Replacing the thermostat in the Atlant two-chamber refrigerator: instructions with photos and nuances

The thermostat (or thermostat) is the “brain” of the refrigerator, which controls the temperature in the chambers and controls the operation of the compressor. When it fails, the refrigerator Atlant may stop freezing, work without stopping, or, conversely, turn off too often. In two-chamber models MHM-1705, MHM-1842 or MXM-2835 replacing the thermostat is a task of medium complexity that can be completed independently if you act carefully.

Many users are afraid to get into the refrigerator's electrical system, but in practice the procedure comes down to turning off the power, dismantling the old part and connecting a new one according to the color marking of the wires. The main thing is not to mix up the contacts and not damage the capillary tube that goes from the thermostat to the evaporator. In this article we will look at how to determine the malfunction, select an analogue and install the thermostat without errors.

⚠️ Important: If your refrigerator Atlant is under warranty, self-repair will void it. In this case, contact the service center - replacing the thermostat will cost less than losing warranty service.

Signs of a faulty thermostat in the Atlant refrigerator

The thermostat does not break down immediately - usually it “leaving” is accompanied by a number of symptoms that can be noticed in advance. Here are the most common symptoms:

  • 🔴 The refrigerator does not turn off — the compressor runs continuously, even if the door is closed, and the food in the freezer is covered with a thick layer of ice. This indicates that the thermostat is “stuck” in the “on” position.
  • ❄️ The temperature in the chambers does not match settings —for example, in the refrigerator compartment +10°C when set to +4°C, or the freezer defrosts by itself.
  • 🔌 The compressor does not start —the refrigerator is “silent”, the light inside is on, but there is no cooling. The thermostat may have broken the power circuit.
  • 🔄 Clicks without starting the engine —characteristic sounds of the relay operation are heard, but the compressor does not start. This may indicate a break in the thermostat.

Sometimes similar symptoms are caused by other malfunctions: freon leak, compressor failure or start relay. To accurately diagnose the problem, you can test the thermostat with a multimeter (more on this below) or temporarily short-circuit its contacts for a test. If the compressor starts working after a short circuit, the thermostat is to blame.

💡 Tip: Before replacing the thermostat, make sure that the problem is not in the door seal. Do a test with a sheet of paper - if it easily pulls out when the door is closed, the seal is broken and the cold escapes out.

📊 Does your Atlant refrigerator behave like this?
Works without stopping
Doesn't freeze in general
It clicks, but does not turn on
The temperature fluctuates
Another option

Which thermostat is suitable for Atlant two-chamber refrigerators

In most two-chamber models Atlant (series MHM, NRM, NB) domestically produced thermostats are installed TAM-133 or its analogues: TAM-125, TAM-145. They are interchangeable in fasteners and connectors, but may differ in the length of the capillary tube and the range of temperature adjustment.

When choosing a new thermostat, pay attention to:

  • 🔧 Refrigerator model — for Atlant MHM-1705 suitable TAM-133-1M, and for MXM-2835TAM-145 with an extended tube.
  • 🔌 Number of contacts —the original thermostats have 4 of them (for connecting to the compressor, lamp and relay), but in some modifications there may be 3 or 5.
  • 📏 Length of the capillary tube —it must match the original one (usually 1.2–1.8 m). If the tube is shorter, it can be extended, but cannot be lengthened - this will interfere with the accuracy of the measurements.
Refrigerator model Suitable thermostat Notes
Atlant MKhM-1705, MKhM-1708 TAM-133-1M Standard tube length 1.5 m, 4 contacts
Atlant MKhM-1842, MKhM-1846 TAM-125-1M Suitable for models with mechanical control
Atlant MKhM-2835, NRM-2006 TAM-145 Tube 1.8 m, may require bending during installation
Atlant NB-220, NB-240 K59-L2433 (imported analogue) More expensive than domestic ones, but more durable

🔍 Where to buy? Original thermostats THERE are sold in refrigerator spare parts stores (for example, Rembyttekhnika, Holod-Service) or on marketplaces. Price - from 800 to 1500 rubles. Imported analogues (Danfoss, Ranco) will cost 2-3 times more, but their quality is higher.

