The appearance of water at the bottom refrigeration chamber or a puddle under the unit is a signal that cannot be ignored. In most models LG with the No Frost system or drip defrosting, the defrosting moisture must leave through a special drainage hole. When this channel becomes clogged, condensation does not find a way out and begins to accumulate inside, spoiling the food and creating an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria.
Ignoring the problem can lead to more serious consequences, including failure electronic control module due to short circuit or corrosion of metal parts of the housing. Fortunately, in 90% of cases the situation can be corrected on our own without calling a specialist. You will only need a minimum set of tools and a little patience to restore normal operation of the moisture removal system.
Before you begin any active actions, you must completely defrost the chamber. Even if you have a model with technology Total No Frost, ice could block the channel, and it will be impossible to clean it without complete thawing. Unplug the appliance, remove all shelves and drawers, leaving the doors open for at least 12 hours for a guaranteed result.
Causes of clogged drainage system
Understanding the nature of the clog helps not only eliminate the current problem, but also prevent its recurrence in the future. The main reason is the natural accumulation of dirt, dust and microparticles of products that enter the air inside the chamber. Over time, this mixture mixes with condensate and turns into a dense plug that blocks the drainage channel. Another common reason is a violation of the temperature regime. If you place hot pots in the refrigerator or do not close the door tightly, excess condensation will form. The moisture removal system simply cannot cope with such a volume of liquid, and some of the water stagnates, contributing to the development of mold and fungi, which also clog the tube. drainage channel.
Another common cause is a violation of the temperature regime. If you place hot pots in the refrigerator or do not close the door tightly, excess condensation will form. The moisture removal system simply cannot cope with such a volume of liquid, and some of the water stagnates, promoting the development of mold and fungi, which also clog the tube.
Sometimes the problem lies in mechanical damage or displacement of the tube itself, especially if the refrigerator has recently been transported or tilted heavily. In such cases, water may not flow into the drain, but past it, falling directly to the bottom of the chamber. It is also worth checking whether the ice has frozen to the outlet due to a malfunction of the defrost sensor.
- 🧊 Accumulation of ice plug in the evaporator outlet.
- 🦠 Growth of bacterial film and mold inside the narrow tube.
- 🥦 Small crumbs of food or seeds getting into the drain hole.
- 📉 Displacement of the drainage chute due to improper installation of the refrigerator.
Necessary tools and preparation
To successfully carry out the procedure, you do not need a complex professional instrument. However, preparing the workplace and having the right tools will significantly speed up the process and make it safe for equipment. The main rule is no aggressive chemical action that can damage plastic elements the internal chamber.
You will need a soft rubber bulb or a large medical syringe without a needle to flush the system with water. A special brush-brush for cleaning drainage, which you can buy at a hardware store or make yourself from a flexible wire with cotton wool, is also effective. Do not use sharp metal objects, such as knitting needles or a knife, so as not to pierce the thin walls of the channel.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to use boiling water to defrost ice in the drainage. A sudden change in temperature can lead to cracking of the plastic of the inner chamber or deformation of the drainage tube.
Be sure to prepare a container for collecting dirty water and rags. Find in advance the place where the hose coming out from the back of the refrigerator will be located. If there is no rear access, the water will have to be pumped out from the inside, which requires greater care. Also stock up on a disinfection solution so that after mechanical cleaning you can destroy any remaining bacteria.
☑️ Preparing to clean the drainage
Step-by-step instructions for cleaning the inside
You should start working only after the refrigerator has completely defrosted and dried. Locate the drainage hole, which is usually located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment, under the bottom shelves. It is a small round hole with a diameter of about 1-2 cm, leading deep into the body.
Take a prepared brush or flexible cable and carefully insert it into the hole. Movements should be translational and rotational, but without strong pressure. Your goal is to loosen and destroy the plug of dirt or ice. If you feel resistance, do not force the process, try to slightly change the angle of insertion of the tool.
After mechanical impact, it is necessary to rinse the canal. Fill a syringe or bulb with warm (not hot!) water and sharply inject it into the hole. If the system is not completely clogged, the water should quickly leave with a specific gurgling sound. Repeat the procedure 3-4 times until the water begins to flow out freely, without lingering in the funnel.
What to do if the water does not drain?
If after several attempts the water remains in the hole, the blockage may be deep in the tube or the hose is pinched. In this case, you may need to access the back of the refrigerator or use compressed air to blow out. Do not pour water endlessly, otherwise it will overflow over the edge of the funnel onto the floor.
For disinfection, you can use a weak soda solution or a special refrigerator cleaner. Pour a small amount of solution into the canal, wait 10-15 minutes, and then rinse again with clean water. This will help remove the unpleasant odor and prevent the rapid formation of a new mucous film on the walls.
