The situation when a refrigerator Indesit with a system No Frost stops turning off causes understandable anxiety among owners. Constant running of the compressor not only increases your energy bills, but also indicates that the cooling system is working in emergency mode, trying to reach the set temperature. In a working unit, the cooling cycle alternates with a pause, during which the motor rests and the refrigerant is redistributed throughout the system.
If the engine hums continuously, this means that the heat loss inside the chamber exceeds the cooling power, or the sensors transmit incorrect signals to the control module. Most often, the problem lies in a violation of the tightness of the circuit, a malfunction of the sensors, or a banal blockage of the capillary tube. It is important not to ignore this symptom, since long-term wear and tear can lead to burnout of the compressor windings, which will require expensive replacement.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why Indesit refrigerator does not turn off, and consider diagnostic methods available at home. Understanding the principles of operation of the system No Frost will help you quickly identify the malfunction and make a decision: call a technician or try to fix the breakdown yourself.
Improper operation and external factors
Before looking for complex technical faults, it is worth eliminating trivial errors in operation. Often, users themselves create conditions under which the unit is forced to work without interruption. The first and most common reason is a violation of the temperature regime in the room. If the refrigerator is standing next to a heating radiator, stove or in direct sun, heat transfer is disrupted.
It is also worth checking the tightness of the door. In models Indesit with system No Frost even a small gap leads to a constant flow of warm, moist air. This causes intense ice formation on the evaporator, which the fan and sensors cannot cope with. The compressor works in increased mode, trying to compensate for the heat inflow.
Pay attention to the following factors that can provoke continuous operation:
- 🔥 Installing the refrigerator in close proximity to heat sources (battery, oven, sunny side of the window).
- 🚪 Damage or contamination of the rubber door seal, which disrupts the seal of the chamber.
- 🍲 Loading hot or warm products into the chamber, which sharply increases the internal temperature.
- ❄️ Setting the temperature regulator to the “Maximum” position (usually number 5 or 7) during the hot season.
If you find that the seal is dirty, it must be thoroughly washed with warm water and soapy water. If the rubber is cracked or has lost its elasticity, the part will need to be replaced. To check the tightness, you can use a simple test with a sheet of paper: clamp the sheet with a door around the perimeter; if it pulls out too easily, the seal is poor.
⚠️ Attention: Do not set the temperature control to maximum cooling unless necessary. In the summer, this may lead to the fact that the refrigerator is physically unable to reach the set shutdown point due to the high ambient temperature.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the key reasons why the refrigerator does not turn offis the failure of the thermostat (thermostat) or electronic temperature sensors. In mechanical models Indesit the thermostat is a device with a bellows filled with freon, which expands or contracts depending on the temperature in the chamber. If the bellows loses its tightness or the contacts stick, the circuit does not open and the compressor continues to operate.
In more modern electronically controlled models, the control function is performed by sensors (thermistors). They change their resistance with temperature changes. If the sensor “lies” and shows the control module that the chamber is warm, although in fact it is already cold there, the refrigerator will operate continuously. Often the problem lies in oxidation of the contacts or a break in the wiring going to the sensor.
Diagnostics of the thermostat in mechanical refrigerators is carried out as follows:
- 🔧 Remove the regulator handle and the protective casing (usually located inside the chamber or outside on top).
- 🌡️ Remove the capillary tube of the thermostat from the evaporator (carefully so as not to damage it).
- 🔌 Test the thermostat contacts with a multimeter: at room temperature they should be closed, when cooling (if lowered into the cold) they should open.
For electronic sensors, the test consists of measuring the resistance. The values must correspond to the temperature curve specified in the technical documentation. If the resistance of the sensor does not change or shows a break, the element must be replaced.
Where is the thermostat located in Indesit?
In most Indesit models, the mechanical thermostat is located inside the refrigeration chamber, at the top left or right, behind a plastic panel. The capillary tube enters the evaporator through the rear wall.
Problems with the defrost system (Defroster, heating element, timer)
The system No Frost implies automatic removal of ice from the evaporator. If this process is disrupted, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “coat” of ice, which blocks the circulation of cold air. The fan circulates air, but the cooling capacity drops. The temperature sensor detects the lack of cold and instructs the compressor to work longer. As a result, Indesit refrigerator does not turn off, trying to cool the chamber through a layer of ice.
The main elements of the defrost system that can fail:
- 🔌 Defrosting heating element: burns out and does not melt the ice on evaporator.
- ⏱️ Defrost timer: does not switch the “cooling” and “defrosting” modes.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor (defroster): does not turn off the heating element on time or does not give a signal to start defrosting.
- 💨 Fan: freezes or breaks, stopping airflow to the evaporator.
To test this hypothesis, you need to defrost the refrigerator completely. Unplug the appliance for 12-24 hours, leaving the doors open. If, after defrosting and turning on, the refrigerator worked for several hours and turned off normally, and then stopped turning off again as ice accumulated, the problem is definitely in the defrosting system.
