Owners of brand refrigeration equipment Stinol often face the need to understand the technical structure of the unit, especially when extraneous noise appears or one of the chambers stops freezing. Compressor is the heart of any refrigeration system, and the safety of products depends on its serviceability. Understanding exactly what type of motor is installed in your model is critical for the correct selection of spare parts and avoiding errors during repairs.
The model range of these refrigerators is quite wide, and over many years of production they have used different types of engines, which creates a certain confusion. Some users mistakenly believe that all models have the same unit, but this is not the case. In this article we will analyze in detail which pumps were used by the manufacturer, how to determine their type and what to do in case of failure.
Correct identification of the component will allow you to save significant money on the services of service centers if you decide to replace it yourself. However, it is worth remembering that working with refrigerants and electrical circuits requires certain qualifications and caution. Diagnostics must be carried out with the power turned off to avoid electric shock.
Types of compressors using Stinol technology
In refrigerators Stinol, which were produced mainly in Lipetsk, but based on Italian technologies, two main types of compressors were used. The first and most common option is piston a mechanism that operates on a reciprocating principle. Such units are reliable, but can be somewhat noisy in operation compared to modern analogues.
The second type, which was less common and in later or specific models, is inverter or linear motor, although for classic Stinolov this is the exception rather than the rule. The bulk consists of classic sealed units, in which the electric motor and compressor part are located in one housing, filled with oil. Important: In 95% of cases, old Stinol models have Danfoss (later Secop) or Atlant compressors.
Differences also lie in the type of refrigerant the unit is designed to work with. Early models could use freon R-12, which is now prohibited for use due to environmental friendliness, and newer ones switched to R-134a. Replacing a compressor requires strict compliance with the type of refrigerant, since the oils in these systems are different and do not mix with each other.
⚠️ Attention: Never mix mineral oil (for R-12) and polyester oil (for R-134a/R-600a). This will lead to the formation of an acidic environment and rapid failure of the new compressor.
You can determine the type of your motor by the factory sticker located on the unit itself, or by technical documentation. If the sticker is erased or painted over, you will have to rely on the year of manufacture and model of the refrigerator. Often in models with one compressor and system No Frost more powerful modifications are used.
How to determine the model of the installed compressor
To accurately select spare parts, it is not enough to know only the brand of the refrigerator. It is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and decipher the markings. First of all, you need to gain access to the rear wall of the unit where the compressor compartment is located. Usually it is closed with a metal or plastic cover, which should be carefully removed.
On the body of the compressor itself (the metal “barrel”) there is a factory tag or embossed marking. This is where the key parameters are indicated: manufacturer, model, supply voltage and type of refrigerant. Look for abbreviations Danfoss, Secop, Aspera or Atlant. These brands were the main suppliers for the Stinol plant.
If the tag is missing or unreadable, you can focus on the appearance and dimensions. Compressors Danfoss series TL or BD have a characteristic elongated body and specific fastening of the legs. Units Atlant are often shorter and have a different tube configuration. It is also important to count the number of turns of the starting winding if it is possible to look inside the contact group, but this is a task for more experienced craftsmen.
The table below shows the main characteristics of the most common models of compressors in Stinol refrigerators, which will help you navigate the variety of options:
| Manufacturer | Series/Model | Refrigerant type | Power (W) | Volume (cm³) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Danfoss (Secop) | TL 4G / 5G | R-134a | 115-140 | 8.91 |
| Danfoss (Secop) | BD 35F | R-134a | 100 | 6.2 |
| Atlant | CT-110 | R-134a | 120 | 11.2 |
| Aspera | NE 1210 | R-134a | 125 | 12.1 |
| Embraco | EG 80 | R-134a | 130 | 12.5 |
Please note that power and volume may vary slightly depending on the specific modification. If you are changing a compressor, try to select an analogue with the characteristics as close as possible, especially in terms of cylinder volume. Installing a motor that is too powerful can lead to incomplete evaporation of the refrigerant and liquid entering the compressor, which will cause its breakdown.
Symptoms of malfunction and the need for replacement
You can understand that the compressor requires replacement or repair by a number of indirect and direct signs. The most obvious symptom is when the refrigerator turns on, runs for a few seconds or minutes, and then turns off with a characteristic click, after which it tries to start again. This phenomenon is called “cyclic start” and often indicates interturn short circuit in the windings or jamming of the mechanism.
Another common symptom is the continuous operation of the motor without shutting down, in which the temperature in the chambers does not drop to the set values. In this case, the compressor may wear out, trying to compensate for the freon leak or loss of performance. It is also worth paying attention to casing temperature: if it heats up to the point where it is impossible to touch it, this is an alarming signal.
Why does the compressor heat up?
Strong heating (above 80-90 degrees) may indicate refrigerant circulation is disrupted, the capillary tube is clogged, or the engine is operating in overload mode due to low voltage.
Extraordinary sounds are also an indicator of problems. If you hear metallic knocking, clanging, or a loud hum that wasn't there before, the internal shock absorbers or bearings have most likely failed. In some cases, the compressor may simply hum, but not start, which often indicates a malfunction start relay, and not the motor itself.
