Faced with a situation where your refrigerator Atlant stops freezing, and the compressor makes only short humming sounds and clicks without starting, many owners immediately begin to panic. However, most often the problem lies not in a burnt-out motor, but in the failure of a small but critical element - the starting relay. This compact unit is responsible for supplying a starting impulse to the motor windings, allowing it to gain the necessary speed for normal operation of the refrigeration circuit.
Understanding exactly where this unit is located and how it functions will allow you to save a significant amount on calling a technician and perform diagnostics or replacement yourself. In most models Atlant refrigerators access to the relay does not require complex dismantling of all equipment; you just need to move the unit away from the wall and remove the back panel. We will analyze in detail all the nuances of search, markings and the algorithm of actions for safe repair.
It is important to understand that ignoring a starter malfunction can lead to overheating of the compressor and its eventual jamming, which will require an expensive replacement of the entire unit. Therefore, if you notice that the motor is trying to start, but immediately stalls, or is completely silent when plugged in, you must immediately check the condition of the electrical circuit. Next, we will look at specific locations depending on the series of equipment.
Functional purpose and symptoms of malfunction
The starting relay is an electromechanical switch that closes the circuit of the compressor starting winding at the time of its start. As soon as the motor rotor reaches a certain rotation speed, the relay opens the contacts, turning off the starting winding, and further work takes place on the working winding. Models Atlant often use devices of the RTP or RSO series, which can be inductive or posistor. Induction models operate due to the magnetic field of a coil that lifts the core, while posistor models use the thermal expansion of a special material to break the circuit.
You can determine that the problem lies in this particular unit by the characteristic symptoms, which manifest themselves almost identically in all modifications of the equipment. If you hear a loud click, followed by a hum that lasts 1-3 seconds, and then another click and silence, this is a classic sign that the relay is unable to start the motor or the thermal release is breaking the circuit due to overload. Sometimes the compressor may be hot to the touch, which indicates attempts to start.
⚠️ Attention: If after several attempts to start the compressor becomes very hot, allow it to cool completely (at least 30-40 minutes) before re-diagnosis, so as not to provoke thermal protection or damage to the windings.In addition sound signals, a malfunction may be indicated by the lack of cold in both chambers when the lighting is on. In some cases, if the contacts inside the relay are stuck in the closed state, the compressor may run continuously without turning off, which will lead to deep freezing of food and the formation of an ice coat even in the systems No Frost. Checking the integrity and mobility of the internal elements of the relay is the first step in diagnostics.
General layout of the unit in different models
Regardless of whether you own a two-chamber refrigerator Atlant 4008, 4500 or a more modern model of the series 6000, the principle of the location of the starter protection device remains united. It is always mounted directly on the compressor housing, which is located at the lower rear of the unit. The relay is put on three contact pins coming out of the motor housing and is fixed either with a special frame-holder or simply by a tight fit on the terminals.
To get to the right place, you do not need to disassemble the inside of the refrigerator compartment or remove the doors. It is enough to disconnect the equipment from the power supply, move it away from the wall at a comfortable distance and gain access to the back wall. Some built-in models may require removal of the plinth panel or trim covering the compressor compartment. Visually, you will see a black, pear-shaped tank - this is the compressor, and a plastic box will be attached to the side or bottom of it.
The location relative to the compressor body may vary: in some models the relay is located on the side, in others - from the bottom, and in others - from the top if the compressor is upside down (although for Atlant a standard vertical installation is typical). Fastening can be done using a metal bracket that covers the relay housing and is screwed to the compressor frame, or with a plastic clamp. It is important to remember or photograph the initial position, since incorrect orientation during assembly can disrupt the operation of the mechanism, especially if there is a movable core inside.
Access to the relay: step-by-step instructions for removing the casing
Before you begin to physically impact the unit, you must strictly follow the electrical safety rules. Unplug the power cord from the outlet and make sure there is no voltage. Only after this can you remove the rear metal panel, which blocks access to the compressor compartment. It is usually secured with several screws around the perimeter, which can be easily unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. In some older models, the panel may be pressed in with latches that require careful bending.
After removing the panel, you will get a full view of the compressor. The relay is usually covered with an additional plastic casing or cover that protects the electrical contacts from dust and moisture. This casing can be removable or integral with the mounting frame. If you see wires going to the black box on the motor, then the protective shield has already been removed or is missing. Be careful not to pull the wires sharply, so as not to damage the insulation or tear off the terminals.
If the relay is covered with a plastic cup, it must be carefully removed. In models Atlant with compressors Secop or Danfoss (which were often used in production), the fastening can be made in the form of a spring bracket. It needs to be slightly pressed or pryed with a flat screwdriver, after which the casing will be removed by moving upwards or to the side. Under the casing you will see the relay box itself and the wires from the thermostat and capacitor going to it.
