Situation when the refrigerator is working, the light is on, the hum of the engine is heard, but the food in the freezer begins to melt, is one of the most stressful for any homeowner. This is not just a household inconvenience, but a direct threat of spoilage to significant food supplies. Understanding that the unit is plugged in and making sounds often misleads users into thinking that the problem is not serious, but the lack of cold in one of the compartments indicates a disruption in the refrigerant circulation cycle.
The first thing to do when you discover a malfunction is to assess the scale of the disaster. If the food in the freezer has already defrosted, it should be urgently moved to another place or consumed, if possible. Double-chamber refrigerators are designed so that the cold is generated in one place and distributed over volumes, so a breakdown of the distribution system or a gas leak leads to a local lack of cooling. Do not panic, as in many cases the problem can be diagnosed independently before calling a technician.
It is important to understand that modern models, such as Indesit, Bosch or LGhave a complex electronic control system that can block the operation of the compressor when detected errors. However, if you hear that the engine is humming, but there is no cold, it means that the mechanical part or the circulation system is not working correctly. In this article, we will analyze in detail the main reasons why The freezer does not freezeand determine the algorithm of actions to restore the functionality of the equipment.
Diagnostics: how to understand what happened
Before disassembling the unit, it is necessary to carry out primary diagnostics. Users often confuse the lack of cold with insufficient operating power or improper loading of the chambers. If the refrigerator is onbut the temperature in the freezer compartment is higher than normal, pay attention to the indicators on the control panel. Many modern models are equipped with a self-diagnosis system that displays error codes on the display or flashes temperature indicators.
Listen to the operation of the compressor. If it runs non-stop without turning off to rest, this is a sure sign that the system is trying to gain temperature, but cannot due to a freon leak or a (clogged) capillary tube. In the case when the motor turns on, makes several beeps and turns off with a click, the problem may lie in the start relay or the compressor itself. Quiet hum without characteristic clicks often indicates the operation of the fan or simply air circulation, but not the operation of the refrigeration circuit.
Visual inspection can also provide important clues. Check to see if there is a frozen coat or ice in a certain place, which may indicate a problem with the system No Frost. If the evaporator is completely frozen over, but the chamber is warm, it means that cold is not entering the chamber volume. It is also worth checking the rubber seals: if they are damaged or do not fit tightly, warm air will constantly flow inside, and the equipment will not cope with cooling.
Problems with the No Frost defrosting system
In refrigerators with the system No Frost the most common reason for the lack of cold when the compressor is running is a malfunction of the system defrost. Ice that forms on the evaporator during operation must be melted periodically. If this process is disrupted, the ice builds up and blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the freezer and refrigerator compartments. As a result, the compressor works, the fan hums, but there is no airflow.
The main elements of the defrost system are the heating element (heating element), defrost sensor (thermostat) and timer (or electronic control module). If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt and blocks the operation of the system. If the sensor is faulty, it does not give a command to turn on the heater or, conversely, does not turn it off in time. In models Samsung and LG the evaporator heater often fails, which requires its replacement.
How to check the defrost heating element?
To check the heating element, you need a multimeter. You need to get to the evaporator (usually behind the back wall of the freezer), disconnect the wires from the heating element and ring it. If the resistance is infinitely high, the element has burned out and requires replacement. Be careful not to damage the aluminum evaporator tubes when disassembling.
Fixing this problem often requires completely defrosting the refrigerator for 10-12 hours. If after switching on the equipment worked normally, but a week later the situation repeated itself, it means that one of the components of the defrosting system is faulty and requires replacement. Ignoring this problem can lead to overheating of the compressor, as it will work for wear, trying to cool the volume through the ice barrier.
Refrigerant leakage: symptoms and consequences
One of the most serious reasons why The refrigerator does not freezeis a freon leak. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if the seal is broken, the gas gradually escapes. The symptoms of a leak usually develop gradually: first, the refrigerator begins to freeze worse, the compressor begins to work longer, and then the cold disappears completely. Unlike problems with electronics, when there is a leak, the compressor often works continuously, trying to compensate for the lack of pressure.
