(Contained in the block above)
The situation when the refrigerator Indesit stops cooling food in the main compartment, but the freezer continues to work properly, is one of the most common and alarming for the owner. Unlike a complete equipment failure, when the compressor is silent, here the system seems to be functioning, but the distribution of cold is disrupted. This often indicates hidden malfunctions in the refrigerant circulation system or problems with temperature control.
Users often ignore the first symptoms, relying on the fact that since the freezer is freezing, the main compartment will soon get better. However, it is precisely this failure model that is characteristic of gradual freon leaks or failure of the thermostat. Ignoring the problem at an early stage can lead to damage to products and more expensive repairs that require a complete recharge of the system.
In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanics of single-compressor systems No Frost and static cooling typical for the brand Indesit. You will learn how to independently carry out initial diagnostics, distinguish a software failure from a serious mechanical breakdown and understand when calling a technician becomes inevitable.
The operating principle and distribution of cold in Indesit refrigerators
To understand the essence of the breakdown, you need to understand how exactly the cold gets into different chambers. Most models Indesit use one compressor that pumps refrigerant. In systems with No Frost cold is generated in an evaporator hidden behind the back wall of the freezer, and then a fan blows this air through both compartments through special channels.
If you have a model with drip system (crying evaporator), then the main evaporator is located in the freezer, and the cold is in the upper compartment enters either by gravity or through a damper that regulates the air flow. Malfunction of any element of this chain - from the damper to the fan - leads to the fact that there is ice in the freezer, but there is heat in the refrigerator.
It is critically important to understand the difference between the absence of cold and insufficient cooling. If the temperature in the main chamber is +15...+20°C, then most likely there is a problem with air circulation or control. If there is +25°C (room temperature), this may indicate that the compressor is idling or the freon has completely left the circuit.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to open the back panel of the freezer in No Frost models yourself if you have not unplugged the appliance and defrosted it within 24 hours. There may be an electric heater inside, and frozen ice, when removed mechanically, will damage the thin evaporator tubes, which will lead to an instant gas leak.
Main causes of malfunction: from simple to complex
Diagnostics should always begin by excluding trivial causes. Often equipment owners Indesit face panic due to incorrect settings or banal overload of cameras with products. Before looking for a breakdown in the “internals”, check external factors.
One of the common reasons is a broken door seal or incorrect temperature setting. If you have recently changed the settings or have not checked the seal in a long time, the problem may lie here. It is also worth remembering whether defrosting was carried out recently - after it, the equipment takes time (up to 24 hours) to return to mode.
- 🌡️ Incorrect thermostat setting: In mechanical models, the handle could accidentally move to the “minimum” position, and in electronic models, the program could go wrong.
- 🚪 Damage to the seal: The rubber band could come off, become dirty or cracked, causing warm air to constantly get inside.
- 📦 Violation of loading rules: Products may block the outlet openings for cold air, blocking its circulation.
- 💡 Constantly burning lamp: If the door is not up to The end is closed, the light bulb heats the chamber, and the compressor cannot cope with the heat flow.
If after checking these points the situation has not changed, and the refrigerator Indesit still does not freeze, you will have to move on to a more in-depth analysis of the technical components. It is important to note that in modern electronically controlled models, the cause may be a failure of the control module, which incorrectly reads the sensor readings.
Malfunction of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (or temperature sensor in electronic models) is the “eyes” of the refrigerator. It is he who tells the compressor when to turn on to cool the chamber, and when to turn off. If this element fails, the compressor may simply “not know” that it has become warm in the refrigerator and not start, although the freezer still keeps cold by inertia.
In mechanical models Indesit a capillary thermostat is installed. Its sensing tube is attached to the evaporator. Over time, the gas inside the tube may evaporate through microcracks, or the contacts inside the relay itself may oxidize. In this case, the circuit does not close and the engine does not start. The symptom is often that the refrigerator is silent, but if you tap on the thermostat or turn the knob, it may turn on briefly.
In models with a system No Frost and electronic control, air sensors are responsible for the temperature. They are located at different points in the chambers. If the main chamber sensor “lies” and shows that it is -5°C (although in fact +15°C), the control module will not give the command to cool. Replacing such a sensor is a quick procedure, but requires disassembling the internal casing.
| Sensor/thermostat type | Location | Failure symptom | Difficulty of replacement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mechanical thermostat | Inside the chamber or behind the panel | The compressor does not turn on at all | Low |
| Defrost sensor | On the evaporator (in freezer) | Ice build-up, cooling stops | Medium |
| Air sensor | At the top of the chamber | Incorrect temperature mode | Low |
| Evaporator sensor | Directly on the radiator | Failures in defrosting cycles | High |
Diagnostics thermostat at home is possible using a multimeter in dialing mode. When cooling (or heating, depending on the type), the contacts must close or open. However, accurate diagnosis of electronic sensors often requires connecting to the service menu or using a special tester.
