The situation when the upper chamber of the refrigerator Indesit stops cooling food, while the lower compartment (freezer) continues to freeze properly, is one of the most common problems of the owners of this equipment. The owner opens the door and is surprised to discover that the milk has turned sour and the vegetables have lost their freshness, although at first glance the unit hums and makes the usual sounds of operation. This behavior is typical for two-chamber models with one compressor, where the main chamber is cooled by cold air coming from the freezer.
The main reason lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Unlike old models, where each compartment had its own evaporator, in modern No Frost i Low Frost systems the cold is pumped by a fan. If this process is disrupted, the temperature in the upper compartment begins to rise, reaching room temperature, while ice continues to form in the freezer. Understanding the operating principle will help you quickly diagnose a breakdown.
Ignoring the problem at an early stage can lead to compressor failure, the repair of which will cost much more than replacing small parts. It is important to immediately pay attention to the accompanying signs: the presence of ice on the rear wall, unusual noise or its complete absence, as well as the operating mode of the motor. A critical sign is the operation of the compressor without interruptions for several hours in a row in the absence of cold in the upper chamber. Next we will look at the main causes and ways to eliminate them.
Problems with refrigerant: freon leak
The most common technical reason why Indesit stops cooling in the upper compartment is a partial leak of refrigerant (freon) from the circuit. Excessive pressure is created in the system, and over time, microcracks may form at the soldering points or in the heat exchanger itself. When the amount of gas becomes insufficient for a full cycle, it is only enough for intensive cooling of the first section of the evaporator, which is usually located in the freezer.
Freon simply does not reach the upper chamber in the required volume or at the required temperature. The compressor tries to compensate for the lack of cold, working almost non-stop. You may notice that the sides of the refrigerator (where the condenser is often built in) heat up unevenly or remain cold. This is a sure sign that the gas is not circulating in a full cycle.
- ❄️ The compressor hums continuously, trying to increase the temperature, but the sensor does not give a command to turn off.
- ❄️ The freezer is operating normally, and in the refrigerator the temperature is above +10°C.
- ❄️ There is no characteristic uniform layer of frost on the back wall of the freezer, only individual areas are visible.
⚠️ Attention: Independent refilling of the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment and a vacuum pump. An attempt to simply “add” gas without looking for a leak will lead to a repeated breakdown in a few days or weeks.
To eliminate this malfunction, you need to call a technician who will carry out diagnostics using a leak detector, seal the leak, replace the filter drier and charge the system with new refrigerant strictly by weight. Freon is not a consumable material that needs to be changed periodically; its presence in the system must be constant throughout the entire service life of the device.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (No Frost)
If your Indesit equipped system No Frost, then the problem may lie in a malfunction of the defrost cycle. In such models, ice periodically forms on the evaporator, hidden behind a plastic panel in the freezer, which must be removed automatically. The heating element (heating element), defrost sensor and timer (or electronic control module) are responsible for this process.
When one of the circuit elements fails, the ice does not melt, but accumulates. Over time, the snow coat grows so much that it blocks the air ducts. As a result, cold air cannot physically enter the refrigerator compartment. The freezer continues to work, since the evaporator is inside it, but the fan either hums idle or is completely blocked by ice.
How to check the defrosting system without disassembling it?
Plug in the refrigerator and listen. If you hear the fan hum, but no air is blowing from the vents into the refrigerator compartment, the air ducts are most likely clogged with ice. Also a sign may be the characteristic cracking of ice when the fan is operating.
Diagnostics requires checking the resistance of the heating element and the defrost sensor with a multi-meter. Often the heater itself burns out or the sensor gets stuck, which “thinks” that the temperature is already high and does not turn on the heating. It may also fail defrost timer, which switches the “cooling” and “defrosting” modes.
- 🔥 The defrost heating element does not heat up when voltage is applied, which is confirmed by the tester.
- 🔥 Defrost sensor shows incorrect resistance, blocking the start of the defrost cycle.
- 🔥 The fan is frozen and cannot rotate, making extraneous noise or is silent.
The solution is to replace the faulty element. If the problem is detected in time, sometimes it is enough to completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours (by unplugging it from the network with the doors open) for the ice to melt and the appliance to work. However, if the reason is a burnt heating element, the situation will repeat itself in a week.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why Indesit it does not cool well in the upper compartment is a clogged capillary tube. The freon circulation system uses a very thin tube, the diameter of which is a fraction of a millimeter. During operation, moisture, oil oxidation products or small debris may enter the refrigerant, which leads to the formation of an ice or oil plug.
When blocked, gas circulation is disrupted or completely stopped in a certain area. The pressure in the system drops and the compressor cannot push freon through the blockage. The symptoms are very similar to a leak: the freezer is freezing (since some of the gas is there), but the refrigerator is warm. The compressor may operate with overheating or shut down due to thermal protection.
To remove the blockage, technicians use the method of pressing with nitrogen under high pressure or use a special solvent liquid. In difficult cases, the capillary tube needs to be replaced, which is a labor-intensive process that requires opening the thermal insulation of the housing.
| Symptom | Freon leak | Capillary clogged | Problem with defrost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Works without stopping | Works with overheating or cyclically | Works in normal mode |
| Condenser temperature | Cold or warm partially | Hot before the blockage, cold after | Normal |
| Frost in the freezer | Absent or in shreds | Absent or uneven | Snow coat on the evaporator |
| Gurgling sound | Often heard | Rarely or absent | Not heard |
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
In older models Indesit with mechanical control, thermostatis responsible for maintaining the temperature. This is a device that, when a set temperature is reached, opens the compressor power circuit. If its sensitive element (bellows) is depressurized or the settings are lost, the refrigerator may “not see” that the chamber is already warm and not turn on the motor, or vice versa - not turn it off.
