Samsung refrigerator works, but does not freeze: reasons and what to do

Have you noticed that the refrigerator Samsung is humming as usual, the light inside is on, but the freezer has stopped freeze food? Or has the temperature in the main compartment risen to room temperature, although the motor does not turn off? This problem is typical for models Samsung RL/RF/RB/RH and is often associated with breakdowns in the cooling system. Do not rush to call a technician —in 60% of cases, the cause can be eliminated yourself, saving on diagnostics.

In this article we will sort it out 7 main reasonswhy the refrigerator works but does not freeze, and we will also give step-by-step instructions for checking each unit. You will learn how to distinguish a compressor breakdown from a clogged capillary tube, when the thermostat is to blame, and when it is a freon leak. We will pay special attention to models with the No Frost system —they have their own “weak points.”

If your refrigerator Samsung was produced before 2018, there is a high probability of wear of the seals or oxidation of the contacts in the start relay. In new models (2019–2026), failures of electronic boards or sensors are more common. Next you will find a checklist for quick diagnostics —it will help narrow down the range of possible faults before a visit from a technician.

1. Capillary tube clogged: how to check without tools

The capillary tube is a thin copper channel through which freon enters the evaporator. It's clogged is the most common reason why a refrigerator Samsung works, but does not freeze. Signs:

• 🔊 The compressor works without stopping or with rare pauses.
• ❄️ The freezer cools slightly, but does not freeze.
• 🌡️ Temperature in the main compartment above +10°C.
• 💧 Condensation on the back wall (in models without No Frost).

How to diagnose a blockage yourself:

1. Unplug the refrigerator for 1-2 hours.
2. Turn it on and immediately put your hand on the condenser (grid on the back wall). Normally, it should heat up in 10-15 minutes. If the condenser remains cold This is a sign of a blockage.
3. Check the temperature of the capillary tube (the thin copper tube coming from the compressor). If there is a blockage, it will be evenly warm along the entire length, and not cold at the evaporator.

What to do:

• 🔧 If the blockage is confirmed, you will need blowing the system freon under pressure. This is a job for a master - it is impossible to do it yourself without equipment.
• 🛠️ Temporary solution: turn off the refrigerator for 12-24 hours so that the oil in the compressor spreads. Sometimes this helps to “push” the plug.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to clean the capillary tube mechanically (with wire, air). This will damage the internal coating and aggravate the problem.

2. Freon leak: how to recognize and what to do

Freon is a refrigerant that circulates through the system and provides cooling. In case of leakage its quantity decreases and the refrigerator loses its ability to freeze. Reasons for leakage:

• 🛠️ Mechanical damage to tubes (for example, when moving a refrigerator).
• 🔥 Corrosion of aluminum parts (typical for models older than 7 years).
• 💥 Microcracks in soldering areas (due to vibration of the compressor).

Signs of a freon leak:

• 🔊 The compressor runs non-stop, but there is no cold.
• 🧊 There is no frost on the evaporator (rear wall of the freezer).
• 💨 The condenser (grid at the back) is barely warm.
• 🛢️ There may be oily stains (a mixture of freon and oil) on the floor under the refrigerator.

How to check:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and defrost it for 12 hours.
2. Turn on and watch the capacitor. If it does not heat up at all there is no freon or there is critically little of it.
3. Shine a flashlight at the places where the tubes are soldered. Look for oil drips or rust.

The solution:

• 🔧 Only a master can find the location of the leak (using a leak detector) and charge the system with freon. Average repair cost: 3,500–7,000 ₽.
• 🛡️ If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, sometimes it is cheaper to buy a new one - leaks often recur.

What happens if you ignore a freon leak?

Long-term operation of the compressor without freon leads to its overheating and failure. In 80% of cases, this requires replacing the compressor (the cost is up to 50% of the price of a new refrigerator). In addition, oil without freon loses its lubricating properties, which accelerates wear of parts.

3. Compressor failure: symptoms and tests

The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it does not create the required pressure, freon does not circulate and the freezer stops working. Signs of a compressor malfunction:

• 🔊 The compressor hums, but does not start (relay clicks are heard).
• 🌡️ Temperature in both compartments are increased.
• 💥 The refrigerator turns off 1-2 minutes after starting.
• 🔥 The compressor housing is excessively hot (more than +80°C).

How to check the compressor:

1. Test the starting relay: turn off the refrigerator, remove the relay (box on the compressor) and shake it. If you hear a knock, the relay is faulty.
2. Checking the windings with a multimeter:

   Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode (Ω).
   Turn off the refrigerator, remove the terminals from the compressor.
   Measure the resistance between:
   - Left and right contacts (working winding) → 15–40 Ω.
   - Left and top contacts (starting winding) winding) → 20–50 Ω.
   - Right and upper contacts (sum of windings) → the sum of the two previous values.
   If the readings differ by more than 20% or there is a break (∞) - the compressor is faulty.

