A sudden increase in temperature in the freezer compartment of the Pozis refrigerator, leading to melting of food or the formation of excessive ice crust, most often indicates a malfunction of the thermostat, a refrigerant leak or problems with the compressor that require immediate diagnosis to prevent spoilage of the food supply.
The reasons why the unit stopped working there can be many types of cold weather: from a banal violation of operating rules to complex technical damage compressor. It is important not to panic, but to conduct an initial diagnosis to understand the scale of the problem. In some cases, repairs can be done independently, but there are situations that require the intervention of a qualified technician with professional equipment.
In this article we will examine in detail the main causes of malfunctions, methods for identifying them and solutions. Understanding how your model works will help you avoid costly repairs or quickly fix a breakdown. If you notice that the equipment is not working correctly, the first thing you should do is check simple things before disassembling complex components.
Primary diagnosis and external factors
Before suspecting a serious breakdown of internal components, it is necessary to exclude external factors that are often ignored by users. The refrigerator may not freeze due to improper installation or violation of operating conditions. For example, if the unit is located too close to the wall or heating devices, heat exchange is disrupted and the system does not have time to remove heat.
Check the tight fit of the door to the body. If the rubber seal is worn out, dirty or deformed, warm air constantly enters the chamber. This causes the compressor to work hard, but the desired temperature cannot be achieved. It is also worth paying attention to how often you open the door and whether you put hot dishes inside.
Sometimes the problem lies in a simple failure of electronics or settings. Try unplugging the device for 15–20 minutes and then turning it on again. This simple step allows you to clear errors in the control unit and restart the cooling cycle. If after this the situation has not changed, it is worth checking the condition of the ventilation grilles.
⚠️ Attention: Never install the refrigerator close to the wall. For normal air circulation, there should be at least 5-7 centimeters of free space behind the back wall.
☑️ Initial inspection of the refrigerator
Malfunctions of the No Frost and defrost system
If your Posis is equipped with a system No Frost, then cooling problems are often associated with a violation of the defrost cycle. In such models, the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel, and the ice on it is not visible to the eye. If the defrost system fails, ice blocks the air channels and the cold stops flowing into the chambers.
The main culprits here may be Defrost heating element, defrost sensor or timer. When the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt, a “fur coat” builds up, and the fan either stops spinning due to ice, or drives warm air. The sensor, in turn, may incorrectly read the temperature, not giving a command to turn on the heater or, conversely, not turning it off in time.
You can diagnose this problem by paying attention to the operation of the fan. If you hear a humming sound, but the cold does not come, or the fan is completely silent when the compressor is running, most likely the channels are clogged with ice. In this case, complete defrosting of the unit is required within 24 hours.
How to understand that the problem is in the defrosting system?
If after complete defrosting (24 hours without turning on) the refrigerator begins to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the situation repeats, then one of the elements of the automatic defrosting system is faulty: heating element, sensor or thermostat.
For models with a drip defrosting system, a different picture is typical. What is important here is the state of yourself evaporator. If it is covered with an uneven layer of ice or, conversely, completely dry when the engine is running, this indicates different types of malfunctions. In the first case, the problem may be a leak, in the second - in the circulation of the refrigerant.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is compressor. If it does not start, hums, clicks, or runs continuously without stopping, cooling is not possible. Often, owners hear a characteristic click, after which the engine tries to start, but immediately stalls. This is a sure sign that the start relay or the compressor itself is faulty.
The start relay is a small unit that provides an impulse to start the engine. Over time, the contacts in it burn out, or the bimetallic plate fails. Replacing a relay is one of the simplest and most inexpensive procedures that you can do yourself if you have minimal skills in working with a tool.
If the compressor hums loudly and constantly, but there is no cold, this may indicate a loss of performance of the piston group. The motor runs, but does not create the necessary pressure for freon circulation. In such cases, it is necessary to replace the compressor, which is a complex and expensive procedure that requires evacuation of the system and charging of refrigerant.
| Symptom of compressor operation | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| Silent, does not respond to switching on | Open circuit, malfunction of thermostat or relay | Check for voltage, ring the thermostat |
| Beeps for 5-10 seconds and clicks (does not start) | Motor jammed or starter broken relay | Replace the starting relay, if repeated, change the compressor |
| Works continuously without turning off | Freon leak or compressor wear | Call a technician to find the leak and refill |
| The motor housing is very hot | Overload or interturn short circuit | Urgent shutdown and electrical diagnostics |
Refrigerant leak and capillary tube clogged
One of the most common reasons Why Position stopped freezing is a leak freon. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes or heat exchanger, the gas gradually evaporates. Without a sufficient amount of freon, heat exchange is impossible.
