The situation when Indesit refrigerator does not freeze the upper chamber wellis one of the most common complaints of owners this technique. Users often notice that food in the freezer compartment stops freezing, melts, or remains warm, while the main refrigerator compartment may be working normally or, conversely, working under increased load. This phenomenon is especially typical for models with a system No Frost or a combined cooling system, where the cold from the evaporator is transferred to the chambers through air ducts.
Ignoring this problem can lead to damage to a significant amount of food and, ultimately, to failure of the compressor, which will work for wear, trying to compensate for the lack of cold. Fault diagnosis requires the consistent elimination of simple causes, such as incorrect installation or clogged air ducts, before moving on to complex repairs.
In this article we will analyze in detail the technical reasons why Indesit stops freezing, and we’ll explain which nodes most often fail. You will learn how to independently check the thermostat, defrost sensors and the integrity of the circuit, and also understand in which case a call to the technician becomes inevitable.
Violation of tightness and problems with the seal
The most commonplace, but often ignored reason that it becomes warm in the freezer is a violation of the seal of the chamber. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air from the room constantly enters. The system cooling tries to compensate for this heat influx by working continuously, but due to constant heat exchange, the temperature does not drop to the required values.
Visually this may not be noticeable, so it is recommended to carry out a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet between the seal and the body around the perimeter of the door. If the paper comes out too easily or falls without resistance, it is rubber seal worn, warped, or dirty. It is also worth checking the hinges: if the door is skewed, the tightness is broken even with the seal intact.
⚠️ Attention: If you find ice freezing only on one side of the freezer (usually at the doorway), this is a direct sign of warm air leaking through a leaky circuit seals.
In addition, frequent or prolonged opening of the door also leads to an increase in temperature. In models Indesit with electronic control, the alarm indicator may light up, but physically the cold will not have time to recover.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (No Frost)
Models Indesit No Frost are characterized by the problem of the evaporator becoming clogged with ice. If defrost system does not work correctly, the ice coat freezes on the heating element and blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the upper chamber. As a result, the fan circulates air, but there is no cold, since the path is blocked by ice.
The main culprits here are three components: a defrost heating element, a defrost sensor (defrost thermostat) and a timer (or electronic control module). If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt. If the sensor “lies” and does not give a command to turn on the heating, the same thing happens. Visually, you can notice that the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of frost or ice.
How to check the defrost heating element?
To check the heating element, you need a multimeter. In continuity mode, measure the resistance at the heater contacts. An open circuit (infinity) means that the heating element has burned out and requires replacement. Normal resistance is usually between 200 and 400 ohms.
Diagnosis of this problem often requires partial disassembly of the freezer to access the evaporator. It is necessary to make sure that the drainage hole for removing melt water is also not clogged with debris or ice, as this can cause secondary icing.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Leakage of refrigerant (freon)
One of the most serious reasons why Indesit refrigerator stops freezing, there is a refrigerant leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack appears in the system (often in the foamed part of the housing or in the perimeter heating circuit), the gas gradually evaporates. At first, the refrigerator simply freezes worse, then stops doing so completely.
A characteristic sign of a leak is that the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but at the same time the radiator grille at the back (or on the sides) remains cold or lukewarm, instead of being hot. Swelling of the side walls of the refrigerator may also be observed.
| Symptom | Normal condition | If freon leaks |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Cyclic (on/off) | Constant, non-stop |
| Condenser temperature | Hot (50-60°C) | Warm or cold |
| Frost on evaporator | Uniform | Absent or only at the beginning of the circuit |
| Time frame for the problem to appear | Sudden or gradual | Gradual deterioration |
It is impossible to eliminate the leak on your own, since it requires searching for the location of the damage, soldering, evacuating the system and filling with new gas. This is a job for a certified specialist with professional equipment.
⚠️ Attention: Attempts to “top up” freon without eliminating the leak give only a temporary effect. After a few weeks or months, the problem will return, and the compressor may burn out due to running on the wrong refrigerant or lack of oil.
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
In mechanical models Indesit responsible for maintaining the temperature thermostat (thermostat). This is a device that opens the compressor power circuit when the set temperature is reached in the chamber. If the thermostat is out of order and “does not see” that it is warm in the freezer, it simply will not give a command to turn on the motor.
In models with electronic control (Full No Frost), the control function is performed by temperature sensors (NTC thermistors). They are located at different points: in the freezer, in the refrigerator, on the evaporator. If the sensor in the freezer shows incorrect data (for example, that it is -25°C, although it is really -5°C), the control module will not start the compressor.
Checking a mechanical thermostat is often done by the method of exclusion or by checking the contacts during cooling. For electronic sensors, it is important to measure resistance, which should change depending on temperature. Replacing these elements usually does not require complex equipment other than a screwdriver and a multimeter. However, it is important to choose an analogue with exactly the same characteristics, otherwise the operating modes of the refrigerator will be disrupted.
etra. However, it is important to choose an analogue with exactly the same characteristics, otherwise the operating modes of the refrigerator will be disrupted.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason for the lack of cold is clogged capillary tube. This is a thin copper tube in which freon is throttled before entering the evaporator. A blockage can form due to oxidation products inside the system, moisture (which turns into an ice plug) or debris that got in during poor-quality previous repairs.
The symptoms of a blockage are similar to a freon leak: the compressor runs for a long time and gets very hot, there is no cold, but the condenser (grid) behind) can be hot only at the beginning, and then cool down. The difference from a leak is that the pressure in the system is maintained, but the gas circulation is disrupted.
To eliminate this problem, the technician needs to “push” the system with nitrogen under high pressure, clean the filter drier and, possibly, replace the capillary tube. This is a complex procedure that requires a nitrogen cylinder, a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station.
Problems with the compressor
Although compressors in refrigerators Indesit are considered quite reliable, they also fail. If motor-compressor lost performance (valve group wear), it will drive freon in a circle, but will not be able to create the necessary pressure for effective cooling. In this case, the refrigerator can freeze, but very weakly, not reaching the set temperatures.
Another option is an interturn short circuit of the windings or jamming of the piston group. In this case, the compressor may hum, click and try to start, but immediately stall (the thermal protection relay is triggered), or operate with very high overheating and low current consumption.
A loss of performance can only be diagnosed by readings from pressure gauges connected to the service connection. If the discharge pressure is too low and the suction pressure is too high, this is a sure sign that the compressor is dead. Replacing the motor is an expensive repair, which often requires re-welding the tubes and completely recharging the system.
Is it possible to restore the operation of the refrigerator by completely defrosting it?
Yes, if the reason is the defrost system (No Frost) or an ice jam. Defrosting the refrigerator completely within 24 hours (with the doors open) can melt ice in hard-to-reach areas and ducts. If, after turning it on, the problem disappeared for a couple of weeks and then returned, it means that one of the elements of the defrost system (heating element, sensor, timer) is faulty.
Why is everything normal in the refrigerator compartment, but warm in the freezer?
In two-chamber refrigerators with one compressor, this often indicates a freon leak (gas leaves, and it is only enough for first chamber) or problems with air circulation (channels are clogged with ice, the fan does not work). It is also possible that a separate temperature sensor in the freezer compartment may fail.
How often does Indesit No Frost need to be defrosted?
The technology No Frost implies automatic defrosting of the evaporator, so there is no need to specifically turn off the refrigerator for defrosting. However, it is recommended to do this preventively 1-2 times a year for hygienic cleaning and checking the condition of the seals, since the system does not protect against ice formation if the door seal is broken.