The situation when a brand refrigerator Indesit ceases to cope with its main function - maintaining a low temperature, often takes owners by surprise. Products begin to deteriorate faster, and condensation may appear on the walls of the chamber or, conversely, frost may disappear where it should be. Owners of two-chamber models are most often faced with the fact that there is still a minus in the freezer compartment, and in the refrigerator compartment the temperature rises to a critical +10..+15 degrees.
Before calling a technician or looking for a new unit, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis. Increase cold in most cases, you can do it yourself if the problem lies in improper operation or blockage or lost settings. However, if we are talking about a freon leak or a compressor failure, then simple methods cannot correct the situation. It is important to understand the design of your Indesit: be it a classic system with drip defrosting or a more modern No Frost.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electronic methods of adjustment, and also point out signs of serious breakdowns. You will learn to distinguish between normal operation of the unit and emergency mode. Remember that a timely response to the first signs of weakening cold can extend the life of the compressor and save the budget for repairs.
Checking the basic settings and operating mode
The most common, but common reason is an incorrectly set operating mode. In refrigerators Indesit with electromechanical control, the temperature regulator is usually a rotary knob with numbers from 1 to 5 (or 7). Many users mistakenly believe that the number “1” means the most severe cold, although the logic is the opposite: the higher the number, the lower the temperature inside the chambers.
If your unit is equipped with an electronic display, the situation may be more complicated. A power failure could lead to a factory reset, which is not always optimal for the current conditions (for example, hot summer). It is necessary to check whether the "Holiday" or "Eco" mode is activated, which specifically maintain a higher temperature to save energy. It is also worth making sure that the “Super Freeze” function is not turned on forever, which can lead to overload of the system, although it usually produces excess cold, not its absence.
For correct operation thermostat it is important that its sensor is not displaced. In mechanical models, the handle adjusts the force of the spring that opens the contacts. If the knob turns too easily or, on the contrary, is jammed, the regulator mechanism itself may be broken. In such cases, increasing the number on the scale does not lead to a physical change in the operating parameters of the compressor.
Mechanical causes of loss of cold and their elimination
If the settings are normal, but the cold is weak, you should pay attention to the physical condition of the unit. One of the common causes is a leak in the door seal. Over time, rubber dries out, cracks, or simply develops a coating that prevents a tight fit. Through the resulting cracks, warm air constantly flows inside, and the refrigerator Indesit simply does not have time to freeze it out.
Another critical factor is the location of the unit. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall or in a niche without gaps, heat exchange is disrupted. The condenser (grid at the back or sides) cannot effectively transfer heat to the environment. This leads to the fact that the refrigerant does not cool properly before entering the capillary tube, and cold performance drops.
⚠️ Attention: Never try to move a running refrigerator away by sharply pulling it by the body. This can lead to the detachment of copper tubes from the compressor, which will cause an instant release of freon and breakdown of the unit.
It is also worth checking the evaporator. In models with manual or drip defrosting, a thick layer of ice (“coat”) on the back wall acts as a heat insulator. The cold does not penetrate through the ice into the chamber, but the temperature sensor located inside the ice “thinks” that the chamber is already cold enough and turns off the compressor. Regular defrosting (at least once every 6 months) can work wonders.
☑️ Diagnosis of the seal
Specifics of the No Frost system in Indesit refrigerators
Model owners Indesit with the system No Frost face a special set of problems. In these refrigerators, the cold is generated in a hidden evaporator (usually behind the back panel of the freezer) and distributed by a fan to both compartments. If you notice that there is cold in the freezer, but heat in the refrigerator compartment, the problem most often lies in the defrost system or air ducts.
The first thing to rule out is clogged air ducts. Food packaged in large bags or boxes could block cold air outlets. In this case, the fan circulates air in vain, but it does not enter the chamber. It is enough to simply unload the shelves at the back wall to restore circulation.
A more serious problem is a malfunction of the defrost system. If the defrost heating element, defrost thermostat or timer (or electronic module) does not work correctly, the evaporator becomes covered with ice. The fan begins to hum, touching the ice crust, or stops altogether. The cold stops entering the chambers. In models Indesit this is a common malfunction that requires defective defrosting elements.
Symptoms of faulty defrosting
Characteristic buzzing or crackling sound from the freezer; The ice coat is visible through the holes on the back wall; The compressor runs almost non-stop, but there is no cold; After complete defrosting (24 hours), the refrigerator begins to freeze perfectly, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns.
To check the No Frost system, partial disassembly of the freezer is often required. It is necessary to remove the plastic panel covering the evaporator and visually assess the amount of ice. If there is a lot of ice, the defrost circuit is checked.
Diagnostics of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor. If it doesn't work correctly, you won't be able to increase the cold with any settings. In refrigerators Indesit there are often situations when the compressor hums but does not start, or starts for a few seconds and stalls. This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the starting relay or the motor itself.
