Why the LG refrigerator does not turn off: step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm

The situation when LG refrigerator stops turning off is one of the most alarming for the owner of household appliances. A unit that hums continuously not only creates constant background noise that interferes with rest, but also signals a serious malfunction in the thermoregulation system. At best, this will lead to increased energy consumption, and at worst, to failure of an expensive compressor due to overheating and overload. Understanding the nature of this problem requires a careful analysis of the operation of the device and a consistent check of its components.

Most often, the reason for continuous operation is a violation of heat transfer or failure of sensors that simply do not “see” that the required temperature has already been reached. The compressor continues to drive refrigerant through the system, trying to cool the chambers to impossible levels, since there is no signal to stop. It is important not to ignore the first signs of such work, since long-term non-stop operation reduces the life of the motor several times. In this article, we will look in detail at why LG refrigerator does not turn off, and what steps need to be taken to fix the problem.

The first thing to do is to assess the nature of the noise and the intensity of cooling. If the food in the freezer is covered with a thick crust of ice, and everything on the shelves of the main compartment is frozen, it means that the cooling system is working too efficiently, but without control. If the temperature inside the chambers remains normal or even high, and the motor hums continuously, the problem may lie in a freon leak or a leak in the circuit. A critical sign is the heating of the compressor housing to a state where it is impossible to touch it with your hand. In this case, immediately disconnecting the device from the network can save it from costly repairs.

Natural causes and operating errors

Before sounding the alarm and calling a technician, it is worth eliminating trivial factors associated with incorrect exploitation. Often, users themselves create conditions under which refrigerator they are forced to work in intense mode. For example, installing the device in close proximity to heat sources - radiators, stoves or in direct sunlight - causes the cooling system to work harder to compensate for external heating. It is also important to check the gap between the back wall of the device and the wall of the room: it should be at least 5-7 cm for free air circulation.

Another common reason is loading warm products into the chambers. If you just put a pot of hot soup or a large amount of defrosted meat at room temperature inside, the sensors will detect a sharp jump in heat. In this case LG compressor it will work without interruption until it cools the entire volume to the specified parameters. This is a normal situation, but it takes time, and during this period the unit may consume more energy than usual.

Do not forget about the tightness of the door. If sealing rubber is worn out, dirty or simply not completely closed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The automation system perceives this as a loss of cold and commands the motor to run continuously. Check the cleanliness of the seal and make sure that the door slams tightly around the entire perimeter.

Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors

One of the most common technical reasons why LG refrigerator does not turn off is the failure of the thermostat (thermostat). This mechanical or electronic unit is responsible for closing and opening the compressor power circuit depending on the temperature inside the chamber. If the thermostat contacts are stuck closed, electricity continues to flow to the motor and it runs indefinitely. In models with electronic control, this function is performed temperature sensorswhich can transmit incorrect data to the control module.

Thermostat diagnostics in mechanical models often begin with a visual inspection and “diagnosis” of the contacts with a tester. When the temperature drops, the contacts should open, making a characteristic click. If there is no click, and the temperature in the chamber is already below normal, the regulator is faulty. In refrigerators with a system No Frost and electronic control, the problem may be more complicated: the sensor could oxidize, move away from its seat, or fail due to a power surge in the network.

• 🔍 Symptoms of failure: the refrigerator freezes too much, a snow coat forms on the walls, there is no periodicity in the operation of the motor.
• 🔧 Check method: temporary shutdown of the thermostat or replacing it with a known-good analogue to check the compressor response.
• ❄️ Features of No Frost: in such systems, the evaporator defrost sensor often fails, which is why the cooling cycles are not interrupted on time.

Replacing the thermostat is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills, but in modern models LG with complex electronics, it is better to entrust this work to a specialist so as not to disrupt the calibration of the system.

Problems with the seal and chamber tightness

The tightness of the internal circuit is the key to the efficient operation of any refrigeration equipment. If sealing rubber band the door has lost its elasticity, is deformed, or is simply contaminated with sticky residue, it no longer fits tightly to the body. Through the resulting cracks, warm and humid air from the room constantly penetrates into the chamber. Sensors detect an increase in temperature and command the compressor to turn on again and again, preventing it from going into standby mode.

You can check the tightness using a simple but effective folk method. Take a regular sheet of A4 paper, clamp it with the refrigerator door so that half of the sheet hangs out, and try to pull it out. If the sheet is removed with force and breaks, the tightness is normal. If the paper slides out freely or falls on its own, the seal does not fit in this place. Walk in this way around the entire perimeter of the door, especially in the corners and around the hinges.

⚠️ Attention: If the seal is simply dirty, it can be washed with warm water and mild soap. If the rubber has become stiff, cracked or lost its shape, it is rarely possible to restore its properties using traditional methods (boiling water, hair dryer) - a complete replacement of the part is required.

Often the problem lies not in the rubber itself, but in the misalignment of the door. If the refrigerator has not been serviced for a long time or was installed incorrectly, the door could sag under its own weight. In this case, even a whole seal will not be able to provide a tight fit. Adjusting the hinges is a delicate process that requires precision, but it can completely solve the problem of continuous operation of the motor.

Refrigerant leakage and capillary blockage systems

When a leak occurs in the circulation system freon the pressure drops and there is not enough refrigerant for effective cooling. The compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold by operating in continuous mode. However, despite the constant operation of the motor, the temperature in the chambers may not drop to the desired values ​​or drop very slowly. This is one of the most insidious scenarios, since outwardly everything looks normal, except for humming and lack of cold.

A similar picture is observed when the capillary tube is clogged. The microscopic hole through which freon should enter the evaporator becomes clogged with oil breakdown products or moisture. The circulation of the refrigerant is disrupted, the pressure in the system drops, and the sensors (or thermostat) do not register that the desired temperature has been reached. As a result, compressor it hums without interruption, trying to “push” the system, but does not produce cold.

Diagnosing these problems at home is difficult and requires special equipment - a pressure gauge manifold and a leak detector. However, there are indirect signs indicating a leak or blockage:

• 📉 Weak cooling: food in the main chamber is spoiling, although the freezer may still work.
• 🔥 Heating of the condenser: the grill on the back wall is either cold or hot only at the beginning.
• 🔊 Gurgling sound: instead of a uniform hum, liquid flow or hissing is heard.

Restoring the tightness of the circuit, searching for a leak, evacuating the system and charging with freon are complex technical operations. They require a license from the master and special equipment. It is not recommended to try to eliminate a leak or blockage on your own, as you can permanently damage the system.

Failures in the operation of the control module and electronics

Modern refrigerators LG are equipped with complex electronic control modules that control all processes: from the operation of the compressor to the inclusion of fans and lighting lamps. If a software failure occurs on the control board or one of the elements (relay, capacitor) fails, the module may send incorrect commands. For example, the compressor start relay may “stick” in the closed state, due to which the motor will receive power constantly, regardless of sensor readings.

Often the cause of failures is power surges in the household network. Even if the refrigerator appears to be in good working order on the outside, microscopic damage may have occurred inside the electronic unit. In some models LG with a display on the door, a malfunction may be indicated by an error code that is displayed on the screen. Deciphering this code gives an exact indication of which unit requires attention.