The situation when the refrigerator Atlant stops freezing in the upper chamber, and in the lower compartment the food freezes too much or, conversely, spoils, is a classic sign of a serious malfunction in the cooling system. Owners of two-chamber models often encounter the fact that frost freezes only at the back wall or on the evaporator, which is hidden from view, while the shelves remain warm. This is not just an inconvenience, but a signal that refrigerant circulation is broken.
Do not panic and immediately call a technician, since in some cases the problem may lie in trivial things, such as a loosely closed door or lost thermostat settings. However, if you notice that the compressor works without stopping or, conversely, turns on too rarely, and the temperature in the upper compartment rises above +10°C, in-depth diagnostics are required. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical reasons why freon does not flow into the upper part of the chamber.
First, you need to exclude external factors. Check that the back wall is not too close to the food, blocking the air flow, and make sure that the rubber seal around the perimeter of the door is intact. If a visual inspection does not produce results, then the problem lies inside the unit, and here it is important to understand the design of your model: is it single-compressor or double-compressor, since the troubleshooting algorithm depends on this.
Mechanical blockage of the capillary tube
One of the most common reasons why a refrigerator Atlant poor freezing at the top is caused by the formation of a so-called “ice plug” in a bottleneck in the capillary tube. This occurs due to moisture entering the circuit, which crystallizes at low temperatures and cuts off the current freon. As a result, the gas cannot circulate freely through the system and reach the evaporator in the upper chamber, remaining in the condenser or lower part.
A characteristic sign of this malfunction is that the compressor works almost without interruption, trying to catch up with the temperature, but cooling does not occur. Often in such cases, you can hear gurgling sounds or see that the filter drier is covered with frost, although it should normally be warm or at room temperature. It is difficult to eliminate this defect on your own, as it requires vacuuming systems and replacement of the dehumidifier.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours may temporarily remove the ice plug, but the moisture will not go away and will freeze again in a few weeks, blocking the system. Professional nitrogen purging is required.
To combat blockages, technicians use the method of pushing through the circuit with high nitrogen pressure while simultaneously heating the capillary tube. If the reason lies in the oxidation of copper or the ingress of oil breakdown products, a complete replacement of the capillary pipeline may be required, which is a labor-intensive procedure.
Why does moisture form in the system?
Moisture enters the circuit due to poor-quality repairs (poor evacuation), depressurization, or the use of low-quality refrigerant. Even a microscopic amount of water can create an ice plug at a temperature of -20°C.
Refrigerant leakage and depressurization of the circuit
If in your refrigerator Atlant the upper chamber does not freeze, but the lower one works normally or also cools poorly, there is a high probability of a leak. refrigerant. Freon is a substance that circulates in a closed circuit, and its quantity is strictly regulated. If even 20-30% of gas is lost, the pressure in the system drops, and it is not enough to overcome the height and reach the upper evaporator.
Leaks most often occur in places where the tubes are soldered, in the foamed part of the housing (where the tubes pass through the walls) or in the condenser located behind the unit. In models with the system No Frost leak may be in the evaporator, which is located behind the plastic panel. It is rarely possible to determine the location of a leak visually; usually, the use of a leak detector or the “soap bubble” technique is required with the rear casing removed.
- 🔍 The compressor works constantly, trying to compensate for the lack of cold, and gets very hot.
- ❄️ Cooling is completely absent or appears only near the evaporator, but does not spread throughout camera.
- 🔇 The unit may turn on and off more often than usual due to the overheating thermal relay triggering.
It is important to understand that you cannot simply “refill” the refrigerator again. First you need to find the leak, solder it and only then fill the system, observing the exact dosage of gas indicated on the nameplate. Using the wrong type of freon (for example, R600a instead of R134a) can lead to compressor failure.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (for No Frost models)
In refrigerators Atlant with the system No Frost the upper chamber may stop freezing due to ice fouling on the evaporator. Unlike the drip system, here the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel in the freezer (or at the top, depending on the model). If the automatic defrosting system fails, ice freezes on the radiator, blocking the operation of the fan.
The fan drives cold air from the evaporator into the chambers. When the blades become clogged with ice or freeze, air circulation stops. As a result, the freezer may be cold, but air simply does not flow into the upper refrigerator compartment. The main culprits in this situation are a burnt out, faulty timer or defrost sensor. defrost heating element, faulty timer or defrost sensor.
To check this version, you need to defrost the refrigerator for 24 hours with the doors open. If after turning on the unit starts to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, it means that the defrost circuit is not working. Diagnostics requires “testing” the heating element with a multimeter: if the resistance is infinitely high, the heating element has burned out and requires replacement.
| System element | Function | Symptom of failure | Check method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Defrost heating element | Heats the evaporator to melt the ice | The ice does not melt, the fan is standing | Resistance measurement (should be 200-400 Ohm) |
| Sensor defrost | Turns off the heating element when the temperature is reached | The heating element does not turn on or constantly heats | Resistance measurement at different temperatures |
| Timer/Board | Switches modes cooling/defrost | No transition to defrost mode | Visual inspection of contacts, continuity |
| Fan | Cold air circulation | Noise, grinding or silence | Checking the rotation of the blades manually |
Often owners confuse a heating element malfunction with a fan breakdown. If the fan hums but does not spin due to ice, replacing it will not help - you need to repair the defrost system. If the fan is working, but air does not flow, the air ducts between the chambers may be clogged.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The “heart” of the refrigerator - compressor - responsible for creating the pressure necessary for freon circulation. If the refrigerator Atlant does not freeze in the upper chamber, the reason may be loss of power by compression. This often happens in older models or when used for a long time without breaks. The motor hums, but does not pump gas with the required force to raise it to the height of the upper chamber.