In models Indesit there is often a failure of the fuse (thermal fuse) that is in the heating element circuit. If it burns out, the heating element will not turn on, even if the timer gives the command. You can check it with a multimeter for circuit integrity.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing the heating element or sensors in the evaporator area, be extremely careful. The plastic of the rear box is fragile, and the evaporator tubes can easily be damaged with a sharp tool, which will lead to freon leakage.
Refrigerant leakage and capillary tube blockage
The most serious technical malfunctions leading to continuous operation of the compressor are associated with refrigeration circuit. If the system Freon has leaked, the pressure drops and the refrigerant cannot effectively remove heat. The compressor works non-stop, trying to build up pressure, but the temperature in the chambers does not drop to the required values. In such cases, the motor is often hot, and the condenser (grid at the back) is barely warm or cold.
The second option is clogged capillary tube. Oil breakdown products or moisture that gets into the system freezes in a bottleneck in the capillary, cutting off the freon flow. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor is humming, there is no cold, but the condenser can be hot only in the initial part or, conversely, completely cold.
Diagnosis of these problems requires special equipment:
| Symptom | Freon leak | Capillary clogged |
|---|---|---|
| Condenser temperature | Cold or barely warm | Hot at the compressor, cold further |
| Pressure in the system | Below normal (vacuum) | High on the discharge side, low on the suction side |
| Compressor behavior | Works constantly, maybe hot | Works constantly, often with overheating |
| Traces of oil | Often visible on tubes or floor | Absent (the circuit is sealed) |
Independently It is impossible to eliminate a leak or blockage without a vacuum pump, a pressure gauge station and a supply of freon. You need to call a technician who will perform a nitrogen test, find the location of the damage, replace the filter drier and charge the system with refrigerant.
Malfunction of the starting relay and compressor windings
Sometimes the problem lies not in the fact that the refrigerator does not have enough cold, but in the fact that the shutdown mechanism does not work due to an electrical malfunction of the motor itself. The starting relay is responsible for starting the engine and its operation. If the relay contacts stick in the closed position, the power circuit does not break, and the compressor continues to hum, even if the temperature in the chamber has reached normal.
An interturn short circuit in the compressor windings is also possible. In this case, the engine loses power, heats up and cannot create the necessary pressure. The control module or thermostat “sees” that the temperature is not falling and does not give a command to stop. However, more often, when an interturn short circuit occurs, the thermal protection is triggered, and the refrigerator begins to work cyclically: it hums for several minutes, clicks and goes silent while it cools down.
What to look for when diagnosing a compressor:
- 🔊 Character of the sound: a smooth hum or intermittent with clicks.
- 🌡️ Case temperature: if the compressor is hot to the point where it cannot be touched, this is a sign of overload.
- ⚡ Current consumption: measured with current clamps; exceeding the nominal value indicates problems with the windings.
Replacing the starting relay is a simple and inexpensive procedure. It is located in a black plastic or metal casing on the back of the compressor. It is enough to remove the cover, disconnect the wires and replace the part with a similar one. If the problem is in the windings, the compressor needs to be replaced, which is a complex and expensive repair.
Failures in the electronic control module
In refrigerators Indesit with electronic control (display on the door), the main module is responsible for all processes. If it is "buggy" it may send incorrect signals to the compressor. For example, the board may “think” that a quick freezing process is in progress and keep the compressor turned on constantly. Failures in the firmware or oxidation of contacts on the board due to high humidity are also possible.
Often the control module fails due to power surges in the network. In this case, the refrigerator may behave inappropriately: not respond to buttons, show errors, or simply not turn off. Diagnostics of the module requires special knowledge in electronics and circuit design.
In some cases, rebooting the system helps. To do this, you need to:
- Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply.
- Wait at least 15-20 minutes (so that the capacitors are discharged).
- Turn it on again and check the operation.
If the reboot did not help, and other reasons (leakage, sensors) excluded, the board may be faulty. Repair of the module is possible in a specialized workshop, where they will replace burnt elements or reflash the memory.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should an Indesit refrigerator work before the first shutdown?
After the first turn on or long-term defrosting, the refrigerator Indesit No Frost can work non-stop for 3 to 12 hours until it reaches the initial temperature in the chambers. After reaching the specified mode, it should turn off. If it works for more than 12-15 hours in a row and does not turn off, this is a malfunction.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not turn off?
For a short time - it is possible, but not recommended. Long-term wear and tear leads to compressor overheating, oil degradation and eventual engine combustion. In addition, a block of ice may form in the freezer, which will take a long time to defrost. It is better to eliminate the cause.
Why, after defrosting, the refrigerator began to work normally, and after a week it stopped turning off again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer, defrost sensor). During manual defrosting, the ice melted, the air flow was restored, and the refrigerator returned to normal. But since automatic defrosting does not work, ice accumulated again within a week and blocked the system.
Where can I find the refrigerator model to order spare parts?
The model and serial number are indicated on a metal sticker (nameplate). In refrigerators Indesit it is usually located inside the refrigerator compartment on the side wall or on the base panel at the front bottom.
Is it dangerous that the compressor is very hot?
The compressor should normally be hot (up to 70-90°C), as it compresses the gas. But if you can’t touch it even for a second or you smell something burning, it’s dangerous. Immediately disconnect the device from the network to avoid a fire or permanent breakdown.