Thermostat in the Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator: where it is, how to check and replace

Refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston are known for their reliability, but even they are not immune from breakdowns. One of the most common problems is incorrect operation of the thermostat, which is responsible for maintaining the set temperature. If your refrigerator has stopped freezing, constantly works without stopping, or, conversely, turns on too rarely, this particular unit may be to blame.

In this article we will examine in detail where is the thermostat located in Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerators different series (including popular models HF 4200, HBM 1182, R 6001 and others), how to check it with a multimeter and, if necessary, replace it. You will also learn what tools are needed for repairs and how to avoid typical mistakes during disassembly.

We warn you right away: if you have a model with electronic control (display, touch buttons), the thermostat can be integrated into the control board - in this case, independent repairs without experience are not recommended. For mechanical thermostats (rotating temperature switch), the task is quite feasible.

1. What does the thermostat look like in a Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerator?

A thermostat (or thermostat) is a device that controls the temperature in the refrigerator compartment and sends a signal to the compressor to turn on/off. In models Hotpoint-Ariston it can be:

• 🔘 Mechanical —with an adjustment knob (usually located inside the camera, on the right or left).
• 📱 Electronic —without a visible knob, control via the display (found in models after 2018).
• 🔌 Capillary —with a long sensor tube that is attached to the evaporator.

In most refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston (for example, series HF, HBM, C) used mechanical thermostat brands K59, K50, AMT or their analogues. It is a plastic body with contacts and a rod, to which a capillary tube is connected. It is this tube that is often confused with a temperature sensor, but it is part of the thermostat.

Externally, the thermostat looks like a small box measuring 5x5 cm with coming out wires and a tube. The case usually has a manufacturer's marking (for example, Ranco, Danfoss, Sensata) and a rating (for example, K59-L1411).

2. Where exactly is the thermostat located?

The location of the thermostat depends on refrigerator models and its design. data-i="78">most often it is located in one of three places: Hotpoint-Ariston most often it is located in one of three places:

1. Inside the refrigerator compartment - under the plastic panel, next to the temperature control knob (typical for models HF 4200, HBM 1182, R 6001).
2. Outside, on the back wall - in a special technological compartment (occurs in old models before 2010).
3. In the freezer —if the refrigerator is with a system No Frost (for example, HBM 1582, HFP 1082).

To accurately determine the location, pay attention on:

• 🔍 Thermostat knob —if it is inside the chamber, then the thermostat itself is nearby.
• 🔌 Wires —2-4 wires come from the thermostat (most often brown, orange, green).
• 📏 Capillary tube —a thin metal tube going to the evaporator.

In models with electronic control (for example, Hotpoint-Ariston HBM 1821) the thermostat can be replaced with thermistor (temperature sensor), which is attached directly to the evaporator. In this case, the control board is responsible for the adjustment, and repairs require diagnostics with a multimeter.

How to distinguish a thermostat from a temperature sensor?

A thermostat is a mechanical (or electronic) device with contacts that physically opens/closes a circuit. A temperature sensor (thermistor) is simply a resistor whose resistance changes depending on the temperature. Hotpoint-Ariston refrigerators with a display often use a thermistor rather than a classic thermostat.

3. thermostat

Let's look at the process using the example of a popular model Hotpoint-Ariston HF 4200 (similarly for HBM 1182, R 6001). You will need:

• ⚒️ Phillips screwdriver (PH2).
• 🔧 A flat-head screwdriver (for prying up the latches).
• 📸 Telephone for photographing the wiring diagram.

Step 1. Disconnection and defrosting

Unplug the socket and wait until the refrigerator is completely defrosted (if it was in operation). This will prevent a short circuit during disassembly.

Step 2. Removing the plastic panel

Inside the refrigerator compartment, find the plastic cover under which the thermostat knob is hidden. Gently pry it off with a flat screwdriver. and remove. In some models, the cover is attached to latches, in others - on one screw (usually at the bottom).

Step 3. Disconnecting the capillary tube

The thermostat tube is attached to the evaporator (the metal wall at the back of the chamber). Carefully remove it without bending it - there is gas inside, which is sensitive. to damage.

Step 4. Disconnecting the wires

Take a photo of the connection diagram (which wire goes where) or mark them with tape. Then carefully remove the terminals from the thermostat contacts - it is better to use tweezers.

Step 5. Removal. thermostat

Unscrew the screws securing the thermostat housing to the panel (usually 2 pieces) and remove it. Be careful - the capillary tube is fragile!

4. How to check the thermostat for functionality

Before changing the thermostat, make sure that it is the problem. data-i="130">Method 1. Testing contacts multimeter (continuity or resistance measurement mode).

Method 1. Dialing contacts

1. Switch the multimeter to continuity mode (diode icon).
2. Connect the probes to the contacts 3 i 4 (usually brown and orange wires).
3. Turn the thermostat knob from the minimum to the maximum position:
   • 🔊 If a sound signal is heard (the circuit is closed), the thermostat is working.
   • 🚫 If there is no signal in any position, the thermostat is faulty.

Method 2. Checking resistance

Set the multimeter to measure resistance (200 Ohms). At room temperature (~20°C), the resistance between the contacts 3 and 4 should be close to 0 Ohm (closed). If the indicator 1 (open) - the part needs to be replaced.

