The situation when the refrigerator hums without interruption is familiar to many owners of household appliances. At first this seems like a small thing, but the constant hum and increased electricity bills quickly make you think about the seriousness of the problem. Continuous operation The compressor is the first sign that the cooling system cannot reach the set temperature parameters.
Normally, the unit should turn on and off cyclically, maintaining cold inside the chambers. If the motor runs around the clock, this means that cooling capacity the tightness of the circuit has fallen or is broken. Ignoring this signal can lead to complete failure of the unit and costly repairs.
In this article we will look at the main reasons why The refrigerator does not turn offand determine what steps need to be taken right now. It is important to understand that in some cases the problem can be solved on your own, but often the intervention of a technician is required.
Primary diagnosis and external factors
Before you panic and call a technician, you should rule out trivial causes. Often users themselves create conditions under which compressor they are forced to work in increased mode. Check to see if you have just loaded hot food into the chamber. The temperature sensor detects an increase in temperature and causes the motor to wear out until the heat is removed.
The second important point is the location of the equipment. If the refrigerator is standing close to the wall or next to the radiator, heat exchange is impaired. The radiator on the rear wall does not have time to cool down, and the system does not receive a signal to stop. It is also worth checking the tightness of the seal rubber seal to the case.
- 🔍 Check whether the back wall is leaning against furniture or a wall - a gap of at least 5-7 cm is required.
- 🌡️ Make sure that the equipment is not stands in direct sunlight or near the stove.
- 🚪 Inspect the door: if it is not completely closed, the cold will escape, causing the motor to hum constantly.
⚠️ Attention: If you notice that the seal is dirty or deformed, do not try to stretch it by force. Wipe it with warm water and a mild detergent - sometimes this restores elasticity.
Particular attention should be paid to the operating mode. If you have enabled the function Super Freeze (Super Freeze) or Quick Cool, the refrigerator will work without stopping until you forcefully disable this mode. This is a normal situation, not a breakdown.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and sensors
One of the most common reasons for uninterrupted operation is failure thermostat. This unit is responsible for controlling the temperature inside the chamber. If its contacts are “stuck” in the “on” position or the sensor transmits incorrect readings to the control module, the compressor will not receive a command to stop.
In modern models with a system No Frost and electronic control, air sensors are responsible for this process. Their breakdown is often accompanied by an erroneous code on the display, but not always. Sometimes the sensor simply “lies”, reporting that it is warm in the chamber, although in fact there is already sub-zero temperature.
How to check the thermostat yourself?
For a mechanical test, you can carefully remove the thermostat (after turning off the power) and close its contacts. If the compressor starts, then the problem is in the sensor. However, this method requires electrical skills and does not guarantee diagnostic accuracy in complex cases.
Replacing a thermostat is not the most difficult procedure, but it requires precision. In some models, access to it is difficult, and you have to disassemble a significant part of the internal lining. If you do not have experience, it is better to entrust this work to a specialist so as not to damage fragile plastic or wiring.
- 🛠️ Sign of breakdown: the refrigerator freezes too much, food freezes even at the minimum settings.
- 🔌 Symptom: the motor hums, but there is no shutdown click even after prolonged operation.
- 💡 Indication: the emergency temperature icon may light on the display, although it is cold inside.
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to adjust the mechanical thermostat with a screwdriver if you are not sure of your actions. By knocking down the calibration, you can achieve the opposite effect - the refrigerator will stop reaching the desired temperature.
Refrigerant leakage and problems with freon
If everything is in order with the electrics and the seal is intact, there is a high probability freon leaks. The refrigerant circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microscopic fistula has formed somewhere, the gas gradually evaporates. As a result, the pressure in the system is not enough for effective cooling, and the sensors require the compressor to work continuously.
Often a leak occurs in the foamed part of the housing or in the soldering areas of the evaporator tubes. It is difficult to notice this visually, since freon is colorless and odorless. An indirect sign may be swelling of the side walls of the refrigerator or the appearance of rust in certain places.
Leak diagnostics are carried out using special equipment - a leak detector or the nitrogen pressure test method. The technician opens the system, finds the location of the damage, solders it and fills it refrigerant again. It is impossible to perform this operation independently without a vacuum pump and a pressure gauge station.
