The situation when your Indesit refrigerator makes a click, tries to start the motor-compressor, but stalls after a few seconds, is a classic symptom of a serious malfunction. This behavior of equipment is not just a random failure, but a signal from the protection system or the result of a physical breakdown of one of the key components of the unit. If you ignore these signs, you can bring the device to complete failure, when restoration becomes economically unfeasible.
In most cases, the problem lies in the electrical circuit for starting the engine or in a violation of the thermal conditions inside the chambers. The owner may hear a characteristic hum that ends abruptly, or watch the power indicator light up and go out. Understanding the physics of the process helps not to panic and to sequence (eliminate) possible faults, ranging from the simplest to the most complex.
Next we will analyze in detail the main components that are responsible for starting and operating the compressor. You will learn how to independently carry out initial diagnostics and determine whether you need to call a technician or whether the problem can be solved by replacing a small part.
Malfunctions of the starting relay and thermostat
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator turns on and immediately turns offis the failure of the starting relay. This small component is responsible for providing a starting pulse to the motor winding. If the contacts inside the relay are burnt or stuck, the motor does not receive the necessary push to rotate the shaft and is blocked by the overload protection system.
The thermostat (thermostat) is the second suspect on this list. Its task is to monitor the temperature in the chamber and open the compressor power circuit when the set values are reached. If the sensor is “lying” or its contacts are oxidized, it can give a command to stop the engine almost immediately after it is turned on, even if it is warm in the chamber.
To check the relay, it is often enough to remove it and shake it near the ear. If you hear a ringing or knocking noise from internal parts, it means the mechanical part is damaged. In the case of a thermostat, you can try to temporarily close its contacts (if you have electrical skills) to check whether the unit will start by bypassing the sensor.
- 🔌 Start relay: often requires a complete replacement, since repairing the contact group rarely has a long-term effect.
- 🌡️ Thermostat: can be set to the minimum temperature or have short circuit in the capillary tube.
- ⚡ Contact group: oxidation of contacts leads to unstable power supply and false protection triggers.
⚠️ Attention: Before carrying out any manipulations with electrical components Indesit refrigerator be sure to disconnect the device from the network! Working under 220V voltage is deadly.
Problems with the motor-compressor
The most expensive and serious problem is the malfunction of itself motor-compressor. If the unit hums for 5-10 seconds, then there is a click and silence, this may indicate an interturn short circuit in the motor winding or a wedge in the mechanical part. In this state, the engine consumes a huge current, which causes the thermal protection relay to open the circuit.
Often the compressor cannot start due to high pressure in the discharge line. This happens if the system is clogged with oxidation products or an ice jam has formed there. The engine tries to push freon, but cannot turn the pistons, overheats and shuts down.
It is difficult to diagnose the exact cause without special tools (tester, pressure gauges). However, if when you touch the motor housing while trying to start you feel strong vibration and hear a heavy hum, most likely the problem is in the “heart” of the refrigerator.
Is it possible to start a compressor without a relay?
Theoretically, you can start an asynchronous motor using an external starting loop or capacitor, but this is dangerous for diagnosing the refrigerator. You may burn the winding completely or get an electric shock. It is better to use a known good relay for checking.
Refrigerant leak and system blockage
If the Indesit refrigerator works in the “on-off” cycle, but does not cool, there is a high probability Freon leaks. If there is insufficient refrigerant, the compressor runs idle, not receiving the necessary cooling from the returning gas. The motor overheats, and the thermal relay emergency stops it.
Clogged capillary tube is another common cause. A plug of moisture, oil or decomposition products forms in the freon circulation system. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor rises sharply, and at the inlet it drops. The motor cannot overcome this resistance and goes into protection.
It is difficult to visually determine a leak, but sometimes you can notice oily stains on the floor under the refrigerator or in the area of the rear grille. The blockage is often accompanied by strange gurgling sounds or their complete absence when the fan is running (if there is one).
Faults in the electrical wiring
The problem may lie not inside the refrigerator, but in the electrical supply system of your apartment. If mains voltage too low or, conversely, jumps, the starting electronics may behave incorrectly. The compressor simply does not have enough power to start, and it stalls.
It is also worth checking the socket and plug of the power cord. Loose contacts in a socket cause arcing and voltage drop under load. When you try to start the motor, the voltage drops and the unit turns off.
Check the integrity of the power cord. If it has kinks, abrasions, or signs of melting, it must be replaced. The internal wiring of the refrigerator may also have damaged insulation, which leads to short circuits when the case vibrates.
