Situation, when Pozis refrigerator works properly in the lower compartment, but stops cooling the upper chamber, this is a classic sign of a failure in the air circulation system. Most often this applies to models equipped with technology No Frost or complete defrosting, where the cold is pumped by a fan from the freezer. The user notices that the food in the refrigerator compartment begins to deteriorate, the temperature rises above the set +4...+5 degrees, although the compressor continues to hum.
The first thing the owner needs to do is to eliminate external factors, such as a loosely closed door or clogged ventilation holes. If the door is closed hermetically, and there is stuffiness inside, then the problem lies in internal components the unit. A disruption in the circulation of the refrigerant or a malfunction of the control electronics can lead to the fact that the cold simply does not reach the upper tier.
It is important to understand that ignoring the problem at an early stage can lead to complete defrosting of the evaporator and failure of the compressor due to constant wear and tear. If the upper chamber does not freeze, but the lower one works, this almost always indicates a violation of air circulation or icing of the air ducts. Further actions depend on the exact model of your device and the presence of specific symptoms, such as extraneous noise or the presence of ice on the back wall.
Diagnostics of the No Frost and circulation system air
The main reason for the lack of cold in the upper compartment of refrigerators Pozis is the stop of the fan, which is supposed to remove cold air from the freezer. During normal operation, you should hear a low hum or feel a rush of air when you open the door slightly. If the fan is standing still, it means that either its motor has burned out, or it is jammed with ice, or it is not receiving a signal from the control board.
A situation often occurs when evaporator a “coat” of ice becomes overgrown, which tightly blocks the fan blades. This occurs due to a malfunction of the defrost system. As a result, the ice plug blocks the channels through which cold should enter the refrigerator compartment. Visually, this may appear in the form of frost on the back wall or in the corners of the chamber, although the wall itself may be dry.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to forcefully spin the fan or knock on it may lead to destruction of the blades and the entry of fragments into the motor section.
For accurate diagnostics, it is necessary to completely defrost the unit. Unplug the refrigerator for at least 12 to 24 hours, leaving the doors open. If, after turning on and setting the temperature, the fan started working and cold appeared, the problem lay in the defrost system. If the fan is silent even after defrosting, you will need to check its electrical multim circuit
etrom.- ❄️ Check whether frozen ice is interfering with the rotation of the blades.
- 🔌 Ring the fan motor winding for a break.
- 🧊 Inspect the air ducts between cameras for the presence of snow jams.
Malfunctions of the defrosting system: heating element, timer and sensors
If defrosting helped temporarily, but after a week the situation repeated itself, it means that one of the elements of the automatic defrosting system has failed. In refrigerators Pozis there are three main components responsible for this process: Evaporator heating element, defrost sensor (thermostat) and a timer (or electronic module). If at least one of them does not work, the ice does not melt, the channels become clogged, and circulation stops.
Most often the heating element itself burns out heating element (heating element). It is a tube built into the evaporator or located under it. You can check its integrity by getting to the evaporator (usually you need to remove the back panel in the freezer) and ring the contacts. The resistance of a working heating element is usually from 200 to 400 Ohms, depending on the power of the model.
How to get to the heating element in Pozis?
To access the heating element, you need to remove all shelves from the freezer, remove the plastic back panel (attached to screws and latches) and carefully bend the thermal insulation. Be careful with plastic fasteners, they become brittle in the cold.
The second suspect is defrost sensor. It should open the heating element circuit when the evaporator temperature rises to +10...+15 degrees. If the sensor is “stuck” in the open state, the heating element will never turn on. If the sensor is faulty and does not open the circuit, the heating element will heat constantly, which can lead to food spoilage when the compressor is running, although in the context of our problem (no cold), the first option is more important.
| Component | Function | Symptom of breakdown | Check method |
|---|---|---|---|
| Evaporator heating element | Heating and melting of ice | Ice does not melt, the fan is standing | Continuity multimeter |
| Defrost sensor | Temperature control of the heating element | The heating element does not turn on or constantly heats | Resistance measurement at t° |
| Defrost timer | Switching modes | The refrigerator does not enter defrost mode | Forced start |
Problems with the compressor and refrigerant
Although the lack of cold only in the upper chamber more often indicates problems with the air, it cannot be completely exclude and freon leak. In double-compartment refrigerators with one compressor, the refrigerant first passes through the freezer, cooling it, and only then enters the refrigeration circuit. Therefore, when there is a gas leak, it is the upper compartment that “gets warm” first.
