The Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator does not freeze the upper chamber: reasons and what to do

If your refrigerator Hotpoint-Ariston suddenly stopped freezing in the upper chamber, and the freezer compartment is working normally, this is an alarming signal. This problem occurs both in old models Hotpoint-Ariston RM 6184 or HBM 1182, and in new lines Active Fresh and Total No Frost. Most often, problems with the cooling system are to blame, but sometimes it’s a matter of little things that you can fix yourself without calling a technician.

In this article we will analyze 7 main reasonswhy the upper chamber does not cool, and also give step-by-step instructions for diagnosis and repair. You will learn how to check the thermostat, sensors, fan and other components without completely disassembling the refrigerator. And if the problem turns out to be serious, we will tell you how much professional repairs will cost and whether it is worth doing it for your model.

Let us note right away: if the refrigerator Hotpoint-Ariston with a system No Frost, the troubleshooting algorithm will differ from models with drip defrosting. Therefore, carefully read the sections specific to your device type.

1. Checking obvious reasons: what to do first

Before disassembling the refrigerator or calling a technician, rule out simple problems that do not require repair. Start with a visual inspection and check the settings:

• 🔌 Power and socket: Make sure that the refrigerator is connected to a working outlet. Try plugging in another device (for example, a phone charger) to check the voltage. Sometimes the problem lies in wire break or a faulty plug.
• ❄️ Cooling mode: On models with electronic control (for example Hotpoint-Ariston HBM 1282), check whether the mode Holiday (vacation) or Eco. In these modes, the upper chamber can be turned off or operate at minimum power.
• 🚪 Door closure tightness: Inspect the sealing rubber for cracks or deformations. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air gets inside and the compressor cannot cope with cooling. Checking the tightness is simple: close the door, bring a sheet of paper and try to pull it out. If the sheet comes out easily, the seal requires replacement.
• 🌡️ Temperature settings: On mechanical thermostats (model Hotpoint-Ariston RM 6181), the regulator could accidentally go wrong. Turn it to maximum cooling and check if the compressor starts working.

If after these manipulations the upper chamber still does not freeze, proceed to a more in-depth diagnosis. But first answer the question:

Important! On models c No Frost (for example, Hotpoint-Ariston HBM 1182) the fan can be blocked by ice if the refrigerator has not been defrosted for a long time. Try defrosting it completely for 10-12 hours, then turn it back on. If the problem disappears, it means that the cause was icing of the air ducts.

2. Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor

One ​​of the most common reasons why the upper chamber does not cool is thermostat failure (in mechanical models) or temperature sensor (in electronic ones). These elements are responsible for signaling the compressor to turn on. If they fail, the compressor simply “does not know” that it needs to cool the upper chamber.

How to check the thermostat:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply and remove the protective casing from the thermostat (usually it is located next to the lamp lighting).
2. Carefully remove the terminals from the thermostat contacts and connect them together with a screwdriver (after insulating the handle!).
3. Turn on the refrigerator. If the compressor works, the thermostat is faulty and requires replacement.

For models with electronic control (Hotpoint-Ariston HBM 1282, HF 4200) the algorithm is different:

• 🔧 Use a multimeter in resistance test mode.
• 📊 Normal sensor resistance at room temperature - 4–6 kOhm. If the readings are very different or tend to infinity, the sensor is faulty.
• 🔄 On some models, the sensor can be “deceived” by temporarily replacing it with a resistor with the same resistance (for example, 4.7 kOhm). If the refrigerator starts working, the problem is definitely in the sensor.

Repair cost: Replacing the thermostat will cost 1 500–3 000 ₽ (depending on the model), temperature sensor - 2 000–4 500 ₽. If you have a soldering iron and experience working with electronics, you can replace the sensor yourself.

3. Problems with the fan and the No Frost system

In refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston with the system No Frost (models HBM 1182, HF 4200, HBM 1282), the fan is responsible for circulating cold air. If it stops working, the upper chamber will not cool, even if the compressor is working properly. Reasons for fan failure:

• 🧊 Icing of the blades: Due to a malfunction of the defrost heater, ice blocks the rotation of the fan.
• 🔌 Burning motor: Often occurs due to power surges.
• 🔗 Wiring break: Check the circuit from the control board to the fan.

How to diagnose:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and defrost it for 10-12 hours.
2. Remove the back panel in the freezer (in models No Frost the fan is usually located there).
3. Try turning the fan blades by hand. If they do not rotate or you hear a grinding noise, the problem is in the bearings or ice.
4. Connect the refrigerator and listen to whether the fan is working. Normally, a uniform noise should be heard.

If the fan does not start, check it with a multimeter:

Set the multimeter to voltage test mode (200V AC).
Connect the probes to the fan contacts.
When turned on In the refrigerator, a voltage of ~12V or 220V should appear (depending on the model).

If there is voltage, but the fan does not work, replacement is required. Cost of a new fan for Hotpoint-Ariston — 2 500–5 000 ₽.

What to do if the fan is blocked by ice?

Defrost the refrigerator for 12+ hours, then check the operation of the defrost heater. If ice forms again, the defrosting heating element or timer (defroster) is faulty.

4. Freon leakage or blockage of the capillary tube

If the compressor is running, but the upper chamber is not cooled, it is possible freon leak or clogged capillary tube. These problems require professional repairs, but they can be diagnosed independently:

Signs of a freon leak:

• 🔊 The compressor runs non-stop, but it’s cold no.
• 🧊 The condenser (grid on the back wall) remains cold.
• 💧 Oil on the floor under the refrigerator (a sign of circuit damage).

