The situation when in freezer compartment The food is securely frozen, and there is warmth in the refrigerator compartment, familiar to many owners of household appliances. This is a classic symptom that indicates a refrigerant circulation problem or a control system failure. Unlike a complete failure of equipment, when the compressor is silent, here the unit seems to be functioning, but does not fulfill its main task of maintaining the temperature in all chambers.
Often users ignore the first signs, such as melted ice cream or condensation on the back wall, until the food begins to deteriorate. Understanding that why the refrigerator stopped coolingbut continues to freeze will help you avoid costly repairs or loss of food supplies. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction.
Modern models, be it Indesit, Atlant or Bosch, can demonstrate similar symptoms with different breakdowns. It is important not to panic and consistently check key components. Sometimes the problem is solved by simple defrosting, and in other cases you need to call a technician to replace compressor or refill with freon.
Breach of system tightness and leakage of freon
The most common reason why the refrigerator does not freeze well in the upper compartment, there is a partial leak of refrigerant. Freon circulates in a closed loop, and if a microscopic hole appears in the tubes, the pressure drops. The gas evaporates, and its quantity is only enough to cool the evaporator located in the freezer, but the refrigerant simply does not reach the refrigeration chamber.
Leaks often occur in places where pipes are soldered or in foamed parts of the body due to corrosion or mechanical damage. You may notice that the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to reach the set temperature, but thermostat does not turn it off. In this case, the lower part of the rear grille may be barely warm, while the upper part remains cold.
⚠️ Attention: Freon is odorless and colorless, so it is impossible to detect a leak by smell. If you see oily spots under the refrigerator or on the pipes at the back, this is a sure sign of depressurization of the system.
For an accurate diagnosis, the technician uses a leak detector or the water immersion method (if the circuit is dismantled). Finding the leak on your own is difficult, as it may be hidden in the insulation. Restoring the tightness requires soldering and subsequent vacuumization of the system.
Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor
In older models In refrigerators, mechanical controls are responsible for temperature control. If it fails, it may not signal the compressor to turn on when the refrigerator compartment gets warm. However, in the situation “the freezer is working, the refrigerator is not,” the opposite scenario or a specific failure occurs more often when the sensor “thinks” that there is already cold. thermostat. If it fails, it may not signal the compressor to turn on when the refrigerator compartment gets warm. However, in the situation “the freezer is working, the refrigerator is not,” the opposite scenario or a specific failure occurs more often, when the sensor “thinks” that there is already cold.
In modern units with a system No Frost or electronic control, air sensors are used. If the refrigerator compartment sensor “lies” and shows that it is +2°C, although in fact it is +10°C, the compressor will not turn on or will turn on too late. In this case, the freezer can be cooled due to residual cold or a separate circuit.
Checking the thermostat is often performed by elimination. In mechanical models, you can temporarily close the regulator contacts. If after this the refrigerator “starts up” and starts to cool, it means the part requires replacement. In electronic models, diagnostics with a multimeter is required.
Problems with the defrost system (No Frost)
If you have a refrigerator with a system No Frostthen ice should not form on the evaporator. However, if the defrosting system fails, the evaporator becomes overgrown with a “fur coat” that blocks the ventilation ducts. Cold air physically cannot flow from the freezer to the refrigerator compartment.
In this case, the freezer works properly, since the evaporator is located there, but the cold is “locked” behind a layer of ice. The refrigerator compartment becomes warm and food spoils. The main culprits for this situation:
- ❄️ Defrost heating element —a heating element that could burn out and stop melting the ice.
- ⏱️ Defrost timer —a mechanism that does not switch the refrigerator to defrost mode at the right time.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor —a sensor that does not give a command to turn on the heating element, “believing” that there is no ice.
You can diagnose this problem visually if you remove the back panel in the freezer. If you see a huge lump of ice hiding the radiator fins, then the problem is in the defrost cycle. Complete defrosting of the refrigerator for 24 hours can temporarily solve the problem, but to completely eliminate it, you need to change the faulty part.
Why can’t you pick the ice with a knife?
