The situation when the freezer in the refrigerator Atlant stops working always takes you by surprise, because this threatens spoilage of significant food supplies. Owners of equipment often do not immediately notice the problem: the upper chamber continues to cool, the light is on, and only defrosted vegetables or melting ice in the freezer indicate a malfunction. It is important to understand that two-chamber models are more complex than others, and a failure in one circuit does not always mean a breakdown of the entire unit.
Before calling a technician or looking for a new refrigerator, it is worth carrying out an initial diagnosis. Malfunction it may lie in either a banal defrosting of the No Frost system or a serious one refrigerant leak. In this article, we will analyze in detail the algorithm of actions that will help identify the reason for the lack of cold in the lower or upper chamber and determine whether repair is possible on our own.
It is worth noting that modern models Atlant are equipped with complex electronics that can block the operation of the compressor at the slightest sensor failure. Therefore, if you see that the engine is humming, but there is no cold, or it is completely silent, these are two different scenarios for the development of events that require an individual approach to diagnosis.
Primary diagnosis and external factors
Often the reason that freezer compartment stopped freezing does not lie in a breakdown parts, but in violation of operating rules. The first step is to eliminate the human factor. Check if the door fits tightly. If the sealing rubber is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor can work hard, trying to compensate for heat loss, but cannot cope with the volume of incoming heat.
The second important point is the location of the refrigerator. If Atlant stands close to a wall or in a niche without gaps for ventilation, heat transfer is disrupted. The condenser on the rear wall overheats, and the efficiency of the entire system decreases. Also make sure that you do not put freshly cooked hot food inside: this could cause a temporary temperature failure.
⚠️ Attention: If you find that the door is skewed or the handle is loose, do not ignore it. Even a microscopic gap of 1-2 mm will eventually lead to freezing of the “coat” on the evaporator and a complete stop of air circulation.
Particular attention should be paid to the defrosting system if you have a model with No Frost. If you haven't defrosted your refrigerator in a while (on models with a drip system), a layer of ice could be blocking the channels through which cold air should flow into the freezer. In this case, it is enough to completely defrost the unit within 24 hours, disconnecting it from the network.
Faults in the defrost system (for No Frost models)
In refrigerators Atlant with the No Frost system, the most common reason for the lack of cold in the freezer is system failure defrost. Any ice that forms on the evaporator must be melted regularly. If this process is disrupted, the ice block blocks the fan, and the cold simply cannot enter the chamber, remaining outside the air ducts.
The key elements of this system are the heating element (heater), defrost thermostat and timer (or electronic control module). If Defrost heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the thermostat is faulty, it may not “see” the ice and not give a command to heat up. Visually, this manifests itself as a layer of ice or snow on the back wall inside the freezer, which interferes with the operation of the fan.
- ❄️ Defrost heating element: most often the spiral inside the tube burns out, the element needs to be replaced.
- 🌡️ Defrost thermostat: bimetallic plate, which should open the circuit when a certain temperature is reached; often “sticks.”
- ⏱️ Defrost timer: a mechanical or electronic device that regulates operating cycles; in modern models, its function is performed by a control board.
- 🌀 Fan: may jam due to ice or burn out, stopping moving air.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer. If you see that the evaporator is covered with a thick layer of ice, and the fan is resting its blades on it, the problem is in the defrost system. In this case, you need to ring the heating element and thermostat with a multimeter. The normal resistance of the heating element is usually from 200 to 600 Ohms, depending on the power of the model Atlant.
Problems with the compressor and starting relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it does not start or operates intermittently, the freezer will not cool. In refrigerators Atlant there are often situations when the motor hums for several seconds, clicks and turns off. This is a classic sign of a faulty start-up relay or a jammed compressor.
Start relay is responsible for providing an impulse to start the engine. Over time, the contacts inside it burn out, or the bimetallic plate loses its properties. Replacing a relay is one of the simplest and cheapest repair procedures, which you can do yourself by selecting an analogue based on the compressor model (usually Danfoss or Atlant).
If the relay is working properly, but the compressor is humming and does not start, it may be “stuck.” In some cases, carefully warming up the motor housing helps (strictly observing safety precautions!), but more often this indicates an interturn short circuit of the windings. In this case, the compressor needs to be replaced, which is an expensive repair that requires evacuation of the system and refilling with freon.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there is no light | No power, socket burnt out | Check for voltage in the network |
| Buzzing for 5-10 seconds, clicking, silence | Faulty starting relay | Replace the start protection relay |
| Humming constantly, no cold | Freon leak or blockage | Call a technician to find a leak |
| The motor housing gets very hot | Wear of the compressor, winding breakdown | Diagnostics with a multimeter, replacement |
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burnt wiring or see sparking in the compressor area, immediately unplug the refrigerator! Operation of such a device is a fire hazard.
