The situation when in the refrigerator Indesit the lower shelf turns into a glacier, and the food in the upper compartment begins to deteriorate, familiar to many owners of this equipment. This is a classic symptom of poor refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Most often, the problem does not lie in a compressor failure, but in simpler elements, such as a thermostat or clogged air ducts.
It is important to understand that the upper part is usually the refrigeration compartment, where the temperature must be maintained at +3...+5°C. If it is warm there, but everything is frozen below, it means that the cold does not physically reach the top or the system “thinks” that the entire volume is already cold enough. Ignoring this problem This can lead to spoilage of food and failure of the compressor due to operation in emergency mode.
Before calling a technician, it is worth carrying out initial diagnosis yourself. In many cases, the cause of the malfunction can be eliminated without expensive intervention from a service center. Below we will analyze in detail the main reasons why Indesit it stopped freezing at the top, and how to fix it.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why the upper chamber does not work is the failure of the thermostat. In older models Indesit with mechanical control, a capillary tube sensitive to temperature changes is responsible for this function. If this element loses its seal or moves, the compressor may not turn on on time.
In modern models with electronic control (No Frost), electronic sensors monitor the temperature. If the upper chamber sensor “lies” and shows that it is already -10°C, the compressor simply will not start until the real temperature rises critically high. Checking the sensor requires a multimeter to measure resistance.
Symptoms of a thermostat malfunction often appear in the form of long pauses in the operation of the motor or, conversely, in its continuous operation without achieving the desired cold. In the first case, the food flows at the top, in the second, everything turns into ice.
Replacing the thermostat is a procedure accessible to a home handyman, but requires care. It is important to choose an analogue with exactly the same temperature characteristics, otherwise the operating mode of the refrigerator will be disrupted.
Problems with the defrosting system (No Frost)
If your Indesit is equipped with a No Frost system, then the lack of cold in the upper chamber when the compressor is running often indicates a failure in the defrost cycle. The evaporator, located behind the rear wall, becomes overgrown with ice, which blocks the channels for supplying cold air to the refrigerator compartment.
As a result, the fan circulates air, but it cannot pass through the ice plug. The food at the top gets warm, but at the bottom, closer to the freezer, it may be colder than normal. The main culprits of this process:
- 🧊 Defrost heating element —a heating element that could burn out and stop melting the ice.
- 💧 Defrost sensor —does not give a signal to turn on the heating when necessary.
- ⏱️ Timer or control module —does not initiate the transition to defrost mode.
For diagnostics, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer and visually assess the amount of ice on the evaporator. If there is “sludge” or an ice shell, and the heating element is cold when defrosting is turned on, the problem is in the defrosting circuit.
How to check the heating element with a multimeter?
Switch the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ohm). Attach the probes to the contacts of the heating element. If the device shows a break (infinity or 1), then the spiral has burned out and requires replacement.
Clogged capillary tube or freon leak
More serious technical problems are associated with impaired refrigerant circulation. If an ice or oil blockage has formed in the system, freon cannot fully circulate through the circuit. In such cases, often only part of the evaporator freezes (usually at the beginning of the circuit), and the cold simply does not reach the upper chamber.
Freon leakage is another reason. Gas can escape through microcracks in sealed areas or through corroded pipes. When the refrigerant level is low, there is not enough of it to cover the entire volume of the system, and the area with the lowest pressure, that is, the upper part of the refrigerator, is the first to suffer.
Signs of a leak or blockage:
- ❄️ The freezer is working, but the refrigerator is warm.
- 🔊 The compressor runs continuously, not turning off.
- 🌡️ The condenser (grid at the back) is only partially warm or cold.
⚠️ Attention: Charging freon yourself or removing blockages requires special equipment and skills. An attempt to simply “add gas” without evacuation of the system will lead to rapid breakdown of the compressor.
Incorrect operation and user errors
Sometimes the reason that the upper chamber Indesit does not freeze is trivial and lies in the actions of the owner himself. For example, if you just placed a large amount of warm food in the refrigerator, the system may not be able to handle the load. Also, frequent opening of the door in the summer disrupts heat exchange.
Another important point is the tightness of the products against the back wall. If pots or packages block the outlet openings of the air ducts, cold air physically cannot circulate through the volume. Air circulation is the key operating principle of modern refrigerators.