Cleaning the drainage through rear access
If cleaning from the inside does not produce results, the problem may be localized in the lower part of the drainage tube, where it comes out. To do this, you will need to move the refrigerator away from the wall. Be careful not to jerk the unit sharply so as not to damage the floor covering or compressor group.
Remove the back panel at the bottom of the refrigerator where the compressor is located. You need to find a plastic container (dropper) where the water flows, and the tube itself coming from the chamber. Often it is in this place, in the so-called “elbow” or bend of the tube, that the bulk of debris and sludge accumulates.
Carefully disconnect the tube from the compressor tank (if the design allows) or simply remove it from the fixing clips. Blow out the tube or rinse it under strong pressure from the tap. You should also wash the container itself, as it may contain stagnant, rotten water, which causes an odor.
| System element | Type of contamination | Cleaning method | Check frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Inlet | Food crumbs, ice | Mechanical cleaning with a brush | Once every 6 months |
| Drainage tube | Mucus, mold, silt | Washing with water under pressure | Once a year |
| Evaporator (inside) | Ice coat | Full defrosting (24 hours) | When ice appears |
| Collection container | Stale water, smell | Wash with detergent | Once a year |
Removing ice plugs on the evaporator
In models with a system No Frost the drain hole is often located directly on the evaporator body, hidden behind a plastic panel. If you hear the fan hitting the ice, or water flows in instead of out, most likely an ice block has formed in the defrost channel.
In this case, simply flushing with water may not help, since the ice is blocking the passage. The only safe method is long-term defrosting. Leave the refrigerator turned off with the doors open for a day. This is guaranteed to melt ice in hard-to-reach places, including bends in the tube inside the case.
Using a hair dryer to speed up the process is possible, but requires extreme caution. Direct the flow of warm (not hot!) air only at visible parts of the ice, avoiding contact with plastic parts and wiring. Overheating of the plastic can lead to its deformation and disruption of the seal of the chamber.
If after defrosting the problem repeats after a short time, the temperature sensor may be faulty. In such cases, the water does not have time to drain and freezes again, gradually increasing the volume of ice. This already requires diagnostics from a specialist. Defrost heating element or temperature sensor. In such cases, the water does not have time to drain and freezes again, gradually increasing the volume of ice. This already requires diagnosis from a specialist.
⚠️ Attention: If you observe a constant growth of an ice coat on the back wall even after defrosting, this may indicate a freon leak or a malfunction of the thermostat. In this case, cleaning the drainage will only give a temporary effect.
Prevention and care of the moisture drainage system
To prevent the question “how to clean the drainage hole in an LG refrigerator” from arising too often, it is important to follow simple operating rules. Regularly check the cleanliness of the inner chamber and promptly remove any spilled food. Pay special attention to the area around the drain hole - wipe it with a damp cloth during each general cleaning.
Monitor the temperature conditions. Do not set the temperature too low unless necessary, as this will cause excessive condensation. Also check the tight fit of the door: if the rubber seal is dirty or damaged, warm, moist air enters the chamber, which settles on the walls and freezes.
Periodically, About once every six months, carry out preventive flushing of the canal with a weak soda solution. This will help dissolve the fatty film that is starting to form and prevent it from hardening. It is also useful to check the position of the refrigerator: it should stand strictly horizontally or with a slight tilt back so that the water flows by gravity into the drainage.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to use wire to clean the drainage?
It is not recommended to use ordinary steel wire, as it can scratch the plastic walls of the channel or pierce the thin tube, which will lead to freon leakage or moisture getting into electrical parts. If there is no other tool, wrap the end of the wire with cotton wool or a soft cloth.
Why does the water still stand at the bottom after cleaning?
If the water stands but slowly drains away, there may be a small blockage left in the tube, which requires repeated flushing with a large volume of water. If the water is standing and does not go away at all, check whether the hose behind the refrigerator is kinked or whether ice has frozen deep in the channel.
How can you tell that the drainage is completely clean?
A sign of a clean system is the rapid disappearance of water from the drain funnel immediately after pouring. There should also be no gurgling sound when air passes through and no unpleasant musty smell, which often accompanies stagnant water.
Is it necessary to disassemble the refrigerator for cleaning?
In most cases, access to the drain hole inside the chamber is sufficient. Disassembling the rear panel and removing the evaporator is required only in difficult cases, when an ice plug has formed deep inside the housing and cannot be removed by regular defrosting.
What is the danger of a clogged drain for a compressor?
A clogged drain usually does not have a direct effect on the operation of the compressor, since these are different systems. However, if water overflows the pan and gets on the electrical contacts or the compressor itself, it can cause a short circuit or corrosion, which will lead to expensive repairs.