The situation when the upper chamber in the refrigerator suddenly stops cooling, but the freezer continues to freeze food properly, often causes panic. Owners of household appliances fear that the refrigerator shelves have reached room temperature and all supplies are spoiled. However, in modern models, especially with the system No Frost, such a temperature asymmetry is a classic symptom indicating a specific breakdown unit, and not the complete destruction of the unit.
The problem may lie in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure in the heat removal system. It is important to understand that the compressor is most likely working properly, since the temperature in the freezer remains low. Indesit refrigerators, Atlant and LG have similar logic for the operation of evaporators, so the troubleshooting algorithm will be universal. In this article, we will look at why air stopped flowing into the upper compartment and whether it is possible to fix the problem yourself.
The first thing to do is to assess the scale of the disaster. If the food in the refrigerator compartment has been warm for several hours, and condensation or ice has formed on the walls, this is a signal for immediate diagnosis. Ignoring the problem can lead to damage to expensive products and complicate repairs.
Principle of operation and distribution of cold
To understand why the cold disappeared in the main chamber, you need to briefly recall the device two-chamber refrigerator. Most modern models use one compressor and one refrigeration circuit. The cold is produced in the freezer, and then the fan drives the cold air through special channels into the refrigerator compartment. If this process is disrupted, the temperature in the upper compartment begins to rise, while everything below remains frozen.
The key element here is the air circulation system. In models with No Frost a fan and a damper that regulates the flow are responsible for this. In drip systems (“crying refrigerator”), cold air rises naturally or through channels from an evaporator located in the rear wall. Violation of the tightness of the circuit or breakdown of the control electronics upsets this delicate balance.
It is worth noting that some budget models, such as old Biryusa refrigerators or Stinol, may have two evaporators, but they operate from one compressor. In such cases, the refrigerant distribution is controlled by a solenoid valve. If the valve sticks in the “freezer only” position, the upper chamber will remain warm.
Understanding the physics of the process helps to avoid unnecessary expenses. Often users start looking for a freon leak, although the problem may be purely mechanical - for example, a frozen duct or a burnt out fan motor. Diagnostics should begin with simple checks that do not require tools.
Main reasons for the lack of cold in the upper chamber
There are several main reasons why the refrigerator has stopped freezing in the upper compartment. The most common one is a refrigerant leak. Gas can escape through microcracks in the circuit, often in the foamed part of the housing or at the junction of the tubes. When freon leaks, the cold at first stops reaching the most remote point - usually the top shelf of the refrigerator compartment, while the freezer, where the concentration of cold is higher, still maintains the temperature.
The second most popular reason is a clogged capillary tube. An ice plug or blockage with oil and compressor oxidation products may form in the circulation system. This prevents the normal flow of freon through the circuit. The pressure in the system drops, and the refrigerant simply does not reach the evaporator of the refrigerator compartment, remaining in the condenser or freezer.
The third important factor is a malfunction of the fan or damper. In No Frost systems, the fan may freeze up and stop, or its winding may burn out. Without forced circulation, cold air remains in the freezer. The air damper, which physically blocks the air supply channel to the upper compartment, may also jam.
Hidden causes of failure
In rare cases, the problem lies in the control module. The electronics may mistakenly assume that the temperature is normal and not give a command to cool the upper chamber. It is also possible that the temperature sensor (thermostat) fails, which reads the readings incorrectly.
The wear of the compressor is worth mentioning separately. If the unit is old, its power may not be enough to pump freon through the full circuit. In this case, pressure is created only in the first circuit (freezer), and there is no longer any resource left for the second circuit (refrigerator). This is typical for equipment that has worked for more than 10-12 years.
Diagnostics: how to determine the breakdown yourself
Before calling a technician, you can carry out an initial diagnosis. It will help you understand the approximate nature of the malfunction and the cost of future repairs. Start by visually inspecting and listening to the operation of the unit. If the compressor runs continuously without turning off, and there is no cold in the upper chamber, this is a sure sign freon leakage or clogging.
Check the operation of the fan. Open the freezer door (in No Frost systems). If the fan does not make noise when the door is open (on some models it should run all the time, on others it should only run when the door is closed), it may be faulty. Also pay attention to ice: if the back wall of the freezer is covered with a thick layer of fur, and the refrigerator compartment is warm, the defrosting system cannot cope.
An important indicator is the condition of the condenser (grids at the back or on the sides). If the tubes are only partially hot or, conversely, cold everywhere except the area near the compressor, this indicates a problem with the circulation of the refrigerant. Normally, the grate should be evenly warm.
If you have a two-compressor refrigerator (a separate motor for each chamber), then the situation is simpler: most likely, one of the compressors or thermostats has failed. In such models Bosch refrigerators or Siemens the upper and lower chambers are independent, and the breakdown of one unit does not affect the other.
Instructions: what to do first
If you find that The refrigerator is not cooling, follow these steps. They can help with simple cases or prepare equipment for professional repair. The main thing is to act consistently and safely.
The first step should be complete defrosting. Even if you No Frost, ice could form inside the case, in hidden channels. Unplug the refrigerator, remove all food, and leave it with the doors open for at least 24 hours. This is necessary so that all ice plugs melt.
After defrosting, turn on the equipment and wait 5-7 hours. Do not load the chambers with products immediately. Allow the unit to reach temperature. If cold appears and lasts for several days, and then disappears again, the problem is in the defrosting system (heating element, timer, sensor). If the cold does not appear at all, the matter is more serious (leakage, compressor).