If you notice that the compressor is working almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, and the condenser (the grill at the back or the side walls) is only partially warm or cold - this is a sure sign of a lack of refrigerant. Leak can occur in the foamed part of the case or in the places where the tubes are soldered. Finding a leak on your own without special equipment (leak detector) is almost impossible.
Another rare but possible reason is clogged capillary tube. Oil breakdown products or moisture, which has turned into an ice plug inside a narrow tube, block the freon flow. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor runs constantly, there is no cold, but the pressure in the system may be normal or elevated. To fix it, you will need to call a technician with a vacuum pump and a supply of freon.
⚠️ Attention: Filling the refrigerator with freon requires professional equipment. Attempts to “pump up” gas from lighter cans will lead to final breakdown of the compressor.
Failures in the operation of the electronic control module
Modern models Pozis, especially the Smart series or with a display, are controlled electronically. If control platform receives incorrect data from sensors or has a defect itself, it may not give a command to turn on the fan or compressor. A common problem is the failure of the temperature sensor in the fridge compartment.
If the sensor “lies” and shows the module that it is already -10 degrees in the chamber (although it is +15), the electronics will rightly decide not to cool the air. As a result, the upper chamber becomes warmer. You can check the sensor by measuring its resistance at different temperatures and comparing the readings with a table for a specific thermistor.
- 🔌 Check the contacts of the wires going to the sensors (oxidation).
- 💡 Pay attention to the indication: flashing lights often indicate an error code.
- 🧩 Reset errors by long-term disconnection from the network.
Sometimes the problem lies in the oxidation of contacts in connectors the wiring running from the door to the body. Constant opening and closing of the door leads to broken wires or broken contact, which causes the fan or door sensor to stop working, which affects the operating mode.
Mechanical damage and seals
It would seem like a banal thing - sealing rubber band on the door of the refrigerator compartment - this may cause the upper chamber to not hold the cold. If the rubber band is worn out, dirty, or the door is warped, warm air from the room constantly flows inside. The cooling system cannot cope with the heat flow, and the temperature rises.
You can check the tightness with a simple test with a sheet of paper. Clamp the sheet with the door around the perimeter. If it pulls out easily without resistance, then there is no seal. Also pay attention to the door hinges: if they are loose, the upper corner of the door may move away, creating a gap for heat to penetrate into the upper part of the chamber.
Mechanical damage can also affect the inside of the chamber. If the plastic box is cracked or dislodged, cold air may blow past the food or to the side without cooling the overall volume. A visual inspection of the insides of the chamber will help identify such defects. air duct inside the camera. If the plastic box is cracked or dislodged, cold air may blow past the food or to the side without cooling the overall volume. A visual inspection of the inside of the camera will help identify such defects.
Algorithm for self-repair and finding a technician
If you decide to act on your own, start with the simplest and safest thing - complete defrosting. This action is free and solves the problem in 30% of cases if it is caused by a temporary failure of the defrost system. If, after 24 hours of defrosting, the refrigerator Pozis stops freezing at the top again after 3-5 days, repairs will be required.
To replace the heating element, sensor or fan, you will need a basic set of tools: screwdrivers (Phillips and flat), a multimeter, perhaps a hair dryer for carefully removing the ice. Remember that all work on the electrical part is carried out only with disconnected from the network the device.
☑️ Action plan for repairs
If you do not have the skills to work with electrical appliances or the diagnostics showed a freon leak, it is better to contact a service center. Independent intervention in a sealed circuit (replacing a filter-drier, soldering tubes) requires a license and special equipment.
Why does the refrigerator work normally after defrosting, and then stops again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the automatic defrosting system. The ice that you removed manually builds up again because the heating element does not turn on at the right time. It is necessary to change the heating element, defrost sensor or timer.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor works in increased mode, trying to cool the volume, which leads to its overheating and increased energy consumption. Products in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate.
How much does it cost to repair the No Frost system in service?
The cost depends on the region and the specific breakdown. Replacing a heating element or fan is usually cheaper than finding a freon leak or replacing a compressor. The exact price will be announced only after diagnostics.
How often do you need to defrost the Pozis No Frost refrigerator?
The No Frost system assumes that there is no need for manual defrosting. However, manufacturers recommend turning off the device once a year on a preventive basis for hygiene and checking the condition of the seals.