The situation when Indesit refrigerator ceases to maintain normal temperature in the upper compartment is one of the most common complaints from the owners of this equipment. Unlike models with the No Frost system, where the cold is distributed forcibly, in classic two-chamber Indesit models, the cooling of the freezing and refrigerating chambers is closely linked by the physics of natural air circulation. If you notice that food freezes in the freezer, and milk on the top shelf turns sour in a couple of hours, this is a signal of a violation of heat exchange or malfunction of the refrigerant system.
The first thing you need to do when you hear complaints from household members about spoiled products is to carry out an initial diagnosis without disassembling the unit. Often the problem lies not in a compressor breakdown or gas leak, but in a simple overload or incorrect thermostat adjustment. However, if the equipment hums as usual, but there is no cold, or, conversely, it works non-stop without stopping, the symptoms cannot be ignored. Further operation in this mode can lead to failure of the expensive motor-compressor.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of malfunctions characteristic of the brand Indesit. You will learn how to distinguish a simple drain blockage from a serious freon leak, and understand in which cases repairs are possible on your own, and when it is better to call a professional. Correct diagnosis at the initial stage will save you time and money by preventing the purchase of unnecessary spare parts.
Fault symptoms and initial diagnosis
Before grabbing the tools, you need to clearly define the nature of the problem. Refrigerators Indesit, especially older models, are prone to certain types of breakdowns that manifest themselves in specific ways. If the upper chamber does not cool, pay attention to the operation of the compressor: does it work continuously or does it turn on rarely? Does it hum louder than usual or make clicking noises? These sounds are the key to understanding what is happening inside the system.
It is important to check the condition of the evaporator in the freezer. If a huge “coat” of ice has formed there, but the refrigerator is warm, this may indicate problems with defrosting or air circulation. In models with a drip defrosting system, water can accumulate in the gutters and freeze, blocking the cold supply channels. A visual inspection will help eliminate up to 30% of potential causes without deep disassembly.
It is also worth paying attention to the tightness of the sealing rubber bands. If the door of the upper chamber does not close tightly due to wear on the magnetic tape or contamination, cold air will constantly escape and warm air will flow in. The compressor will work hard, trying to compensate for the heat gain, but will not reach the desired temperature. Checking the tightness of the door is an obligatory stage of diagnosis.
- 🧊 Ice plug: Ice is frozen in the freezer, and heat from above is a sign of problems with defrosting.
- 🔊 Constant hum: The motor works without stopping, trying to gain temperature.
- 🚪 Warm door: The side walls or the door are very hot, which indicates the active operation of the condenser.
- 💧 Water on floor: Melt water does not go into the drainage, but flows out, which often accompanies freezing of the channels.
Problems with the thermostat and sensors
One of the most common reasons why Indesit refrigerator it does not cool in the upper compartment is the failure of the thermostat. This device is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the “off” position or simply reads the readings incorrectly, the compressor may not start at all, or, conversely, work continuously, freezing food in the freezer, but not cooling the top.
In modern models with electronic control, temperature sensors (thermistors) are responsible for this process. Their resistance changes depending on the heat, and if the sensor is lying, the control board receives incorrect data. For example, a sensor can “tell” the controller that it is already -5°C in the chamber, although in reality it is +15°C. As a result, the compressor simply does not turn on. Replacing the sensor is a simple procedure, but requires testing with a multimeter.
⚠️ Attention: Before replacing the thermostat, make sure that it is the problem. Often, users turn the regulator knob, thinking that this will help, but if the thermostat bellows has lost its tightness, the adjustment is no longer effective.
Mechanical thermostats are characterized by wear of the bellows tube, which is filled with freon. When heated, the gas expands and closes the contacts, starting the motor. If gas escapes through a microcrack, the contacts will not close. You can check this by closing the thermostat contacts directly: if the refrigerator starts working and starts freezing, the regulator is to blame. In electronic models, diagnostics are more complicated and require checking the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures.
- 🔧 Mechanical thermostat: Checked by testing the contacts in cold and warm states.
- 📟 Electronic sensor: Requires measuring the resistance and checking with the table of ratings.
- 🌡️ Incorrect readings: The compressor does not turn on, although the chamber is warm.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (Defrost)
If your Indesit is of the No Frost type or has a partial automatic defrost system, the problem may lies in a violation of the defrosting cycle. In such units, the evaporator is hidden behind the back wall, and ice should not be visible on it in normal operation. However, if the defrosting system fails, the evaporator becomes covered with an ice shell, which blocks the cold air supply channels to the upper chamber. As a result, the fan (if there is one) circulates air, but there is no cold.
Three main elements are responsible for the defrosting process: a heating element (heater), a thermal relay (defrost sensor) and a timer (or electronic module). If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the thermal relay “sticks”, it does not give a command to turn on the heater. In models with a mechanical timer, it may simply get stuck in the “cooling” mode without ever going into the “defrost” mode. Diagnostics of this circuit requires checking each element with a multimeter for an open or short circuit.
Often owners are faced with a situation where, after completely defrosting the refrigerator for 24 hours, it works perfectly, and then the problem returns. This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrost system. Ice gradually accumulates again, blocking the air channels. In this case, simple defrosting is only a temporary solution that requires repair of the defrost unit.
- 🔥 Burnt heating element: The heating element does not heat, the ice does not melt.
- 🔄 Faulty thermal relay: Does not give a signal to turn on the heating when a certain temperature is reached.
- ⏱️ Timer failure: The mechanism does not switch the operating modes of the refrigerator.
