The situation when Pozis refrigerator stops turning off is familiar to many owners of household appliances. Instead of the usual rhythmic hum and periodic pauses, the unit begins to work continuously, creating excessive noise and consuming a huge amount of electricity. This is not just an irritating factor, but a direct signal that a serious failure has occurred in the refrigerant circulation system or electronics, requiring immediate intervention.
Constant operation of the motor-compressor leads to its overheating, which can ultimately cause complete combustion of the expensive unit. If you notice that your Pozis refrigerator hums 24 hours a day, and the temperature in the chambers is either too low or, conversely, insufficient for freezing, you cannot ignore the problem. In this article we will analyze in detail the mechanical and electrical causes of the malfunction, as well as methods for eliminating them.
It is worth noting that in some cases, continuous operation can be caused by external factors, such as high room temperature or loose door fit. However, if you have removed all external irritants, and the equipment continues to operate in emergency mode, the problem lies within the circuit or control board. Next, we will look at the main components that most often fail.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why Pozis refrigerator does not turn off is the failure of the thermostat. This mechanical or electronic component is responsible for reading the temperature in the chamber and sending a signal to turn off the compressor when the specified parameters are reached. If the contacts inside the thermostat “stick” in the closed position, the motor will work endlessly.
In modern models with a system No Frost or electronic control, the role of a mechanical regulator is performed by temperature sensors (thermistors). They are resistors whose resistance changes depending on heating or cooling. If the sensor is damaged or the wiring is broken, the control module receives a false signal that the chamber is warm and does not give a command to stop the compressor.
- 🔍 Symptoms: The compressor hums constantly, the temperature in the chamber can be either extremely low (freezing) or normal, but without pauses in operation.
- 🔧 Diagnostics: For a mechanical thermostat, you can temporarily close the contacts directly - if the motor turns off, then the problem is in the regulator.
- ❄️ Electronics: In models with a display, an error code often lights up, indicating a malfunction of the evaporator or air flow sensor.
⚠️ Attention: Before checking the thermostat, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with live electrical contacts is dangerous and can lead to a short circuit of the control board.
Replacing the thermostat is a relatively simple procedure for mechanical models, but requires care. In electronic versions Pozis refrigerator it may be necessary to reflash the module or replace the sensor itself, which is often sealed in a hard-to-reach place on the evaporator.
Refrigerant leak and problems with the compressor
If Pozis refrigerator works without interruption, but does not reach the required temperature or freezes very weakly, there is a high probability of a freon leak. In normal mode, the compressor pumps refrigerant, which, when evaporated, takes away heat. If there is a shortage of gas in the system, the pressure drops, and the motor is forced to work continuously, trying to compensate for the loss of cooling capacity, but never reaching the shutdown point.
A leak can occur anywhere in the circuit: in the evaporator foamed in the housing, in the places where the tubes are soldered, or even in the condenser on the back wall. Often it is impossible to visually determine the location of a leak without special equipment, such as a leak detector or an ultraviolet oil additive. Attempts to simply “add freon” without finding and fixing the hole give only a temporary effect.
The compressor can also be the cause of the problem. If its valves are worn out or the piston group is defective, it loses the ability to create the necessary pressure. The motor hums and vibrates, but does not pump freon with the required efficiency. As a result, Coldikt Pozis cannot go to shutdown mode.
Is it possible to independently find a leak?
It is almost impossible to independently find a microcrack in the foamed part of the case. A soap solution will only help with obvious, major damage to visible pipes, which rarely happens. For accurate diagnosis, you need to call a technician with equipment.
Leakage symptoms are often accompanied by heating of the motor to critical temperatures. If you touch the compressor (carefully!) and it is hot, but the refrigerator hardly cools, this is a sure sign of a lack of refrigerant or a malfunction of the unit itself.
Problems with the seal and chamber tightness
Sometimes the reason for continuous operation lies not in complex electronics or freon, but in a banal depressurization of the chamber. If the rubber door seal is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air from the room constantly enters the chamber. Sensors detect an increase in temperature and force Pozis refrigerator to work without stopping to compensate for the heat influx.
Checking the tightness is the first place to start diagnosing. Often, users themselves damage the seal with sharp objects or do not close the door completely due to overcrowded shelves. It is also worth checking the hinges: if the door is skewed, it will not fit tightly even with good rubber.
| Problem | Symptom | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Dirty seal | Sticky coating, loose fit | Wash with warm water and soap |
| Deformation of rubber | Dents, creases, loss of elasticity | Warm with a hairdryer or replace |
| Door skew | Gap at the top or bottom | Hinge adjustment |
| Foreign object | The door does not close until it clicks | Remove interfering objects products |
You can use a sheet of paper to check the tightness of the fit. Clamp it with the door in different places around the perimeter. If the sheet pulls out too easily or falls out, it means that the seal is broken in that area. In such cases, Pozis refrigerator will work in enhanced mode.