Method 3. Test with cooling

Place the thermostat in a container with cold water (+5°C) for 5 minutes, then check the resistance. If it has not changed, the thermostat does not respond to temperature and requires replacement.

⚠️ Attention: In models with No Frost The thermostat can be connected to a defrost timer. If after replacing the thermostat the refrigerator still does not work, check the control board or defrost sensor.

5. Which thermostat should I buy as a replacement?

For refrigerators Hotpoint-Ariston thermostats of the following brands are suitable:

When purchasing, pay attention to:

• 🔧 Length of the capillary tube —it must match the original one (usually 1–1.5 m).
• 🔌 Type of contacts —some models do not use standard terminals, and soldering.
• 📏 Case dimensions - if the new thermostat does not fit into the hole, you will have to modify the panel.

You can buy a thermostat in specialized stores of spare parts for household appliances equipment (for example 220-Volt, All-Spare) or on marketplaces. Be sure to check with the seller whether the part is suitable for your model - sometimes even in the same series Hotpoint-Ariston different thermostats are used.

6. Installing a new thermostat: step by step

Installation is performed in the reverse order, but there are several nuances:

Step 1. Preparing a new thermostat

If the capillary tube of the new thermostat is longer than the original one, carefully bend it (without breaking it!) and secure it next to the evaporator the same way the old one was attached. The tube must fit tightly to the metal to accurately measure temperature.

Step 2. Connecting the wires

Follow the diagram you photographed earlier. Typical pinout for Hotpoint-Ariston:

• 🔌 Brown —phase (power supply).
• 🔌 Orange —output to the compressor.
• 🔌 Green/yellow —grounding (if yes).
• 🔌 Black/blue —zero or signal wire (in electronic models).

Step 3. Fastening the case

Fix the thermostat screws, but do not overtighten - the plastic may crack. Make sure that the temperature control knob rotates freely.

Step 4. Checking operation

Connect the refrigerator to the network and set the thermostat to the middle position. After 10-15 minutes the compressor should start. If the refrigerator does not turn on, check:

• 🔌 Correct connection of the wires.
• 🔋 Voltage in the socket (should be 220–230 V).
• ❄️ Position of the capillary tube (it should not touch the fan or other moving parts).

⚠️ Attention: If after replacing the thermostat the refrigerator runs without stopping or, conversely, does not turn on at all, the problem may be compressor start relay or control board. In this case, it is better to call a specialist.

7. Typical mistakes when replacing a thermostat

Even experienced technicians sometimes make mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. Here's what you can't do:

• 🚫 Ignore the markings of the wires - if you confuse phase and zero, the thermostat will burn out.
• 🚫 Kink the capillary tube - this breaks its tightness and leads to incorrect readings.
• 🚫 Use a thermostat from another model - even if it looks similar, the temperature range may not match.
• 🚫 Do not check the new thermostat before installation - sometimes you get defective parts.
• 🚫 Close the ventilation holes - this leads to overheating of the compressor.

Another common mistake is incorrect installation of the adjustment knob. If it is in the OFF (off) position, the refrigerator will not start. After replacement, be sure to turn the knob to position 1–3 (medium temperature).

If you doubt your abilities, it is better to contact a service center. The cost of replacing a thermostat in a workshop is 1 500–3 000 ₽ (depending on the model and region), but it is cheaper than repairing errors during self-repair.

8. FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Hotpoint-Ariston thermostats

🔍 How to understand that the thermostat is broken and not the compressor?

If the compressor does not turn on at all, first check the thermostat (ring the contacts). If the compressor hums but does not freeze, the problem may be a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. If the compressor works without stopping, most likely the thermostat is to blame (it does not turn off the power when the temperature is reached).

❄️ Is it possible to temporarily bypass the thermostat so that the refrigerator works?

Yes, but this temporary solution! You can short-circuit the wires going to the 3 and 4 thermostat contacts (usually brown and orange). The refrigerator will work continuously, but this is dangerous: the compressor will overheat, and the temperature in the chamber will be too low. Use this method only to check the serviceability of the compressor.

🔧 Do you need to defrost the refrigerator before replacing the thermostat?

Yes, definitely! Firstly, it is safe (there is no risk of short circuit from melt water). Secondly, it’s easier to get to the thermostat - ice can block access to the fasteners. Thirdly, defrosting will help assess whether there are other problems (for example, freon leakage).

💰 How much does it cost to replace a thermostat in the service?

The cost of work depends on the model and region:

• Replacing the thermostat in the refrigerator compartment: 1 500–2 500 ₽.
• Replacing the thermostat in the freezer (with disassembly No Frost): 2 500–3 500 ₽.
• Diagnostics + replacement: 3 000–4 000 ₽.

The price of spare parts is not included (the thermostat will cost $ 600–1 500 ₽).

🔄 Is it possible to repair the thermostat or only replace?

Mechanical thermostats not. being repaired - they are only replaced. There is a sealed system with gas inside, and any intervention will disrupt its operation. Electronic thermostats (thermistors) are also not repaired - they are checked with a multimeter and, if faulty, replaced with new ones.