☑️ Checking the defrost system
Is it possible to use a hair dryer to speed up defrosting?
Use a hair dryer to Defrosting ice on the evaporator is strictly not recommended. Local overheating of plastic parts and tubes can lead to their deformation or even rupture. It’s better to be patient and let the ice melt naturally.
Refrigerant leak and problems with the capillary
The most serious and expensive reason why the refrigerator does not cool in the upper chamber is a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microscopic hole appears in the system, the gas gradually evaporates. First of all, it is the upper compartment that stops cooling, since the concentration of the remaining freon is only enough for freezing in the freezer, but the pressure is not enough for a full cycle.
Another technical problem typical of older models Indesit and other brands of that period is a clogged capillary tube. A plug from oil or moisture oxidation products may form inside a narrow tube. This prevents normal refrigerant circulation. The compressor hums, trying to push freon, but there is no circulation. Only a technician with a pressure gauge station can distinguish a leak from a blockage by measuring the pressure in the system.
⚠️ Attention: If you find an oily spot under the refrigerator or on the rear grille, this is almost guaranteed to indicate a freon leak along with compressor oil. It is impossible to fix such a breakdown on your own without special equipment (vacuum pump, burner, freon supply).
Symptoms of a leak or blockage are often similar: the motor runs for a long time or around the clock, the condenser (grid at the back) may be barely warm or cold, and in the freezer the temperature is slightly below zero, but not minus. At the same time, room temperature reigns in the upper chamber. Repair in such cases involves finding the leak, sealing, evacuating the system and filling with new refrigerant.
- 📉 Pressure drop: Freon has escaped through a microcrack in the circuit.
- 🛑 Capillary blockage: The tube is clogged with oil breakdown products.
- 🛢️ Traces of oil: Visual sign of a leak in the circuit.
Diagnostic table of main faults
For convenience, we systematize the knowledge gained. Below is a table that will help you compare symptoms with likely causes. Remember that only a specialist with equipment can make an accurate diagnosis, but the table will allow you to understand the scale of the problem and the approximate cost of repairs.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessity of a specialist |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not turn on, there is light | The thermostat or start relay is faulty | Low | You can do it yourself |
| It’s only freezing from below, it’s warm from above | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High | Required |
| Works without stopping, ice in the freezer | Malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer); data-i="137">Depends on the reason | Average | Preferably |
| Noisy operation, vibration | Incorrect installation or wear of the compressor | Low/High | Depends on the reason |
| Water inside the chamber | Drain channel clogged | Low | You can do it yourself |
Influence of seals and rules operation
Do not discount the human factor and wear and tear of consumables. Sealing rubber on the refrigerator door it becomes dull, cracked or deformed over time. Through the resulting cracks, warm air saturated with moisture enters the chamber. This leads not only to an increase in temperature, but also to increased formation of ice, which together gives the effect of a “non-working refrigerator.”
You can check the seal with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it pulls out too easily or falls out on its own, the seal is broken. It is also important to ensure that food does not interfere with the door closing tightly. Often a bottle standing at the very edge of the shelf does not allow the door to close until it clicks, and the owner does not notice it.
In addition, frequent opening of the door or placing hot products in the chamber causes the compressor to work with overload. In the summer, when the kitchen is hot, heat transfer deteriorates, and the refrigerator may simply not cope with cooling the upper chamber, especially if it is located close to the wall or furniture. Maintaining clearances for ventilation is a prerequisite for proper operation of the equipment.
When you need to call a specialist
Despite the desire to save money, there are situations when independent repair Indesit is impractical or dangerous. If diagnostics indicate problems with the sealed circuit (leaks, blockages), professional equipment is required. Attempts to “top up” freon or solder the tube without evacuation will only lead to damage to the compressor in the shortest possible time.
A technician is also needed if the compressor itself has failed. Replacing a motor is a labor-intensive process that requires overhauling the system, installing a new filter-drier and accurately charging the refrigerant by weight. An error in the amount of gas or the presence of moisture in the system is fatal for a new spare part.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burnt wiring or see sparking in the area of the start relay, immediately unplug the refrigerator. Further operation may result in a fire.
When the refrigerator is under warranty, any independent repairs associated with breaking the seals or opening the system will automatically void the manufacturer's warranty. In such situations, the only correct solution is to contact an authorized service center.
Why does the Indesit refrigerator freeze only near the back wall?
This is a characteristic sign of a malfunction in the air circulation system or the beginning of the evaporator freezing process. In No Frost models, the cold must be dispersed by a fan. If the fan stops due to ice or a broken motor, the cold remains at the source - the rear wall. In drip models, this may mean that the air supply channels to the upper part of the chamber are blocked by ice.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after defrosting?
After complete defrosting (at least 24 hours without turning on) and subsequent startup, Indesit it should reach operating temperature within 2-4 hours. If after 5-6 hours of compressor operation the temperature in the upper chamber does not drop below +10°C, then the problem is not in the amount of ice, but in a technical malfunction.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it does not cool from above?
For a short time - yes, if you use it only as a freezer. However, prolonged operation in this mode is harmful to the compressor, which works without rest. In addition, the food in the upper chamber will quickly spoil. It is better to solve the problem immediately to avoid more expensive repairs in the future.
How often do you need to defrost an Indesit refrigerator?
Models with manual defrosting require unplugging to wash and remove ice when the thickness of the “coat” reaches 5 mm (usually once every 3-6 months). No Frost systems and drip models (Low Frost) do not require regular manual defrosting, but preventive washing and drainage checks are recommended once a year.