What do:

• 🔧 If it is faulty relay (cost 800–1,500 ₽), you can replace it yourself.
• 🛠️ If it burns out compressor, replacement will be required (from 6,000 ₽) + refilling with freon. For refrigerators older than 10 years, this is often unprofitable.

⚠️ Attention: Do not turn on a refrigerator with a faulty compressor for more than 5 minutes - this may lead to a short circuit or fire of the start relay.

Listen to the operation (hum, clicks, extraneous sounds)|Check the temperature of the case (should not burn)|Measure the resistance of the windings with a multimeter|Inspect the starting relay for melting|Ring the thermal fuse (if any)

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4. Malfunction of the thermostat or temperature sensor

The thermostat (or electronic sensor in modern models) is responsible for turning the compressor on/off. If it is broken, the refrigerator can:

• 🧊 Not turn on the cooling at all.
• 🔄 Work without stopping (the compressor does not turn off).
• 🌡️ Maintain the wrong temperature (for example, +15°C instead of +5°C).

How to check the thermostat:

1. Find the thermostat - in mechanical models it is located inside the chamber (a plastic box with an adjustment knob). In No Frost the sensors are hidden behind the panel.
2. Remove the terminals and test the contacts with a multimeter in resistance mode. At room temperature, the resistance should be 0 Ω (closed).
3. Place the thermostat in ice water - the resistance should become ∞ (open).

Frequent problems with sensors in No Frost:

• 📉 The evaporator sensor is covered with ice and does not transmit a signal.
• 🔌 The contacts on the control board have oxidized.
• 💻 Firmware failure (relevant for models with a display, for example, Samsung RB37J5240SS).

Solution:

• 🔧 Replacing the thermostat (cost 1,200–2,500 ₽) or sensor (800–1,500 ₽).
• 🛠️ Cleaning the board contacts with alcohol (if the problem is oxidation).
• 🔄 Reset settings to factory settings (for electronic models: press Power Cool + Fridge for 5 seconds).

5. Problems with the No Frost system: why the upper chamber does not freeze

Refrigerators Samsung No Frost have additional components: a fan, a defrost heater and a timer. If the freezer does not work, and the refrigerator compartment cools poorly, the culprits are:

• 🌀 Fan - if it is broken, the cold does not enter the main compartment.
• 🔥 Defrost heater - if the evaporator is broken freezes with ice.
• ⏱️ Defrost timer —if jammed, the system does not switch to cooling mode.

How to diagnose:

1. Open freezer and listen - if you can’t hear the fan running, it could jam or burn out.
2. Shine a flashlight on the evaporator (behind the back panel). If it is covered with ice, the defrost heater does not work.
3. Check if the light inside the camera is on. If not, the problem is in the control unit.

Typical errors No Frost:

• 🔴 E1 - malfunction of the temperature sensor.
• 🔴 E3 - problem with defrosting (ice on the evaporator).
• 🔴 E4 —fan failure.

Solution:

• 🔧 Replacing the fan (1,500–2,500 ₽) or heater (2,000–3,000 ₽).
• 🛠️ Defrosting refrigerator for 24 hours (sometimes helps with icing).
• 🔄 Error reset: turn off the refrigerator for 10 minutes, then turn it on.

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to mechanically remove ice from the No Frost evaporator - this will damage the aluminum tubes and cause freon leakage.

6. Clogged filter drier: the hidden reason for poor performance

The filter drier is a small cylinder on the tube between the condenser and the capillary. Its task is to remove moisture from the freon. If the filter is clogged, the circulation of the refrigerant is disrupted and the refrigerator stops freezing. Signs:

• 🔊 The compressor runs without stopping.
• 🌡️ The temperature in the freezer is not lower than -5°C.
• 💧 Condensation on the back wall (in models without No Frost).

How to check:

The filter drier cannot be diagnosed without depressurizing the system. But if you have ruled out all other causes (compressor, freon, thermostat), there is a high probability that it is to blame.

Solution:

• 🔧 Replacing the filter-drier + refilling freon (cost 4,000–6,000 ₽).
• 🛡️ If the refrigerator is more than 10 years old, it is sometimes cheaper to buy a new one - the filter may clog again.

Why does this happen:

• 🕒 Natural wear (filter life is 7–10 years).
• 💦 Moisture entering the system due to incorrect refilling of freon.
• 🔥 Overheating of the compressor (leads to oil decomposition and clogging).

7. Failures in the electronic control unit

In modern refrigerators Samsung (for example, series Family Hub or Bespoke) the electronic board is responsible for cooling. Signs of its malfunction:

• 📱 The display shows incorrect temperature or errors (E5, E6).
• 🔄 The refrigerator spontaneously turns on/off.
• 🎛️ Does not respond to button presses.
• 🌡️ The freezer compartment works, but the refrigerator compartment does not (or vice versa).

