The situation when the refrigerator Candy stops freezing or starts working with unnatural noise, often leaves the owner with a difficult choice. The most common and expensive cause of breakdown lies in the failure of compressor the “heart” of the refrigeration unit. Owners often wonder which engine is suitable for replacement, whether it is possible to use an analogue or whether it is necessary to look for the original, and whether it is even worth doing this on their own.
The market for spare parts for household appliances is overflowing with offers, but not all of them are of equal quality. The equipment of the Italian brand Candy is characterized by the use of different types of motors depending on the year of manufacture and model series. In some cases these are classic piston units, in others they are modern inverter systems. An error in selection can lead to the fact that the new compressor will not start, will work inefficiently, or will quickly burn out, damaging the control system.
In this article we will look in detail at how to determine the type of faulty unit, which parameters are critical when selecting a replacement, and in which cases saving on spare parts is unacceptable. We will look at technical nuances that are often ignored by general specialists, but are critical for the long life of your refrigerator.
Main types of compressors in Candy refrigerators
To understand what kind of compressor your refrigerator needs Candy, you must first understand the classification of engines that the manufacturer installed in different years. Historically, the brand has used both its own developments and third-party solutions from leading manufacturers.
The most common type is piston compressors with a crank mechanism. They are distinguished by their reliability, simplicity of design and relatively low cost. In older models Candy motors with a starting relay were often found, which emit a characteristic click when starting. Modern models are increasingly equipped with quieter and energy-efficient units.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to replace a piston compressor with a rotary one without redoing the entire piping system and changing the electrical circuit. These are different physical operating principles that require different pressures and types of refrigerant.
The second type is inverter compressors. They work without constant stops, smoothly regulating power. If your refrigerator Candy belongs to the premium segment or was released in the last 5-7 years, the likelihood of having an inverter is very high. Such motors are more difficult to diagnose and require a special tester to check the windings.
How to determine the model and characteristics of the engine
Before looking for a replacement, you need to accurately identify the failed unit. Just knowing that you have a refrigerator Candyis not enough. On the body of each compressor there is a sticker or embossed marking containing all the necessary information.
First of all, you should be interested in model number (Part Number). It usually begins with letters indicating the manufacturer (for example, Aspera, Secop, Embraco or Danfoss), and contains a digital code. The following parameters are also critically important:
- 🔌 Power: measured in horsepower (HP) or watts (W), must correspond to the volume of the chambers.
- ❄️ Refrigerant type: R134a, R600a (isobutane) or R12 (in older models), replacing one with another is prohibited.
- ⚡ Voltage: for Russia and the CIS this is standard 220-240V, but there are exceptions for American versions.
- 📏 Dimensions and seats: the distance between the mounting legs may differ even for those of similar power motors.
For an accurate selection, you often need to remove the back cover of the refrigerator and take a photo of the nameplate. If the sticker is erased or damaged, you will have to select an analogue based on power and dimensions, which requires professional knowledge.
Compatibility table and popular analogues
Original compressors for Candy are becoming increasingly difficult to find, since factory supplies of spare parts may be limited. Fortunately, the market offers many high-quality analogues. The main rule: the analogue must be equal to or slightly exceed the original in terms of cooling capacity.
Below is a table of correspondence between popular models of compressors, which are often installed in refrigerators Candy of various series. Please note that compatibility depends not only on the brand, but also on the specific engine series.
| Original brand | Model range (example) | Recommended analogue | Power (W) | Refrigerant |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aspera (Embraco) | NL6FT, NL7FT | Secop (Danfoss) BD35F | 100-120 | R134a |
| Secop (Danfoss) | TL55CLC, TL65CLC | Embraco T65CL | 140-160 | R134a |
| GMCC (Toshiba) | R600a series | Secop SC series | 80-100 | R600a |
| Invensys | Old models | Aspera NE series | 110-130 | R134a |
When choosing an analogue, pay attention to starting device. In some cases it comes included, in others it needs to be replaced from the old motor. Make sure that the diameters of the suction and discharge tubes (fittings) match, otherwise you will have to do unnecessary soldering and adjustment.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics of compressors may vary slightly by the manufacturer depending on the batch. Always check the diameter of the fittings and the connection diagram before purchasing at a specific spare parts store.