A leak can occur in various places: in the foamed part of the case (most likely for repairs), in the door heating circuit, or in places where pipes are soldered. If you notice that the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator is only partially cold or warm when normally it should be uniformly hot, this is a strong sign of a freon deficiency. Also, oily stains may be visible on the tubes - freon comes out along with the compressor oil.
⚠️ Attention: Independent refilling of the refrigerator with freon is impossible without special equipment (vacuum pump, pressure gauge station, scales). In addition, before refueling, it is necessary to find and repair the leak, otherwise gas will escape again. Attempts to “just add gas” without evacuation of the system will lead to mixing of the refrigerant with air and moisture, which will completely damage the compressor.
Repairing a leak requires calling a technician. The specialist will perform a nitrogen test to find the location of the damage, replace the filter drier and charge the system with the exact amount of refrigerant specified in the technical documentation of the model. If the leak occurs in the foamed part (inside the cabinet walls), repair may not be economically feasible, since it requires opening the thermal insulation or installing an external evaporator (“crying” evaporator inside the chamber).
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator, creating pressure for circulation refrigerant. If you hear the motor trying to start, making a dull click and then going silent, there is most likely a problem with the start relay or the windings of the compressor itself. The start relay is a small plastic element that fits onto the contacts of the compressor. Over time, its contacts burn or stick, and it stops providing an impulse to start the engine.
Replacing the start relay is one of the simplest and cheapest repair procedures that you can do yourself if you have basic skills. The relay is selected according to the compressor model (for example, Danfoss, Secop, Atlant). If, after replacing the relay, the situation does not change, or the compressor hums but does not start, there may be an interturn short circuit in the windings or a mechanical wedge in the piston group. In this case, the entire compressor needs to be replaced.
☑️ Checking the compressor
It is important to note that if the compressor runs “idle” (hums, but does not pump), this may mean a loss of its performance. The valve inside may have worn out and is not producing the required pressure drop. In this case, even with a full charge of freon, The freezer will not work. Diagnostics of compressor performance is carried out by a technician using a pressure gauge at the workplace.
Clogged capillary tube
The capillary tube is a thin copper pipe that serves as a choke in the refrigeration circuit, creating a pressure difference between high and low pressure. Over time, microscopic contaminants, oil oxidation products or moisture can form inside the system, which turns into an ice plug. Clogged capillary tubes prevents the normal circulation of freon: the compressor tries to push the gas, the outlet pressure increases, and the refrigerant does not enter the evaporator or does not flow in sufficient quantities.
Symptoms of a blockage are similar to a leak: the compressor runs for a long time and overheats, the condenser may be hot, but the freezer does not cool. The difference is that when there is a blockage, you can often hear gurgling sounds or the noise of flowing liquid in the area of the capillary tube. Also, the filter drier located in front of the capillary may be cold or covered with frost, which is not typical for its normal operation.
Removing the blockage requires professional intervention. The technician must “push” the system with nitrogen under high pressure or replace the capillary tube and filter drier. It is almost impossible to clean the capillary on your own due to its small diameter and length. Attempts to warm the tube with a hairdryer can help temporarily if the plug is icy, but will not solve the problem of contamination of the system.
Failures in the electronic control module
In modern refrigerators, especially models with a system Full No Frost and display, the electronic control module is responsible for the distribution of cold and the operation of the compressor. If the control board is “buggy”, it may not send a signal to turn on the compressor or fan, even if the temperature sensors indicate overheating. There may also be failures in reading readings from temperature sensors.
If the temperature sensor (thermistor) gives incorrect readings (for example, it “thinks” that the chamber is -30°C, although it is +5°C), the control module will not turn on the cooling. Replacing the sensor is a simple procedure, but requires testing with a multimeter at different temperatures. The electronic module may fail due to power surges or moisture.
Electronics diagnostics require special knowledge and equipment. If you do not have experience working with electronic circuits, it is better to entrust this stage to specialists. They will be able to check the output signals from the board and determine whether the problem lies in the board itself, sensors or actuators.