Problems with the defrost system (Defrost) in No Frost
If your Indesit is equipped with a system No Frost, then one of the most likely reasons that it stopped freezing in the main compartment is a failure in the automatic defrosting system. The essence of the problem is that the evaporator, located behind the back wall of the freezer, becomes covered with ice. This ice blocks the operation of the fan and blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the upper chamber.
Visually this can manifest itself as follows: the freezer is very cold (at the bottom), but it is warm at the top. Or you may hear the noise of a fan trying to blow through the ice plug, but not being able to. After a few days, the ice may melt (if the compressor turns off due to overload), water will flow inside or under the refrigerator, and for a short time the cold will appear again, only to then disappear again.
Three main elements are responsible for the defrosting process:
1. Heating element defrost (heating element).
2. Defrost sensor (defrost thermostat).
3. Defrost timer (or electronic control module).
How to check the defrost heating element?
To check the heating element, you need to get to the evaporator (remove the back panel in the freezer). The heating element is a curved tube. Test it with a multimeter: the resistance should be in the range of 200-400 Ohms. If the device shows a break (one or infinity), the heating element has burned out and requires replacement. Also inspect it visually for swelling or tears.
Often owners are not aware of the existence of this problem until they have completely defrosted the refrigerator for 24 hours. If after a day of defrosting with the doors open, the refrigerator Indesit begins to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns - this is 99% a malfunction of the defrosting system.
Freon leakage and problems with the compressor
The most serious and expensive reason for the lack of cold is a leak refrigerant (freon) or compressor malfunction. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a fistula (microscopic hole) forms in the tube, the gas gradually evaporates. Since freon is lighter than air, it goes up, so first of all the cold in the upper chamber ceases to be enough, while residual cold or condensation still remains in the freezer.
Symptoms of a freon leak are quite specific. The compressor works almost non-stop, hums continuously, trying to gain temperature, but does not produce cold. In this case, the motor itself may be hot, and the condenser (grid at the back) may be barely warm or cold. In normal mode, the condenser should be warm along its entire length.
⚠️ Attention: If you find an oily stain under the refrigerator or on the tubes inside, this is an almost guaranteed sign of a leak. The oil comes out along with the gas. In this case, independent repair is impossible - searching for the leak, soldering and professional refueling are required.
Another option is breakdown of itself compressor. It may hum, but not create the necessary pressure in the system (do not pump). This often happens after power surges. In such cases, the motor is running, the inlet and outlet tubes may have the same temperature, but there is no gas circulation. It is also possible for the winding to break, then the compressor will be silent, although electricity is supplied to it.
Modern inverter compressor models Indesit are more sensitive to voltage drops. Their diagnosis requires special equipment. If you hear a start click, a hum for 2-3 seconds and a click again (protection), the compressor is trying to start, but cannot. This could be either a malfunction of the starting relay or a wedge of the motor itself.
☑️ Diagnostics of the compressor operation
Clogged capillary tube and other mechanical defects
Another technical reason, why the refrigerator Indesit doesn't freeze - it's a clogged capillary tube. This is the thinnest copper tube through which freon enters the evaporator. Over time, oil oxidation products or moisture can accumulate in the system, which turns into an ice plug. This creates an obstacle to the circulation of the refrigerant.
Signs of a blockage are similar to a freon leak: the compressor runs for a long time, the condenser may only be hot at the beginning, and the evaporator does not cool. However, unlike a leak, when there is a blockage, the pressure in the system can be normal or increased in the area before the plug. Only a master with a pressure gauge manifold can distinguish between these two faults.
It is also worth mentioning mechanical damage. If you recently cleaned your refrigerator and used sharp objects to remove ice, you may have punctured the evaporator. In this case, the gas comes out very quickly, and the refrigerator stops freezing in a matter of hours. The characteristic hissing sound when punctured is a clear signal of depressurization.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long do you need to wait after turning on for the refrigerator to start freezing?
After the first installation or long-term transportation of the refrigerator Indesit it takes from 2 to 24 hours to reach operating mode. During this time, do not load food tightly or open doors frequently. If after 24 hours the temperature does not decrease, then there is a malfunction.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it does not freeze, but works?
It is strictly not recommended. If the cause is a leak, the compressor will wear out without cooling, which will lead to its combustion. If the problem is in the defrost system, the ice may damage the fan or cause a short circuit. It is better to turn off the device until the reasons are found out.
Why is there ice in the freezer, but warm in the refrigerator?
This is a classic symptom for two types of problems: either a freon leak (there is only enough gas for a small volume of the freezer), or clogging of the air channels with ice in the No Frost system (the cold physically cannot pass into the upper chamber).
Is it worth changing the thermostat yourself?
If you have a mechanical model and have the skills to work with tools, replacing the thermostat is possible. However, in electronic models or if access to the evaporator is required, it is better to call a specialist. Incorrect installation of the sensor will lead to incorrect operation of the entire unit.
What should you do if, after defrosting, the refrigerator started working, but after a week it stopped working again?
This is a sure sign of a malfunction of the defrosting system (the heating element, timer or sensor has burned out). Ice had accumulated again and was blocking air circulation. Diagnosis and replacement of the faulty element of the No Frost system is required.