⚠️ Attention: The use of cheap Chinese extension cords or low-quality surge protectors often causes unstable operation of powerful electrical appliances. Connect the refrigerator directly to a working outlet.
Failure in the electronic control module
In modern models Indesit with a system No Frost and electronic control, the main control module is responsible for starting the compressor. If the triacs or tracks on the board are burned out, the control signal may not be supplied correctly. The electronics “thinks” that the temperature has been reached, or, conversely, sees a sensor error and blocks the start.
Often the module fails due to power surges or moisture ingress. Visually, traces of burning, swollen capacitors or oxidized contacts may be visible on the board. In this case, professional resoldering of the elements or replacement of the entire board is required.
Diagnostics of the module requires special knowledge and equipment. If you have ruled out mechanical causes (relay, thermostat, compressor), then with a high degree of probability the problem lies precisely in the “brains” of the refrigerator.
☑️ Do-it-yourself primary diagnostics
Diagnostic table: Symptom - Probable cause
For the convenience of systematizing problems, we will draw up a table that helps identify the fault node by its characteristic symptoms.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| Click after 3-5 seconds, silence | Faulty starting relay | Low (part replacement) |
| Humming, then clicking, body is hot | Compressor jammed | High (motor replacement) |
| Works for 1 minute, turns off, does not cool | Leakage freon | Medium (search for leaks, refill) |
| Chaotic on/off | Thermostat or module is faulty | Medium (sensor/board replacement) |
| Quiet humming, no startup | Low voltage in the network | Low (stabilizer) |
What to do: step-by-step instructions
If you encounter the problem described, do not rush to call a technician right away. Follow a series of simple steps that will help isolate the problem or even fix it. The first thing to do is complete defrosting. Leave the refrigerator turned off for a day (at least 10-12 hours) with the doors open. This will allow the ice in the evaporator to melt and eliminate possible ice blockage.
After defrosting, turn on the device. If it started working normally and got cold, then the problem was in the defrost system or an ice plug. If the situation repeats, proceed to checking the electrical part.
Critical important: If, after defrosting and checking the outlet, the refrigerator continues to turn on and off immediately, further operation is prohibited. Each such start “at the limit” destroys the motor windings.When you need to call a professional
There are a number of situations when independent repairs are impossible or dangerous. If diagnostics indicate a freon leak, the system must be evacuated and recharged with refrigerant. To do this, you need a manometric manifold, a vacuum pump and a supply of freon, which only specialists have.
Replacing a compressor is also a task for professionals. It requires soldering copper tubes in a nitrogen environment to avoid oxidation within the system. Unprofessional soldering will lead to rapid failure of the new motor.
If you do not have experience with a multimeter and you do not understand the difference between a normally closed and normally open contact, it is better not to take risks. Incorrect assembly can lead to fire or electric shock.
⚠️ Attention: Opening the sealed refrigerator circuit (to replace the filter or compressor) requires a license and special equipment for freon disposal. Independent release of gas into the atmosphere is prohibited by environmental standards.
Why does the refrigerator click but does not start?
The click is the sound of the contacts of the thermal protection relay opening. The compressor tries to start, consumes high current, but due to a malfunction (jamming, lack of freon, bad relay) it does not start. The thermal protection heats up and emergency opens the circuit, making a click. This saves the motor from burning out.
Is it possible to temporarily jam the relay to make the refrigerator work?
Theoretically, if you close the relay contacts, the motor can start, but this is strictly not recommended. Without properly functioning protection, you risk completely burning out the compressor winding, which will lead to replacement of the entire unit. This is a temporary measure for a few minutes for diagnostics, but not for work.
How much does repair cost if the compressor burns out?
The cost consists of the price of a new motor-compressor, the cost of soldering, vacuuming and refilling with freon. This often amounts to more than 50-60% of the cost of a new refrigerator. In such cases, it is often more advisable to buy new equipment than to repair old equipment.
Does room temperature affect startup?
Yes, it does. If the room is too cold (below +10°C), the oil in the compressor thickens and it is difficult for it to turn over. If it's too hot, cooling efficiency drops and the motor goes into overheating protection faster. The optimal temperature for the refrigerator to operate is from +16°C to +32°C.
What does it mean if the refrigerator is humming but not cooling?
This is a classic sign that the compressor is working, but the refrigerant is not circulating. Reasons: freon leak, clogged capillary tube or malfunction of the compressor itself (it circulates air, but does not create pressure). Diagnostics by a technician is required.