The starting relay is a small box placed on the contacts of the compressor. Inside there is a coil and contacts that are activated when voltage is applied. Over time, the contacts burn out and the mechanism sticks. Replacing a relay is an inexpensive procedure and can often be solved independently. However, if after replacing the relay the situation does not change, and the compressor hums but does not turn, the piston group may be jammed.
The opposite situation: the compressor works constantly, without turning off, but there is not enough cold. This may indicate loss of compressor performance (ring wear) or, more commonly, a refrigerant leak. In the latter case, the pressure in the system drops, and the compressor circulates the remaining freon in a circle, without creating the required temperature difference.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Probability of self-repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is silent, there are no lights no | No power, burnt out cord, faulty socket | High |
| Humming, clicking and stalling | Faulty start relay or jammed compressor | Medium (relay replacement) |
| Works constantly, little cold | Freon leak, capillary clogged, compressor wear | Low (needs a technician) |
| It freezes slightly, ice freezes | Malfunction of the thermostat or defrost system | Average |
The influence of refrigerant and circuit tightness
Refrigerant (freon) is a working fluid that transfers heat. In modern refrigerators Indesit isobutane is most often used. It is an explosive gas operating at low pressure. If a microcrack appears in the circuit (often in the foam part or at the joints of the tubes), the freon gradually evaporates. R600a (isobutane). It is an explosive gas operating at low pressure. If a microcrack appears in the circuit (often in the foam part or at the joints of the tubes), the freon gradually evaporates.
Signs of a freon leak are specific. First, the refrigerator begins to freeze worse, then the compressor begins to work longer, trying to compensate for the loss. At the last stage, the compressor can work around the clock, but the temperature in the chambers will be close to room temperature. In this case, the condenser (grid at the back) will remain cold or warm only at the very beginning, near the compressor.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to independently refill the refrigerator with freol without evacuating the system and replacing the filter-drier will lead to rapid failure of the compressor. There should be no moisture or air in the system.
There is a concept oxygen corrosionthat is characteristic of steel pipelines that are used in some units. In places where soldering or bending occurs, fistulas may appear over time. Determining the location of a leak without special equipment (leak detector) or soap solution (which does not always help) is extremely difficult. If a leak is confirmed, professional repairs with sealing of the circuit are required.
When you need to call a technician: critical faults
There are a number of situations when the question “how to increase the cold” goes into the realm of professional repair. If you checked the seal, defrosted the unit, cleaned the condenser and checked the thermostat, but the problem did not go away, most likely the problem is hidden components.
Clogged capillary tube is a common problem. Oil circulates in the system, which over time oxidizes and forms clots that clog the thin capillary tube. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor works, but there is no cold. In this case, the capacitor can be hot up to a certain point, and then cold. Cleaning the capillary requires special tools and skills.
You should also be wary of problems with the electronic control module. In models with a display, the “brains” may give incorrect commands to the compressor or fan. Diagnostics of the module requires testing the board elements and knowledge of electronics. If the module is “glitchy”, it may not supply voltage to the defrost heating element, which leads to the problems with icing described above.
Do not ignore extraneous sounds. If a metallic knock, whistle or vibration is added to the lack of cold, this may indicate destruction of the internal compressor valves or liquid entering the cylinder (water hammer). Operation of such a unit is dangerous and can lead to fire or complete destruction of the motor.
Prevention and proper operation
To prevent the issue of increasing cold in the refrigerator Indesit from arising regularly, it is important to follow the operating rules. Do not load hot food into the chambers. The thermal load causes the compressor to wear out, and moisture from a hot dish instantly turns into an ice crust on the evaporator, worsening heat transfer.
Regularly check the cleanliness of the condenser. If you have pets, hair can clog the grill at the back or bottom of the refrigerator (where the compressor is). Vacuum this area once every six months. This will improve (heat transfer) and reduce energy consumption.
Make sure the chambers are full. An empty refrigerator maintains its temperature worse, since the air quickly heats up when the door is opened. Products work as cold accumulators. However, do not overcrowd the chambers - the air should circulate freely.
Is it possible to replace the thermostat in an Indesit refrigerator yourself?
Yes, if you have basic skills in working with the tool. The thermostat is located either inside the chamber (the handle is visible) or behind a plastic cover. It is important to buy a similar model with the same parameters (capillary length, temperature range). Before replacing, be sure to unplug the refrigerator.
Why does the refrigerator freeze only after defrosting?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (in No Frost models) or the presence of moisture in the system (in conventional models). An ice block is blocking refrigerant or air circulation. After defrosting, the plug melts and the system operates until it freezes again.
What is the normal temperature in an Indesit freezer?
The normal temperature is from -18°C to -24°C. If the thermometer reads above -12°C, shelf-stable foods may begin to spoil. For quick freezing, you can temporarily set the super-freezing mode, but for no more than 24-48 hours.
What to do if the cold supply channel is frozen?
In refrigerators with one compressor and one circuit, the cold transition channel from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment often freezes. Complete defrosting will help (at least 12-24 hours with the doors open). If the problem repeats, the sensor or damper (if there is one) may be faulty.