Leakage can occur due to metal corrosion (especially in models with a steel foaming circuit), mechanical damage during transportation or poor-quality factory soldering. Signs of a leak are weak cold, a hot condenser (grid at the back) or, conversely, its cold state, as well as the absence of characteristic gurgling in the tubes.
Another technical problem is clogged capillary tube. A plug may form in the circulation system from oil or moisture oxidation products. This blocks the movement of freon. The compressor is trying to push the refrigerant, it is working with overload, but there is no circulation. Visually, this often manifests itself as swelling of the rear wall inside the chamber or a lack of cold when the engine is running.
⚠️ Attention: Looking for a freon leak on your own or trying to clean the capillary tube without equipment is dangerous and ineffective. These works require a leak detector, a vacuum pump and soldering skills.
To eliminate these faults, the technician tests the system with nitrogen to find the location of the leak. After eliminating the hole, the circuit is evacuated to remove moisture and air, and then refilled with new freon. This is a complex process that cannot be reproduced at home.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and electronics
In older models Position mechanical is responsible for maintaining the temperature thermostat. This is a device with a capillary tube that senses the temperature in the chamber. If the thermostat fails, it may not send a signal to turn on the compressor, even if it is warm in the refrigerator, or, conversely, may not turn it off.
In modern models with electronic control, the role of the thermostat is performed by temperature sensors and the module management. If the sensor “lies” and shows that it is already -18°C in the chamber, although it is +5°C, the compressor simply will not start. Replacing the sensor is a simple procedure, but requires accurate diagnostics, since there may be several sensors in the system.
It is also worth mentioning the control module. Power surges in the network can damage the electronic board. In this case, the refrigerator may behave chaotically: turn on spontaneously, blink indicators, or completely ignore user commands. Repairing a board requires skills in working with a soldering iron and circuitry.
Self defrosting as a diagnostic method
Before calling a technician or buying spare parts, experts recommend carrying out a complete defrosting procedure. This is the easiest and free way to exclude “snow coat” as the reason for the lack of cold. This is especially true for systems No Frostwhere ice can be hidden from view.
To do this, you need to completely empty the refrigerator of food, unplug it and leave it with the doors open for at least 24 hours. It is better to place the unit in a warm room. During this time, all the ice, even in hard-to-reach places of the evaporator, will have time to melt and evaporate.
If after turning on the refrigerator began to freeze like new, but after a week or two the problem returned, it means that one of the elements of the defrosting system (heating element, sensor, timer) is faulty. If, even after defrosting, the cold does not appear, the problem lies deeper - in a freon leak or a compressor breakdown.
When it is necessary to call a technician
Despite desire to save money, there are situations when independent repairs can lead to permanent equipment failure. If you have checked the simple reasons, defrosted it, but Pozis it still does not freeze, professional intervention is most likely required. Especially if you hear strange sounds or see oil under the unit.
A technician is needed for work related to a sealed circuit: finding leaks, soldering pipes, replacing the compressor, refilling with freon. These operations require licensed equipment and specialized knowledge. Unprofessional soldering can lead to a fire or explosion, and improper refueling can cause the new compressor to burn out.
Also, the help of a specialist is needed when diagnosing electronics. If you are not confident in your abilities when working with a multimeter and electrical circuits, it is better not to take risks. An erroneous replacement of parts can cost more than calling a technician the first time.
Is it possible to restore a Pozis refrigerator if it has been left idle for a long time?
If the refrigerator has been left unplugged for more than 6 months, the oil in the compressor could thicken or drain into the circuit. Before turning it on, you need to keep it in a warm room for a day. If, after switching on, it does not start or hums, you may need to “wedge” the compressor by applying increased voltage (only by a master) or replace it.
Why is there ice in the freezer, but warm in the refrigerator?
In No Frost systems, this is a classic sign of air supply channels clogged with ice or a broken fan. In drip systems, this is a sign of partial loss of freon or a malfunction of the thermostat, which “does not see” the heat in the main chamber and does not turn off the compressor, freezing the freezer.
How long should the Pozis refrigerator work after being turned on?
After complete defrosting or the first turn on, the refrigerator requires from 2 to 12 hours to reach operating temperature. During this time, the compressor can operate without interruption. If after 12 hours the cold has not appeared, then there is a malfunction.
Is it dangerous to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze well?
You can only use a unit that does not hold the temperature for a short time. Long-term operation in this mode is dangerous for the products (risk of poisoning) and for the compressor itself, which works to wear out, trying to compensate for heat leakage or freon shortage.