In modern models with electronic control (Full No Frost), the function of a thermostat is performed by air sensors temperature. They are located directly in the refrigerator compartment. If such a sensor gives incorrect readings (for example, it “thinks” that the chamber is -5°C, although it is +15°C), the control module will not start the compressor. As a result, the freezer can remain cold due to inertia, and the upper chamber will defrost.
Checking the thermostat in mechanical models is simple: you can temporarily close its contacts. If the refrigerator starts working and starts freezing, the device is faulty and requires replacement. In electronic models, diagnostics are carried out through test mode or with a multimeter by measuring the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures.
- 🎛️ The mechanical thermostat does not make a click when turning the knob or rings like a break.
- 🎛️ The electronic sensor shows a resistance that does not correspond to the current temperature of the environment.
- 🎛️ The compressor does not turn on at all, although the chamber is warm and the light is on.
Replacing the thermostat is one of the simplest and most inexpensive procedures. It is important to choose an analogue with identical parameters, since different models are designed for different temperature ranges and capillary tube lengths (for mechanics).
Problems with the seal and heat loss
Sometimes the reason for the lack of cold lies not in the internal “filling”, but in a violation of the chamber’s tightness. Rubber seal doors dry out over time, crack or become deformed. If the door does not fit tightly, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. The cooling system cannot cope with such a volume of heat, and the temperature in the refrigerator rises.
The freezer can continue to work, since it opens less often and its volume is smaller. However, a constant flow of warm air leads to increased formation of ice in the freezer and increased energy consumption. You can check the tightness of the fit using a sheet of paper: clamp it with the door around the perimeter - it should be pulled out with force.
⚠️ Attention: Frequently opening the door or placing hot foods in the chamber can also cause a temporary increase in temperature. Give the equipment 4-6 hours to return to mode before sounding the alarm.
If the seal is dirty, just wash it with warm soapy water. If it is deformed, you can try straightening it with a hairdryer (heating it and straightening out the creases). In case of tears or loss of elasticity, only complete replacement of the tape will help. Also check the door hinges: if they are skewed, even a new seal will not ensure tightness.
Malfunctions of the blower fan
In systems No Frost a special fan is responsible for the distribution of cold air. It is located in the freezer compartment and blows air through ducts into the refrigerator compartment. If the fan fails (the motor winding is burnt out, the bearings are jammed or the blades are broken), circulation stops.
As a result, the cold is retained in the freezer (since there is a source of cold there), and it does not enter the upper chamber. You can hear the compressor running, but there is no characteristic wind noise or fan hum. Or, on the contrary, an unpleasant grinding noise is heard, indicating mechanical damage.
To check the fan, you need to remove the back panel in the freezer (after defrosting the refrigerator). When the freezer door is open (and the door sensor is pressed, if there is one), the fan should start working. If it stands still or rotates with difficulty, replacement is required.
☑️ Fan diagnostics
When you need to call a technician
There are a number of situations when self-repair is not only ineffective, but also dangerous. If you have identified a freon leak, a clogged capillary system, or a malfunction that requires soldering tubes and working with high pressure, you cannot do without professional equipment. A technician is also needed if the problem lies in the electronic control module, where flashing or replacement of microcircuits is required.
Attempts to “treat” the refrigerator using traditional methods, such as puncturing the housing to “vent air” or self-refilling with spray cans, often lead to the final breakdown of the unit. Professional repair includes not only eliminating the symptom, but also searching for the root cause, which guarantees long service life of the equipment after restoration.
Timely contacting specialists will help preserve products and avoid costly replacement of the compressor. Remember that regular defrosting (even for No Frost systems, preventive maintenance once a year will not hurt) and cleaning the drainage holes will extend the life of your Indesit for many years.
Why does the refrigerator not turn on after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (more than 24 hours) the refrigerator does not turn on turns on, the compressor starting relay may have failed or the motor itself has burned out. The cause may also be a malfunction of the thermostat, which is “stuck” in the “off” position. It is necessary to check the presence of voltage at the compressor terminals.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not work?
You can operate the equipment in this mode only for a short time while you are waiting for a technician or spare parts. Prolonged operation with a faulty cooling system (especially if the compressor is running non-stop) will lead to overheating and combustion. In addition, the food in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate.
How long should the refrigerator cool down after transportation?
If the refrigerator was transported lying down, it must be allowed to stand in an upright position for at least 4-6 hours (preferably a day) before turning it on. This is necessary so that the compressor oil flows back into the compressor crankcase. Turning on ahead of time can lead to water hammer and breakdown of the compressor.
What to do if water appears in the refrigerator?
The appearance of water on the floor or on the shelves is often associated with a clogged drainage hole. It is located on the back wall of the refrigerator compartment. Clean it with a special flexible brush or soft wire, then pour some warm water into it to check the drainage. Also, water may be a result of a loose door fit.