☑️ Algorithm of actions in case of breakdown
Check the tightness of the doors. If the seal (elastic band) is worn out or dirty, warm air enters the chamber. The compressor tries to cool it, but due to the constant influx of heat it cannot cope. Wipe the seal and check its fit around the entire perimeter.
Table of symptoms and possible malfunctions
For ease of diagnosis, we will summarize the main symptoms in a table. This will help you more accurately formulate the problem when talking with a technician or when searching for spare parts.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Necessary parts |
|---|---|---|---|
| The compressor runs constantly, there is no cold | Freon leakage | High | Freon, solder, possibly a filter drier |
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm, there is ice in the freezer | Faulty defrost system (heating element, sensor) | Average | Evaporator heating element, defrost sensor, timer |
| The sound of a running fan is heard, but there is no cold | Clogged air channel or broken damper | Low/Medium | Damper, damper motor |
| The compressor hums and clicks, but does not start | Faulty start relay or compressor | Medium/High | Start relay, compressor |
| Cold appears after defrosting, then disappears | Capillary tube freezing (moisture in the system) | High | Replacing the filter-drier, vacuuming |
As can be seen from the table, many problems require specialist intervention. You can replace the heating element or sensor yourself if you have the skills to work with a multimeter. However filling with freon soldering pipes requires a license and special equipment.
If you find your case in the table with high complexity, do not take risks. Unprofessional repair of the cooling system often leads to the final failure of the compressor, which makes the repair economically unfeasible.
DIY Repair of the No Frost system
If the diagnostics indicated a problem with the defrosting system (ice in the freezer, the cold disappears periodically), you can try to perform the repair yourself. You will need: a multimeter, screwdrivers and possibly a new heating element or sensor. First, get to the evaporator by removing the back panel in the freezer.
Visually inspect the defrost heating element. It is a curved tube or spiral under the evaporator. If breaks or damage are visible, the part requires replacement. Next, you need to “ring” the heating element and sensor with a multimeter in resistance measurement mode. If the device shows infinity (break), the element is faulty.
Replacing parts is usually not difficult. You need to remove the old part, disconnecting the terminals, and install a new one. It is important to place the sensor correctly in its socket; thermal paste is often used for this purpose for better heat transfer. After assembly, check the operation of the system.
⚠️ Attention: When working with the electrical components of the refrigerator, be sure to unplug it! Even after switching off, a residual charge may remain in the capacitors. Be careful with plastic elements - in the cold they become fragile and break easily.
The defrost sensor is often replaced along with the heating element, since their service life is approximately the same. Preventative replacement helps to avoid repeated breakdowns after a few months. Do not ignore the condition of the wiring: if the insulation of the wires is melted, they need to be replaced or carefully insulated.
When you need to call a technician
There are a number of situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If you suspect a freon leak (oily spots in the soldering area, whistling when the compressor is running), you cannot cope with this on your own. A search for leaks, soldering and vacuuming of the system are required.
A master is also needed if the compressor fails. Replacing a motor-compressor is a complex procedure that requires overhauling the entire refrigeration system. In addition, modern inverter compressors require special settings, which can only be done through the service interface.
If the problem does not disappear after defrosting and checking the electrical system, it is better to contact a professional. The technician's diagnostics are often free or inexpensive, but you will know for sure whether the problem is worth the trouble. Repairing an old refrigerator may cost more than buying a new one.
⚠️ Attention: The use of flammable gases (propane-butane) as a refrigerant (labeled R600a) requires special care. A spark may cause an explosion. All work on a system containing R600a must be carried out in a well-ventilated area without open flame sources.
Remember that the equipment warranty is only valid when contacting authorized service centers. Independent intervention in the design (opening seals, soldering) will void the manufacturer’s warranty. If the warranty period has not yet expired, do not take risks.
Prevention and care of the refrigerator
To avoid situations where the refrigerator does not freeze, it is important to properly care for the equipment. Defrost the unit regularly (even No Frost systems require preventative defrosting once a year). This will help prevent the formation of ice plugs in hidden channels.
Keep the condenser clean. Dust and animal hair, settling on the black grille at the back, impair heat transfer. The compressor overheats and operates under overload. Vacuum the back wall of the refrigerator every six months. Also check the door seals for cracks and dirt.
Do not overload the refrigerator with food and do not put hot food inside. This places excess load on the cooling system. Distribute food so that it does not block the ventilation openings inside the chambers. Air circulation must be free.
Following these simple rules will extend the life of your refrigerator by several years. Regular inspection and careful attention to the sounds that the equipment makes will help you notice the problem at an early stage, when repairs are still cheap and easy.
Why does the refrigerator click but does not turn on?
The clicking sound is usually made by the start relay, trying to start the compressor. If the click is not followed by a humming sound from the motor, it means that the relay cannot start the compressor (the relay itself has burned out) or the compressor itself has jammed. In the first case, repairs are cheap, in the second, the motor needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze in the upper chamber?
For a short time - yes, food can be moved down. But it is impossible to operate the equipment for a long time in this mode. The compressor will work non-stop, trying to gain temperature, which will lead to overheating and burnout of the windings. This will turn a simple repair into a complex compressor replacement.
How long does it take for the refrigerator to gain temperature after defrosting?
Usually the process takes from 2 to 5 hours, depending on the model and the volume of the chambers. The first signs of cold should appear after 30-40 minutes of work. If after 5-6 hours the compressor does not turn off and the temperature does not drop, then there is a malfunction.
What to do if there is water in the refrigerator compartment?
Water may appear due to a clogged drainage hole (if it is a drip system) or due to the fact that melt water from defrosting does not have time to evaporate. Check the hole in the back wall inside the chamber - clean it with a brush or soft wire. Also check the water tray above the compressor at the back.