Comparative table of faults
For ease of diagnosis, we have compiled a table that will help compare symptoms with possible causes. This will allow you to more accurately describe the problem to the technician or make a decision about repairing yourself.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair | Required equipment |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor buzzes, but does not start (clicks) | Faulty start relay or compressor | Low / High | Multimeter, new relay |
| The freezer is not freezing, the compressor is working constantly | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High | Pressure gauge, vacuum sealer, freon |
| A “coat” of ice has grown, no cold | Faulty defrost system (heating element, sensor) | Average | Multimeter, screwdrivers |
| The refrigerator turns on and off in a minute | Failure of the control module or sensor | Medium / High | Multimeter, tester |
| The fan is humming, but there is no cold | Channel freezing or fan failure | Medium | Disassembly tool |
Prevention and proper maintenance
To avoid situations where the refrigerator stops freezingit is necessary to regularly carry out preventive maintenance. First of all, keep the condenser grill at the back of the refrigerator clean. Dust and pet hair act as a heat insulator, causing the compressor to work overload, shortening its life. Cleaning should be done with a vacuum cleaner or a soft brush once every 6-12 months.
It is also important to check the integrity of the rubber seals. Wipe them with a soft cloth and soapy water to remove any grease or dirt that could compromise the seal. If the elastic has come off or is deformed, try straightening it with a hairdryer or replace it with a new one. A loose door fit is one of the main reasons for the formation of excess ice and breakdown of the No Frost system.
⚠️ Attention: Do not place the refrigerator close to the wall. For normal operation, the cooling system requires a gap of at least 5-10 cm for free air circulation around the condenser. Violation of this rule leads to overheating and increased energy consumption.
Do not overload the freezer with food. Cold air should circulate freely between the products. If you load a lot of warm food at the same time, it puts extreme stress on the compressor. Allow the food to cool to room temperature before putting it in the freezer.
When you need to call a specialist
Despite the possibility of independent diagnostics, there are a number of cases when calling a specialist is inevitable. If you have identified a freon leak, professional sealing and refilling is required. If the problem lies in the "foamed" part of the housing, repairs can be difficult and expensive. A technician is also necessary if the compressor needs to be replaced, since this process involves working with an open flame (soldering) and vacuuming the system.
You should not try to repair electronics yourself if you do not have experience working with a soldering iron and circuits. Improper replacement of control board components can lead to a short circuit and failure of other components of the refrigerator. Remember that qualified repairs are often cheaper than buying a new refrigerator or disposing of spoiled food.
In conclusion, if your The refrigerator works, but the freezer does not, do not rush to conclusions. Carry out initial diagnostics, check the defrost system and listen to the operation of the compressor. In many cases, the problem is solved by replacing inexpensive parts or simply defrosting. However, if you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals in order to preserve your equipment and food.
How much does repair cost?
The cost of repair varies greatly. Replacing a heating element or sensor is inexpensive. Refilling with freon and finding leaks is in the middle price segment. Replacing a compressor is the most expensive type of repair. The exact price can only be found out after on-site diagnostics.
Why does the refrigerator work, but does not freeze after defrosting?
If after defrosting the refrigerator turned on, but after a while it stopped freezing again, this indicates a malfunction of one of the components of the defrosting system (heating element, timer, sensor). Ice has accumulated again and blocked air circulation.
Is it possible to use the refrigerator if the freezer is not freezing?
For a short time - yes, if the refrigerator compartment is working. However, the compressor will run continuously, which will lead to overheating and increased energy consumption. Long-term operation in this mode is not recommended.
How often do you need to defrost a No Frost refrigerator?
The No Frost system involves automatic defrosting of the evaporator. However, it is recommended to completely defrost the refrigerator itself once every 6-12 months for hygiene and check the operation of the system.
What to do if a block of ice has formed in the freezer?
You cannot try to break off the ice with a knife or sharp objects - there is a high risk of breaking through the evaporator and releasing freon. It is necessary to completely defrost the refrigerator (turn it off for 10-12 hours with the doors open).
Why is the back wall of the freezer hot?
In some models this is normal (the heating circuit around the door perimeter works to prevent condensation). However, if the wall is hot, this may indicate a blockage in the system or problems with refrigerant circulation.