⚠️ Attention: Before purchasing, check the markings on the old thermostat with the new part. Even if the models are the same, modifications may differ (for example, TAM-133-1M vs TAM-133-2M).

Preparation for replacement: tools and safety measures

To replace the thermostat you will need:

  • ⚒️ Screwdrivers: Phillips (PH2) and flat (3-4 mm) - for dismantling the control panel.
  • 🔧 Pliers or pliers - to carefully remove the spring terminals from the contacts.
  • 📸 Phone or camera - to photograph the wiring diagram.
  • 🧲 Multimeter (not necessary, but useful) - to check the thermostat circuit.
  • 🧴 Alcohol or solvent - to clean contacts from oxidation.

🔌 Safety precautions:

  1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the plug from the socket. Do not limit yourself to the button on the panel - this does not completely de-energize the device!
  2. Defrost the refrigerator 6-8 hours before repair to avoid short circuits due to condensation.
  3. Do not pull the wires - they are fragile and can come off the terminals.
  4. If the capillary tube of the thermostat is bent, do not try to straighten it - this will damage its properties.

📌 Advice: Before starting work, place cardboard or fabric on the floor - when dismantling the panel, small parts (screws, springs).

☑️ What to do before replacing the thermostat

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Step-by-step instructions: how to remove the old thermostat

In two-chamber refrigerators Atlant The thermostat is usually located inside the refrigerator compartment, behind the plastic control panel. Here's how to dismantle it:

  1. Remove the handle. temperature adjustment. It is attached to a latch or a small screw (under a flat screwdriver). Pry it out carefully so as not to break the plastic.
  2. Unscrew the screws of the control panel. Usually there are 2–4 of them: two on top and two on the bottom (can be hidden under decorative plugs).
  3. Remove the panel. Pull it towards you - it can be held on by plastic clips. Do not use excessive force to avoid breaking the fasteners.
  4. Disconnect the wires from the thermostat. Take a photo of their location! The terminals are usually removed with pliers - gently squeeze the clips and pull.
  5. Remove the capillary tube. It is attached to the evaporator (the back wall of the refrigerator) using a clamp or clip. Loosen the fastening and carefully pull out the tube.
  6. Remove the thermostat from the housing. It can be fixed with a screw or simply inserted into the groove.

⚠️ Attention: If during dismantling you notice that the capillary tube is damaged (bent, broken), it cannot be repaired - only a complete replacement of the thermostat. Attempts to solder or glue the tube will lead to incorrect operation of the sensor.

🔍 Diagnostics with a multimeter (optional):

Set the device in circuit test (continuity) mode. At room temperature, the 3 and 4 thermostat contacts should be closed. If there is no circuit, the thermostat is faulty. To fully check, cool it (for example, by putting it in the freezer for 10 minutes) - the contacts should open.

What to do if the wires are oxidized?

If there is a green coating (oxidation) on the thermostat terminals or wires, clean them alcohol and fine sandpaper. It is better to replace severely damaged wires or insulate them with heat-shrinkable tubing.

Installing a new thermostat: diagrams and nuances

Installation of a new part is performed in the reverse order, but there are several critical points:

  1. Connect the wires according to the diagram. Refer to the photograph taken before dismantling. Typical wiring for TAM-133:
    • 🔴 Red/orange - power (phase).
    • 🔵 Blue/black - neutral (zero).
    • 🟢 Green/yellow - compressor.
    • 🟡 Yellow/white - lighting lamp.
  • Lay the capillary tube. It should fit tightly to the evaporator (rear wall of the chamber). Do not allow kinks or tension! Secure it with a clamp in the same place where the old one was.
  • Check operation before assembly. Temporarily connect the refrigerator to the network (without closing the panel) and set the thermostat knob to minimum cooling. The compressor should start in 5-10 minutes.
  • Critical! If after replacing the thermostat the refrigerator works but does not turn off, most likely you have mixed up the wires phases and compressor. Immediately turn off the power and check the circuit!

    📌 Nuances for different models:

    • B Atlant MXM-1705 The thermostat is mounted on one screw, and in MXM-2835 - on latches.
    • In models with No Frost (for example, Atlant NRM-2006) the thermostat can be hidden under the top cover of the chamber.
    • If your model has 5 wires, the fifth (usually brown) goes to the fan or additional relay.

