Under normal conditions, freon does not evaporate only when there are signs of a leak (see section 3). Preventive diagnostics are recommended once every 5-7 years. for refrigerators older than 10 years.

❓ Why do they use R600a in new refrigerators if it is flammable?

Because of environmental standards. R600a has a minimum GWP (3 versus 1430 y R134aRisk). ignition is minimal - this requires a gas concentration in the air >1.3%, which is impossible in domestic conditions. Manufacturers use sealed circuits and limit the amount of freon (usually 30–60 grams).

❓ What to do if the refrigerator does not freeze after refueling?

Possible reasons:

1. Insufficient filling (check the pressure with a pressure gauge).
2. There is air or moisture left in the system (evacuation must be repeated).
3. Faulty thermostat or temperature sensor.
4. Clogged filter drier (replacement required).

Contact a technician for re-diagnosis.

❓ Is it possible fill the refrigerator with automobile freon?

No! Automotive refrigerants (for example, R134a for air conditioners) contain additives that are incompatible with refrigeration systems. In addition, cars use other oil that can thicken at low temperatures of the refrigerator.