Mechanical removal of ice with sharp objects often leads to breakdown of the evaporator. If you puncture the tube, the freon will instantly evaporate and moisture will enter the system. Repair in this case will become much more expensive and complicated, requiring replacement of the evaporator and compressor.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a very thin channel through which freon flows from the condenser to the evaporator. If moisture or oil breakdown products become trapped in the circulation system, an ice blockage or particulate blockage may form. This prevents the normal flow of refrigerant.
If there is partial blockage, the pressure at the inlet to the evaporator drops. Freon boils ahead of time, cooling only the initial section of the circuit (freezer), and does not reach the refrigerator compartment in the required volume. Symptoms can be floating: the refrigerator either freezes or stops.
To remove the blockage, technicians use the method of purging with nitrogen under high pressure. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the filter-drier, which is precisely what is supposed to retain moisture and dirt. If the filter has not been changed for a long time, it itself can cause blockage of the system.
Wear of the compressor
The compressor is the heart of the refrigerator. Over time, its performance may decline. The motor hums and runs, but does not create enough pressure to pump freon throughout the entire circuit. As a result, the gas circulates only in a small circle or at an insufficient speed, which provides cold only in the freezer.
Only a specialist can determine compressor wear using a manometric manifold. If the discharge pressure is below normal and the engine current consumption is normal or slightly underestimated, the compressor valves are most likely worn out. In this case, only replacing the unit will help.
It is also worth checking the starting relay. If it is burnt, the compressor may hum but not start or work intermittently. However, in the case of a working freezer, the relay is most often in good condition, since the motor still starts.
Symptom diagnosis table
So that you are It’s easier to navigate the possible reasons; we’ve compiled a summary table. It will help to compare visible signs with a probable breakdown.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is warm, the compressor runs non-stop | Freon leak | Medium (requires soldering) |
| There is a coat of ice in the freezer, it’s warm in the refrigerator | Faulty defrost system (No Frost) | Low (replacement of heating element/sensor) |
| The refrigerator turns on rarely, there is no temperature anywhere or only in the freezer | Thermostat/sensor is faulty | Low |
| The compressor hums, but there is little cold, the operating cycles are strange | Clogged capillary tube | High (purge required) |
| The motor gets very hot, hums, there is no cold | Compressor wear | High (motor replacement) |
What can you do yourself?
Before calling a technician, follow a number of simple steps. Sometimes the reason is simple. Check if food is blocking the ventilation holes inside the chamber. Make sure the door closes tightly and the seal is not damaged. If there is a lot of snow in the chamber, carry out complete defrosting within 24 hours.
If after defrosting the refrigerator worked for a day and the situation repeated itself, then the problem is technical. Do not try to open sealed tubes yourself or change the compressor without skills - this is dangerous and can completely destroy the equipment.
☑️ Action plan in case of breakdown
Prevention and proper care
To extend the life of the refrigerator, do not place hot foods in the chamber. This puts extra stress on the compressor and leads to the formation of excess ice. Regularly wash the drainage hole (if there is one) so that condensation can drain freely.
Once a year, it is advisable to vacuum the condenser (the grille at the back or bottom), since dust impairs heat transfer. Also monitor the installation level: if the refrigerator is skewed, the door may not close completely, letting warm air in.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use hair dryers, heaters or sharp objects to speed up defrosting. A sudden temperature change can damage the plastic and evaporator tubes, which will lead to freon leakage.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can you use a refrigerator if it does not freeze in the upper compartment?
Short-term - yes, if you transfer perishable foods to freezer. However, it is impossible to operate equipment with a malfunction for a long time: the compressor will wear out without shutting down, which will lead to its combustion. In addition, bacteria will quickly multiply in a warm chamber.
How much does it cost to repair if the refrigerator stops cooling?
The cost depends on the breakdown. Replacing the thermostat or sensor will cost the least. Freon refilling and leak detection are more expensive. The most expensive procedure is replacing the compressor. The technician will tell you the exact amount after diagnosis.
Why did the refrigerator start working after defrosting, but a week later it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a blockage in the system or an incipient freon leak. Defrosting temporarily eliminates the ice plug or allows freon residue to circulate, but the root of the problem (a hole in the tube or debris in the capillary) remains.
Does it need to be replaced if the compressor hums but does not pump?
Yes, if diagnostics have confirmed a loss of performance (low discharge pressure). It is usually pointless to “treat” old compressors; their service life has already expired. Replacement is the only reliable solution.