It is important to understand that working on “hungry” freon is dangerous for compressor. It overheats because the oil circulating with the gas does not return to the crankcase in the required volume. This can lead to a wedge of the motor.
Clogged capillary tube
Another technical reason why the refrigerator does not stop working is clogged capillary tube. This is a thin element through which freon enters the evaporator. Over time, oxidation products or ice plugs may form in the system, blocking the flow of refrigerant.
When clogged, the pressure at the inlet of the compressor drops, and at the outlet it increases. The engine is trying to push gas, working at the limit, but the cold in the chamber does not increase. The characteristic sound in this case may be gurgling or its complete absence, although vibration is felt.
Removing the blockage requires purging the system with nitrogen under high pressure and replacing the filter-drier. If you simply try to push the plug, you can damage other components. Therefore, if you suspect a blockage, calling a technician is required.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| Motor hot, no cold | Leakage freon | Searching for leaks, soldering, refilling |
| Intermittent humming, clicking | Clogged capillary | Purge the system, replace the filter |
| The refrigerator freezes a lot | The thermostat is faulty | Replacing the temperature sensor |
| Ice on the back wall | Problems with defrosting | Checking the heating element and timer |
Failure in the defrost system (for No Frost)
In models with a system No Frost continuous operation of the compressor is often associated with a violation of the defrost cycle. If the defrost heating element, timer or defrost sensor fails, the evaporator becomes covered with ice. The ice coat blocks the circulation of cold air, and the sensor in the chamber does not detect a decrease in temperature.
As a result, the motor works constantly, trying to cool the volume, but the cold simply does not reach the food. Outwardly, this may manifest itself in the fact that it is warm in the refrigerator compartment, but in the freezer, on the contrary, it is too cold or there is a lot of snow.
☑️ Diagnostics of the defrost system
For diagnostics, you need to defrost the refrigerator completely (at least 24 hours with the doors open). If after defrosting the equipment started working normally and began to turn off, then the problem is definitely in the defrosting system components. If the situation repeats itself after a couple of days, the burnt element needs to be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: Do not use a hairdryer or hot water to speed up the defrosting of the evaporator inside the case. A sharp temperature change can damage the plastic and tubes, and water that gets on the electrical contacts will cause a short circuit.
Wear of the compressor and start relay
The most unpleasant scenario is wear of the compressoritself. Over time, the mechanical part of the motor wears out, the valves lose their tightness, and it ceases to create the necessary pressure. The compressor works, hums, but does not pump freon effectively. Trying to compensate for low performance, it does not turn off.
A faulty start relay may also be the cause. If its contacts are burnt, the motor may not start the first time or work intermittently, which is perceived by the system as insufficient cooling. In some cases, the relay simply does not open the circuit, leaving the winding energized.
You can diagnose compressor wear by sound and temperature. If it runs very loudly, with a metallic clanging sound, or if its body gets hot to temperatures that are dangerous to touch, the motor most likely needs to be replaced. This is an expensive repair, which is often comparable to buying new equipment if the refrigerator is more than 10 years old.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
How long can the refrigerator work without stopping after turning on?
When turned on for the first time or after complete defrosting, the refrigerator can work without interruption from 3 to 12 hours until it reaches the set temperature. If the mode does not stop for more than 24 hours, this is a malfunction.
Can summer heat make the refrigerator work constantly?
Yes, if the room is very hot (above +30°C), heat exchange is difficult. The compressor will run longer than usual, but shutdown cycles should still be present. If they are not there, check the ventilation around the equipment.
Is it dangerous to leave a running refrigerator in this mode?
Yes, it is dangerous. Constant operation leads to overheating of the compressor windings, melting of the insulation and possible fire. In addition, this significantly reduces the life of the motor.
Why does an old refrigerator work more often than a new one?
Over time, the seal loses its elasticity, and the thermal insulation of the body deteriorates. The compressor has to turn on more often and work longer to compensate for the loss of cold.
What to do if the technician says that repairs are unprofitable?
If the cost of spare parts and labor exceeds 50% of the price of a new similar refrigerator, or if the age of the equipment exceeds 10 years, it is wiser to consider purchasing a new model. Modern refrigerators are much more energy efficient than old ones.