Malfunctions of the control module and start relay
The electronic “brain” of the refrigerator - the control module - can issue erroneous commands. If the elements responsible for switching the compressor are burned out on the board, the relay may “stick” in the on state. In this case, Pozis refrigerator receives a constant voltage to the motor windings, regardless of the temperature sensor readings.
The starting relay, located directly on the compressor, also plays a key role. It is responsible for starting the engine and turning it off when a certain speed is reached. If the relay contacts are welded or the mechanism is stuck, the circuit does not open. This is often accompanied by a characteristic click, after which the motor continues to hum.
Diagnostics of the control module requires special knowledge and tools, such as a multimeter. Visually, traces of burning, swollen capacitors or oxidized tracks may be visible on the board. In models with a display, the module may display chaotic symbols or not respond to buttons.
⚠️ Attention: Replacing the control module often requires setting parameters for a specific refrigerator model. Installing an unsuitable board may result in incorrect operation of all systems, including defrosting and ventilation.
Frequent power surges in the network are the main enemy of electronics Pozis refrigerator. If your home has unstable electricity, it is recommended to use a surge protector or voltage stabilizer to protect expensive components.
☑️ Electrical diagnostics
The influence of quick freezing mode and external factors
Do not forget about the human factor. On the control panel Pozis refrigerator the Super Freeze mode may be accidentally activated. In this mode, the equipment operates continuously for a certain time (usually up to 48 hours) or until manual shutdown in order to quickly freeze a large amount of food.
External conditions also affect the operation of the unit. If the refrigerator is located next to the radiator, in direct sunlight or in a too hot room, heat exchange is disrupted. The condenser does not have time to cool down, and the compressor is forced to work longer to maintain the temperature inside the chambers.
- 🌡️ Temperature in the room: The normal operating range for the refrigerator is from +16°C to +32°C. Higher or lower - there is a risk of failure.
- ☀️ Heating: Do not install equipment closer than 10 cm to the wall and away from heat sources.
- 🍲 Hot foods: Putting hot food causes a sharp jump in temperature and prolonged operation motor.
Check the control panel. If the snowflake indicator or “Super” sign is on, simply turn off this mode. If the refrigerator is kept in an unheated garage in winter, the oil in the compressor may thicken, which will lead to difficult starting and noisy operation.
Self-diagnosis algorithm and procedure
Before calling a technician, you can carry out a number of simple steps that will help localize the problem. This will save time and money, and will also allow you to more accurately describe your symptoms to a specialist. Start by checking the simplest things: how tightly the door is closed, the position of the temperature regulator and the presence of a super-freezing mode.
If simple methods do not help, listen to the operation of the motor. A uniform hum indicates mechanical operation; intermittent or metallic clanging sounds indicate a problem with the compressor or relay. Feel the condenser (grid at the back) - it should be warm evenly. If it is cold or hot in only one place, there may be a leak or blockage.
If you do not have the skills to work with electrical appliances and refrigerants, it is better not to take risks. Interfering with the freon circulation system requires a license and special equipment. Soldering the tubes yourself without evacuation of the system will lead to rapid breakdown of the compressor due to moisture and air.
⚠️ Attention: Freon used in refrigerators can be flammable or toxic under certain conditions. Violation of the tightness of the circuit in an unventilated room is dangerous to health.
Collect information about the model of your Pozis refrigerator (located on the nameplate inside the camera), write down the characteristic sounds and behavior of the indicators. This will help the technician predict the malfunction in advance and take the necessary spare parts with him.
Why does the refrigerator freeze too much and does not turn off?
Most likely, the thermostat or temperature sensor is faulty. They “think” that the chamber is warm and do not allow the compressor to stop, although the temperature is already below normal. The sensor needs to be replaced.
Can a blockage in the capillary tube cause continuous operation?
Yes, if there is a blockage, freon does not circulate normally. The pressure at the outlet of the compressor increases, and at the inlet it decreases. The motor works with overload, trying to push through the plug, but does not produce cold.
How long should the compressor normally work?
In normal mode, the compressor runs for about 15-20 minutes, followed by a pause of 30-40 minutes. The working time ratio is approximately 30-40%. If it works for 50 minutes and stops for 10, this is already a sign of a malfunction.
What to do if the refrigerator does not turn off after defrosting?
If you defrosted the refrigerator and after turning it on it works without stopping, perhaps there is ice left in the system (the capillary is clogged) or the defrost sensor has failed. Let the equipment run for several hours. If the mode does not return to normal, call a specialist.