Signs of a clogged capillary tube:

• 🔥 The compressor gets very hot, but there is no cold.
• 🕳️ Heating in only one place of the tube (usually the cerca of the filter-drier).

It is impossible to eliminate these faults on your own - it is required evacuating the system, refilling with freon and replacing the filter-drier. The cost of such repairs starts from 6,000 ₽ and can reach up to 15,000 ₽ depending on the model and amount of work.

⚠️ Attention! If you suspect a freon leak, do not try to repair the refrigerator yourself. Freon is toxic, and incorrect filling can lead to compressor failure.

5. Malfunction of the compressor or start relay

If the refrigerator Hotpoint-Ariston does not freeze the upper chamber, and the compressor does not turn on at all or works intermittently, the problem may be:

• 🔧 Start relay —it starts the compressor, and if it breaks down, the motor does not start.
• 🔄 Interturn short circuit in the compressor windings.
• 📉 Insufficient voltage in the network (less 200V).

How to check the compressor:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove the protective casing from the compressor (it is located at the bottom of the back).
2. Disconnect the start relay (black box on the compressor) and check it with a multimeter:

   Mode: resistance test (200 Ohm).
   Normal values:
   - Between contacts C and R: 20–40 Ohm
   - Between C and S: 10–20 Ohm
   - Between R and S: the sum of the two previous ones values

3. If the resistance approaches zero or infinity, the compressor is faulty.

The cost of replacing the compressor is 12 000–25 000 ₽ (depending on the model). lies in poor-quality wiring. 1 000–3 000 ₽. Before replacing, check the voltage in the outlet - sometimes the problem lies in poor-quality wiring.

6. Problems with the control board

In modern ones. models Hotpoint-Ariston (for example, HBM 1282, HF 4200) the electronic control board is responsible for the distribution of cold. If it fails, the upper chamber may stop cooling, even if the compressor and fan are working.

Signs of a board malfunction:

• 📱 The display shows errors. (for example, E1, E2, F4 —for decoding, see the instructions for the model).
• 🔄 The refrigerator turns on/off spontaneously.
• 🌡️ The temperature in the chambers does not correspond to the set temperature (for example, in the freezer -18°C, and in the upper chamber +15°C).

It is almost impossible to repair the board yourself - it requires flashing or replacement. The cost of a new board for Hotpoint-Ariston — 5 000–12 000 ₽In some cases, resetting the settings to factory settings helps:

Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10 minutes.
Turn on and immediately press and hold the "Super Cool" (or "Super Freeze") button for 5-10 seconds.

⚠️ Attention! If the control board has failed due to a power surge, before replacing install voltage stabilizer. Otherwise, the new board may burn out again.

7. Clogged drainage system (for models with drip defrost)

B refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston with a drip defrosting system (for example, RM 6181, RM 6184) the upper chamber may stop cooling due to clogged drainage. Water that should drain into the pan accumulates at the bottom of the chamber and then freezes, blocking air circulation.

How to clear the drain:

1. Turn off the refrigerator and remove all food from the upper chamber.
2. Find the drainage hole (usually in the back of the chamber, under the plastic panel).
3. Use a syringe with warm water or wireto clean the hole.
4. Rinse the drain hose (it goes into tray on the back wall of the refrigerator).

If the blockage is severe, you can use special pipe cleaning products (for example, Mole), but in a small concentration so as not to damage the plastic. After cleaning, wipe the chamber dry and turn on the refrigerator.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about malfunctions of the upper chamber

🔍 Why does the upper chamber in the Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator not cool, but the freezer works?

This is typical sign malfunctions of the cold distribution system. data-i="239">💰 How much does the repair cost if the upper chamber does not freeze?. In models with No Frost the fan or icing of the air ducts is most often to blame. In refrigerators with a drip system, there is a clogged drainage or a freon leak in the upper chamber circuit. Also check the thermostat and temperature sensor.

💰 How much does repair cost if the upper chamber does not freeze?

The cost depends on the reason:

• Replacement of the thermostat/sensor: 1 500–4 500 ₽
• No Frost fan repair: 2 500–5 000 ₽
• Refilling freon: 6 000–15 000 ₽
• Replacing the compressor: 12 000–25 000 ₽

If the refrigerator is more than 7-10 years old, sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new one than to repair the old one.

⚙️ Is it possible to repair the refrigerator yourself if it does not freeze?

Yes, but only in some cases:

• ✅ Cleaning the drainage.
• ✅ Replacing the sealing rubber.
• ✅ Diagnostics of the thermostat or sensor (if you have a multimeter).

❌ It is not recommended independently:

• Refilling freon.
• Repairing the compressor.
• Soldering the control board.

⏳ How long after the repair will the refrigerator start freezing normally?

It depends on the type of repair:

• After replacing the thermostat or sensor - 1-2 hours.
• After charging freon - 4–6 hours (time is needed for uniform distribution of the refrigerant).
• After cleaning the drainage - 30–60 minutes.

If after 6 hours the upper chamber still does not cool, the repair was performed incorrectly.

🔌 Refrigerator Hotpoint-Ariston does not freeze after turning off the light. What to do?

Probably, the control board settings are wrong. Try:

1. Disconnect the refrigerator from the network for 10 minutes.
2. Turn on and immediately press the button Super Cool (or Fast Freeze) for 5 seconds to reset.
3. If that doesn’t help, check the voltage in the outlet (there should be 220–230V). Voltage surges could damage the board.