Also a common problem is failure start relay. This small element is responsible for starting the engine. If the relay is “stuck” or burnt out, the compressor will try to start (a click will be heard), but after a few seconds it will be turned off by the protection. As a result, the unit is either silent or operates jerkily, without creating cold.
It is difficult to diagnose the compressor yourself, but you can evaluate its operation by ear and temperature. If it works silently and is barely warm, the tightness of the valves inside may be broken. If it heats up to 90°C and vibrates strongly, overheating and mechanical wear are evident. In such cases, the entire unit must be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to repair a hermetic compressor yourself. Opening the housing will result in the immediate release of freon and the ingress of moisture, after which the unit can only be thrown away.
When replacing a compressor, it is important to choose a model with similar power and refrigerant characteristics. Installing a more powerful motor “by eye” can lead to rapid wear and tear of the rest of the cooling system.
Failures in the operation of the electronic control module
Modern refrigerators Atlant, especially series with digital control, depend on electronics. If the upper chamber does not freeze, the problem may lie in the “brains” of the unit. The control board receives signals from temperature sensors and gives a command to turn on the compressor or fan. During power surges in the network, the microcircuits can burn out or “glitch.”
A symptom of an electronic malfunction is often the chaotic behavior of the indicators on the front panel: they can blink, show the wrong temperature, or light up all at once. Also, the unit may not respond to adjustment buttons. In some cases, resetting the settings to factory settings helps, but more often it requires resoldering the board elements or completely replacing it.
Particular attention should be paid to thermal sensors. If the sensor in the upper chamber “lies” and shows that it is -10°C (although in fact +15°C), the control module simply will not turn on the cooling. Replacing sensors is an inexpensive procedure, but requires access to the insides of the camera.
To carry out accurate diagnostics of electronics, a special tester is required. At home, you can only visually inspect the board for blackening, swollen capacitors or a burning smell. If there are no visual defects and the refrigerator does not work, it is better to contact a specialist with an oscilloscope.
Violation of chamber tightness and thermal insulation
Sometimes the problem of lack of cold in the upper chamber lies not in technology, but in violation of operating rules or physical damage to the housing. If the door of the upper chamber does not close tightly due to dirty or torn sealwarm air constantly flows inside. The cooling system does not have time to cool it, creating the illusion of a breakdown.
It is also worth checking the door hinges. Over time, they sag and the door warps, creating a gap at the top or bottom. You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper: press the sheet between the door and the body around the perimeter. If the sheet is pulled out without resistance, the seal is broken.
- 🚪 Check whether anything is preventing the door from closing tightly (protruding food, dishes).
- 🧼 Wash the sealing rubber regularly with warm water and soap, removing grease and sticky stains.
- 📏 Use a building level to make sure that the refrigerator is level and not tilted back.
Another rare but possible reason is a violation of the thermal insulation of the case (polyurethane foam). If there is a crack or “cold bridge” in the housing, moisture from the air can condense inside the wall and freeze, gradually destroying the insulation. Visually, this is manifested by swelling of the internal walls of the chamber.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the outer walls of the refrigerator (especially the side ones) have become hot or, conversely, are covered with condensation (“crying”) in certain places, this may indicate peeling of the thermal insulation or a gas leak in the foam part.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate the Atlant refrigerator if it does not freeze at the top?
Short-term operation is possible, but not recommended. The products in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate, and the compressor, running idle or in overload mode, may burn out. In addition, constant wear and tear will lead to more expensive repairs in the future.
How long does it take to defrost the refrigerator to remove the ice plug?
It takes at least 12-24 hours for the ice to completely melt in hard-to-reach places (inside the ducts and on the evaporator). Defrosting for 2-3 hours is often insufficient, since the ice in the depths of the system does not have time to melt.
Why did the refrigerator start working after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign that the cause has not been eliminated. Most likely, there is moisture left in the system, which froze again (ice plug), or the defrosting system is faulty (the heating element or timer burned out), and the ice freezes again, blocking circulation.
Is it possible to replace freon in the refrigerator yourself?
Theoretically, it is possible if you have the equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, scales), but in practice it is difficult. An exact knowledge of the type of freon, its quantity, as well as a mandatory procedure for evacuating the system before refilling is required. Without experience, there is a high risk of damaging the compressor.
What does it mean if the Atlant refrigerator clicks but does not turn on?
Clicks are usually produced by the start relay, trying to start the compressor. If the click is followed by a hum and shutdown, the compressor may have jammed or the relay itself has burned out. If there are no clicks at all, the problem is in the electrical circuit or control module.