    Checking operation after replacing the thermostat

    After installing the new thermostat, perform the test:

    1. Close the refrigerator and turn it on. Handle set the thermostat to position 2–3 (medium cooling).
    2. Check the start of the compressor. It should turn on within 10-15 minutes. If you hear clicks, but the motor does not start, there may be a connection error or a malfunction of the compressor.
    3. Control the temperature. After 2-3 hours, check with a thermometer: it should be +4...+6°C in the refrigerator compartment, about −18°C in the freezer.
    4. Listen to the operating cycles. The compressor should turn off approximately once every 30–40 minutes (with the door closed). If it works without stopping or turns off too often, the thermostat is selected incorrectly or is faulty.

    ⚠️ Attention: On the first day after replacement, the refrigerator may work longer than usual - this is normal, as it is raising the temperature. But if after 24 hours the cycle has not returned to normal, check the settings or re-diagnose the thermostat.

    🔧 If something went wrong:

    • 🔥 The compressor does not turn on: check the fuse (it can burn if there is a short circuit), the power circuit and the correct connection of the wires.
    • ❄️ The refrigerator is freezing: perhaps the capillary tube has moved and the sensor records a lower temperature than it actually is. Reinstall it.
    • 🔌 The lighting lamp does not work: check the yellow/white wire - it could have come off during assembly.

    Common mistakes when replacing the thermostat and how to fix them avoid

    Even experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. Here are the most common ones:

    • 🔌 Mixed-up wires. For example, if you swap phase and zero, the refrigerator may turn on, but the thermostat will not work correctly. Always check the diagram!
    • 🧊 Damage to the capillary tube. It is very fragile - even a slight bend can damage its properties. Do not pull the tube or twist it.
    • 🔧 Insufficient fixation of the thermostat. If the part is loose, vibration from the compressor can disrupt the contacts. Secure the thermostat with screws or clips.
    • 📉 Wrong choice of model. For example, a thermostat from Atlant MKhM-1705 is not suitable for MKhM-2835 due to the different tube lengths. Always check compatibility!
    • 💦 Ignoring condensation. If you do not dry the refrigerator before use, moisture can cause corrosion of the contacts or a short short circuit.

    💡 Advice: If after replacing the thermostat the refrigerator still does not work, do not rush to blame the new part. First check:

    1. Voltage in the socket (should be 220–230 V).
    2. The integrity of the fuse (it is located on the compressor or in the control circuit).
    3. The operation of the compressor - if it hums but does not start, the problem may be with the start relay.
    ⚠️ Attention: If you are not confident in your electrical skills, it is better to have a professional replace the thermostat. Connection errors can lead to a fire or failure of other components of the refrigerator.

    FAQ: Answers to frequently asked questions

    Is it possible to replace the thermostat in the Atlant refrigerator without defrosting?

    Technically yes, but it's risky. Condensation on wires and metal parts can cause a short circuit. If you don’t have time to wait for defrosting, at least wipe all surfaces with a dry cloth and use a hairdryer to dry the contacts.

    How much does it cost to replace a thermostat in the service?

    In 2026, the average price for replacing a thermostat in refrigerators Atlant is 1500–2500 rubles (including the cost of the part). In the regions, the price may be lower - about 1000–1500 rubles. Self-repair will only cost the price of the thermostat (800–1500 rubles).

    How to check a thermostat without a multimeter?

    You can temporarily short-circuit the wires 3 and 4 (compressor and phase) on the terminal block thermostat. If the refrigerator starts working, the thermostat is faulty. But! Do not leave it in this state for a long time - this can burn the compressor.

    What to do if, after replacing the thermostat, the refrigerator works without stops?

    Probable reasons:

    1. Wires are connected incorrectly (phase and compressor are swapped).
    2. The capillary tube of the thermostat does not touch the evaporator (the sensor detects a high temperature).
    3. New thermostat defective (less often, but it happens).

    Disconnect the refrigerator and check the connection. If everything is correct, replace the thermostat with another one.

    Is the thermostat from the Stinol refrigerator suitable for Atlant?

    No, thermostats Stinol (for example, K59) are incompatible with Atlant on fasteners and connectors. The exception is some models with universal thermostats TAM-145, but they need to be selected according to the length of the tube and the number of contacts.