Freon leakage and capillary system blockage
The refrigerant (freon) circulates in a closed circuit. If a microcrack appears in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. First, the refrigerator starts working longer, then the freezer stops freezing, and then the cold disappears in the main chamber. Leaks often occur at welds, in the foamed part of the body (evaporator) or in the heating circuit of the door perimeter. Atlant A microcrack appears and the gas gradually evaporates. First, the refrigerator starts working longer, then the freezer stops freezing, and then the cold disappears in the main chamber. Leaks often occur at welds, in the foamed part of the housing (evaporator), or in the door perimeter heating circuit.
Another common problem is clogged capillary tube. Oil circulates in the system, which over time can thicken or mix with wear debris, forming a plug. Freon cannot pass through the narrow hole, the pressure in the system drops, and cooling does not occur. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor works almost without interruption, but there is no cold.
It is difficult to diagnose these faults at home. If you touch the condenser (the grill at the back) and it is cold or lukewarm only at the beginning, and not hot throughout, this is a sure sign of low freon or lack of circulation. It is impossible to fix a leak or break through a blockage on your own without a vacuum pump and pressure gauges.
Why can’t you just add freon?
Simple refueling without finding and eliminating the leak will give a temporary effect. After a few weeks or months, the gas will come out again through the same hole. In addition, mixing different types of freons or violating the oil proportions can completely kill the compressor.
Faults in electronics and thermostat
In more modern models Atlant (series 45, 62, 65 and others), an electronic control module is responsible for temperature control. It receives signals from temperature sensors and makes a decision to turn on the compressor. If thermostat (mechanical) or sensor (electronic) transmits incorrect data, the “brain” of the refrigerator may “think” that the chamber is already -20°C and does not turn on the cooling.
Mechanical thermostats often fail due to loss of bellows tightness or oxidation of contacts. In models with electronics, the problem may lie in a broken sensor wire or a failure of the board itself. Sometimes resetting errors helps (disconnecting from the network for 15-20 minutes), but if the breakdown is physical, the element will need to be replaced.
It is also worth checking the wiring. Rodents, moisture, or vibration can cause chafing on the wires leading to the fan or sensors. If the contact is lost, the circuit opens and the system stops working correctly. Visual inspection of the wiring harnesses inside the freezer (after removing the panels) can reveal obvious breaks.
- 🔌 Oxidation of contacts: often found at the junction of the wires with the sensors.
- 🧊 Incorrect readings: the sensor “lies” and the compressor does not turn on in time.
- 📟 Board failure: rare case, but possible during power surges in the network.
☑️ Electronics diagnostics
When you need to call a technician: summary table
Not all breakdowns can be repaired yourself. If the problem concerns a sealed circuit (freon, compressor, capillary), special equipment and a license to work with refrigerants are required. Attempts at self-repair in such cases often lead to higher costs for equipment restoration.
Below is a table that helps determine the need for professional help. Remember that The sealed circuit cannot be opened without special equipment for pumping out air and filling with gas. Violation of the filling technology will lead to rapid breakdown of the compressor.
| Type of malfunction | Can I do it myself? | Risks of doing it yourself repair |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement of lamp, defrosting | Yes, easy | Absent |
| Replacement of defrost heating element | Yes, with tools | Damage to plastic panels |
| Replacing the thermostat | Yes, average complexity | Incorrect temperature setting |
| Freon leak / Compressor replacement | No, you need a master | Complete failure of the system, fire hazard |
| Replacement of the electronic module | No (no experience) | Combustion of new parts if connected incorrectly |
⚠️ Attention: Repair prices may vary depending on the region, the cost of components and the difficulty of accessing components of a particular model. Check the final cost with the specialist after diagnostics.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does ice freeze in the Atlant freezer, but the food does not freeze?
Most likely, the defrosting system (heating element or sensor) is faulty. Ice blocks the air supply channels, and the cold does not circulate throughout the chamber. Defrosting and replacement of faulty elements are required.
How long should the Atlant refrigerator operate after switching on?
The first entry into operating mode can take from 2 to 12 hours, depending on the model and load. If after 12 hours the freezer does not freeze, but the compressor is working, this is a sign of a malfunction.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the freezer is not working?
For a short time - yes, if the main chamber is working. However, prolonged operation with a malfunction (for example, a freon leak) can lead to compressor combustion due to overheating or lack of lubrication.
The compressor hums, but does not start - what to do?
With a probability of 80%, the starting relay has failed. You can replace it yourself if you know how to use a screwdriver. If replacing the relay does not help, the problem is in the compressor itself.