Diagnostics: replacement or repair?
Before buying a new compressor, you need to make sure that the problem is in it, and not in the control system or freon leak. Often users mistakenly blame the motor when in fact the capillary is clogged or the relay is faulty.
Primary diagnostics include a visual inspection and listening to the operation of the unit. If the engine hums but does not start, or starts for a couple of seconds and turns off with a click, these are signs of a problem with the start relay or a jammed piston group. If the compressor is silent and does not make any sounds when plugged in, the winding may have burned out or there is no power.
Checking the resistance of the windings using a multimeter is a mandatory step. Normal readings for different contacts (starting, operating winding and common wire) must be within certain limits. An open circuit or short circuit (resistance close to zero) indicates a fatal malfunction.
Instructions for replacing the compressor yourself
Replacing a compressor in a refrigerator Candy is a complex technical process that requires special tools and skills in working with refrigeration equipment. Simply “unscrewing and screwing” will not work here, since the system must be absolutely sealed.
The process begins with complete Removing the refrigerant. In a workshop, this is done through a puncture of the fitting with connection to the station. At home, this stage is often ignored, which is a gross violation of environmental and safety standards. Next, the old motor is dismantled: the copper tubes are cut and the wires are unsoldered.
Installation of a new unit requires careful preparation:
- The new compressor is unpacked only immediately before installation to avoid moisture ingress.
- Transport plugs are removed at the last moment.
- The connections are soldered using nitrogen purge (or at least thorough purge with freon itself) so that copper oxide does not form inside.
- The system is vacuumized for 15-20 minutes to remove moisture and air.
- A precisely calculated amount of refrigerant is charged according to the scale.
After starting, it is necessary to control the current consumption. If it exceeds the nominal value indicated on the tag, then there are problems in the system (air, excess oil, compressor malfunction).
⚠️ Attention: Working with refrigerants requires a license in many countries. Self-filling “by eye” often leads to rapid failure of the new compressor due to water hammer or overheating.
Frequent errors during selection and installation
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring type of oil. Systems with R134a Freon use synthetic polyester oil (POE), which is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). In systems with R600a - mineral or semi-synthetic. Mixing oils or using the wrong type will lead to the formation of acid and blockage of the capillary system.
The second mistake is installing a compressor with a larger capacity “with a reserve”. Many people think that the more powerful the engine, the better the cold. In fact, an overly powerful engine will not have time to build up the required pressure in the condenser or, conversely, will create excessive vacuum in the evaporator, which will lead to freezing and breakdown.
The third mistake is saving on filter driers. Each time the system is opened (compressor replaced), the filter drier required is replaced with a new one. The old filter is already saturated with moisture and will not be able to protect the system from ice jams.
Is it possible to install a compressor from another brand, for example, from Atlant or Indesit?
Yes, it is possible if the overall dimensions, power, type of refrigerant and electrical parameters match. The brand of the compressor manufacturer (be it Secop, Embraco or Chinese analogues) is less important than its technical characteristics. However, mounting brackets may differ, and you will have to make adapter strips.
How much does it cost to replace a compressor in a service compared to doing it yourself?
Independent replacement will cost the cost of spare parts (from 5,000 to 15,000 rubles) and tools, if they are not available. In the service, the work of a technician, a visit, evacuation and refilling with freon can double or triple this amount, but will provide a guarantee of the tightness of the system.
Why does a new compressor get hotter than the old one?
Modern compressors often operate at higher case temperatures due to increased energy efficiency and the use of new generation refrigerants. If the temperature does not exceed 90-100°C and the refrigerator freezes, this is normal. If it gets red hot, the problem is overload or airing.
Is it necessary to flush the system when replacing a compressor?
If the old compressor burned out ("fired" when opened) or there was a lot of black oil in the system, flushing with nitrogen is mandatory. Otherwise, combustion products will get into the new motor and clog the capillary, which will lead to a second breakdown in a couple of months.