Check the position of the temperature regulator. Perhaps it was accidentally moved by children or when cleaning to the “minimum” position. Also make sure that the refrigerator is level: if it is tilted forward, the door may not fit completely, letting warm air in.
Mechanical damage to seals
The rubber seal on the refrigerator door loses its elasticity over time, cracks or deforms. Through the resulting cracks, warm air from the room constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working for wear, but in the upper part, closer to the door, the temperature still remains high.
You can check the tightness in a simple way: clamp a sheet of paper between the door and the body in different places. If the paper is pulled out too easily or falls out, the seal does not fit tightly. In this case, it needs to either be corrected (warm up with a hairdryer) or replaced.
The table below will help determine the main symptoms and probable causes:
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| It’s warm everywhere, the compressor is silent | The thermostat or module is faulty | Medium |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Clogged, freon leak or fan | High |
| Ice on the back wall inside | Problem with defrosting (No Frost) | Medium |
| The refrigerator hums, but does not get cold | The compressor is jammed or there is no freon | High |
Fan malfunctions
In models with the No Frost system, the fan is responsible for the distribution of cold. If its blades are frozen or the motor is burned out, cold air remains in the freezer and does not enter the upper compartment at all. This is one of the most common causes of temperature imbalance.
To check the fan, you need to open the refrigerator door (some models have a button that simulates closing the door, in others you need to press the sensor manually) and listen. If there is no noise from the motor, but there is a humming noise in the freezer, it may just be frozen.
☑️ Fan diagnostics
Often the fan is blocked by ice. In this case, it is enough to completely defrost the refrigerator (at least 24 hours with the doors open), and the problem may disappear. If the motor burns out, it will need to be replaced with one of a similar size and voltage.
Malfunctions of the control module
The "brain" of the refrigerator Indesit is an electronic control module. It reads readings from all sensors and makes a decision when to turn on the compressor, fan or defrost heating element. Power surges in the network can lead to burning of board elements or firmware glitches.
If the module is faulty, it can send incorrect signals. For example, “think” that the chamber is cold and do not start cooling. Repairing a module requires deep knowledge of electronics and soldering, so at home it is usually replaced entirely or sent to a specialized service.
⚠️ Attention: Technical characteristics and location of parts may vary depending on the specific model and year of manufacture. Always check the technical documentation of your device before starting work.
Sometimes the problem is solved by a simple reboot. Unplug the refrigerator for 15–20 minutes and then turn it on again. This will clear errors in the controller memory. If after a few hours the situation repeats, look for a hardware failure.
When you need to call a technician
There are a number of situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If you detect a freon leak (oily spots, hissing, smell), the system must be sealed and professionally refilled. You can’t get into the circuit without a vacuum pump and freon scales.
Also, a master is needed if:
- 🛠️ The capillary is clogged - nitrogen purging and replacement of the filter-drier are required.
- ⚡ The compressor burned out - replacing the motor is difficult and requires re-soldering of the tubes.
- 💻 The electronic module is faulty —re-flashing or complex soldering is required.
Remember that tampering with the cooling system often leads to loss of warranty, if it is still valid. If your refrigerator is less than 3 years old, it is better to immediately contact an authorized center.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long should it take How long does defrosting last if the upper chamber does not freeze?
To completely defrost the evaporator and defrost ice plugs in the channels, it is recommended to keep the refrigerator turned off with the doors open for at least 24 hours. A shorter defrosting may not have an effect if the ice is deep in the system.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if the top does not freeze, but the bottom works?
Using equipment in this mode is not recommended. The compressor will work non-stop, trying to cool the upper chamber, which will lead to overheating and eventual failure. In addition, the food at the top will spoil.
Why, after defrosting, does the Indesit refrigerator not freeze again after a week?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (the heating element, timer or sensor has burned out). Ice again accumulates on the evaporator and blocks the channels. Diagnostics and replacement of faulty elements of the defrost circuit are required.
How to understand that freon has leaked, without devices?
Indirect signs: the refrigerator works constantly, without turning off; the condenser at the back is cold or warm only at the compressor inlet/outlet; a “fur coat” appears in the freezer only in one corner, and the rest of the space is warm.