Before buying a new unit, it is necessary to exclude simpler causes:
- 💡 Check the integrity of the seal doors, since the suction of warm air causes the compressor to work without interruption.
- 💡 Make sure that the thermostat is working properly and calibrates the temperature correctly.
- 💡 Inspect the starting relay for carbon deposits or mechanical damage.
- 💡 Check the voltage in the electrical network, as it is low the voltage does not allow the engine to gain speed.
Preparing to replace the compressor with your own hands
Replacing the compressor in the refrigerator Stinol is a complex technical process that requires special equipment and skills. Not only will you need a new motor, but you will also need tools to work with copper tubing. The main tools are burner (gas or oxygen-acetylene), pipe cutter, rolling and vacuum pump.
The first step is always to completely disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Then it is necessary to drain the old oil from the burnt out compressor to assess its condition. If the oil is dark, has a burning smell, or contains metal shavings, this means that the system is contaminated with combustion products. In this case, simply replacing the compressor will not help - you will need flushing the entire circuit system.
☑️ Preparation for replacement
It is also important to prepare the workplace. Replacement should be done in a well-ventilated area, as refrigerant vapors and oil combustion products can be harmful. Purchase all the necessary consumables in advance: solder, flux, filter driers and, of course, the refrigerant itself. It is absolutely impossible to start the system without a filter-drier, since moisture will quickly damage the new compressor.
If you do not have the skills to work with open fire and solder copper, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. Improper soldering may result in gas leakage or even fire. In addition, to refill the system, an exact amount of freon is required, which is selected by scale, and not “by eye.”
Technology for dismantling and installing a new unit
The dismantling process begins with cutting the copper tubes suitable for the compressor. You cannot use a hacksaw, as it leaves chips that will clog the system. Use only special pipe cutter, which gives an even cut without deformation. After cutting the tubes, the old compressor can be removed from the niche by first unscrewing the mounting bolts and removing the rubber shock absorbers.
Installation of a new compressor begins with preparing its tubes. It is necessary to install copper adapters (fittings) for soldering on the suction and discharge tubes of the new motor. Soldering is done using silver solder or special copper solder with flux. It is important not to overheat the connection so that oxides do not form inside the tube.
⚠️ Attention: When soldering, be sure to keep the torch flame pointed at the tube and not at the compressor housing. Overheating of the housing can damage the internal insulation of the windings or melt the plastic elements.
After soldering the tubes and installing a new filter-drier, it is necessary to evacuate the system. For this purpose, vacuum pumpis used, which is connected to the process pipe. The pumping time should be at least 15-20 minutes to remove moisture and air. The residual pressure should be close to zero.
Only after evacuation is the system charged with refrigerant. The amount of freon is strictly regulated for each model and is indicated on the refrigerator tag. It is better to refill while the compressor is running, monitoring the current consumption with an ammeter and the temperature of the condenser.
Common mistakes during replacement and expert advice
One of the most common mistakes is ignoring purging the system with nitrogen. If combustion products of old oil remain in the circuit, they will mix with the new oil and form acid, which will corrode the windings of the new compressor in a matter of months. Blowing nitrogen under pressure allows you to wash out all contaminants from the evaporator and condenser tubes.
Another mistake is using an inappropriate analogue compressor. Some craftsmen install higher-power motors, believing that “you can’t spoil the porridge with oil.” In practice, this leads to the fact that the evaporator does not have time to give off heat, and liquid freon enters the compressor, causing water hammer. Always try to maintain the original power.
They also often forget to check the condition of the condenser (the grille at the back of the refrigerator). If it is clogged with dust or deformed, heat transfer efficiency drops and the compressor operates overload. Before installing a new unit, be sure to clean the condenser from dust and check the integrity of its tubes.
You should not skimp on the quality of spare parts. Cheap Chinese compressors of unknown brands often have low power and a short service life. It's better to choose a proven brand, such as Secop, Danfoss or Atlanteven if it costs a little more. This will ensure long and stable operation of your refrigerator. Stinol.
Is it possible to replace the R-12 compressor with R-134a in the old Stinol?
Technically this is possible, but it requires a complete flushing of the system from mineral oil and replacing the oil with polyester oil (POE). You will also need to replace the filter drier with one compatible with R-134a. Simply replacing the compressor without flushing will lead to rapid failure.
Why does the new compressor hum loudly?
The humming can be caused by improper installation (tubes touching the housing or walls of the niche), lack of rubber shock absorbers, or a defect in the unit itself. Also, the reason may be overtightening of the mounting bolts, which transmits vibration to the refrigerator body.
How much does it cost to replace a compressor during a service?
The cost consists of the price of the compressor itself, the cost of the refrigerant, the filter-drier and the work of the technician. On average, this can range from 50% to 80% of the cost of a new refrigerator, so it often makes sense to evaluate the economic feasibility of repairs.
Is it necessary to change the thermostat when replacing a compressor?
Not necessary if the old thermostat is working. However, if the refrigerator is old, it makes sense to check the thermostat contacts, since they could have burned out from frequent switching on of the old, faulty compressor.