Frequent causes of failures:

• 🌩️ Power surges in the network.
• 💦 Short circuit due to condensation on the board.
• 🕒 Natural wear of capacitors (swollen “barrels” on the board).

How check:

1. Turn off the refrigerator for 15 minutes, then turn it on. If the problem disappears, it was a temporary failure.
2. Inspect the circuit board (usually located at the top of the refrigerator).
   • 🔥 Darkened or burnt tracks.
   • 💥 Swollen capacitors.
   • 💧 Traces of oxidation.

Solution:

• 🔧 Replacement of the control board (cost 5,000–12,000 ₽).
• 🛠️ Reflashing (relevant for models with a display, cost 1,500–3,000 ₽).
• 🔌 Installing a voltage stabilizer (if the problem is network surges).

⚠️ Attention: Do not try to repair the board yourself (for example, soldering capacitors Modern ones). boards Samsung have protection against unqualified intervention - after soldering, errors may occur that block the refrigerator.

What to do first: checklist for the owner

Before calling a technician, follow these steps:

Turn off the refrigerator for 1-2 hours, then turn it on and listen to the operation of the compressor|Check if the light inside is on (if not, there is an electrical problem)|Inspect the back wall for oil stains (freon leakage)|Make sure that the thermostat is not set to minimum cooling|Ring the socket with a multimeter (should be 220–230 C)

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If after these steps the refrigerator does not work, use the table below to narrow down the range of possible problems:

If you are not sure of the diagnosis, use the refrigerator service menu SamsungTo do this:

1. Press and hold Power Cool + Fridge 5 seconds.
2. In the menu that appears, select Test Mode (buttons +/–).
3. Check the sensor readings. If the temperature in the freezer is above -10°C with the compressor running, there is a problem in the cooling system.

FAQ: Frequently asked questions about Samsung refrigerators that do not freeze

Is it possible to refill the refrigerator with freon yourself?

No. To refill you need a professional tool (vacuum pump, pressure manifold, freon cylinder) and skills. Incorrect refueling will lead to:

• 💥 Damage to the compressor (due to air or moisture).
• 🔥 Fire due to freon leakage (it is flammable when mixed with air).
• 🚫 Loss warranty (if the refrigerator is under warranty).

An exception is if you have experience working with refrigeration equipment and the necessary certificates.

The Samsung refrigerator does not freeze after defrosting. What to do?

Probable reasons:

• 💧 Water got on the electronic board (need to dry for 24 hours).
• ❄️ The ice did not have time to melt in the drainage system (repeat defrosting).
• 🔌 The settings were lost after turning off (set the temperature again).
• 🛠️ During defrosting, the tubes or wires were damaged (a specialist is needed).

Actions: turn off the refrigerator for 12 hours, then turn it on. If the problem remains, check the display for errors.

How much does it cost to repair a Samsung refrigerator if it does not freeze?

The cost depends on the malfunction (prices for Moscow and regions in 2026):

Breakage	Cost (₽)
Replacing the thermostat	1 200–2 500
Replacing the start relay	800–1 500
Eliminating freon leakage + refilling	4 000–7 000
Replacement of the compressor	6 000–12 000
Repair of the control board	3 000–10 000

If the refrigerator is more than 8-10 years old, repairs may be unprofitable. For example, replacing a compressor in a 2014 model will cost 70–80% of the cost of a new refrigerator. Samsung RL-44 A 2014 model will cost 70–80% of the cost of a new refrigerator.

How to extend the life of a Samsung refrigerator?

Follow these recommendations:

• 🧊 Defrost refrigerator every 6 months (even if it has No Frost).
• 🔌 Use voltage stabilizer (especially in rural areas).
• 🌡️ Do not place the refrigerator next to a stove or radiator (maximum temperature around is +30°C).
• 🚪 Check the door seals (if they do not fit, the compressor is working in increased mode).
• 🛠️ Clean the condenser (grid on the back) from dust once a year.

For models with a display (Family Hub), regularly update the firmware via the application Samsung SmartThings.

Can a Samsung refrigerator not freeze due to improper installation?

Yes. Frequent installation errors that lead to poor performance:

• 🪟 The refrigerator is standing uneven (misalignment of more than 2° disrupts the circulation of freon).
• 🔌 The socket is not grounded or has a weak contact (leads to power surges).
• 🌬️ The back wall is tightly adjacent to the wall (you need to leave a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation).
• 🔥 The refrigerator is installed in direct sunlight (compressor overheating).

How to fix: use a level for leveling, check the socket with a multimeter, ensure gaps for air circulation.