Types of starting relays in Atlant refrigerators
The manufacturer Atlant over the years of production, he used various types of compressors, respectively, and relays Various modifications were used. The most common devices are the series RTP (Thermal Starting Relay), which combine both starting and thermal protection. They have a characteristic rectangular or slightly rounded plastic body in black or white. Inside such a device there is a bimetallic plate that opens the circuit when overheated, and an electromagnetic coil for starting.
In more modern or specific models, there may be separate starting relays (series RSO, R-1) and separate thermal protections. The starting relay in this case looks like a small cylinder or box with one input and output, often with a posistor inside. PTC relays are more compact, have no moving parts and operate silently, but are more sensitive to current overloads. Determining the type of your relay is critical for selecting an analogue when replacing.
Relay type Series Principle of operation Characteristic feature Induction RTP, RTK Electromagnetic field lifts the core Loud click when starting and shutting down Posistor RSO, MRTP Heating the crystal increases the resistance Silence during operation, it takes time to cool down Combined RTP-1, RT-1 Combines start and thermal protection Most common in old Atlanta Three-pin Universal Connecting to 3 pins compressor Standard for most household models When visually inspecting, pay attention to the markings on the housing. Numbers and letters will tell you the exact modification. For example, marking
RTP-1indicates a universal thermal start relay suitable for many models. If you are planning a replacement, it is best to remove the old device and select exactly the same analogue, since the mounting geometry and contact arrangement may differ even for externally similar parts.The process of dismantling and diagnosing the device
After you have provided access and determined the type of device, you can begin to remove it. The first step is always to disconnect the wires. Do not pull them out by the insulation - grab the terminal itself (chip) and gently loosen it from side to side, while pulling it out. Before doing this, it is strongly recommended to photograph the connection diagram so that during assembly you do not confuse the wires coming from the thermostat and the capacitor.
The relay itself is removed from the compressor pins by moving away from the motor. It can fit quite tightly. Take the device with both hands (or with one hand, holding the relay body, and gently rocking it with the other) and pull strictly perpendicular to the mounting plane. Sharp jerks to the sides are prohibited, as you can break the ceramic insulators of the compressor pins, which will lead to the need to replace the entire unit.
Diagnostics of the removed device is carried out visually and using a multimeter. Shake the relay: if a rattling sound is heard, it means there are broken contacts inside or the core has lost its fixation. When dialing with the tester in the “dialer” position, the contacts should close or open depending on the type of relay and its condition. For posistor relays, the resistance should be low when cold and increase when heated (although it is difficult to check heating with a multimeter, they are usually simply replaced if a malfunction is suspected).
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to disassemble the sealed relay housing to clean the contacts. These devices cannot be repaired and are designed for one-time use. Opening it will disrupt the calibration of the thermal protection.Replacement and installation of a new starting relay
Installation of a new element is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Make sure that the new relay has identical markings or is a direct replacement recommended by the manufacturer. Push the device onto the three pins of the compressor until it stops. It should fit tightly and without distortion. If the relay has a locking frame, install it in place and secure it with a screw or snap it in place.
Connect the wires to the appropriate terminals according to the photograph taken earlier. Usually the wires have color markings or designations (
L,N,C), but you should not rely on color alone, since previous craftsmen may have made changes. Check the reliability of the connection: the terminals should not fall off when slightly pulled.After assembling all the elements, do not rush to immediately close the back panel. Plug in the refrigerator and listen. The compressor should start with a characteristic hum, after a few seconds the relay clicks (if it is induction) and the motor runs smoothly. If the startup was successful and after 10-15 minutes slight cooling appeared in the freezer, the repair can be considered complete. Place the back cover in place and screw it in place.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to start an Atlant refrigerator without a start relay?
Theoretically, you can start an asynchronous compressor motor by applying voltage to the start winding manually through a button, but this extremely dangerous and requires qualifications. Without a relay, the compressor will either not start or will burn out due to overload of the working winding. It is impossible to operate a refrigerator without a working relay.
Why does the new relay click, but the refrigerator does not freeze?
If the relay clicks, but the compressor does not start or hums and turns off, the compressor itself may be faulty (interturn short circuit or wedge). Also, the cause may be a malfunction of the capacitor, which helps in starting, or problems with the thermostat, which does not send a signal to turn on.
Where to buy an original relay for the Atlant refrigerator?
Original components and high-quality analogues (for example, Danfoss, Secop, RTC) are sold in specialized stores of spare parts for household appliances, on radio markets or trusted online stores. When purchasing, pay attention to the current characteristics indicated on the case.
How long does the starting relay last?
The average service life of a high-quality relay is 10-15 years, however, it greatly depends on the stability of the voltage in the network and the number of cycles on/off the refrigerator. Frequent voltage surges can reduce this period to 3-5 years.